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Home > Archive > Lawn and Garden forum > August 2006 > Tree Root Problem
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| I've got tree roots from a maple tree growing dangerously close to a
concrete slab and was hoping someone might have an effective way of
dealing with an issue like this short of swinging the axe. Chainsaws
and grinders in my experience haven't been too effective. The link
below shows the problem and thanks very much for any ideas.
http://home.nctv.com/ajns/roots.jpg
Chris
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| > I've got tree roots from a maple tree growing dangerously close to a
> concrete slab and was hoping someone might have an effective way of
> dealing with an issue like this short of swinging the axe. Chainsaws
> and grinders in my experience haven't been too effective. The link
> below shows the problem and thanks very much for any ideas.
>
> http://home.nctv.com/ajns/roots.jpg
>
Go to a local metal shop and order some plate aluminum or stainless steel.
Make it 12" "deep" by around 3-4' long and manually insert them right up
against the concrete and even with the top of the dirt. Roots can't get
past solid metal.
Not really frugal cost-wise if you're not a long term resident, but just
about permanent.
I have one of these at my home now if you want me to shoot a photo...
Joe in Northern, NJ - V#8013-R
Currently Riding The "Mother Ship"
Ride a motorcycle in or near NJ?
http://tinyurl.com/5apkg
http://www.youthelate.com
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| BradMM 2006-08-12, 8:25 pm |
|
Joe skrev:
> Go to a local metal shop and order some plate aluminum or stainless steel.
You don't need metal plates. Fabric root barrier is used now to prevent
roots from growing under sidewalks but the problem I see is installing
either.
Here's one: http://www.geo-synthetics.com/Bioba...oot_Fabrics.asp
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| Pavel314 2006-08-12, 8:25 pm |
|
"Joe" <spamtrapverizonnewsgroups@yunx.com> wrote in message
news:1zsDg.3225$5M.1851@trnddc02...
>
> Go to a local metal shop and order some plate aluminum or stainless steel.
> Make it 12" "deep" by around 3-4' long and manually insert them right up
> against the concrete and even with the top of the dirt. Roots can't get
> past solid metal.
Years ago I heard that plants can't stand copper. If that's true, maybe some
copper tubes strategically placed will turn the roots away from the slab.
Does anyone know if this really works?
Paul
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| All of the above solutions were considered, and are good, but in my
similiar situation, I choose to redo the patio because it was also the
finished edge of a new addition to the house. I dug a 12" wide by 15"
concrete footing trench along the perimeter of the patio, included
rebar, and I placed foam board in the trench for a vapor seal along the
face, prior to pouring in the concrete. Tree roots seek out water, and
won't penetrate surfaces where there is none. For this work you'll
have to cut tree roots, which may not be so bad because it appears that
the surface roots you have may be seeking after shallow irrigation
water. I'd irrigate infrequently, but when you do deep water the tree
roots to keep them in the ground.
Pavel314 wrote:
> "Joe" <spamtrapverizonnewsgroups@yunx.com> wrote in message
> news:1zsDg.3225$5M.1851@trnddc02...
>
> Years ago I heard that plants can't stand copper. If that's true, maybe some
> copper tubes strategically placed will turn the roots away from the slab.
> Does anyone know if this really works?
>
> Paul
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| Italian 2006-08-13, 3:25 am |
| I seem to be having a problem posting so if this is posted with my
other post sorry but I don think the first one went through.
You know chris this is probably the number 1 reason we are called out
for diveway bids and the fact of the matter is that the fix is very
simply and only needs to be done once a year. Go purchase what is
called a straight edge spade, or long spade picture if you will a flat
shovel that is about 7-8" wide by maybe 13-15" long with a short
handle. Simply run this along the edge of the slab atleast halfway down
more if you can and this cuts off any feeler roots that are heading
twards trouble..once a year is all you need to do it .....If you
already have larger roots you really have no choice but to dig next to
the slab and but them off after doing this do what I have explained
above. We have replaced dozens and dozens of driveways that have been
raised up by roots and we allways cut the roots from 6-12" back from
the slab and instruct the customer as I have above...havent had a call
back yet if you have any doubts talk to a arborist about root growth
patterns and he will tell you this is an effective controll..
cover wrote:
> I've got tree roots from a maple tree growing dangerously close to a
> concrete slab and was hoping someone might have an effective way of
> dealing with an issue like this short of swinging the axe. Chainsaws
> and grinders in my experience haven't been too effective. The link
> below shows the problem and thanks very much for any ideas.
