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Home > Archive > Tools repair and advice > August 2006 > Obsolete Craftsman Cordless Drill - Need Batteries
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Obsolete Craftsman Cordless Drill - Need Batteries
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| Tom Hanser 2005-07-31, 1:21 am |
| They've been cooked by the charger that doesn't shut off when they're fully
charged.
I'm told by Sears those batteries are obsolete, and after searching
www.sears.com/parts, they aren't available online, either.
This tool is hardly used, and I hate to part with it, the case, charge, and
two dead batteries.
Batteries, by the way, are 12 v , Model number 315.111010. Drill motor is
Model Number 973.27492.
Any input on where to get replacement batteries? Sears has other 12 v
batteries similar to this, but they include a slight ridge or "spline" along
the round plastic shaft that slips up into the body of the drill motor.
If I attempted to remove this ridge/spline, would it work? These batteries
aren't cheap, so I don't want to get involved in something that won't work.
Any ideas? Hacks? Are there batteries out there that I can cross-reference
to this one and match it up?
Help! I hate to throw this thing out.
Thanks!
| |
| Bruce & Lois Nelson 2005-08-02, 12:21 am |
| take the battery pack apart. Possibly there is a manufacturer and part #
on the individual batteries in the pack. You may be able to rebuild it.
Bruce Nelson
"Tom Hanser" <thanser@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:2YqdnY4_pOxJ33HfRVn-pg@comcast.com...
> They've been cooked by the charger that doesn't shut off when they're
fully
> charged.
>
> I'm told by Sears those batteries are obsolete, and after searching
> www.sears.com/parts, they aren't available online, either.
>
> This tool is hardly used, and I hate to part with it, the case, charge,
and
> two dead batteries.
>
> Batteries, by the way, are 12 v , Model number 315.111010. Drill motor is
> Model Number 973.27492.
>
> Any input on where to get replacement batteries? Sears has other 12 v
> batteries similar to this, but they include a slight ridge or "spline"
along
> the round plastic shaft that slips up into the body of the drill motor.
>
> If I attempted to remove this ridge/spline, would it work? These
batteries
> aren't cheap, so I don't want to get involved in something that won't
work.
>
> Any ideas? Hacks? Are there batteries out there that I can
cross-reference
> to this one and match it up?
>
> Help! I hate to throw this thing out.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
| |
| Tom Hanser 2005-08-02, 3:21 am |
| Bruce:
I see several Panasonic 97-07 batteries linked together.
Any leads as to where I can find these replacement batteries online? I'm
looking at Batteries America, but I don't see them.
Thanks!
Tom Hanser
Seattle, WA
"Bruce & Lois Nelson" <b.l.nelson@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:IVAHe.2808$pH4.342238@news20.bellglobal.com...
> take the battery pack apart. Possibly there is a manufacturer and part #
> on the individual batteries in the pack. You may be able to rebuild it.
>
> Bruce Nelson
>
> "Tom Hanser" <thanser@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:2YqdnY4_pOxJ33HfRVn-pg@comcast.com...
> fully
> and
> along
> batteries
> work.
> cross-reference
>
>
| |
| Bruce & Lois Nelson 2005-08-02, 7:21 pm |
| Try http://www.batteriesoutlet.com
http://www.megabatteries.com
http://www.aspencer1.com
Some batteries are heat sensitive. If you can get them with tabs already
tack welded, you could solder wire (maybe #16 multistrand) to the tabs, with
an appropriate heat sink, to reduce heat load on the battery.
Bruce Nelson
"Tom Hanser" <thanser@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:4eednY_4wo7Kl3LfRVn-rg@comcast.com...
> Bruce:
>
> I see several Panasonic 97-07 batteries linked together.
>
> Any leads as to where I can find these replacement batteries online? I'm
> looking at Batteries America, but I don't see them.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tom Hanser
> Seattle, WA
>
>
>
> "Bruce & Lois Nelson" <b.l.nelson@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:IVAHe.2808$pH4.342238@news20.bellglobal.com...
#[color=darkred]
>
>
| |
| Tom Hanser 2005-08-03, 3:21 am |
| Thanks, Bruce.
One other option, if I can't find these batteries or don't want to solder
them together, is to purchase the newer 12 power pack, and change out the
inside batteries. I'm assuming they're the same set of batteries in a
slightly different case.
Tom Hanser
Seattle, WA
"Bruce & Lois Nelson" <b.l.nelson@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:unRHe.4160$z91.364070@news20.bellglobal.com...
> Try http://www.batteriesoutlet.com
> http://www.megabatteries.com
> http://www.aspencer1.com
>
> Some batteries are heat sensitive. If you can get them with tabs already
> tack welded, you could solder wire (maybe #16 multistrand) to the tabs,
> with
> an appropriate heat sink, to reduce heat load on the battery.
>
> Bruce Nelson
>
> "Tom Hanser" <thanser@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:4eednY_4wo7Kl3LfRVn-rg@comcast.com...
> #
>
>
| |
| toyman 2005-08-04, 10:21 pm |
| If everything fails there is another option . You can attach two wires to
the terminals inside drill and alligator clips on the other end, then you
can
connect it to any 12 to 18 volt power source. Cheap 12 volt lawn mower
batteries work great but of course you have the cord to deal with but its
still portable.
Tom Hanser" <thanser@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:2YqdnY4_pOxJ33HfRVn-pg@comcast.com...
> They've been cooked by the charger that doesn't shut off when they're
fully
> charged.
