|
Home > Archive > Heating and air conditioning > October 2005 > Tempstar Heat Pump?
You are viewing an archived Text-only version of the thread.
To view this thread in it's original format and/or if you want to reply to
this thread please [click here]
| Author |
Tempstar Heat Pump?
|
|
| shane.rn@gmail.com 2005-10-18, 11:21 am |
| I'm building an addition on to my trailer and am going to upgrade our
Heating/Cooling system. I was thinking of going with a Tempstar 3.0
ton package heat pump from www.wholesaleac.com but would like to know
if there were any do-it-yourself people out there who've tried this.
Any pointers?
(Thanks HVAC Gods, but I've read your usual BS in the many other
threads on here and you provide little encouragement to people who
threaten your "expertise". I already know that you recommend getting
one of your people to do it for me and that its virtually impossible to
figure out without joining your club. Its not rocket science, it can't
be as hard as you wish people to believe.)
Thanks,
Shane
| |
| ..p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com 2005-10-18, 12:21 pm |
| On 18 Oct 2005 07:10:35 -0700, shane.rn@gmail.com wrote:
>I'm building an addition on to my trailer and am going to upgrade our
>Heating/Cooling system. I was thinking of going with a Tempstar 3.0
>ton package heat pump from www.wholesaleac.com but would like to know
>if there were any do-it-yourself people out there who've tried this.
>Any pointers?
>
>(Thanks HVAC Gods, but I've read your usual BS in the many other
>threads on here and you provide little encouragement to people who
>threaten your "expertise". I already know that you recommend getting
>one of your people to do it for me and that its virtually impossible to
>figure out without joining your club. Its not rocket science, it can't
>be as hard as you wish people to believe.)
Go fucking post in a home-moaner help forum like
alt.home.repair.
And take your pissy 'tude with you.
>
>Thanks,
>Shane
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/
Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/
| |
| shane.rn@gmail.com 2005-10-18, 12:21 pm |
| Thanks for making my point. 
| |
| shane.rn@gmail.com 2005-10-18, 12:21 pm |
| But thanks for the direction to a useful group nonetheless.
| |
| Noon-Air 2005-10-18, 12:21 pm |
|
<shane.rn@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1129644635.540691.74580@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> I'm building an addition on to my trailer and am going to upgrade our
> Heating/Cooling system. I was thinking of going with a Tempstar 3.0
> ton package heat pump from www.wholesaleac.com but would like to know
> if there were any do-it-yourself people out there who've tried this.
> Any pointers?
Manual J and Manual D so that you have a correctly sized system, and correct
ductwork. FWIW, the standard ductwork in a trailer will not work with a
residential unit. It has to do with static air pressure and air volume/flow.
> (Thanks HVAC Gods, but I've read your usual BS in the many other
> threads on here and you provide little encouragement to people who
> threaten your "expertise".
There is little encouragement because we have seen first hand and have had
to correct all the problems from DIY installs and repairs. I hope your
insurance is paid up.
> I already know that you recommend getting
> one of your people to do it for me and that its virtually impossible to
> figure out without joining your club. Its not rocket science, it can't
> be as hard as you wish people to believe.)
I never said its impossible, I have only said that I have seen some real
scarey things, and that just in the county I live in, we lose a dozen
homes(and twice as many trailers) becuse of DIY. If you doubt me, check with
the fire department.
> Thanks,
> Shane
>
| |
| shane.rn@gmail.com 2005-10-18, 12:21 pm |
| Thanks Noon.... in light of the trailer scenario being different from
the residential units, would you say buying a smaller system just for
the addition might be a better alternative to replacing the whole
system? It about 14x40 with 2-3 rooms... I know that there will be
some conflict between the systems due to air mixing through the
doorways, but I wonder if it will have that much impact?
I was thinking of possibly getting a smaller unit for the addition and
using flexible ductwork only to feed the new rooms. Would this be
reasonable and less risk for fatal error, not to mention cheaper... ?
What is Manual J and Manual D? HVAC Manuals?
Thanks for the support...
| |
|
| Oh yea, while digging through the forum about trailers... it occured to
me that it might be important to note that the trailer is 5-6 years
old. Have the resistances changed with the airflow? I know that the
current system has a big main duct that goes down the length of the
trailer and feeds the rooms... no return... so I'm assuming that the
return happens in the trailer (thus one reason for the large space
under all of the doors?).
