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Home > Archive > Pest Control > September 2005 > Bed Bug Products sold in stores???
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Bed Bug Products sold in stores???
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| My apartment building has been infested with Bed Bugs for years but up to
this point I haven't had any problems however in the last week I've killed
at least a dozen.
I went to my local hardware store to see if they had any products that
listed Bed Bugs as one of the pests they kill and with the exception of a
product ?? SLA or SLH ??? non of the major product lines listed Bed Bugs.
and the only powder I was able to find is one for Cockroaches.
I live in a small NYC apartment and would like to try to solve the problem
myself... will any of the store products work on my problem and if so any
recommendations? Will the boric acid powder products for cockroaches work on
Bed Bugs??? Thanks in advance - CES
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| On Tue, 30 Aug 2005 12:38:51 -0400, CES wrote:
> My apartment building has been infested with Bed Bugs for years but up
> to this point I haven't had any problems however in the last week I've
> killed at least a dozen.
>
> I went to my local hardware store to see if they had any products that
> listed Bed Bugs as one of the pests they kill and with the exception of
> a product ?? SLA or SLH ??? non of the major product lines listed Bed
> Bugs. and the only powder I was able to find is one for Cockroaches.
>
> I live in a small NYC apartment and would like to try to solve the
> problem myself... will any of the store products work on my problem and
> if so any recommendations? Will the boric acid powder products for
> cockroaches work on Bed Bugs??? Thanks in advance - CES
Since nobody more knowledgeable than I (which would be nearly everyone
else here) has replied, I will take a shot.
The only consumer product in general sales I've heard recommended for
bedbugs is Raid House and Garden Bug Killer. But the main ingredient,
allethrin, does not last long ("low residual"), so this is unlikely to
solve your problem, since you'll likely have more come in. Plus it smells
a lot and you'll need to air out during/afterward.
To get the good stuff for bedbugs, you end up going to the stores the
professionals use, buying a sprayer, buying stuff in concentrated form,
diluting and mixing.
spraying, in the boxspring, around the preipehry of the room.maybe the
carpet in nthre room, possibly the preiphey of adjoining rooms.
Plus if you have lots of cracks and crevices, you need a
residual dust to apply directly to those, too. I don't think boric acid will
do much, though I could be worng, but I know that's not the dust the pros
use.
If the whole building is infested, isn't the landlord required to call
professionals?
These are not easy to get rid of. I've done several spraying myself, and
I think I got them all but am not yet positive.
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| On Tue, 30 Aug 2005 12:38:51 -0400, CES wrote:
> Will the boric acid powder products for cockroaches work on
> Bed Bugs??? Thanks in advance - CES
I found a page that did recommend that boric acid may be of help.
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| bugs@bugs.com 2005-09-05, 12:21 am |
| Do a search online and see if you can find Suspend SC. If you can find it
and it is legal for you to purchase I would highly recommend getting it and
using it according to the label directions. If you follow the label
directions you will have no problems getting rid of the bedbugs. There are
some tricks that you will need to know, such as where to treat and how to
treat. They are hard to give here not knowing your specific situation. In
most cases you will need to treat all areas around the bed and under the
bed, the bed frame, the inside of the box springs and the
headboard/footboard.
The cracks and crevices in the room and behind the wall plates should be
treated with a residual dust, there are different ones you can use. As Bob
has mentioned Boric Acid is one you can use and he was correct it is not the
one we choose. We will normally use either Drione or Delta Dust. Both are a
good dust and are lethal on bedbugs. Myself I have always used Drione and
use Delta Dust very rarely. You can also find these products online for
purchase. Make sure they can be shipped to you in the state you are located
in before trying to order any of them.
I hope this helps somewhat. Also be aware that not all of the areas
mentioned above may need to be treated, they are just a guideline. Also
there may be other areas inside your home that need treated that I am not
aware of. That is why it is a case by case situation. Bedbugs are tricky, if
you try this and have no success you may want to hire it done. Just some
food for thought.
--
I wish you all the best
Tim Wise
www.onepest.com
www.askourpros.com
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| On Tue, 30 Aug 2005 12:38:51 -0400, CES wrote:
> My apartment building has been infested with Bed Bugs for years but up
> to this point I haven't had any problems however in the last week I've
> killed at least a dozen.
Tim ("bugs") has such great advice - I entirely forgot to mention that the
stuff could be had online.
As a non-professional, I have the following advice:
1) you'll need a sprayer that can make a "coarse spray" without dripping.
I have a chapin premier with the plastic attachment nozzle set to the
'coarse fan' seems to meet that criterium
2) You'll have to practice with your sprayer. Practice with water *first*.
Suspend SC label calls for mixing up a gallon and applying it to cover
1000 sq. ft. I was *very surprised* at how fast the sprayer used up
solution. Throw a quart of water in the sprayer and practice covering 250
sq ft. Trickier than it sounds. Spraying on the wall helps see the
coverage your getting.
3) Read the instructions carefully. For bedbugs, it advises .75 oz to 1.5
oz. of Suspend SC per gallon of water. A gallon is 128 oz. That means
you are diluting this at an approximate rate of between 100:1 and 200:1.
