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| What is the purpose of Kraft Paper on batt insulation?
The reason I'm asking is that today I finished the insulation in my office
and there were a few odd shaped cavities that I stuffed scraps of insulation
into.
That insulation did not have the brown kraft paper on it.
I don't want condensation or thermal breaks or any other surprises after the
drywall is up, so should I do anything to that exposed insulation?
BTW: I'm using Johns Manville batts, R13 3.5" - walls, and R30 10.5" -
ceiling.
| |
| Ken S. Tucker 2007-01-15, 5:25 pm |
|
Don wrote:
> What is the purpose of Kraft Paper on batt insulation?
>
> The reason I'm asking is that today I finished the insulation in my office
> and there were a few odd shaped cavities that I stuffed scraps of insulation
> into.
> That insulation did not have the brown kraft paper on it.
>
> I don't want condensation or thermal breaks or any other surprises after the
> drywall is up, so should I do anything to that exposed insulation?
>
> BTW: I'm using Johns Manville batts, R13 3.5" - walls, and R30 10.5" -
> ceiling.
Actually Don, the time I had a problem was
extreme. Daughter showers but leaves the
bath door open an inch or 2, for anyone to
use the head.
As such much humidity escaped into an
adjoined hallway.
One time, shortly after she showered, she
pointed out that a hallway light was smoking.
Well, as it turned out that fixture light was
mounted in metal box with no serious insulation
between it and the attic and on that day it was
~ -20F so the attic was cold and serious
condensation formed in the metal box, and
started shorting the electricity.
The fix I used was to make sure the box was
sufficiently insulated so major condensation
would not occur.
So I think your plan is fine.
Ken
| |
|
| "Ken S. Tucker"> wrote
> Don wrote:
>
> Actually Don, the time I had a problem was
> extreme. Daughter showers but leaves the
> bath door open an inch or 2, for anyone to
> use the head.
> As such much humidity escaped into an
> adjoined hallway.
> One time, shortly after she showered, she
> pointed out that a hallway light was smoking.
> Well, as it turned out that fixture light was
> mounted in metal box with no serious insulation
> between it and the attic and on that day it was
> ~ -20F so the attic was cold and serious
> condensation formed in the metal box, and
> started shorting the electricity.
> The fix I used was to make sure the box was
> sufficiently insulated so major condensation
> would not occur.
>
> So I think your plan is fine.
Are you saying the kraft paper is not necessary?
| |
| RicodJour 2007-01-16, 3:25 am |
| Don wrote:
> What is the purpose of Kraft Paper on batt insulation?
>
> The reason I'm asking is that today I finished the insulation in my office
> and there were a few odd shaped cavities that I stuffed scraps of insulation
> into.
> That insulation did not have the brown kraft paper on it.
>
> I don't want condensation or thermal breaks or any other surprises after the
> drywall is up, so should I do anything to that exposed insulation?
>
> BTW: I'm using Johns Manville batts, R13 3.5" - walls, and R30 10.5" -
> ceiling.
The kraft paper is part of the vapor barrier. There's some schmutz
sprayed onto the back of the paper that reduces the permeability and
bonds the fiberglass to the paper.
R
| |
| 3D Peruna 2007-01-16, 9:25 am |
| RicodJour wrote:
>
> The kraft paper is part of the vapor barrier. There's some schmutz
> sprayed onto the back of the paper that reduces the permeability and
> bonds the fiberglass to the paper.
>
Yeah...and you've seen a typical installation. Look at the seams...not
a very effective vapor barrier. Maybe, just maybe, in a good drywall
assembly with careful attention paid to the holes (electrical boxes,
chases, etc)....
| |
|
| "3D Peruna"> wrote
> RicodJour wrote:
>
> Yeah...and you've seen a typical installation. Look at the seams...not a
> very effective vapor barrier. Maybe, just maybe, in a good drywall
> assembly with careful attention paid to the holes (electrical boxes,
> chases, etc)....
Don't know how typical mine is but in my honest opinion it *looks* like
hell.
I've never done batt insulation before and though its not physically hard it
is a little demanding.
Knife blades don't last long when cutting batts and I've went through prolly
at least a dozen of them.
When the blade dulls it tends to rip the kraft, so there are lots of areas
where the batts are showing through.
I did staple all of it though, 5 (1250 count) boxes of Arrow T-50's, 1/4".
2 days of stapling has my right hand in anguish.
Today will be comprised of cleaning up the insulation and getting set up to
do the drywall.