Thanks again...
BTW - I googled the Manual J and D stuff.. thanks..
| |
|
| On 18 Oct 2005 07:10:35 -0700, shane.rn@gmail.com wrote:
>I'm building an addition on to my trailer and am going to upgrade our
>Heating/Cooling system. I was thinking of going with a Tempstar 3.0
>ton package heat pump from www.wholesaleac.com but would like to know
>if there were any do-it-yourself people out there who've tried this.
>Any pointers?
>
>(Thanks HVAC Gods, but I've read your usual BS in the many other
>threads on here and you provide little encouragement to people who
>threaten your "expertise". I already know that you recommend getting
>one of your people to do it for me and that its virtually impossible to
>figure out without joining your club. Its not rocket science, it can't
>be as hard as you wish people to believe.)
>
>Thanks,
>Shane
Soooo..........what "WE" do is not "rocket science"?
That means you are telling me that what "WE" do is very simple?
So if its that simple and you cant figure it out....................
Then are you telling us all that YOU are the DUMBEST FUCKER on the
face of this earth?
Thanks for proving MY point.
Bubba
| |
| Shane 2005-10-18, 10:21 pm |
| Love ya man.
| |
| Shane 2005-10-18, 10:21 pm |
| Nice flaw in your deductive reasoning.
Love ya man.
Signed,
"DUMBEST FUCKER on the face of this earth"
| |
| Anthony Berlin 2005-10-18, 10:21 pm |
| The only support you have here would be that which is self percieved. Do you
not even have enough ambition to research the things that you were told
about already? You have a fuckin' computer you lazy bastard, if you want to
do it yourself, then do it your fucking self.
<shane.rn@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1129647995.060286.38750@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Thanks Noon.... in light of the trailer scenario being different from
> the residential units, would you say buying a smaller system just for
> the addition might be a better alternative to replacing the whole
> system? It about 14x40 with 2-3 rooms... I know that there will be
> some conflict between the systems due to air mixing through the
> doorways, but I wonder if it will have that much impact?
>
> I was thinking of possibly getting a smaller unit for the addition and
> using flexible ductwork only to feed the new rooms. Would this be
> reasonable and less risk for fatal error, not to mention cheaper... ?
>
> What is Manual J and Manual D? HVAC Manuals?
>
> Thanks for the support...
>
| |
| Oscar_Lives 2005-10-19, 1:21 am |
|
"Shane" <shane.rn@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1129682969.345727.164170@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> Love ya man.
>
Hey-- are you trying to turn this place into a fag forum?
We work hard to keep the cultists under control. Now we have to work to
keep out the queers?
| |
| Carolina Breeze HVAC 2005-10-19, 4:21 pm |
|
<shane.rn@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1129644635.540691.74580@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> I'm building an addition on to my trailer and am going to upgrade our
> Heating/Cooling system. I was thinking of going with a Tempstar 3.0
> ton package heat pump from www.wholesaleac.com but would like to know
> if there were any do-it-yourself people out there who've tried this.
> Any pointers?
>
> (Thanks HVAC Gods, but I've read your usual BS in the many other
> threads on here and you provide little encouragement to people who
> threaten your "expertise". I already know that you recommend getting
> one of your people to do it for me and that its virtually impossible to
> figure out without joining your club. Its not rocket science, it can't
> be as hard as you wish people to believe.)
>
> Thanks,
> Shane
>
Well shane, sure...
First, you need to get yourself an EPA card...not the $20 POS you can get on
the net, but the one that will keep mr EPA from showing up and fining you in
excess of 20,000 Bennies...
Second, you need to see if your area requires by law, a licenced
professional to install the unit. If they do, and you dont, then you may
find yourself with a little felony on your record should you be found
out.....like at repo time, or when you go to sell it and there is no record
of a mechanical permit being pulled.
Third...you need to go buy at the very least:
Vac pump
micron gauge
nitrogen tank
nitrogen regulator
silphos
oxy-act torch
scale
superheat gauge
thermocouple set
reliable manifold
and a 4 year degree to know how to properly set up the machine.