>
> http://home.nctv.com/ajns/roots.jpg
>
> Chris
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| Al Bundy 2006-08-13, 3:25 am |
| cover <coverlandNOSPAM914@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:rhhsd213no3k7p3rt5kvc4e6b0s4ok1lco@4ax.com:
> dangerously close
dangerously close? Those look like fairly mature roots, many, right at the
edge. The part of each of those roots that thins to needle size is well
under the slab already is my guess.
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| Al Bundy 2006-08-13, 3:25 am |
| "Pavel314" <Pavel314@NOSPAM.comcast.net> wrote in
news:1pWdnQP_38Mj_kPZnZ2dnUVZ_qSdnZ2d@comcast.com:
>
> "Joe" <spamtrapverizonnewsgroups@yunx.com> wrote in message
> news:1zsDg.3225$5M.1851@trnddc02...
>
> Years ago I heard that plants can't stand copper. If that's true,
> maybe some copper tubes strategically placed will turn the roots away
> from the slab. Does anyone know if this really works?
>
> Paul
>
>
Well, alge is a plant right? Here's one case where you kill a plant with
copper. The dark/black alge that grows on roof shingles in more humid
areas.
http://www.askthebuilder.com/printe..._Shingles.shtml
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| nospambob@vcoms.net 2006-08-13, 9:25 am |
| Root Kill for treating roots in sewer drains is a copper compound. I
used that brand name product for several years semi-annually instead
of calling roto rooter.
On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 19:27:07 -0400, "Pavel314"
<Pavel314@NOSPAM.comcast.net> wrote:
>
>"Joe" <spamtrapverizonnewsgroups@yunx.com> wrote in message
>news:1zsDg.3225$5M.1851@trnddc02...
>
>Years ago I heard that plants can't stand copper. If that's true, maybe some
>copper tubes strategically placed will turn the roots away from the slab.
>Does anyone know if this really works?
>
>Paul
>
| |
|
| "cover" <coverlandNOSPAM914@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:rhhsd213no3k7p3rt5kvc4e6b0s4ok1lco@4ax.com...
> I've got tree roots from a maple tree growing dangerously close to a
> concrete slab and was hoping someone might have an effective way of
> dealing with an issue like this short of swinging the axe. Chainsaws
> and grinders in my experience haven't been too effective. The link
> below shows the problem and thanks very much for any ideas.
>
> http://home.nctv.com/ajns/roots.jpg
>
> Chris
Have you considered using a trench digger for burying cables? A trench
digger can make a trench about 3 inches wide and 12 to 18 inches deep quite
easily. Put whatever barrier you want in there and back fill.
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| hallerb@aol.com 2006-08-13, 9:25 am |
|
nospambob@vcoms.net wrote:
> Root Kill for treating roots in sewer drains is a copper compound. I
> used that brand name product for several years semi-annually instead
> of calling roto rooter.
>
Rock salt down the sewer is just as effective at a fraction of the
price, works great as long as your underground piping isnt steel, which
very few are.
Most bad lines are terracotta pipe, the trees love all those joints
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| trader4@optonline.net 2006-08-13, 1:25 pm |
|
Ron P wrote:
> "cover" <coverlandNOSPAM914@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:rhhsd213no3k7p3rt5kvc4e6b0s4ok1lco@4ax.com...
> Have you considered using a trench digger for burying cables? A trench
> digger can make a trench about 3 inches wide and 12 to 18 inches deep quite
> easily. Put whatever barrier you want in there and back fill.
Here we have the classic example of a common problem with certain trees
that have surface roots. The roots take up moisture and nutrients
that prevent grass or other plants from growing. And they are more
likely to cause problems with sidewalks than other trees that have
deeper roots. Norway maples are well known for this problem.
>From the pic, it looks like the roots are already under the slab.
It's also unclear how far from the tree trunk the slab is. Obviously,
the farther away, the better the chance of being able to trench and
install a steel barrier without killing the tree. If you're willing to
do that and don't need anything to grow around the tree, it should
work. If not, the other solution is removing the tree and replacing
it with one that doesn't have surface root problems and is located
farther away.
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| Webb 413 2006-08-13, 1:25 pm |
| Copper will definitely kill tree roots...
and they do make copper nails in different sizes, from roofing nails to
very large ones... check with local hardware store that might be able to
order them for you.
.....
Also something called ""Copper Sulfate"" crystals will also kill tree
roots..
Hope this helps.... ~ Webb ~
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|
| Many thanks to all of you for your replies. Appreciate that very
much. The tree is a fairly healthy size maple tree and the trunk is
approximately 15' from the slab. A trencher just might be the easiest
approach. Any thoughts on using an axe versus some sort of root saw
if a person doesn't want to bring great harm to the tree. It's fairly
mature and I hate to damage it too significantly but at the same time,
have property to protect.
