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Home > Archive > Tools repair and advice > January 2006 > Re: Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
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Re: Which has the better cordless 18v. drill: Bosch or Hitachi
|
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| DonkeyHody 2005-12-29, 10:21 am |
|
KMoiarty wrote:
> Just checked out the Panasonic web site. First thing that struck me were
> the prices! $510 for the top cordless drill model (15.6V Multi Drill &
> Driver with 1/2" Keyless Chuck). As you say, all nice and compact. But the
> high price made me think that Panasonic tools must be an elite brand. Then
> checked out prices for these very same Panasonic models at several online
> retail tool vendor sites, where I found the prices to be much more in line
> with the competition. For example only $299 (virtually half the price) for
> the above model at Tool Authority
> (http://www.toolauthority.com/manufacturers.php?MID=21). One observation
> though, in general the Panasonic cordless driver lineup seems to offer
> somewhat less torque than competition such as Hitachi or Bosch drivers, even
> in models where the voltages are the same. But I guess the extra compact
> design of the Panasonic drivers I guess could very well account for this.
>
> BTW, another question I have just came to mind: what is the
> significance of "Ah" (e.g. 2.0 Ah, 2.5 Ah, 3.0 Ah, 3.5 Ah, and so on)
> rating of a cordless tool's battery-capacity? Up til now I had just assumed
> this referred to amperage-per-hour output (which, like the amperage rating
> of a corded tool, if multiplied by the voltage [e.g 12. for 12v. cordless
> models, between 110 and 120 for all corded models] yields maximum energy
> output [or consumption, respectively] per hour). But I'd like to somehow
> find out for certain from someone if I am on the right track in this or
> not... Because if this is true how can the most powerful cordless tool
> possibly keep pace with an average corded one which has far higher, both,
> amp and voltage numbers? Thanks.
>
Ken,
You are right that amp-hours is a measure of battery capacity. But
it's amps X hours instead of amps per hour. So, a 2 amp-hour battery
will deliver 2 amps for 1 hour or 1 amp for 2 hours (at its rated
voltage). Amp-hours gives you a measure of run-time, but I think it's
irrelevant to most of us. That's because, unless your drill is in
continuous use at high load, your second battery will charge long
before your first runs down. I guess if you have to climb down off a
ladder every time you need to change batteries, more amp-hours would
get to be more important.
I'm on my 5th cordless drill and currently own three that work. Of all
my tools, I consider a cordless drill to be the most indispensable. I
use one for almost every single project around the house or in the
shop.
However . . .before you drop three hundred bucks on a cordless drill,
consider this: Batteries have a maximum life of about 5-7 years or so,
even with light use. Unless you are using the thing every day, your
batteries will die long before you wear out the tool. The price of two
replacement batteries is usually about 2/3 the price of the whole kit
with drill, batteries and charger. So, a cordless drill is a somewhat
disposable item, unlike its corded cousin.
For $120 or so, you can buy a top quality 12 volt drill from your
favorite manufacturer. Forget the specs, buy the one that feels best
in your hand. Then spend another $100 or so for a good corded drill
for those very rare occasions when your cordless just isn't up to the
task. You'll pass the corded drill down to your grandchildren, and you
have less than half the money tied up in disposables.
Some people just like to have the "best" of whatever they own. I'm one
of those too. But I've come to the conclusion that chasing the "best"
in cordless is just too expensive.
Your mileage may vary
DonkeyHody
"Give a hungry man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach him to fish
.. . . and he will sit in a boat and drink beer all day."
| |
| Paul Stewart 2005-12-29, 11:21 am |
| Ken,
Listen to DonkeyHody, best advice here.
I did what he talks about only I'll go one better, buy a top quality corded
drill at a used tool store, I got a Milwaukee 1/2" corded hole shooter for
60 bucks at a used tool store and I found a Dewalt 3/8" 14.4 volt cordelss
at the local home center one day for 100 bucks with two batteries/charger.
Total investment 160 bucks,
A used Milwaukee (corded) drill is a good investment, these things are like
tanks, they'll outlive our kids kids.
