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Home > Archive > Tools repair and advice > October 2006 > Air Compressor Doesn't Keep Up
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Air Compressor Doesn't Keep Up
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| 6 hp 33 gallon Craftsman Oil Free Air Compressor 240V. I got this unit
used, was previously used for spray paint duty by a homeowner, so it
did not get much service. Looks new, actually.
It takes quite a while to pump up to a max of about 90 psi (should be
able to go to 125 psi). When I try to run tools on it, even ones well
within the demand of the unit (sorry, don't have that info handy, but
something like 11 cfm at 90), it quickly peters out, the compressor
runs, but just can't keep up. The filter material is clear, actually
run it without one to see if that was causing restriction. If I set
the gage low, say 60 psi, it pumps up to it and stops, and will
actually hold pressure, I did this and it held for 2 hours, so there
isn't an obvious leak.
So the compressor has gone weak. Are these types of compressor's
rebuild-able? It is craftsman, so parts should be available, just
wondering what might be the cause of the compressor not having the
power to do its job, worn cylinders maybe?
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| T Shadow 2006-10-26, 5:25 pm |
| "Rob" <biddy67@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1161872095.399804.174860@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> 6 hp 33 gallon Craftsman Oil Free Air Compressor 240V. I got this unit
> used, was previously used for spray paint duty by a homeowner, so it
> did not get much service. Looks new, actually.
>
> It takes quite a while to pump up to a max of about 90 psi (should be
> able to go to 125 psi). When I try to run tools on it, even ones well
> within the demand of the unit (sorry, don't have that info handy, but
> something like 11 cfm at 90), it quickly peters out, the compressor
> runs, but just can't keep up. The filter material is clear, actually
> run it without one to see if that was causing restriction. If I set
> the gage low, say 60 psi, it pumps up to it and stops, and will
> actually hold pressure, I did this and it held for 2 hours, so there
> isn't an obvious leak.
>
> So the compressor has gone weak. Are these types of compressor's
> rebuild-able? It is craftsman, so parts should be available, just
> wondering what might be the cause of the compressor not having the
> power to do its job, worn cylinders maybe?
>
For reference my 5HP/110V/30 Gallon Coleman compressor takes about 10-15 min
to pump up to indicated 125psi from empty. Just estimating. never actually
timed it. Gauges aren't very accurate so your probably not even getting
90PSI.
If you can adjust the shut off pressure it could either be in the switch or
that the compressor isn't able to supply enough pressure. Does it shut off
at the "90PSI" or just doesn't go higher, without any air being used.?
My compressor's switch only has the one pressure it shuts off at. I just
partially disassembled it to see how it works. When the switch kicks out it
releases a valve that removes pressure on the compressor side of the check
valve that keeps tank pressure from going back through the compressor. On
most units it's connected by the little black hose. Must relieve the
pressure quickly so the check valve seats forcefully. Apparently this leaks
a little by design while the compressor is running. This does and other
things could be leaking while in use but wouldn't after the check valve
closes.
Doesn't seem to be much traffic in this group.
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T Shadow wrote:
> "Rob" <biddy67@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1161872095.399804.174860@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> For reference my 5HP/110V/30 Gallon Coleman compressor takes about 10-15 min
> to pump up to indicated 125psi from empty. Just estimating. never actually
> timed it. Gauges aren't very accurate so your probably not even getting
> 90PSI.
> If you can adjust the shut off pressure it could either be in the switch or
> that the compressor isn't able to supply enough pressure. Does it shut off
> at the "90PSI" or just doesn't go higher, without any air being used.?
> My compressor's switch only has the one pressure it shuts off at. I just
> partially disassembled it to see how it works. When the switch kicks out it
> releases a valve that removes pressure on the compressor side of the check
> valve that keeps tank pressure from going back through the compressor. On
> most units it's connected by the little black hose. Must relieve the
> pressure quickly so the check valve seats forcefully. Apparently this leaks
> a little by design while the compressor is running. This does and other
> things could be leaking while in use but wouldn't after the check valve
> closes.
> Doesn't seem to be much traffic in this group.
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| It could be the reed valves are not seating like they
should, or one of them is broken not allowing the compressor
to work as it should. If you have a model number, you can
go to Sears parts and see if they have anything for your compressor.
These compressors aren't that hard to rebuild, but if the cylinder is
worn to where the new rings won't help, you might consider another
compressor block.
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| The model number is 919.152930 and Sears seems to have all the parts
for it and the engine. So I should disassemble, inspect the reed
valves? Are there any manuals out there that might help with
disassembly that you know of? I'm up to the job, I have done head work
on motorcycle engines, this would be alot cleaner at least.
I have also put a clamp meter on both legs and they are both drawing
adequate current, so a simple electrical problem it is not.
Mike wrote:
> It could be the reed valves are not seating like they
> should, or one of them is broken not allowing the compressor
> to work as it should. If you have a model number, you can
> go to Sears parts and see if they have anything for your compressor.
> These compressors aren't that hard to rebuild, but if the cylinder is
> worn to where the new rings won't help, you might consider another
> compressor block.
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| It also looks like they have replacement sleeves and rings. One good
reason for buying Craftsman, they seem to do a good job keeping parts
available. I can still find parts for a 30 year old chipper I have.
Rob wrote:[color=darkred]
> The model number is 919.152930 and Sears seems to have all the parts
> for it and the engine. So I should disassemble, inspect the reed
> valves? Are there any manuals out there that might help with
> disassembly that you know of? I'm up to the job, I have done head work
> on motorcycle engines, this would be alot cleaner at least.
>
> I have also put a clamp meter on both legs and they are both drawing
> adequate current, so a simple electrical problem it is not.
>
> Mike wrote:
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| If you can repair cycle heads, you'll have no problem with this
compressor. I don't think there are repair manuals from Sears,
but if you look at the parts page on the Sears site you can get
an idea of what goes where.
I'd order the valve plates and the o rings that seal them and while
I was at it order the rings that go on the pistons along with the
o rings that seal the valve plate to the cylinder. Part numbers I'd
order would be 61, 64, 65, 66 (two of each)
Hope this fixes your problem.
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| Thanks for the tips. I plan on disassembling before purchasing any
parts in case there is an obvious fix found in the process.
Mike wrote:
> If you can repair cycle heads, you'll have no problem with this
> compressor. I don't think there are repair manuals from Sears,
> but if you look at the parts page on the Sears site you can get
> an idea of what goes where.
> I'd order the valve plates and the o rings that seal them and while
> I was at it order the rings that go on the pistons along with the
> o rings that seal the valve plate to the cylinder. Part numbers I'd
> order would be 61, 64, 65, 66 (two of each)
> Hope this fixes your problem.
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