Heating and air conditioning - Bizarre Goodman GMP075-3 problem

Author

Bizarre Goodman GMP075-3 problem - no heat, 6 dg f outside, help!!

Zoomler

2006-02-18, 3:21 am

I have had a Goodman GMP075-3 in my condo for nearly 5 years now (the
condo is 5 years old).

Yesterday when I turned the heat on the unit powered off after about
10 to 20 minutes.

I discovered that if I turn just the fan (blower wheel) on without
heat or cold (which is usually where I have it as we have had a warm
winter (until today) here in the northeast), it runs fine. If I turn
it on with air conditioning, it's also fine. But if I turn it on with
heat, the main blower wheel powers down. The furnace part runs fine -
the furnace inducer blower motor turns on, the ignitor turns on, the
gas turns on, and the furnace fires up - all appears to work fine. But
the main blower wheel stays powered off. So, no circulation = no heat!
The whole unit shuts off after 10 to 20 minutes, I suspect because one
of the temperature limit reset switches gets tripped since there's no
air blowing through the furnace.

If I switch it back to "cool" or "off" with the fan turned "on," the
blower wheel starts back up again.

I can't figure out why suddenly turning "heat" on turns the main
blower wheel off.

I carefully checked all the wires and connections, everything seems
just fine.

I have the knowledge and skill to replace most of the parts. But I
have no idea where to start. The circuit board? The transformer? One
of the limit switches?

I'm coping right now with the fireplace, fans, and space heaters.

HELP

Al Moran

2006-02-18, 4:21 am

On Sat, 18 Feb 2006 02:12:37 -0500, Zoomler <jdhgu@foie4.eig> wrote:

>I have had a Goodman GMP075-3 in my condo for nearly 5 years now (the
>condo is 5 years old).
>
>Yesterday when I turned the heat on the unit powered off after about
>10 to 20 minutes.
>
>I discovered that if I turn just the fan (blower wheel) on without
>heat or cold (which is usually where I have it as we have had a warm
>winter (until today) here in the northeast), it runs fine. If I turn
>it on with air conditioning, it's also fine. But if I turn it on with
>heat, the main blower wheel powers down. The furnace part runs fine -
>the furnace inducer blower motor turns on, the ignitor turns on, the
>gas turns on, and the furnace fires up - all appears to work fine. But
>the main blower wheel stays powered off. So, no circulation = no heat!
>The whole unit shuts off after 10 to 20 minutes, I suspect because one
>of the temperature limit reset switches gets tripped since there's no
>air blowing through the furnace.
>
>If I switch it back to "cool" or "off" with the fan turned "on," the
>blower wheel starts back up again.
>
>I can't figure out why suddenly turning "heat" on turns the main
>blower wheel off.
>
>I carefully checked all the wires and connections, everything seems
>just fine.
>
>I have the knowledge and skill to replace most of the parts. But I
>have no idea where to start. The circuit board? The transformer? One
>of the limit switches?
>
>I'm coping right now with the fireplace, fans, and space heaters.
>
>HELP

Replace the outdoor condensing unit. That will fix it right up.

Zoomler

2006-02-18, 6:21 am

Al Moran <almoran@hotmail.com> wrote:

>Replace the outdoor condensing unit. That will fix it right up.

Um, what? The outdoor condensing unit? I have no problem with that, it
works fine. The issue is with the heater. How would a problem with the
outdoor condensing unit cause the blower wheel to stop when the heat
is turned on? The outdoor condensing unit doesn't come even come into
the equation. And why would you say I need to replace the whole unit?

That's kind of a major thing to say in such a small sentence without
giving any further information or backing it up.

Zoomler

2006-02-18, 7:21 am

I apologize if I sound disrespectful, I don't mean any disrespect, but
I was quite surprised by your reply; this is the first time I've ever
heard that the outdoor condensing unit is required in order to run
heat in a forced air furnace! :\

Zoomler <jdhgu@foie4.eig> wrote:

>Al Moran <almoran@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>Um, what? The outdoor condensing unit? I have no problem with that, it
>works fine. The issue is with the heater. How would a problem with the
>outdoor condensing unit cause the blower wheel to stop when the heat
>is turned on? The outdoor condensing unit doesn't come even come into
>the equation. And why would you say I need to replace the whole unit?
>
>That's kind of a major thing to say in such a small sentence without
>giving any further information or backing it up.