My two cents,
Paul
"DonkeyHody" <spammetts@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:1135865467.653102.30170@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
> KMoiarty wrote:
> Ken,
> You are right that amp-hours is a measure of battery capacity. But
> it's amps X hours instead of amps per hour. So, a 2 amp-hour battery
> will deliver 2 amps for 1 hour or 1 amp for 2 hours (at its rated
> voltage). Amp-hours gives you a measure of run-time, but I think it's
> irrelevant to most of us. That's because, unless your drill is in
> continuous use at high load, your second battery will charge long
> before your first runs down. I guess if you have to climb down off a
> ladder every time you need to change batteries, more amp-hours would
> get to be more important.
>
> I'm on my 5th cordless drill and currently own three that work. Of all
> my tools, I consider a cordless drill to be the most indispensable. I
> use one for almost every single project around the house or in the
> shop.
>
> However . . .before you drop three hundred bucks on a cordless drill,
> consider this: Batteries have a maximum life of about 5-7 years or so,
> even with light use. Unless you are using the thing every day, your
> batteries will die long before you wear out the tool. The price of two
> replacement batteries is usually about 2/3 the price of the whole kit
> with drill, batteries and charger. So, a cordless drill is a somewhat
> disposable item, unlike its corded cousin.
>
> For $120 or so, you can buy a top quality 12 volt drill from your
> favorite manufacturer. Forget the specs, buy the one that feels best
> in your hand. Then spend another $100 or so for a good corded drill
> for those very rare occasions when your cordless just isn't up to the
> task. You'll pass the corded drill down to your grandchildren, and you
> have less than half the money tied up in disposables.
>
> Some people just like to have the "best" of whatever they own. I'm one
> of those too. But I've come to the conclusion that chasing the "best"
> in cordless is just too expensive.
>
> Your mileage may vary
>
> DonkeyHody
> "Give a hungry man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach him to fish
> . . . and he will sit in a boat and drink beer all day."
>
| |
| LQQK@mi.sig 2005-12-29, 5:21 pm |
| On 29 Dec 2005 06:11:07 -0800, "DonkeyHody" <spammetts@bellsouth.net>
wrote:
>However . . .before you drop three hundred bucks on a cordless drill,
>consider this: Batteries have a maximum life of about 5-7 years or so,
>even with light use. Unless you are using the thing every day, your
>batteries will die long before you wear out the tool. The price of two
>replacement batteries is usually about 2/3 the price of the whole kit
>with drill, batteries and charger. So, a cordless drill is a somewhat
>disposable item, unlike its corded cousin.
I have got a couple of drills, both Ni-cad and I intend to rebuild the
battery pack. Easily done, just buy the rightnumber of batteries and
wire them in series in teh pack. I presume you can do the same with
the lithium batteries etc.
| |
| Eugene Nine 2005-12-29, 7:21 pm |
| upand_at_them@yahoo.com wrote:
> LQQK@mi.sig wrote:
>
> Uhh, assuming the battery packs were built using standard cell sizes.
> My 18V battery packs certainly don't look like they contain 15 AA cells
> inside (AAA won't provide enough current).
>
> Mike
There are a bunch more odd sizes used for rechargeables. Places like
www.digikey.com and www.mouser.com sell replacement batteries in these
sizes and will even spot weld them to the correct config you give them so
you don't have to try soldering them (bad).
Lithium Ion batteries are still hard to find though.
I priced out what it would cost to rebuild my 8 year old 9.6v makita packs
when they started getting to where they wouldn't hold a charge for very
long a couple years ago (bought the drill in 95). A new battery cost $29
then and to buy the cells it would cost me $24 per pack plus shipping to
get them to me. I just bought a couple new battery packs and bought the
angle drill kit which gave me another charger and battery so I now have
three batteries and a couple chargers plus the various drills and saws I've
picked up over the last 10 years which all share the same pack type. I put
the old batteries away so when i do need to rebuild the new ones, I'll just
rebuild all 5 at once as the cost of a new pack has gone up to $39.
| |
| KMoiarty 2005-12-29, 7:21 pm |
| Reminds me of what I did with my Phillips/Norelco cordless shaver a few
years ago when the built-in Ni-Cads began to fade. When I took the unit
apart I discovered that the batteries had been installed by the manufacturer
in such a way as to prevent anyone from replacing them. I took this as a
challenge to "my rights" as a consumer and after a few days of thinking it
through plus asking key questions, figured out a way to successfully replace
the worn out Ni-Cads with new ones. The shaver is now 18 years old and runs
like new. Unfortunately, my Dad died two months ago and I inherited his
much nicer, more advanced top of the line Phillips/Norelco shaver, which I
had bought for him as a Christmas gift a couple of years ago. So my old
perfectly good shaver now sits unused in a drawer. Guess it's time to give
it away to someone else who could use a good shaver.