I have to create a stable cut table and (2) 8' T-squares to support the
stuff while I get the first screw started.
Its cold as a mf right now (18 degrees) and snowing like hell.
(no Ken, I don't have shorts on today :-) )
About 30 cardinals in the front yard and they really stand out against the
white background.
Looks like a christmas card or sumfink............
| |
| Michael Bulatovich 2007-01-16, 9:25 am |
|
"3D Peruna" <wharold@weirdness.com> wrote in message
news:uq4rh.6$UP7.5@newsfe02.lga...
> RicodJour wrote:
>
>
> Yeah...and you've seen a typical installation. Look at the seams...not a
> very effective vapor barrier. Maybe, just maybe, in a good drywall
> assembly with careful attention paid to the holes (electrical boxes,
> chases, etc)....
I've never used that stuff. The temp difference/vapor pressure is too great
and the consequences too significant.
--
MichaelB
www.michaelbulatovich.ca
| |
| Bob Morrison 2007-01-16, 9:25 am |
| In a previous post Don wrote...
> Today will be comprised of cleaning up the insulation and getting set up to
> do the drywall.
>
Don:
I suggest that you cover the wall with 4 or 6 mil visqueen before you
install the GWB. This will restore the vapor barrier. You will only need
enough staples to hold the plastic in place until you put up the GWB.
Apply the plastic across the outlet boxes then make an "X" cut at the
boxes and tape the edges of the plastic to the box with duct tape or
aluminum foil insulation tape (my preferred tape for this application).
--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com
| |
| Ken S. Tucker 2007-01-16, 1:25 pm |
|
Don wrote:
> "Ken S. Tucker"> wrote
>
> Are you saying the kraft paper is not necessary?
Not sure what "Kraft paper" is. The SOP in Muskoka
is to staple plastic vapor barrier (10'x100' ~ $25)
on the interior after the insulation and electrical was
installed on walls & ceiling, taping it sealed.
There are special electrical boxes for exterior walls,
available. But I think you've already done all that.
A good vapor barrier is important of course, otherwise
the water could condense inside the walls and make
slime, rot and mold problems. You can help prevent
that with a good application of *something* on your
dry wall, paint, wallpaper...but since I never use dry-
wall (just paneling that is spec'd as a vapor barrier),
I haven't research it too much.
Humidity has a tendency to rise up, so pay real
attention to any ceiling holes you have. What can
happen is the humidity leaks through and freezes
on the insulation in the cold attic, making a block
of ice, then when it thaws, of course water drips
down.
Ken
| |
| Ken S. Tucker 2007-01-16, 1:25 pm |
|
Bob Morrison wrote:
> In a previous post Don wrote...
>
> Don:
>
> I suggest that you cover the wall with 4 or 6 mil visqueen before you
> install the GWB. This will restore the vapor barrier. You will only need
> enough staples to hold the plastic in place until you put up the GWB.
>
> Apply the plastic across the outlet boxes then make an "X" cut at the
> boxes and tape the edges of the plastic to the box with duct tape or
> aluminum foil insulation tape (my preferred tape for this application).
Agreed 100%, I like that Al tape, but being a conductor
be careful around electrical boxes, perhaps regular tape
is best.
Ken
> --
> Bob Morrison, PE, SE
> R L Morrison Engineering Co
> Structural & Civil Engineering
> Poulsbo WA
> bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com
| |
|
| I believe, in theory, that one is suppose to install the insulation
with only 2 staples (1 each side) near the top. One is then supposed
to make sure the paper extends out over the joist a bit so the
sheetrock compressing it makes a seal. That is 'supposed" to be your
vapor barrier. However, no one installs it correctly, so there ya go.
Likewise, I believe if you are using a plastic vapor barrier you can
use unbacked insulation (and no staples) if you can find it.. So Don,
if you're using a plastic vapor barrier, you should be good to go.
Welcome to the Great White North.
You should also spray any little crevices and areas around your
recepticle with insulation. There are two kinds that look about the
same but are VERY different, so be careful. The expanding is used if
you've got a small hole to fill. The non-expanding is used to fill
small holes next to recepticles, windows, doors, etc. where you worry
about the expansion pushing the item out of place. there are plenty of
windows around that don't open after someone put expanding insulation
next to them and bowed out the windows.
Finally, they used to make (don't know if they still do) a little
rubber gasket that went around the lip of the box and pushed up against
the face-plate. It was designed to stop any air flow.