.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com

2006-02-18, 8:21 am

On Sat, 18 Feb 2006 05:02:09 -0500, Zoomler <jdhgu@foie4.eig> wrote:

>Al Moran <almoran@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>Um, what? The outdoor condensing unit? I have no problem with that, it
>works fine. The issue is with the heater. How would a problem with the
>outdoor condensing unit cause the blower wheel to stop when the heat
>is turned on? The outdoor condensing unit doesn't come even come into
>the equation. And why would you say I need to replace the whole unit?
>
>That's kind of a major thing to say in such a small sentence without
>giving any further information or backing it up.

Well, it's very technical, but he's right. That's what you
have to do.

Either that, or you're going to have to stop being such a
cheap fuck, break loose with a couple of bucks, and call someone who
knows what the fuck they're doing to come fix it.

This is not a home-owner advice forum. GO post in
alt.home.repair.

--

Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!

http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/

Bubba

2006-02-18, 10:21 am

On Sat, 18 Feb 2006 05:02:09 -0500, Zoomler <jdhgu@foie4.eig> wrote:

>Al Moran <almoran@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>Um, what? The outdoor condensing unit? I have no problem with that, it
>works fine. The issue is with the heater. How would a problem with the
>outdoor condensing unit cause the blower wheel to stop when the heat
>is turned on? The outdoor condensing unit doesn't come even come into
>the equation. And why would you say I need to replace the whole unit?
>
>That's kind of a major thing to say in such a small sentence without
>giving any further information or backing it up.

Hey Zoomer,
Stop being so damn disrespectful. Al has been at this a long long time
and he knows his shit. I agree with his decision 100%! You even told
us you have no idea where to start so why would you argue with him. If
you really want to do it your way, then go ahead and start replacing
transformers, circuit boards and everything else until you get to the
outdoor unit. Its really quite simple. After all, Its not rocket
science, you know? Make sure you get a new digital programmable
thermostat. Its almost always the thermostat.
Bubba

Noon-Air

2006-02-18, 11:21 am

"Zoomler" <jdhgu@foie4.eig> wrote in message
news:5ahdv1tbbbfmnvvkrjcrr4pn16n8im1b4c@4ax.com...
>I have had a Goodman GMP075-3 in my condo for nearly 5 years now (the
> condo is 5 years old).
>
> Yesterday when I turned the heat on the unit powered off after about
> 10 to 20 minutes.
>
> I discovered that if I turn just the fan (blower wheel) on without
> heat or cold (which is usually where I have it as we have had a warm
> winter (until today) here in the northeast), it runs fine. If I turn
> it on with air conditioning, it's also fine. But if I turn it on with
> heat, the main blower wheel powers down. The furnace part runs fine -
> the furnace inducer blower motor turns on, the ignitor turns on, the
> gas turns on, and the furnace fires up - all appears to work fine. But
> the main blower wheel stays powered off. So, no circulation = no heat!
> The whole unit shuts off after 10 to 20 minutes, I suspect because one
> of the temperature limit reset switches gets tripped since there's no
> air blowing through the furnace.
>
> If I switch it back to "cool" or "off" with the fan turned "on," the
> blower wheel starts back up again.
>
> I can't figure out why suddenly turning "heat" on turns the main
> blower wheel off.
>
> I carefully checked all the wires and connections, everything seems
> just fine.
>
> I have the knowledge and skill to replace most of the parts. But I
> have no idea where to start. The circuit board? The transformer? One
> of the limit switches?
>
> I'm coping right now with the fireplace, fans, and space heaters.
>
> HELP

its not bizarre at all, its a simple repair..... all you have to do is call
you local, *competent*, insured, professionally trained, HVAC technician to
diagnose and correct the problem. When you tell him everything you posted
here, he will know what parts to bring.