The moral is, never throw out a cordless appliance only because its
batteries have expired; even if it's been designed to prevent them from
being serviced.
Ken
<LQQK@mi.sig> wrote in message
news:p8k8r1hps91thpiva87oqelcj1uq2bu9q4@4ax.com...
> On 29 Dec 2005 06:11:07 -0800, "DonkeyHody" <spammetts@bellsouth.net>
> wrote:
>
>
> I have got a couple of drills, both Ni-cad and I intend to rebuild the
> battery pack. Easily done, just buy the rightnumber of batteries and
> wire them in series in teh pack. I presume you can do the same with
> the lithium batteries etc.
| |
| KMoiarty 2005-12-29, 8:21 pm |
|
"DonkeyHody" <spammetts@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:1135894790.243709.211290@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
> LQQK@mi.sig wrote:
>
> You may be able to do that, but I don't think it's a viable option for
> most of us. First problem is getting into the plastic battery case.
> Mine seems to be fused together with no way to get in without
> destroying it.
This seems similar to a challenge I had to get inside and repair a sealed
fan speed-control switch for my car (for which used parts are now rare and
new ones are unreasonably expensive, plus take ages to arrive after placing
in an order). In this case I carefully cut the plastic casing open with a
blade-shaped hot soldering iron tip. Then after fixing the insides, I
resealed the case by again using soldering iron (with a different tip) to
meld edges back together again. Didn't look very neat, but it's concealed
from view and it did the trick.
> Next problem is where to get replacement batteries of
> the correct dimensions and voltages.
Look for an electronic technician's supply outlet. There's at least one in
the town where I live which carries a whole assortment of such rechargeable
batteries and can order in anything you don't see on the shelf.
> Not saying it can't be done, I'm just not sure it's worth the trouble.
>
You're right. Unless you have the time to tinker and you just happen to
derive enjoyment from such challenges, it is probably is not worth your
trouble; especially if you rely on the tool for professional work and
therefore can't tolerate the occasional unexpected 'surprise'. For example,
discovering while busy on the job that your battery-case re-sealing work
could have been reinforced or strengthened better to prevent the seam from
splitting open after an accidental, but routinely common, fall to the
floor... On the other hand, if you intend to replace batteries this way
into the future, once you get the knack of it, or with refinement of
technique along with greater efficiency and practicality gained from further
practice and experience, one may decide it to be worth one's while in the
long run, I don't know.
Ken
| |
| CBHVAC 2005-12-29, 10:21 pm |
|
"MB" <barker7@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1135870055.221151.266630@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
>
> I bought a Rdgid 12V at HD. Lifetime service warranty which incudes the
> battery.
> Plenty of power, nice chuck. Recommended.
>
> Mitch
>
Made 100% in China, looks ok...runs fine for a homeowner.
for someone that makes his living with his tools, we would pass.
| |
| KMoiarty 2005-12-30, 12:21 am |
|
"CBHVAC" <cbhvac1@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:YT%sf.292$pp3.1493@eagle.america.net...
>
> "MB" <barker7@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1135870055.221151.266630@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> [...]
>
>
> Made 100% in China, looks ok...runs fine for a homeowner.
>
> for someone that makes his living with his tools, we would pass.
>
But what isn't made in China these days? For example, Hitachi is a well
known Japanese manufacturer whose respectable-quality products we naturally
expect, logically enough, to be made in Japan. But not so with my new
Hitachi (model WH 14DMR) impact driver. At the bottom of the specs label
situated on the housing it reads (in finer print than everything above it),
"Made in China".
Ken
| |
| KMoiarty 2005-12-30, 1:21 am |
|
"DonkeyHody" <spammetts@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:1135904035.462218.34820@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
>
> KMoiarty wrote:
>
> It's funny how our experiences mold our personalities. My Dad came of
> age during the Great Depression, and it had a profound effect on him.