Good luck with it.
Pat.
3D Peruna wrote:
> RicodJour wrote:
>
>
> Yeah...and you've seen a typical installation. Look at the seams...not
> a very effective vapor barrier. Maybe, just maybe, in a good drywall
> assembly with careful attention paid to the holes (electrical boxes,
> chases, etc)....
| |
| Pierre Levesque 2007-01-16, 5:25 pm |
|
"Don" <creative1986@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:12qnu2p185ikha8@news.supernews.com...
> What is the purpose of Kraft Paper on batt insulation?
>
> The reason I'm asking is that today I finished the insulation in my office
> and there were a few odd shaped cavities that I stuffed scraps of
> insulation into.
> That insulation did not have the brown kraft paper on it.
>
> I don't want condensation or thermal breaks or any other surprises after
> the drywall is up, so should I do anything to that exposed insulation?
>
> BTW: I'm using Johns Manville batts, R13 3.5" - walls, and R30 10.5" -
> ceiling.
I've never considered batt insulation with Kraft paper a vapor barrier
insulation. As far as I'm concerned the sole purpose of kraft papered batts
is for ease of fastening to vertical installations. In fact, kraft paper is
quite breathable. That said, it doesn't have zero vapor barrier quality but
it isn't the same as the same batts lined with plastic. Actually even JM's
website calls kraft faced batts "vapor retarder" not vapor barrier
http://tinyurl.com/2dwce7. For a proper vapor barrier I would line the
entire wall surface with a 6 mil polyethylene wrap layered horizontally top
to bottom and againt the vertical seams between the batts
| |
|
|
"Pierre Levesque" <pierrelevesqueNOSPAM@connarch.com> wrote in message
news:UFbrh.2338$dV1.234@trndny02...
>
> "Don" <creative1986@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:12qnu2p185ikha8@news.supernews.com...
>
>
> I've never considered batt insulation with Kraft paper a vapor barrier
> insulation. As far as I'm concerned the sole purpose of kraft papered
> batts is for ease of fastening to vertical installations. In fact, kraft
> paper is quite breathable. That said, it doesn't have zero vapor barrier
> quality but it isn't the same as the same batts lined with plastic.
> Actually even JM's website calls kraft faced batts "vapor retarder" not
> vapor barrier http://tinyurl.com/2dwce7. For a proper vapor barrier I
> would line the entire wall surface with a 6 mil polyethylene wrap layered
> horizontally top to bottom and againt the vertical seams between the batts
Even though the outside of the building is wrapped with Tyvek?
| |
| Bob Morrison 2007-01-16, 8:25 pm |
| In a previous post Don wrote...
> Even though the outside of the building is wrapped with Tyvek?
>
Yes. The vapor interior barrier is intended to keep room moisture from
infiltrating the insulation and reducing its effectiveness. The exterior
barrier (Tyvek) is intended to keep leaks outside the structural envelope
and to allow any moisture vapor that might make make it into the
insulation to migrate out of the building envelope.
Nothing like taking Alaska's Cold Regions Engineering Short Course to
learn a ton of stuff about cold weather construction! BTW, it is a
requirement for obtaining a license to practice in Alaska. Fortunately,
the course is taught in Seattle.
--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com
| |
| Ken S. Tucker 2007-01-16, 9:25 pm |
|
Bob Morrison wrote:
> In a previous post Don wrote...
You want your building *interior* air tight so
moist air won't flow into the walls and ceiling.
One good builder I was helping to build his
cottage was very adamant about a perfect
vapor barrier. He used cardboard to staple
his plastic VP on to the studs, so it won't
tear during installation and construction.
So tape the seams and stuff.
[color=darkred]
> Yes. The vapor interior barrier is intended to keep room moisture from
> infiltrating the insulation and reducing its effectiveness. The exterior
> barrier (Tyvek) is intended to keep leaks outside the structural envelope
> and to allow any moisture vapor that might make make it into the
> insulation to migrate out of the building envelope.
>
> Nothing like taking Alaska's Cold Regions Engineering Short Course to
> learn a ton of stuff about cold weather construction! BTW, it is a
> requirement for obtaining a license to practice in Alaska. Fortunately,
> the course is taught in Seattle.
LOL, a DIYer couple in Muskoka built a
building and put the VP on the outside,
thinking to keep the cold air out. 5 years
later the entire wall had to be replaced.