Oscar_Lives

2006-02-18, 4:21 pm

gofish@gonefishin.net

2006-02-18, 5:21 pm

Zoomler <jdhgu@foie4.eig> wrote:

>I have had a Goodman GMP075-3 in my condo for nearly 5 years now (the
>condo is 5 years old).
>
>Yesterday when I turned the heat on the unit powered off after about
>10 to 20 minutes.
>
>I discovered that if I turn just the fan (blower wheel) on without
>heat or cold (which is usually where I have it as we have had a warm
>winter (until today) here in the northeast), it runs fine. If I turn
>it on with air conditioning, it's also fine. But if I turn it on with
>heat, the main blower wheel powers down. The furnace part runs fine -
>the furnace inducer blower motor turns on, the ignitor turns on, the
>gas turns on, and the furnace fires up - all appears to work fine. But
>the main blower wheel stays powered off. So, no circulation = no heat!
>The whole unit shuts off after 10 to 20 minutes, I suspect because one
>of the temperature limit reset switches gets tripped since there's no
>air blowing through the furnace.
>
>If I switch it back to "cool" or "off" with the fan turned "on," the
>blower wheel starts back up again.
>
>I can't figure out why suddenly turning "heat" on turns the main
>blower wheel off.
>
>I carefully checked all the wires and connections, everything seems
>just fine.
>
>I have the knowledge and skill to replace most of the parts. But I
>have no idea where to start. The circuit board? The transformer? One
>of the limit switches?
>
>I'm coping right now with the fireplace, fans, and space heaters.
>
>HELP

suggest that you research which component(s) control the fan in these
seperate modes of operation:
1) ac
2) fan only
3) heat

once you have successfully gained that information, suggest you
determine which tools and skills you will need to accurately calibrate
and adjust the part(s) that require replacement.
Failure to accurately adjust and calibrate replacement parts to
furnace manufacturers specifcations may void warranties, may void your
home owners insurance, may burn your house down, may kill you and your
family.

if al moron & pjm learned this info, surely you can too.

.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com

2006-02-18, 5:21 pm

On Sat, 18 Feb 2006 16:01:05 -0500, "Mo Hoaner"
<d923aaaa@bellsouth.net> wrote:

>
>"Bubba >" <<ReMoVe likealake@iname.com> wrote in message
>news:so9ev1h8d1rvss88d3r8lho8mbmh6k0sis@4ax.com...
>
>Actually, I also have great experience with the exact unit that you
>mentioned that you have. As you mentioned in your original post, it could
>well be the transformer. Check and see if it looks like the one in the
>attached photograph. If so, you can be sure it's bad. The company that
>manufactured your unit for the company who's brand name is on the midpoint
>unit issued a recall for "excessive instantaneous heat", followed by a no
>heat condition". The midpoint unit should be found about midway between the
>outdoor unit (ODU), and the indoor unit (IDU). Basically, what is supposed
>to happen is this: The IDTSU calls for a startup. This initiates a prestart
>cycle where a nitrogen turbine powered oil pump pre pressurizes the sleeve
>bearings on the main turbine. After proper flow is detected ultrasonically,
>a start sequence is initiated. This is where the problem appears to be. If
>the transformer is bad, the turbine cannot achieve spinup. This results in
>flameout (this is where the flame gets put out) condition. If for some
>reason, flameout does not occur properly, them the flame comes out of the
>unit. As others said, it really is best left to those that have experience
>with this unit, and this condition.
>

I wish you'd stop giving away trade secrets .....

--

Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!

http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/

Zyp

2006-02-18, 5:21 pm

I think PJM missed naming this newsgroup.

He should have called it "free diagnosis and information to fix your HVAC"
newsgroup. Or "the answers to your HVAC questions is worth what you paid"
newsgroup!

Zyp

"Oscar_Lives" <nospam@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:bbLJf.806970$xm3.669907@attbi_s21...
>
> "Zoomler" <jdhgu@foie4.eig> wrote in message
> news:5ahdv1tbbbfmnvvkrjcrr4pn16n8im1b4c@4ax.com...
>
>
> Sounds like the thermostat has given up the ghost.
>

Zoomler

2006-02-18, 7:21 pm

I can see this is a group of trolls who have no interest in helping
people. Sorry I posted.

.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com

2006-02-18, 7:21 pm

On Sat, 18 Feb 2006 17:23:56 -0500, Zoomler <jdhgu@foie4.eig> wrote:

>I can see this is a group of trolls who have no interest in helping
>people. Sorry I posted.
>

Good catch.

Buh-by.

--

Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!

http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/

Noon-Air

2006-02-18, 7:21 pm

Post a legitmate e-mail addy, and I will give you the same advice I gave you
before... including the point that the replacement part is a retro-fit that
if not done correctly will result in more damage than you started with.
Call a *competent*, licensed, insured, professionally trained, HVAC
technician.