Keep in mind, you have no warranty AT ALL with internet bought machines. I
ran into a couple of these nightmares around here, and yes, they were
installed by the homeowner, and yes, we have to report them as installed
incorrectly, and fill out the paperwork that voids the warranty, and gets mr
inspector out that condems the entire living area serviced by the unit until
its fixed, permits pulled, paid for and inspection passed, and...to top it
all off, they get a bill to fix it too.
You wont have the full list of instructions with the machine you buy.
No..you wont.
Nowq..before you say...i dont need a torch, or a jug of r22, or the
nitrogen....you might...what do you do if its got a bad TEV in it?
Hummm....they dont give you a new machine.....nope..you get to replace the
part.
Tempstar is one of the ones that I have had to put more TEVs in the first
year than any other package unit...so...you go figure...
And btw....they sell York units too....and guess what? As a York dealer, I
can tell you right off jump street that when I get called to a warranty
call, we take our little laptop with the cell modem with us, and we log
right in to the York dealer net, and check the serial number...if it came
from these people, there aint a warranty.
Just looked at the site...LOL...SIXTEEN HUNDRED for a CANNED HAM???
Man...thats more than we sell em for.....you getting a HELL of a BARGAN
there...
Now....I notice it does not come with heat strips..so..what size are you
gonna put in it? I mean..what size do you need so you can add that to the
price? Pad? square to rounds? Thermostat? Is your trailer a single or
doublewide? If its a single, you REALLY need to check out the HUD specs for
your area...since here that would be oversized greatly.
You just gonna cut a hole in the floor and run a trailor return out to it?
What size? Here, you can forget what Manual D says, since we have a LOWER
face value velocity than what D calls for ....
You do know that a trailer has a duct system that sucks, and will increase
the static to numbers that the machine might not like...
Do what you want...but man...that sites a laugh a minute.
Thanks for that anyway.
Oh..wait..you wanted advice....Ok..
buy what you want, make sure that your heat strips match your manual T, and
make sure that the electrical feed to the unit is large enough to handle the
increased load.
Cut a couple of holes in the existing duct and run ya a couple of 14inch min
runs at least 5 inches off the ground to either end of the home, using the
right sized and type of take off to make the transition....also insure that
you have a min 25X 20 in floor filter return with a min of a 18 inch return
duct also at least 5 inches off the ground...make sure you install a nice
new digital non programmable thermostat with it...running new 18-8 wire from
the stat, to the unit. Set teh unit on a new pad at least 3 inches tall, and
when you snuggle it up against the home, take you some new tin, and make
your rainshield fit nice up the sides and across the top, and seal it
properly.
This is assumeing you sealed the ducts correctly, removed the original unit
from inside, sealed that hole tight, and with the proper mastic. Dont use
those duct ties from Lowes or Home Depot for securing your insulation layer
either....not unless you yhave a real good tie tool, like the Malco one,
since the straps tend to loosen over the course of a year.
Finally, call for an inspection for the permits you pulled to do this, and
when it passes the rough in inspection, you can fire it up with the
inspector there, and you can expect him to take a delta reading, and wait
for it to start to make condensate. Hopefully for you, you trapped the drain
properly, and secured it to the pad you used. with that in mind, you might
even want to fill the pan and trap BEFORE you fire it with the inspector
there, since if you dont, you might be waiting for hours for it to show a
sign of condensate.....since its gonna be sucking air back into the pipe.
Also, deopending on your zone, and if your zone requires it, you will also
want to make sure you have your fresh air intake set up correctly wired and
installed....and for GODS SAKE man, do NOT forget to wire in the outdoor
thermostat, since on mobile homes this is not an option, but code everywhere
I have seen for aheat pump on a mobile home with back up heat.
Measure your air flow with a meter for it...a hood is best and failing that,
use a good vane type, with a ruby bearing and balance the flow to each room,
and take a static pressure reading and adjust at the fan if needed.
Doublecheck the superheat to insure no refrigerant was lost during transist,
wash the coils and there ya go...you have a new heat pump intall...
its really not rocket science, but keep in mind, the formulas for checking
all that wont be with the owners manual, or the set up guide.
Also, keep in mind that after you add your heat strips, pad, thermostat,
drain, ducts, return grille, etc....you will be pushing the $2200 mark in
cash...