Ken
> Bob Morrison, PE, SE
> R L Morrison Engineering Co
> Structural & Civil Engineering
> Poulsbo WA
> bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com
| |
| 3D Peruna 2007-01-16, 9:25 pm |
| Ken S. Tucker wrote:
> Bob Morrison wrote:
>
> You want your building *interior* air tight so
> moist air won't flow into the walls and ceiling.
> One good builder I was helping to build his
> cottage was very adamant about a perfect
> vapor barrier. He used cardboard to staple
> his plastic VP on to the studs, so it won't
> tear during installation and construction.
> So tape the seams and stuff.
Here's an interesting article (gotta pay for the actual thing) -
http://jen.sagepub.com/cgi/content/abstract/28/3/205.
The idea is to do away with the typical "vapor barrier" and go to a more
robust vapor permeable wall system.
| |
| Pierre Levesque 2007-01-17, 9:25 am |
|
"Bob Morrison" <SpamFighter@junk.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.201715042f6f3060989d2c@news.west.earthlink.net...
> In a previous post Don wrote...
>
> Yes. The vapor interior barrier is intended to keep room moisture from
> infiltrating the insulation and reducing its effectiveness. The exterior
> barrier (Tyvek) is intended to keep leaks outside the structural envelope
> and to allow any moisture vapor that might make make it into the
> insulation to migrate out of the building envelope.
>
> Nothing like taking Alaska's Cold Regions Engineering Short Course to
> learn a ton of stuff about cold weather construction! BTW, it is a
> requirement for obtaining a license to practice in Alaska. Fortunately,
> the course is taught in Seattle.
>
> --
> Bob Morrison, PE, SE
> R L Morrison Engineering Co
> Structural & Civil Engineering
> Poulsbo WA
> bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com
Took the 'almost' exact words right out of my mouth Bob... thx...
| |
| Ken S. Tucker 2007-01-17, 9:25 am |
|
3D Peruna wrote:
> Ken S. Tucker wrote:
>
> Here's an interesting article (gotta pay for the actual thing) -
> http://jen.sagepub.com/cgi/content/abstract/28/3/205.
> The idea is to do away with the typical "vapor barrier" and go to a more
> robust vapor permeable wall system.
By coincidence the builder I mentioned above had
a house in Regina (the article you quoted being
from U of Sask) that was insulated with sawdust!
The article you quote is a physics problem, ugh.
Design for 70F with 60% humidity inside, -30F
x% humidity outside, 100F diff, chilling but that's
a fair spec.
By allowing humidity through the wall, then in
4-6" that humid air must drop 100F degrees,
somewhere it will condense inside the wall and
freeze before escaping.
Half way through the wall, the temperature is
about the average of the indoor and outdoor,
being 70F-50F =20F, then 20F-50F = -30F.
So a permeable wall will have ice in it by
1/2 way, (20F). The theory you quote suggests
that ice will sublime and evaporate, well
maybe, but writing a spec for such a wall
would be a nightmare!
For fun, consider the freezing itself changes
the permeabilty of the wall, and that in turn
changes the R-value, look at those loops and
hoops. Would you bet the farm (house) on it?
Ken
| |
|
| "Bob Morrison"> wrote
> In a previous post Don wrote...
>
> Yes. The vapor interior barrier is intended to keep room moisture from
> infiltrating the insulation and reducing its effectiveness.
Ahhhh. Gotcha.
Thanks Bob!
| |
| Michael Bulatovich 2007-01-17, 9:25 am |
|
"Ken S. Tucker" <dynamics@vianet.on.ca> wrote in message
news:1169007042.277273.43790@11g2000cwr.googlegroups.com...
>
> 3D Peruna wrote:
>
> By coincidence the builder I mentioned above had
> a house in Regina (the article you quoted being
> from U of Sask) that was insulated with sawdust!
>
> The article you quote is a physics problem, ugh.
> Design for 70F with 60% humidity inside, -30F
> x% humidity outside, 100F diff, chilling but that's
> a fair spec.
>
> By allowing humidity through the wall, then in
> 4-6" that humid air must drop 100F degrees,
> somewhere it will condense inside the wall and
> freeze before escaping.
> Half way through the wall, the temperature is
> about the average of the indoor and outdoor,
> being 70F-50F =20F, then 20F-50F = -30F.
>
> So a permeable wall will have ice in it by
> 1/2 way, (20F). The theory you quote suggests
> that ice will sublime
How long is that gonna take? You'd want a lot of air movement in the
assembly if you're hanging your hat on sublimation....which reminds me of
Freud...which reminds me of his characterization of the development of his
theories as a journey "from error to error"...
which reminds me of building technology....