"Zoomler" <jdhgu@foie4.eig> wrote in message
news:2j7fv1hufa94o3lh6dk0su89eobkmofd41@4ax.com...
>I can see this is a group of trolls who have no interest in helping
> people. Sorry I posted.
>
>

jquinn@techie.com

2006-02-18, 8:21 pm

Hi Zoomler,

First off let me say how sorry I am for what happened to you, both with
your furnace and in the group here. I suspect you are an honest person
with a tinkering mindset (like me ;), who likes learning how things
work, as opposed to a person who tries to save money by saying, "I'll
fix it myself!" If the latter is true, you really won't save money,
you'll spend more, because online vendors tend to charge more for the
parts you need to fix your equipment than most home repair services do
(at least the honest ones).

You may be new to Usenet, you may not, but the cold reality of it is
that it's made up of a majority of two people: 1) Hardcore regulars,
who tend to be extremely hard on and flame new posters who are not
familiar with a newsgroup's customs, and 2) Hardcore trolls, who are
basically the psychologically unstable people who get angry at group
number 1 and make it their mission to disrupt the newsgroups. This
makes it very hard for an honest "new to a newsgroup" poster who tells
the truth to get anything much more than snide, hurtful, and unhelpful
remarks from both groups of posters. Keep in mind there are people who
fall out of the range of both of these groups, so you may get some
helpful replies from them, but sadly, these people are in the minority.

This particular newsgroup has a large number of professional repair
people in it, and they tend to use it as a place to vent and tell
stories about "not so bright" customers and such

. So when you
honestly identify yourself as an end user who wants to fix your
equipment yourself despite extreme circumstances (extremely cold
outside), they see you as someone who wants to take away from their
means of earning a living at all costs. I suspect that is the reasoning
for telling you to replace one of the most expensive parts of the
system that you surely wouldn't know how to do on your own

(and
wound't fix your problem either).

Hopefully this helps you understand (at least to some degree) what
happened to you here.

Sadly, honesty is NOT the best policy in the world of Usenet. You would
have done better to simply say you are trying to fix a Goodman GMP075-3
and are stumped. Or even better yet, that you are trying to fix -a
customers- Goodman GMP075-3.

If you are determined to make the repair yourself, I would advise that
something that sends a signal to the blower motor to turn on when the
heat is turned on has gone bad. If all the wires look good (nothing
frayed, no copper wires slipped out of connectors), I would suspect
either 1) the thermostat, or 2) the circuit board. A home repair person
would replace the cheaper part first, and if that doesn't fix it, the
more expensive part. That would be the thermostat first, then the
circuit board. (If you look to the right side of the circuit board, the
second blue wire down from the top is the wire that sends the signal to
the blower motor when the heat is on.) Goodman actually released an
upgrade to the circuit board that originally ships with the GMP075-3.
You can find it by searching for it on Google, you will find some
vendors who will sell it to you and ship overnight.

Hope that helps. Good luck!

Zoomler wrote:
> I can see this is a group of trolls who have no interest in helping
> people. Sorry I posted.

Zoomler

2006-02-18, 11:21 pm

jquinn, thanks SO MUCH for the helpful post! I cannot thank you
enough, you are a saint! If only all of usenet was like you...

jquinn@techie.com wrote:
[color=darkred]
>Hi Zoomler,
>
>First off let me say how sorry I am for what happened to you, both with
>your furnace and in the group here. I suspect you are an honest person
>with a tinkering mindset (like me ;), who likes learning how things
>work, as opposed to a person who tries to save money by saying, "I'll
>fix it myself!" If the latter is true, you really won't save money,
>you'll spend more, because online vendors tend to charge more for the
>parts you need to fix your equipment than most home repair services do
>(at least the honest ones).
>
>You may be new to Usenet, you may not, but the cold reality of it is
>that it's made up of a majority of two people: 1) Hardcore regulars,
>who tend to be extremely hard on and flame new posters who are not
>familiar with a newsgroup's customs, and 2) Hardcore trolls, who are
>basically the psychologically unstable people who get angry at group
>number 1 and make it their mission to disrupt the newsgroups. This
>makes it very hard for an honest "new to a newsgroup" poster who tells
>the truth to get anything much more than snide, hurtful, and unhelpful
>remarks from both groups of posters. Keep in mind there are people who
>fall out of the range of both of these groups, so you may get some
>helpful replies from them, but sadly, these people are in the minority.
>
>This particular newsgroup has a large number of professional repair
>people in it, and they tend to use it as a place to vent and tell
>stories about "not so bright" customers and such