Chris
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| Eggs Zachtly 2006-08-13, 5:29 pm |
| cover said:
> Many thanks to all of you for your replies. Appreciate that very
> much. The tree is a fairly healthy size maple tree and the trunk is
> approximately 15' from the slab. A trencher just might be the easiest
> approach. Any thoughts on using an axe versus some sort of root saw
> if a person doesn't want to bring great harm to the tree. It's fairly
> mature and I hate to damage it too significantly but at the same time,
> have property to protect.
>
It was a poor choice of a tree to plant so close to a sidewalk (or a poor
choice for a sidewalk location, as it wasn't specified which came first).
In either case, maple roots grow quite horizontally. Severing the roots,
will most likely damage the tree beyond recoverability, or will certainly
disfigure it, probably in a short time.
--
Eggs
-Half the people you know are below average.
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| The Real Bev 2006-08-13, 5:29 pm |
| Eggs Zachtly wrote:
> cover said:
>
>
> It was a poor choice of a tree to plant so close to a sidewalk (or a poor
> choice for a sidewalk location, as it wasn't specified which came first).
> In either case, maple roots grow quite horizontally. Severing the roots,
> will most likely damage the tree beyond recoverability, or will certainly
> disfigure it, probably in a short time.
Or not. I planted an ash tree close to the sidewalk (over the former
cesspool -- I figured it would send its roots straight down into the
muck; I was wrong), and when the city people came through fixing
sidewalks maybe 10 years ago they whacked off the roots about a foot
from the sidewalk and put down some kind of root barrier. Damn tree
gets cut back to a 15-foot stump every once in a while but it doesn't
seem to have hurt it.
Check with an arborist. Maples are frequently used for bonsai, so they
can't be too delicate.
--
Cheers, Bev
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
"Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey
and car keys to teenage boys." -- P.J. O'Rourke
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| Eggs Zachtly 2006-08-13, 8:25 pm |
| The Real Bev said:
> Eggs Zachtly wrote:
>
>
> Or not. I planted an ash tree close to the sidewalk (over the former
> cesspool -- I figured it would send its roots straight down into the
> muck; I was wrong), and when the city people came through fixing
> sidewalks maybe 10 years ago they whacked off the roots about a foot
> from the sidewalk and put down some kind of root barrier.
As with the OP, that's a poor choice of a tree to put near a hardscape
structure, but then you know that now, eh? I'll bet you research the next
tree you plant, a little better. =)
And, I would *never* let a "city worker" touch a tree on my property. A
good rule of thumb is don't plant things in, or near, a right-of-way or
utility easement. Sooner or later, you're going to lose what you planted.
> Damn tree
> gets cut back to a 15-foot stump every once in a while but it doesn't
> seem to have hurt it.
That's actually about the worst thing you can do to a tree. Don't belive
me? As an arborist.
>
> Check with an arborist. Maples are frequently used for bonsai, so they
> can't be too delicate.
They're trained as bonsai from the beginning. They don't mature, and then
have their roots severed. There's a HUGE difference.
--
Eggs
Crime doesn't pay... does that mean my job is a crime?
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| nospambob@vcoms.net 2006-08-14, 9:25 am |
| Our softener used salt and the slurry discharged in the main line
didn't stop the roots. Root Kill package was about $5.00 and would be
used in about 1.5 years. I didn't consider it pricey.
On 13 Aug 2006 06:47:34 -0700, "hallerb@aol.com" <hallerb@aol.com>
wrote:
>
>nospambob@vcoms.net wrote:
>
>Rock salt down the sewer is just as effective at a fraction of the
>price, works great as long as your underground piping isnt steel, which
>very few are.
>
>Most bad lines are terracotta pipe, the trees love all those joints
| |
|
| I wondered how something like that might work (a diversionary concept
to draw the roots away from the slab). In the experience of those of
you who have cut these roots, was an axe the best approach?
On 13 Aug 2006 19:33:21 -0700, "Alan" <atufft@gmail.com> wrote:
[color=darkred]
>15' from the slab? That's not too close. Ask an arborist to be sure,
>but a clean cut along one side of the tree may be OK. At that distance
>from the trunk, regardless of tree, one foot or so down into the soil
>won't cut the life of an otherwise healthy tree. Our Magnolia, a tree
>that doens't mind having it's roots pruned, is closer to the slab than
>that and we cut plenty of roots any which way we could before trenching
>in the patio edge. Then we put a used brick patio right up to the
>trunk on one side. The tree seems to be doing pretty well this summer
>of incredible heat. In our case, we replaced the slab patio
>altogether. Outside the foundation barrier footer and patio edge, I
>cut the roots back and down a couple of feet and gently slope toward
>the trunk, trying to avoid major roots as I got closer to the tree. I
>then filled in a few yards of pea gravel and a drain pipe system to
>draw the patio water away to a deep dry well well away from the patio.