--
MichaelB
www.michaelbulatovich.ca
| |
| 3D Peruna 2007-01-17, 9:25 am |
| Ken S. Tucker wrote:
> The article you quote is a physics problem, ugh.
> Design for 70F with 60% humidity inside, -30F
> x% humidity outside, 100F diff, chilling but that's
> a fair spec.
>
> By allowing humidity through the wall, then in
> 4-6" that humid air must drop 100F degrees,
> somewhere it will condense inside the wall and
> freeze before escaping.
> Half way through the wall, the temperature is
> about the average of the indoor and outdoor,
> being 70F-50F =20F, then 20F-50F = -30F.
>
> So a permeable wall will have ice in it by
> 1/2 way, (20F). The theory you quote suggests
> that ice will sublime and evaporate, well
> maybe, but writing a spec for such a wall
> would be a nightmare!
> For fun, consider the freezing itself changes
> the permeabilty of the wall, and that in turn
> changes the R-value, look at those loops and
> hoops. Would you bet the farm (house) on it?
It depends on the AMOUNT of permeability. The Building Science guys
figure than a 1" square hole in gyp. bd., without a vapor barrier,
allows 30 quarts (google the metric conversion yourself) of water to
pass through in a typical cold-climate heating season. 30 quarts is
more than the wall can effectively deal with. However, the vapor
permeability of 1/2" drywall is 1/3 of a quart. The wall system can
deal with 1/3 of a quart of water. It cannot deal with 30 quarts.
The idea of a "robust" vapor permeable wall assembly is that it SLOWLY
allows for vapor to diffuse from the inside or the outside. Slow and
small amounts are the key, not an interior plastic condom that is very
difficult to get right.
For instance, in my climate, we have 3-4 months of the year where the
vapor barrier needs to be on the inside wall. We also have 2-3 months
of the year where it needs to be on the OUTSIDE of the wall (if you use
air conditioning). Kind of a pain to design for...
Of course, the other key, as it is in any wall system, is attention to
any hole in the wall...electrical boxes, chases, etc.
As you know, for water vapor to move, it needs a pressure difference and
a pathway. First, eliminate the pathways and you'll eliminate most of
the potential for condensation (and its attendant problems). Second,
provide a system that allows for diffusion, over time, to the inside or
outside. This way any moisture, from the inside or out, has the ability
to dry out.
I'm not hanging my hat on the wall system alone, but good flashing,
draining and careful attention to potential pathways from the inside to
the outside before drywall...
P
| |
| RicodJour 2007-01-17, 9:25 pm |
| Don wrote:
>
> Don't know how typical mine is but in my honest opinion it *looks* like
> hell.
> I've never done batt insulation before and though its not physically hard it
> is a little demanding.
> Knife blades don't last long when cutting batts and I've went through prolly
> at least a dozen of them.
> When the blade dulls it tends to rip the kraft, so there are lots of areas
> where the batts are showing through.
> I did staple all of it though, 5 (1250 count) boxes of Arrow T-50's, 1/4".
> 2 days of stapling has my right hand in anguish.
Don, you have to start asking these questions _before_ you do the work.
From your description it sounds like you used a regular stapler - a
hammer stapler would have worked far faster and not beat up your right
hand so much. Odd, really. I would have thought all those years
choking the chicken would have beefed up your forearm.  ~
> Today will be comprised of cleaning up the insulation and getting set up to
> do the drywall.
> I have to create a stable cut table and (2) 8' T-squares to support the
> stuff while I get the first screw started.
Why would you want to use a table for cutting drywall? You'd have to
handle the sheets twice - once putting them up on the table and another
lifting them off the table to install them. Seems like a lot of extra
work. I find leaning the boards up against the wall and cutting them
standing up works well, or just cutting them from the stack on the
floor. Of course you should be using one of those perforated 24"
T-squares for drywall, they make ripping a, ahem, snap.
http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-RTS24...iews/B0000302SW
R
| |
| Michael Bulatovich 2007-01-18, 9:25 am |
|
"RicodJour" <ricodjour@worldemail.com> wrote in message
news:1169090641.756340.62830@51g2000cwl.googlegroups.com...
> Don wrote:
>
> Don, you have to start asking these questions _before_ you do the work.