. So when you
>honestly identify yourself as an end user who wants to fix your
>equipment yourself despite extreme circumstances (extremely cold
>outside), they see you as someone who wants to take away from their
>means of earning a living at all costs. I suspect that is the reasoning
>for telling you to replace one of the most expensive parts of the
>system that you surely wouldn't know how to do on your own

(and
>wound't fix your problem either).
>
>Hopefully this helps you understand (at least to some degree) what
>happened to you here.
>
>Sadly, honesty is NOT the best policy in the world of Usenet. You would
>have done better to simply say you are trying to fix a Goodman GMP075-3
>and are stumped. Or even better yet, that you are trying to fix -a
>customers- Goodman GMP075-3.
>
>If you are determined to make the repair yourself, I would advise that
>something that sends a signal to the blower motor to turn on when the
>heat is turned on has gone bad. If all the wires look good (nothing
>frayed, no copper wires slipped out of connectors), I would suspect
>either 1) the thermostat, or 2) the circuit board. A home repair person
>would replace the cheaper part first, and if that doesn't fix it, the
>more expensive part. That would be the thermostat first, then the
>circuit board. (If you look to the right side of the circuit board, the
>second blue wire down from the top is the wire that sends the signal to
>the blower motor when the heat is on.) Goodman actually released an
>upgrade to the circuit board that originally ships with the GMP075-3.
>You can find it by searching for it on Google, you will find some
>vendors who will sell it to you and ship overnight.
>
>Hope that helps. Good luck!
>
>Zoomler wrote:

Zoomler

2006-02-18, 11:21 pm

Fuck you too.

..p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com wrote:

>
> Fuck you, XXXXXXX.
>

Al Moran

2006-02-19, 8:21 am

.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com

2006-02-19, 9:21 am

On Sat, 18 Feb 2006 21:29:51 -0500, Zoomler <jdhgu@foie4.eig> wrote:

>jquinn, thanks SO MUCH for the helpful post! I cannot thank you
>enough, you are a saint! If only all of usenet was like you...

You fucking idiot.

Some XXXXXXX guesses, and tells you to guess, and you thank
him ? Try 'call someone out to DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM AND FIX IT', you
moron.
[color=darkred]
>
>
>jquinn@techie.com wrote:
>

--

Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!

http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/

Tekkie®

2006-02-19, 7:21 pm

posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.

> You may be new to Usenet, you may not, but the cold reality of it is

You didn't do ANY research AT ALL!!!
> that it's made up of a majority of two people: 1) Hardcore regulars,
> who tend to be extremely hard on and flame new posters who are not
> familiar with a newsgroup's customs, and 2) Hardcore trolls, who are
> basically the psychologically unstable people who get angry at group
> number 1 and make it their mission to disrupt the newsgroups.

So, sport, which ARE YOU?
>

--
My boss said I was dumb and apathetic.
I said I don't know and I don't care...

Tekkie

Tekkie®

2006-02-19, 7:21 pm

Zoomler posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.

> jquinn, thanks SO MUCH for the helpful post! I cannot thank you
> enough, you are a saint! If only all of usenet was like you...
>
It isn't, life isn't, grow up and do your own research...
--
My boss said I was dumb and apathetic.
I said I don't know and I don't care...

Tekkie

Zoomler

2006-02-21, 11:21 pm

Jquinn,

Thanks a ton. The circuit board in my GMP075-3 had a ton of crud on it
and looked pretty bad, so I suspected that first. I ordered the
upgraded board from Best Buy Heating & Air Conditioning yesterday. I
got it today. It's a much cleaner board and appears to be a much more
solid design. It doesn't have all those exposed resistors all over it
like the old Texas Instruments board had.

I took the old board out, cleaned up the contacts on the wires, put in
the new board, and voila, the system now works like a charm!

Thanks again!

Here's a big fuck you to all the unhelpful troll shitheads who need to
seriously get a life.

jquinn@techie.com wrote:

>If you are determined to make the repair yourself, I would advise that
>something that sends a signal to the blower motor to turn on when the
>heat is turned on has gone bad. If all the wires look good (nothing
>frayed, no copper wires slipped out of connectors), I would suspect
>either 1) the thermostat, or 2) the circuit board.