Anything that you dilute 100:1 to use, deserves to be handled with
respect. I wear gloves, goggles and a respirator while handling the
concentrate. (The mask is probably overdoing it.)
I wish I'd come here and asked more questions earlier. The locals gave
some stuf which (eventually, I think) did the job but it was nasty
smelling stuff and took several tries.
Getting inside the boxspring as Tim mentioned is important. The stuff
across the bottom is flimsy and nearly always has holes in it, so the bugs
set up in there. tear it away and give it a spray. off and sr
Oh, if you nap on your sofa, expecially if you carry any of your bedding
there to do it, it may well be infested too. Mine was.
Tim, what about Gentrol? Does Suspend SC last long enough that an IGR
isn't needed or would it still be a good addition?
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| bugs@bugs.com 2005-09-13, 2:38 pm |
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On 6-Sep-2005, "bob" <none@nowhere.com> wrote:
> Tim, what about Gentrol? Does Suspend SC last long enough that an IGR
> isn't needed or would it still be a good addition?
Yes Gentrol would be a good addition for Bedbugs. However the Suspend if
used properly should last 60 days and that would be enough to kill out the
infestation especially if you were to retreat again in a month. I would
suggest to retreat the infested area at least four times on a bi monthly
frequency that way you will be assured to get rid of the infestation for
good. Others may disagree with that but that is okay that is just what I
have ran up against and what has worked best for me. Even with using Gentrol
I still treat four times as described above.
--
I wish you all the best
Tim Wise
www.onepest.com
www.askourpros.com
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| On Mon, 05 Sep 2005 02:53:35 +0000, bug wrote:
> Suspend SC... I would highly recommend getting it and using it according
> to the label directions. If you follow the label
Tim,
I'm getting bit by something in here. I'm not sure what, but on 2
occasions I've found very tiny speckles of blood on the pillow or
mattress, so I suspect my "friends" are back.
I'm planning spraying again. Gonna use Suspend SC.
Planning on spraying matress, in and out of box-spring and entire bedroom
carpet floor as wel as walls and floor of closet (I have a horror of
taking these out with me in my clothing to work or elsewhere) and also
living room sofa and area surrounding it.
Questions:
1) label recommends .03% to .06% for bedbugs - which do you use? I'
leaning toward .03% because a) I often overspray and even with the
practicing expect it might happen and b) easier to get more uniforma
coverage if I don't have to spray so lightly, which the lower
concentration would let me do and c) not even sure they're here, though
I'm *highly* suspicious.
2) Label advises surface treatments at 1 gallon per thousand feet.
Is that what you use? Does that apply everywhere or would the inside of
the boxpring, preiphery of carpet and basboards, sofa, etc get a little
heavier treatment (as in "apply until infested area is moist" as
recommended under "Fleas, Carpet Beetles and Ticks")?
3) Do I need a mask while spraying? I notice the pros don't seem to with
these kinds of preparations.
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| bugs@bugs.com 2005-09-13, 2:38 pm |
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On 9-Sep-2005, "bob" <none@nowhere.com> wrote:
> Questions:
>
> 1) label recommends .03% to .06% for bedbugs - which do you use? I'
> leaning toward .03% because a) I often overspray and even with the
> practicing expect it might happen and b) easier to get more uniforma
> coverage if I don't have to spray so lightly, which the lower
> concentration would let me do and c) not even sure they're here, though
> I'm *highly* suspicious.
..03% will work just fine
>
> 2) Label advises surface treatments at 1 gallon per thousand feet.
> Is that what you use? Does that apply everywhere or would the inside of
> the boxpring, preiphery of carpet and basboards, sofa, etc get a little
> heavier treatment (as in "apply until infested area is moist" as
> recommended under "Fleas, Carpet Beetles and Ticks")?
Always apply as the label says. Use the 1 gallon per 1000 sq feet. You will
find that is actually quite a lot when treated properly. There is no need to
get any areas of the carpet real moist if you do it should be by mistake
only not on purpose. Spray the inside of the boxsprings also treat the bed
frame, headboard and footboard in all the cracks and crevices. Then you may
want to treat behind the baseboards with the Suspend too. There is a chance
that the BB wont be behind there but why leave it to chance? I know people
that will drill the walls when treating for BB I don't go that far and have
always had success with elimination.
> 3) Do I need a mask while spraying? I notice the pros don't seem to with
> these kinds of preparations.
Suspend does not require a respirator when treating like what you are going
to be doing. It is a great product and the Suspended Crystals make it not
effect any breathing problems so you are good there. You may want to read
the label about Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) and see what it says if
it calls for a respirator then use one, but I am pretty certain it does not.
--
I wish you all the best
Tim Wise
www.onepest.com
www.askourpros.com
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| Tim,
Your repsonseivenss is awesome - thanks so much.
Ok to treat thee mattress, and sofa too? Label says it is.
- Bob
bugs@bugs.com wrote:
>
> On 9-Sep-2005, "bob" <none@nowhere.com> wrote:
>
[color=darkred]
> .03% will work just fine
>
> Always apply as the label says. Use the 1 gallon per 1000 sq feet. You will
> find that is actually quite a lot when treated properly. There is no need to
> get any areas of the carpet real moist if you do it should be by mistake
That is G*great* feedback.