> From your description it sounds like you used a regular stapler - a
> hammer stapler would have worked far faster and not beat up your right
> hand so much. Odd, really. I would have thought all those years
> choking the chicken would have beefed up your forearm. ~
>
>
> Why would you want to use a table for cutting drywall? You'd have to
> handle the sheets twice - once putting them up on the table and another
> lifting them off the table to install them. Seems like a lot of extra
> work. I find leaning the boards up against the wall and cutting them
> standing up works well, or just cutting them from the stack on the
> floor. Of course you should be using one of those perforated 24"
> T-squares for drywall, they make ripping a, ahem, snap.
> http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-RTS24...iews/B0000302SW
>
What he said.
| |
| Bob Morrison 2007-01-18, 1:25 pm |
| In a previous post RicodJour wrote...
> Why would you want to use a table for cutting drywall? You'd have to
> handle the sheets twice - once putting them up on the table and another
> lifting them off the table to install them. Seems like a lot of extra
> work. I find leaning the boards up against the wall and cutting them
> standing up works well, or just cutting them from the stack on the
> floor. Of course you should be using one of those perforated 24"
> T-squares for drywall, they make ripping a, ahem, snap.
>
I personally prefer the use of a 48-inch drywall square. Lean the sheets
against the wall, put the square on top and cut down to the floor. Fold
the sheet, cut the back paper and you're done.
For rip cuts mark the sheet, put the square on one end, cut to the middle,
flip the square over to the other end, finish the cut.
--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com
| |
|
| "Bob Morrison"> wrote
> I personally prefer the use of a 48-inch drywall square. Lean the sheets
> against the wall, put the square on top and cut down to the floor. Fold
> the sheet, cut the back paper and you're done.
>
> For rip cuts mark the sheet, put the square on one end, cut to the middle,
> flip the square over to the other end, finish the cut.
Thats exactly what I'll be doing, starting in about 30 mins.
I have a Johnson adjustable 48" T-square.
Previously I thought I'd lay the sheets on a table and cut the electrical
box holes with a knife.
But now I think I'll screw the ceiling sheets up and then use my Ryobi
speedsaw to cut the holes around the boxes.
Its like one of those Roto-zip things but its 18volt cordless.
| |
|
| "RicodJour"> wrote
> Don wrote:
>
> Don, you have to start asking these questions _before_ you do the work.
> From your description it sounds like you used a regular stapler - a
> hammer stapler would have worked far faster and not beat up your right
> hand so much. Odd, really. I would have thought all those years
> choking the chicken would have beefed up your forearm. ~
I used a Stanley electric stapler.
Worked pretty good but I wish it could hold more than 1 stick of staples and
occaisionally it had a tendency to shoot on full automatic, blowing 5-10
staples out before I knew what was goin on.
Just because I've been married forever doesn't mean I'm THAT addicted to
choken that chicken! heh
| |
|
|
> Even though the outside of the building is wrapped with Tyvek?
FYI, a while back I saw an ad for a wrap that used Kevlar in the Tyvek
type wrap. It was an "urban" wrap designed to stop bullets. How's
that for a scary thought.
<and I kept thinking "and how do you nail it up?????>
| |
|
| BTW, did you ever get your "air standing on end" problem of lack of
humidity fixed? Any static shocks yet? You ain't in Kansas any more.
Don wrote:
> What is the purpose of Kraft Paper on batt insulation?
>
> The reason I'm asking is that today I finished the insulation in my office
> and there were a few odd shaped cavities that I stuffed scraps of insulation
> into.
> That insulation did not have the brown kraft paper on it.
>
> I don't want condensation or thermal breaks or any other surprises after the
> drywall is up, so should I do anything to that exposed insulation?
>
> BTW: I'm using Johns Manville batts, R13 3.5" - walls, and R30 10.5" -
> ceiling.
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| "Pat"> wrote
> BTW, did you ever get your "air standing on end" problem of lack of
> humidity fixed? Any static shocks yet? You ain't in Kansas any more.
The humidty has sort of leveled out.
Its still a little bit of an issue but not as bad as a month or 2 ago.
Grocery stores are the worst place for shocks, in the frozen food section.
I have to touch the door and pull my finger away quickly and that somehow
dispurses the static.
Still catches me off guard every now and then.
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| "Pat"> wrote
> FYI, a while back I saw an ad for a wrap that used Kevlar in the Tyvek
> type wrap. It was an "urban" wrap designed to stop bullets. How's
> that for a scary thought.
>
> <and I kept thinking "and how do you nail it up?????>
Liquid Nails?
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