Oscar_Lives

2006-02-22, 12:21 am

"Zoomler" <jdhgu@foie4.eig> wrote in message
news:pvjnv11cckdbb82bm9n2iead3fj9oj2ups@4ax.com...
> Jquinn,
>
> Thanks a ton. The circuit board in my GMP075-3 had a ton of crud on it
> and looked pretty bad, so I suspected that first. I ordered the
> upgraded board from Best Buy Heating & Air Conditioning yesterday. I
> got it today. It's a much cleaner board and appears to be a much more
> solid design. It doesn't have all those exposed resistors all over it
> like the old Texas Instruments board had.
>
> I took the old board out, cleaned up the contacts on the wires, put in
> the new board, and voila, the system now works like a charm!

>
> Thanks again!
>
>
> Here's a big fuck you to all the unhelpful troll shitheads who need to
> seriously get a life.
>
>
>
> jquinn@techie.com wrote:
>
>

You can usually clean up the old circuit boards by scrubbing them with steel
wool on the backside (where all the soldered connections are), but do it
with the power energized to the board to be sure to induce electron flow.

~^Johnny^~

2006-02-22, 1:21 am

On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 03:20:02 GMT, "Oscar_Lives" <nospam@nospam.net>
wrote:

>
>"Zoomler" <jdhgu@foie4.eig> wrote in message
>news:pvjnv11cckdbb82bm9n2iead3fj9oj2ups@4ax.com...
>
>
>You can usually clean up the old circuit boards by scrubbing them with steel
>wool on the backside (where all the soldered connections are), but do it
>with the power energized to the board to be sure to induce electron flow.
>

And use a strong saline solution (ferric chloride and potassium
permanganate). And apply DOUBLE the supply voltage to the board,
to save additional time.

A quick dip in aqua regia will finish it off nicely, on the component
side, while still energized at twice the supply voltage, of course.

CAUTION:
Please wear a face mask and protective clothing during the entire
process. This cleaning process is rather aggressive, and is not
without its personal safety hazards.

--
-john
wide-open at throttle dot info

Bill

2006-02-22, 6:21 am

In article <pvjnv11cckdbb82bm9n2iead3fj9oj2ups@4ax.com>,
Zoomler <jdhgu@foie4.eig> wrote:

> Thanks again!
>
>
> Here's a big fuck you to all the unhelpful troll shitheads who need to
> seriously get a life.

ES&D
You were told to take your lame XXX to alt.home.repair.
You aren't in HVAC and we don't give a shit about your little personal
problem.
I see you're too stupid to grasp you're in the wrong newsgroup even now.

--
Paul's cat got a furball and kept saying weasel's name.

*Hack* *Hack* *hack*

jquinn@techie.com

2006-02-22, 6:21 am

Typically, circuit boards don't go bad. However, the original ones that
shipped with the Goodman 075-3 were kind of twitchy. I have had my
share of problems with them. Make sure you keep your air filters
replaced with clean ones every 30 - 60 days so the new one doesn't get
re-caked with grime.

This group isn't all -that- bad if you kill filter the main trolls.
Most of them posted in your thread so just go through it and add them
and it will clean up the group a -lot-.

Bubba

2006-02-22, 10:21 am

On 22 Feb 2006 01:59:43 -0800, jquinn@techie.com wrote:

>Typically, circuit boards don't go bad. However, the original ones that
>shipped with the Goodman 075-3 were kind of twitchy. I have had my
>share of problems with them. Make sure you keep your air filters
>replaced with clean ones every 30 - 60 days so the new one doesn't get
>re-caked with grime.
>
>This group isn't all -that- bad if you kill filter the main trolls.
>Most of them posted in your thread so just go through it and add them
>and it will clean up the group a -lot-.

Yeah, so clean your filter and your board wont go bad?
buh-duh
Bubba

CAVHBC

2006-02-22, 12:21 pm

"Zoomler" <jdhgu@foie4.eig> wrote in message
news:pvjnv11cckdbb82bm9n2iead3fj9oj2ups@4ax.com...
> Jquinn,
>
> Thanks a ton. The circuit board in my GMP075-3 had a ton of crud on it
> and looked pretty bad, so I suspected that first.

Dirt had NOTHING to do with the board going bad.
Nothing.
Nada
Its no reason to suspect a damn thing...unless you are uneducated and are
just looking to throw parts at it.