>
>
> Suspend does not require a respirator when treating like what you are going
> to be doing. It is a great product and the Suspended Crystals make it not
> effect any breathing problems so you are good there.
>
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| PCOpug 2005-09-13, 2:38 pm |
| Find some old stock of Knox-Out (microcap diazonon) or Empire (Dursban
microcap).
Good old Organic Phosphate , and slow release to boot . Kick em bebugs back
fer couple months .
Trouble with synthetic pyrethrins and pyrethrins (Kenya ?) is little
residual and poor knockdown .
Case in point ;
Flea infested trailer by mined mine in greater nowhere . Old tenants out
,
Freind going in .
He bought his crap and cleaned carpets 3x with uncles industrial cleaniner .
I went in with Suspend . Saw fleas jumping out of the cracks in linoleum
tile . Really wet it down , and mopped up with cotten rags .
They moved in 2weeks later (after more carpet cleaning) . And there were
still fleas .
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| bugs@bugs.com 2005-09-13, 2:38 pm |
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On 9-Sep-2005, <bobn@trc2.bob-n.com> wrote:
> Your repsonseivenss is awesome - thanks so much.
>
> Ok to treat thee mattress, and sofa too? Label says it is.
I would say it is ok to treat the sofa but DO NOT treat the mattress. I
never treat the mattress, the reason, that is where you lay your head to
sleep and you would be breathing that stuff directly and I would not want to
take that chance. I know it may not harm you but I am not willing to take
that chance. So I would say NO do not treat the mattress.
--
I wish you all the best
Tim Wise
www.onepest.com
www.askourpros.com
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| On Sat, 10 Sep 2005 18:12:49 +0000, bug wrote:
> On 9-Sep-2005, <bobn@trc2.bob-n.com> wrote:
>
>
> I would say it is ok to treat the sofa but DO NOT treat the mattress. I
> never treat the mattress, the reason, that is where you lay your head to
> sleep and you would be breathing that stuff directly and I would not
> want to take that chance. I know it may not harm you but I am not
> willing to take that chance. So I would say NO do not treat the
> mattress.
What do you recommend I do to the matress?
Would it make sense to do the sides and bottom of the matress w/ Suspend,
but use something like Sterifab a couple of weekends in a row on the top
side?
This is interesting. The label says:
"
Bedbugs and Lice: Remove linens and wash before reuse. Apply to
mattress, especially tufts, folds and edges until moist. Apply to
interior of frame. Allow to dry beforre remaking bed."
"
You are the second pro who has had cautions about use of a product even if
it says it's OK for matresses. (The other was the local guy talkiing
about permethrin in "Insectrin X", an EC).) The other guy said OK to
treat the edges and buttons (this matress has none) but not the top
surface.
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| bugs@bugs.com 2005-09-13, 2:38 pm |
|
On 10-Sep-2005, "bob" <none@nowhere.com> wrote:
> What do you recommend I do to the matress?
>
> Would it make sense to do the sides and bottom of the matress w/ Suspend,
> but use something like Sterifab a couple of weekends in a row on the top
> side?
I wouldn't have a problem with treating the sides and bottom only if the
mattress was never turned over. If it is turned over then do not treat the
bottom. I do not treat any surfaces where a customer is going to be laying I
dont care what the label says. I err on the side of safety in that case.
If you were to find BB living under the cord around the edge of the mattress
then what I would do is this, get a small spray bottle and use the Suspend
in it and treat under the cords only not the entire mattress. This way you
are getting the product where it is going to be of maximum exposure to the
BB and minimum exposure to you and anyone that may share your bed.
--
I wish you all the best
Tim Wise
www.onepest.com
www.askourpros.com
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| PCOpug 2005-09-13, 2:38 pm |
| Remove linens and wash before re use. (preferrably in a machine using hot
120F water). Apply to matresses, especially tufts, folds and edges until
moist . Apply to the interior of the frame . Allow to dry before making bed.
I would also spray behind bedboards, under drawers, under furniture , and
baseboard cracks.
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| bugs@bugs.com wrote:
>
> On 10-Sep-2005, "bob" <none@nowhere.com> wrote:
(Some real good stuff)
Looks like I'm going to have to do this in pieces.
If I tresat the bedroom floor (not mattress or boxspring) and closet
floor and walls correctly at 7PM, can I sleep in the room
by 11pm?
- Bob
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| In article <DoKdnZ2dnZ0zsg7UnZ2dnT4QuN6dnZ2dRVn-yZ2dnZ0@speakeasy.net>,
bobn@trc2.bob-n.com says...
 bugs@bugs.com wrote:
>
> On 10-Sep-2005, "bob" <none@nowhere.com> wrote:
(Some real good stuff)
Looks like I'm going to have to do this in pieces.
If I tresat the bedroom floor (not mattress or boxspring) and closet
floor and walls correctly at 7PM, can I sleep in the room
by 11pm?
- Bob
It's water based...however long it would be for water to dry would be
your time.
--
Lar
to email....get rid of the BUGS
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