> His mantra was repeated to me at least once a week during my formative
> years. "Use it up, wear it out. Make it do, or do without."
>
> Once he had a tire with a slow leak. I noticed the low tire, dragged
> the air compressor out of the barn and filled the tire up for him.
> "There, Dad, that should hold you 'til you can get to a service station
> and get it fixed."
> "Fixed?? There's nothing wrong with that tire. It just goes down."
>
> Last summer, the computerized climate control quit working on his '92
> Cadillac (barely broken in with 165,000 miles). Rather than pay to get
> it fixed, he ran a wire from the AC compressor back to the base of the
> windshield. Too much trouble to fish the wire through a hole in the
> firewall (he's 82). So he just ran the wire outside around the "A"
> pillar and back in through the open driver's door. The wire continues
> to a residential light switch in a handi-box he mounted to the steering
> column with zip ties. When it gets too hot, he turns the AC on. When
> it gets too cold, he turns it off.
>
> Growing up on a farm with him had a profound effect on me. I have
> absolutely no tolerance for anything "rigged". Nothing at my place is
> held together with baling wire or duct tape. I may not have all the
> toys I want, but the ones I have are nice.
>
> But I'll probably die broke instead of comfortable like him.
>
Well compared to your Dad, at 46 I'm just a youngster, never having had
to experience anything like the great depression. But I'm a bit of a rebel
when it comes to today's disposable modular car parts, where there's no
apparent advantage over the old fashioned kind except more money to the
manufacturer when the most minor of repairs are needed. Maybe I learned
this from my Dad because he was always handy at repairing things that other
people wouldn't even try to repair. In fact, before struck by chronic
illness, he had a humble but thriving small appliance sales and repair
business whose customer base largely was attracted to his reputation for
repairing items other dealers would either refuse to, or do so for a price
that was in line with all that actually needed to be done. For example, if
somebody's vacuum cleaner's motor brushes were worn out, and the wholesale
cost for a set of replacement brushes was unreasonably steep, my Dad would
simply take a larger sized set of brushes out of his collection of otherwise
worthless spare parts, take a couple of minutes to file them to the size
required, install them and the machine and it would be running like new
again.
I did this myself about 8 years ago when my car's defrost motor conked
out, due to what I discovered was in fact worn out brushes. Paid $7 for a
set of vacuum cleaner brushes (after convincing the reluctant owner of the
vacuum cleaner store what made me presume he even carried such a part in his
store, and then that I wasn't attempting to deprive him of any business by
intending to use them to repair my own vacuum cleaner. <funny> Filed them
to the right shape and size, etc...etc... I still drive the same car (with
almost 300,000 km on the odometer) and the defrost motor hasn't been any
problem whatsoever since. Saved myself a lot of money not having to buy,
not merely a replacement motor per se, but the whole modular unit which a
new defrost/heater motor comes encased in. (PS: The car is a '91
Dodge/Mitsubishi Colt 200, which I bought when it was new.)
Ken
| |
| Keith Williams 2005-12-30, 1:21 am |
| In article <1135894091.736025.163740@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
upand_at_them@yahoo.com says...
> LQQK@mi.sig wrote:
>
> Uhh, assuming the battery packs were built using standard cell sizes.
> My 18V battery packs certainly don't look like they contain 15 AA cells
> inside (AAA won't provide enough current).
Most battery packs take what's called a "sub-C" cell. These are
standard sizes, just not what you're used to from the bunny.
BTW, I bought a Porter-Cable 14.4V driver to supliment my 12V
Makita (batteries going) a couple of years ago. The PC driver is
quite nice, as are the other PC tools I've bought.
--
Keith
| |
| Keith Williams 2005-12-30, 2:21 am |
| In article <1135904035.462218.34820@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>,
spammetts@bellsouth.net says...
>
> KMoiarty wrote:
>
> It's funny how our experiences mold our personalities. My Dad came of
> age during the Great Depression, and it had a profound effect on him.
> His mantra was repeated to me at least once a week during my formative
> years. "Use it up, wear it out. Make it do, or do without."
>
> Once he had a tire with a slow leak. I noticed the low tire, dragged
> the air compressor out of the barn and filled the tire up for him.