>I ordered the
> upgraded board from Best Buy Heating & Air Conditioning yesterday. I
> got it today. It's a much cleaner board and appears to be a much more
> solid design. It doesn't have all those exposed resistors all over it
> like the old Texas Instruments board had.

Wow. I honestly hope that you didnt pay more than $15 for it, excluding
shipping of course...

>
> I took the old board out, cleaned up the contacts on the wires, put in
> the new board, and voila, the system now works like a charm!

>
> Thanks again!

Umm..yea...since this boards gonna fail faster than the old one, you did get
TWO right?

>
>
> Here's a big fuck you to all the unhelpful troll shitheads who need to
> seriously get a life.

Its ok..we get paid for what we do, and it does not take us 3 weeks to
figure the problem out either.

>
>
>
> jquinn@techie.com wrote:
>
>

Tekkie®

2006-02-22, 10:21 pm

Oscar_Lives posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.

>
> "Zoomler" <jdhgu@foie4.eig> wrote in message
> news:pvjnv11cckdbb82bm9n2iead3fj9oj2ups@4ax.com...
>
>
> You can usually clean up the old circuit boards by scrubbing them with steel
> wool on the backside (where all the soldered connections are), but do it
> with the power energized to the board to be sure to induce electron flow.
>
>
>
I like the frying pan soldering method...
--
My boss said I was dumb and apathetic.
I said I don't know and I don't care...

Tekkie

Oscar_Lives

2006-02-22, 11:21 pm

"~^Johnny^~" <nospam@gyrogearloose.com> wrote in message
news:g4snv151egeh97s1g4m3j0ll65ngdsp9hd@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 03:20:02 GMT, "Oscar_Lives" <nospam@nospam.net>
> wrote:
>
>
> And use a strong saline solution (ferric chloride and potassium
> permanganate). And apply DOUBLE the supply voltage to the board,
> to save additional time.
>
> A quick dip in aqua regia will finish it off nicely, on the component
> side, while still energized at twice the supply voltage, of course.

Good idea! Some technicians brush on a coat of hydrofluric acid and hit it
with an 80-grit belt sander for similair results.

>
>
> CAUTION:
> Please wear a face mask and protective clothing during the entire
> process. This cleaning process is rather aggressive, and is not
> without its personal safety hazards.
>
>
> --
> -john
> wide-open at throttle dot info

Oscar_Lives

2006-02-22, 11:21 pm

"CAVHBC" <biteme@fuckoff.com> wrote in message
news:bz%Kf.34$NX4.455@eagle.america.net...
>
> "Zoomler" <jdhgu@foie4.eig> wrote in message
> news:pvjnv11cckdbb82bm9n2iead3fj9oj2ups@4ax.com...
>
> Dirt had NOTHING to do with the board going bad.
> Nothing.
> Nada
> Its no reason to suspect a damn thing...unless you are uneducated and are
> just looking to throw parts at it.
>
>
>
>
> Wow. I honestly hope that you didnt pay more than $15 for it, excluding
> shipping of course...
>
>
>
>
> Umm..yea...since this boards gonna fail faster than the old one, you did
> get TWO right?
>
>
> Its ok..we get paid for what we do, and it does not take us 3 weeks to
> figure the problem out either.

AND WE ARE NICE AND WARM TONIGHT!

>
>
>

.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com

2006-02-22, 11:21 pm

On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 02:54:31 GMT, "Oscar_Lives" <nospam@nospam.net>
wrote:

>
>"CAVHBC" <biteme@fuckoff.com> wrote in message
>news:bz%Kf.34$NX4.455@eagle.america.net...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>AND WE ARE NICE AND WARM TONIGHT!

And I have 4 friendly pussies to hang out with ......

--

Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!

http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/

.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com

2006-02-23, 12:21 am

On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 02:53:11 GMT, "Oscar_Lives" <nospam@nospam.net>
wrote:

>
>"~^Johnny^~" <nospam@gyrogearloose.com> wrote in message
>news:g4snv151egeh97s1g4m3j0ll65ngdsp9hd@4ax.com...
>
>
>Good idea! Some technicians brush on a coat of hydrofluric acid and hit it
>with an 80-grit belt sander for similair results.

You silver tongued devil, you. I know hydroflouric .....
[color=darkred]
>

--

Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!

http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/

LinkBot