Most licenced contractors can install a package unit like that one, for
about $100 less than what they sell it for,with all you need... in SOME
areas....higher in others, your miliage may vary.
| |
|
| Now that is an answer! Thanks C-Breeze.
Why am I under the impression that I can save money if I install this
myself? For some reason I look at the cost of this stuff and compare
it to quotes that I get and find a great variance in cost? If it
really seemed like only $100 installation cost, I would be insane to
even consider fooling with this.. but it seems more like $1000+ to
me... but then again, I don't know what the cost of the systems are to
the dealers, so I can only make guesses...
I'll mull this over and get back to you guys...
C'ept you Anthony, some how you must believe that I'm not using the
computer to learn more about HVAC stuff... thanks anyway, you prolly
need to go hang out with Bubba.
Oh and you Oscar_Lives, no time to play with your weenie comments...
thanks anyway... :p
| |
| Power's Mechanical 2005-10-19, 5:21 pm |
| (Thanks HVAC Gods, but I've read your usual BS in the many other
threads on here and you provide little encouragement to people who
threaten your "expertise". I already know that you recommend getting
one of your people to do it for me and that its virtually impossible to
figure out without joining your club. Its not rocket science, it can't
be as hard as you wish people to believe.)
xxxx
Shane you are right, its not rocket science and anyone with any ability
at all can do it.
The problem is for you to do it right the additional tooling is going
to cost more than a installer would charge you to do it. Seriously.
| |
| Anthony Berlin 2005-10-19, 11:21 pm |
| Somehow? Somehow I must believe? I wonder what the fuck brought me to that
conclusion? Actually I don't mind the educated ignorant HO's like yourself,
you learn enough to get yourself into trouble...then you either have to call
me or another trade brother to bail your XXX out, and when I stick it in to
dumb fuckers like you, I twist it until it breaks. Dollars to doughnuts, you
end up with twice the expenditure of the equipments actual value within 2
years. Mark it on the calender.
"Shane" <shane.rn@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1129751225.151145.147420@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> Now that is an answer! Thanks C-Breeze.
>
> Why am I under the impression that I can save money if I install this
> myself? For some reason I look at the cost of this stuff and compare
> it to quotes that I get and find a great variance in cost? If it
> really seemed like only $100 installation cost, I would be insane to
> even consider fooling with this.. but it seems more like $1000+ to
> me... but then again, I don't know what the cost of the systems are to
> the dealers, so I can only make guesses...
>
> I'll mull this over and get back to you guys...
>
> C'ept you Anthony, some how you must believe that I'm not using the
> computer to learn more about HVAC stuff... thanks anyway, you prolly
> need to go hang out with Bubba.
>
> Oh and you Oscar_Lives, no time to play with your weenie comments...
> thanks anyway... :p
>
| |
|
| Let me shift gears a bit here, in the near term, I need to heat/cool a
12x14x7 room. If I have a 2 ton Intertherm system (I think this is
just the heater - which is what I'm mainly concerned with at this time
of year) in a 14x70 trailer, would it be too taxing on the system to
cut into the main duct and run 6" flexible ductwork (R 6) to the single
room? Allowing for air to return under the door like the rest of the
trailer dose... R13 insulation in the sheetrock walls, R19 in the
ceiling and floor, with 2 windows that do not get intense sunlight for
very long through out the day.
Anthony,
You wonder what the fuck brought you to that conclusion? It couldn't
possibly have been that I'm here, in a usenet group called alt.hvac
(usually found on a the internet, which is usually only accessed via a
computer) asking questions to those have the most experience in the
knowledge I seek, as I exercise my determination to understand
something that I have no local informal resource to learn from. You
must have missed that part... sorry man. You really should be sitting
with Bubba over there.
Its assholes like you who motivate me to figure this shit out myself
and share the knowledge that I get from the School of Hard Knocks with
others. I'd rather pay $1000 more for tools, wrong parts, hard lessons
and so forth to gain the knowledge and experience to make this happen
than let some fuck with your attitude come out and pretend like what he
does is so special that he can't even begin to share the knowledge...
sure, it might cost me more money in the long run, but I get to avoid
contributing to the well being of socially inept fucks like yourself...
and look what I get to learn along the way!!! pretty cool, huh? No
pun intended.