> "There, Dad, that should hold you 'til you can get to a service station
> and get it fixed."
> "Fixed?? There's nothing wrong with that tire. It just goes down."
>
> Last summer, the computerized climate control quit working on his '92
> Cadillac (barely broken in with 165,000 miles). Rather than pay to get
> it fixed, he ran a wire from the AC compressor back to the base of the
> windshield. Too much trouble to fish the wire through a hole in the
> firewall (he's 82). So he just ran the wire outside around the "A"
> pillar and back in through the open driver's door. The wire continues
> to a residential light switch in a handi-box he mounted to the steering
> column with zip ties. When it gets too hot, he turns the AC on. When
> it gets too cold, he turns it off.
>
> Growing up on a farm with him had a profound effect on me. I have
> absolutely no tolerance for anything "rigged". Nothing at my place is
> held together with baling wire or duct tape. I may not have all the
> toys I want, but the ones I have are nice.
My parents grew up in the depression, as well. However, they
are/were (mom's still alive) more like you than your OM. If they
wanted something they'd wait and buy the best. Cars were for
transportation and didn't impress them much though. If something
broke it was fixed. Usually. ;-)
You're right though, depression kids have a very different outlook
on life.
>
> But I'll probably die broke instead of comfortable like him.
Priorities.
--
Keith
| |
| CBHVAC 2005-12-30, 9:21 am |
|
"KMoiarty" <kmoiarty35@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:od-dnc9SiIEvMSneRVn-sw@giganews.com...
>
> "CBHVAC" <cbhvac1@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:YT%sf.292$pp3.1493@eagle.america.net...
>
> But what isn't made in China these days? For example, Hitachi is a well
> known Japanese manufacturer whose respectable-quality products we
> naturally expect, logically enough, to be made in Japan. But not so with
> my new Hitachi (model WH 14DMR) impact driver. At the bottom of the specs
> label situated on the housing it reads (in finer print than everything
> above it), "Made in China".
>
>
> Ken
>
Point taken, but if you CAN buy something still made here, and its rock
solid, why not?
| |
| habbi 2006-01-01, 12:21 pm |
| I looked into this and now have 2 options. 30 sub C cells @ 2.10 ea. for 2
battery packs plus shipping and my time to re-build them or my local
hardware store has the drill, 2 batteries, charger and case for 60 buck on
sale right now.
<LQQK@mi.sig> wrote in message
news:p8k8r1hps91thpiva87oqelcj1uq2bu9q4@4ax.com...
> On 29 Dec 2005 06:11:07 -0800, "DonkeyHody" <spammetts@bellsouth.net>
> wrote:
>
>
> I have got a couple of drills, both Ni-cad and I intend to rebuild the
> battery pack. Easily done, just buy the rightnumber of batteries and
> wire them in series in teh pack. I presume you can do the same with
> the lithium batteries etc.
| |
| Bruce & Lois Nelson 2006-01-01, 4:21 pm |
| habbi, you have the right idea. My first cordless takes batteries at
CDN$89.95 each. Cells for rebuild about CDN$60 per pack. More powerful
drill, case, 2 batteries, charger was CDN$129.95. The stuff is not worth
fixing. (One of the reasons Toronto is in trouble for landfill space -
nothing is worth fixing.)
Bruce
"habbi" <habbi@islandtelecom.com> wrote in message
news:cFStf.148068$Ph4.4521210@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca...
> I looked into this and now have 2 options. 30 sub C cells @ 2.10 ea. for 2
> battery packs plus shipping and my time to re-build them or my local
> hardware store has the drill, 2 batteries, charger and case for 60 buck on
> sale right now.
>
> <LQQK@mi.sig> wrote in message
> news:p8k8r1hps91thpiva87oqelcj1uq2bu9q4@4ax.com...
>
>
| |
| Edwin Pawlowski 2006-01-01, 6:21 pm |
|
"Bruce & Lois Nelson" <b.l.nelson@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> The stuff is not worth
> fixing. (One of the reasons Toronto is in trouble for landfill space -
> nothing is worth fixing.)