>I layered soil fabric over the pea grave, some road base, tamped into
>the slope I wanted, and then puzzled in the used brick that I had
>accumulated over the previous two years (It's amazing what amounts of
>brick is tossed by the roadside in places). I broomed sand into the
>cracks between bricks that weren't spaced. Some people recommended
>mixing the sand with some portland cement, but I didn't want the grey
>look this gives to the brick. If the base is solid, cement isn't
>necessary. Along the lawn edge, I put in flush some old 8x8 redwood
>railroad ties, but treated ties are easier to find in most places.
>This winter the patio drained well enough, the tree seems pretty happy,
>the excellent underground drainage of the pea gravel should discourage
>larger tree roots from forming there for awhile.
>
>
>John Lawrence wrote:
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| On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 12:46:44 -0400, web413_1@webtv.net (Webb 413)
wrote:
>Copper will definitely kill tree roots...
>and they do make copper nails in different sizes, from roofing nails to
>very large ones... check with local hardware store that might be able to
>order them for you.
>....
>Also something called ""Copper Sulfate"" crystals will also kill tree
>roots..
>Hope this helps.... ~ Webb ~
Wonder how it would work to trench the area and pour this stuff
directly into the trench as a barrier. Assume maybe that's what
you're talking about ???
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| On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 09:17:54 -0400, "Ron P" <nospam@kwic.com> wrote:
>Have you considered using a trench digger for burying cables? A trench
>digger can make a trench about 3 inches wide and 12 to 18 inches deep quite
>easily. Put whatever barrier you want in there and back fill.
What does one of these trenchers do when they encounter roots, Ron?
(kick up, cut through ???) thanks
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| Stubby 2006-08-14, 1:25 pm |
|
cover wrote:
> I wondered how something like that might work (a diversionary concept
> to draw the roots away from the slab). In the experience of those of
> you who have cut these roots, was an axe the best approach?
>
Don't try a chainsaw. The blade will last only about 15 seconds until
it is totally dull. That happens even if the dirt is dug out fairly
well. All it takes is a momentary touch to kill the blade.
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| On Mon, 14 Aug 2006 11:05:34 -0400, Stubby
<William.Plummer-NOSPAM-@alum.mit.edu> wrote:
>Don't try a chainsaw. The blade will last only about 15 seconds until
>it is totally dull. That happens even if the dirt is dug out fairly
>well. All it takes is a momentary touch to kill the blade.
Yeah, I was thinking about that one too where my chainsaw is
concerned. Another killer incidentally is railroad ties. :-) I
was thinking about using an axe (though they can be spooky devils to
work with).
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| Artemis 2006-08-15, 8:25 pm |
| cover wrote:
> Many thanks to all of you for your replies. Appreciate that very
> much. The tree is a fairly healthy size maple tree and the trunk is
> approximately 15' from the slab. A trencher just might be the easiest
> approach. Any thoughts on using an axe versus some sort of root saw
> if a person doesn't want to bring great harm to the tree. It's fairly
> mature and I hate to damage it too significantly but at the same time,
> have property to protect.
>
If you have a sawzall, you can buy a pruning blade for about $6. They
are about 12-15" long and will go through dirt and roots like butter. I
used one to cut the roots off a stump so I could pull it up and it was
the easiest stump I have ever removed.
--
Art
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| Artemis 2006-08-15, 8:25 pm |
| cover wrote:
>
> What does one of these trenchers do when they encounter roots, Ron?
> (kick up, cut through ???) thanks
You'll see some wood chips in the dirt it spits out. Other than that you
don't even notice there's a root there.
--
Art
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|
| Guess it depends on size of root, and how sharp your trencher is. I cut
through allot of roots, except for some big ones. Some knotted up roots it
will not get through.
I used the walk behind. Maybe the one you sit on has less of a problem.
--
remove one of the @'s unless you are a spammer.
"cover" <coverlandNOSPAM914@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:b711e25thsqflr4943auvuohvqgc0klsbi@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 09:17:54 -0400, "Ron P" <nospam@kwic.com> wrote:
>
> What does one of these trenchers do when they encounter roots, Ron?
> (kick up, cut through ???) thanks
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