On a lighter note, C-Breeze's reasonably detailed (at least for my
level) information and Power Mech's case in point ". . . anyone with
any ability at all can do it - but the tools to do it right are
expensive" have made me reconsider doing this myself... (the cost of
the Manual D alone was like $130 where ever it was that I saw it)...
this not being a set of tools that I would use very often at all, I can
see where it would be more effective to hire someone with the tools and
who already knew how to use them would be better. Thanks guys... I'll
give this strong consideration.
Anyone care to entertain my flexible duct short term solution question?
Thanks again for all the info and fun!!!
| |
| PrecisionMachinisT 2005-10-20, 3:21 am |
|
<shane.rn@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1129644635.540691.74580@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> I'm building an addition on to my trailer and am going to upgrade our
> Heating/Cooling system. I was thinking of going with a Tempstar 3.0
> ton package heat pump from www.wholesaleac.com but would like to know
> if there were any do-it-yourself people out there who've tried this.
> Any pointers?
>
At that price, suggest install at least pair of 5 ton units....
--
SVL
| |
| PrecisionMachinisT 2005-10-20, 3:21 am |
|
"Shane" <shane.rn@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1129780202.606009.65070@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
> Anyone care to entertain my flexible duct short term solution question?
>
http://www.genieac.com/ptacunits.htm
--
SVL
| |
|
| > http://www.genieac.com/ptacunits.htm
Nice... I didn't think about these... only 2 concerns: (I quickly
browsed the pages - gotta go to work) is there one that I don't have to
cut a hole in the wall to install? sort of a free standing one? and
are these perfectly safe to have in a 6 year olds room? I know all
kids can create something outta nothing, but I just want to know if
this is one of the safest ways to provide local heat to a child's room
(aside from a central system).
What would be the right size for the room described above? Thanks SVL!
| |
| Oscar_Lives 2005-10-20, 10:21 am |
|
"Shane" <shane.rn@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1129803795.784889.67840@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
> Nice... I didn't think about these... only 2 concerns: (I quickly
> browsed the pages - gotta go to work) is there one that I don't have to
> cut a hole in the wall to install? sort of a free standing one? and
> are these perfectly safe to have in a 6 year olds room? I know all
> kids can create something outta nothing, but I just want to know if
> this is one of the safest ways to provide local heat to a child's room
> (aside from a central system).
>
> What would be the right size for the room described above? Thanks SVL!
>
Goddamn you are a whiny fuck.
Get the hell out of here before I come down and beat the crap out of you.
You are in way over your head.
Call a professional and don't forget to PAY him or her.
Now, Beat It.
| |
| ..p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com 2005-10-20, 11:21 am |
| On Thu, 20 Oct 2005 12:44:21 GMT, "Oscar_Lives" <nospam@nospam.net>
wrote:
>
>"Shane" <shane.rn@gmail.com> wrote in message
>news:1129803795.784889.67840@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Give him a case of lighters.
[color=darkred]
>
>Goddamn you are a whiny fuck.
>
>Get the hell out of here before I come down and beat the crap out of you.
>
>You are in way over your head.
>
>Call a professional and don't forget to PAY him or her.
>
>Now, Beat It.
>
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/
Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/
| |
| PrecisionMachinisT 2005-10-20, 1:21 pm |
|
"Shane" <shane.rn@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1129803795.784889.67840@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
> Nice... I didn't think about these... only 2 concerns: (I quickly
> browsed the pages - gotta go to work) is there one that I don't have to
> cut a hole in the wall to install? sort of a free standing one?
No, now you would be looking at the mini-splits instead.
> are these perfectly safe to have in a 6 year olds room?
Just make sure the kid is placed in a straight jacket whenever left alone.
> What would be the right size
The right sized unit will run near constantly when system design limits are
reached, and there's no way to know where this will be without doing a load
calc....
Now suggest call in a pro to assess the entire situation and to advise /
estimate as to what your best course of action might be.
Be honest and upfront with them on the phone as to your intentions, and also
pay them to have your existing system checked out at this same time.
--
SVL
| |
|
| I've never heard of a mini-split... sounds like something more
managable for the short run.
I'll call some HVAC guys and get some numbers together... Any tips on
avoiding idiots like Bubba, Anthony, and Oscar_Lives? I'm sure they
are good at HVAC stuff (yea, you get the benefit of the doubt even in
light of your vulgar display of dumbass), but as you can see, I'm
probably going to ask and questions and expect reasonable answers (as
opposed to "boy, I'll kick yer' XXX if you question my position!!").