> Bruce
Wow, you guys had better change your ways. We don't have that problem down
here in the lower 48
| |
| KMoiarty 2006-01-02, 1:21 am |
| On second thought, considering that new battery packs for today's cordless
tools sell for not much more than the cost of the cells inside them, it's
probably not worth anyone's while to rebuild these things. But still, as
with my Philips/Norelco shaver I mentioned previously, I'm certain there are
other cordless-appliance instances where taking this kind of creative
initiative can be well worth the bother (except when one just doesn't have
the free time to spare, of course).
Ken
Ken
"habbi" <habbi@islandtelecom.com> wrote in message
news:cFStf.148068$Ph4.4521210@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca...
>I looked into this and now have 2 options. 30 sub C cells @ 2.10 ea. for 2
> battery packs plus shipping and my time to re-build them or my local
> hardware store has the drill, 2 batteries, charger and case for 60 buck on
> sale right now.
>
> <LQQK@mi.sig> wrote in message
> news:p8k8r1hps91thpiva87oqelcj1uq2bu9q4@4ax.com...
>
>
| |
| Bruce & Lois Nelson 2006-01-03, 1:21 pm |
| Edwin, something needs to change, but:
*** my favourite watch - crystal broke - parts not available. Watch
replacement cost CDN$10.00. 25 yrs ago was going to get a crystal replaced
on a different watch - $70 parts & labour - only paid $20 for that watch.
*** table lamp needs a cord. 8 ft cable $3.50, cord end $3.99.
Alternative is extension cord $2.99. Much less expensive to buy the
extension cord and cut the female end off. Plus, no problems with the cable
to end connection. labour is extra.
*** large windows - frame rotting. Assuming the glass can be saved,
$10,000 to rebuild the frames plus ongoing maintenance or do it over again.
Replace complete with aluminum frames, low-e coating on the new glass
(sealed double glazed units), $18,000, maintenance free.
*** TV with built in VCR player - the tape drive quits. Repair is $105
parts & labour (30 day warranty). New TV with both tape & DVD is $200.00
(5 year warranty)
*** Floor lamp with broken switch. labour to repair is $35.00 (no
warranty). Replacement lamp $19.99 (1 year warranty)
*** portable fluorescent light fixture with cord & switch, $15.99 (1 year
warranty). Replacement ballast $17.99. (part only, labour to install is
extra) (no warranty)
Too much stuff is not worth fixing.
You might want to take a close look at what happens to stuff nobody wants
where you live (broken or unwanted appliances, kitchen garbage, waste paper,
old tires, etc.). Many people groups & governments have a pretty spotty
history on disposal. If you are in the US, then have a good look at
replacement costs vs. repair parts & labour. For items other than cars,
houses, & large boats, I suspect that labour costs are high enough to make
repairs expensive compared to replacement (I suspect that if you look
closely, you will find many common items are made in China) (It is said
that years ago a city in Japan changed their name to Usa, so they could
market their manufactured goods as Made in USA. Keep your eyes open, & look
carefully.)
Bruce
"Edwin Pawlowski" <esp@snet.net> wrote in message
news:i9Ytf.4756$fO5.114@newssvr33.news.prodigy.com...
>
> "Bruce & Lois Nelson" <b.l.nelson@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>
>
> Wow, you guys had better change your ways. We don't have that problem down
> here in the lower 48
>
>
>
| |
| Edwin Pawlowski 2006-01-03, 4:21 pm |
|
"Bruce & Lois Nelson" <b.l.nelson@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> Too much stuff is not worth fixing.
>
> You might want to take a close look at what happens to stuff nobody wants
> where you live (broken or unwanted appliances, kitchen garbage, waste
> paper,
> old tires, etc.). Many people groups & governments have a pretty
> spotty
> history on disposal.
We did have one solution. Remeber the garbage barge? It was floated around
thousands of miles beofe anyone would take it in a landfill.
If you are in the US, then have a good look at
> replacement costs vs. repair parts & labour. For items other than cars,
> houses, & large boats, I suspect that labour costs are high enough to make
> repairs expensive compared to replacement (
You can even take houses out of that category. Many are now being torn down
just so a larger one can be build in the same spot. Nothing wrong with the
old one, just that the new owner want a bigger one. It won't affect me, bu
t our kids and grandkids may have a tougher life with all the luxuries that
we dispose of on a regular basis.
Ed
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