Ahh, nevermind... we got fools in every game... I'll just politely ask
them to GFO if they have no social skills.
I still may end up doing this myself, but at least now I have more
information about what I'm up against.
Thanks!
and for those DIYer's who might dig throught this thread, here are some
links and info that I've found useful so far (thanks for the e-mailed
info):
"To much capacity and there is not enough humidity removal. To little
capacity and the unit runs to much. " - Thus, size matters
http://www.hvacopcost.com/
http://198.147.238.24/ac_calc/default.asp
http://www.eere.energy.gov/consumer...m/mytopic=12630
http://www.genieac.com/ptacunits.htm
http://www.energystar.gov/ia/produc...UIDE_2COLOR.pdf
http://www.accaconference.com/Merch...Category_Code=M
| |
| PrecisionMachinisT 2005-10-20, 6:21 pm |
|
"Shane" <shane.rn@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1129833015.545898.64220@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
> I'll call some HVAC guys and get some numbers together... Any tips on
> avoiding idiots like Bubba, Anthony, and Oscar_Lives?
>
None of the above individuals happen to be idiots, I can assure you.
>
> Ahh, nevermind... we got fools in every game... I'll just politely ask
> them to GFO if they have no social skills.
>
Usenet is a VERY poor place in which to make judgments as to what one's
social skills might be like in everyday life.....BUT being's as you ARE
posting from Google....
>
> I still may end up doing this myself, but at least now I have more
> information about what I'm up against.
>
Like anyone really gives a flying rat-fuck....
--
SVL
| |
| Bubba 2005-10-21, 12:21 am |
| On 20 Oct 2005 11:30:15 -0700, "Shane" <shane.rn@gmail.com> wrote:
>I've never heard of a mini-split... sounds like something more
>managable for the short run.
>
>I'll call some HVAC guys and get some numbers together... Any tips on
>avoiding idiots like Bubba, Anthony, and Oscar_Lives? I'm sure they
>are good at HVAC stuff (yea, you get the benefit of the doubt even in
>light of your vulgar display of dumbass), but as you can see, I'm
>probably going to ask and questions and expect reasonable answers (as
>opposed to "boy, I'll kick yer' XXX if you question my position!!").
>Ahh, nevermind... we got fools in every game... I'll just politely ask
>them to GFO if they have no social skills.
>
>I still may end up doing this myself, but at least now I have more
>information about what I'm up against.
>
>Thanks!
>
>and for those DIYer's who might dig throught this thread, here are some
>links and info that I've found useful so far (thanks for the e-mailed
>info):
>
>"To much capacity and there is not enough humidity removal. To little
>capacity and the unit runs to much. " - Thus, size matters
>
>http://www.hvacopcost.com/
>http://198.147.238.24/ac_calc/default.asp
>http://www.eere.energy.gov/consumer...m/mytopic=12630
>http://www.genieac.com/ptacunits.htm
>http://www.energystar.gov/ia/produc...UIDE_2COLOR.pdf
>http://www.accaconference.com/Merch...Category_Code=M
Shane,
Give it up. You are in way over your head. You thought it would be
easy. Its not. You know it, we know it. You've done some research and
found its not easy and its not inexpensive.
Spend your money or do it yourself and spend even more money.
Now go away before I come down and smack some "Bubba" all over you.
Bubba
| |
| Oscar_Lives 2005-10-21, 1:21 am |
|
"Bubba" <ReMoVeLikealake@iname.com> wrote in message
news:njmgl11pd8rofseb5rm85tsuqp02ho39ps@4ax.com...
> On 20 Oct 2005 11:30:15 -0700, "Shane" <shane.rn@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Shane,
> Give it up. You are in way over your head. You thought it would be
> easy. Its not. You know it, we know it. You've done some research and
> found its not easy and its not inexpensive.
> Spend your money or do it yourself and spend even more money.
> Now go away before I come down and smack some "Bubba" all over you.
> Bubba
I was thinking about opening up a 55 gallon drum of "whoop XXX" for Shane,
or maybe just a plain old-fashioned skull fucking.
|
|
|
|
|