>
> I'm told by Sears those batteries are obsolete, and after searching
> www.sears.com/parts, they aren't available online, either.
>
> This tool is hardly used, and I hate to part with it, the case, charge,
and
> two dead batteries.
>
> Batteries, by the way, are 12 v , Model number 315.111010. Drill motor is
> Model Number 973.27492.
>
> Any input on where to get replacement batteries? Sears has other 12 v
> batteries similar to this, but they include a slight ridge or "spline"
along
> the round plastic shaft that slips up into the body of the drill motor.
>
> If I attempted to remove this ridge/spline, would it work? These
batteries
> aren't cheap, so I don't want to get involved in something that won't
work.
>
> Any ideas? Hacks? Are there batteries out there that I can
cross-reference
> to this one and match it up?
>
> Help! I hate to throw this thing out.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
| |
| Bruce & Lois Nelson 2005-08-05, 12:21 am |
| There's an idea !!!!
Now where do I find a cheap 14.4V battery that will run my old laptop? (new
battery is about $375, and the laptop is not worth it).
Bruce Nelson
"toyman" <askdrj@charter.net> wrote in message
news:eryIe.4749$_41.3753@fe02.lga...
> If everything fails there is another option . You can attach two wires to
> the terminals inside drill and alligator clips on the other end, then you
> can
> connect it to any 12 to 18 volt power source. Cheap 12 volt lawn mower
> batteries work great but of course you have the cord to deal with but its
> still portable.
>
>
>
> Tom Hanser" <thanser@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:2YqdnY4_pOxJ33HfRVn-pg@comcast.com...
> fully
> and
is[color=darkred]
> along
> batteries
> work.
> cross-reference
>
>
| |
| Tom Hanser 2005-08-05, 1:21 am |
| Good idea, Toyman. At least I wouldn't have to dispose of a virtually new
drill motor.
I notice once I got inside the battery pack, there are a cluster of about
seven batteries wired together. One battery is inserted up into the
cylindrical piece with the terminals on it, but it doesn't want to come
out - I wonder if it's soldered to the terminals?
This might be a problem.
"Bruce & Lois Nelson" <b.l.nelson@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:TVzIe.7201$z91.743902@news20.bellglobal.com...
> There's an idea !!!!
>
> Now where do I find a cheap 14.4V battery that will run my old laptop?
> (new
> battery is about $375, and the laptop is not worth it).
>
> Bruce Nelson
>
>
> "toyman" <askdrj@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:eryIe.4749$_41.3753@fe02.lga...
> is
>
>
| |
|
| quote:
Originally posted by Tom Hanser
They've been cooked by the charger that doesn't shut off when they're fully
charged.
I'm told by Sears those batteries are obsolete, and after searching
www.sears.com/parts, they aren't available online, either.
This tool is hardly used, and I hate to part with it, the case, charge, and
two dead batteries.
Batteries, by the way, are 12 v , Model number 315.111010. Drill motor is
Model Number 973.27492.
Any input on where to get replacement batteries? Sears has other 12 v
batteries similar to this, but they include a slight ridge or "spline" along
the round plastic shaft that slips up into the body of the drill motor.
If I attempted to remove this ridge/spline, would it work? These batteries
aren't cheap, so I don't want to get involved in something that won't work.
Any ideas? Hacks? Are there batteries out there that I can cross-reference
to this one and match it up?
Help! I hate to throw this thing out.
Thanks!
| |
|
| quote:
Originally posted by Bruce & Lois Nelson
take the battery pack apart. Possibly there is a manufacturer and part #
on the individual batteries in the pack. You may be able to rebuild it.
Bruce Nelson
"Tom Hanser" <thanser@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:2YqdnY4_pOxJ33HfRVn-pg@comcast.com...
> They've been cooked by the charger that doesn't shut off when they're
fully
> charged.
>
> I'm told by Sears those batteries are obsolete, and after searching
> www.sears.com/parts, they aren't available online, either.
>
> This tool is hardly used, and I hate to part with it, the case, charge,
and
> two dead batteries.
>
> Batteries, by the way, are 12 v , Model number 315.111010. Drill motor is
> Model Number 973.27492.
>
> Any input on where to get replacement batteries? Sears has other 12 v
> batteries similar to this, but they include a slight ridge or "spline"
along
> the round plastic shaft that slips up into the body of the drill motor.
>
> If I attempted to remove this ridge/spline, would it work? These
batteries
> aren't cheap, so I don't want to get involved in something that won't
work.
>
> Any ideas? Hacks? Are there batteries out there that I can
cross-reference
> to this one and match it up?
>
> Help! I hate to throw this thing out.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
| |
|
| quote:
Originally posted by clant
Tom, Most likely I've got the same exact tool..marketed by Ryobi under the Craftsman name. It's a 12 volt drill using a 315.111010 battery pack. Here in the Wash DC area, there's a place called Batteries or maybe it's Battery Plus which takes the shell and repacks them. For $37, they repacked my shell with the 1.2v Nicads using 2.1 amp/hour vice the Sears original 1.7 amp/hour battery. It works great, holds the charge longer and has more power so the old 12 volt drill runs like new again. Sears told me they can order this battery but it was $65 with shipping. My problem is that I lost the little diode in one of the packs. It's wrapped in tape and looks like a tiny copper colored affair which is coated in clear glass or plastic. If you give up on repacking through batterys plus, I'd like to get that little diode from you and could arrange to send something. Anyway, glad to know there are others out there who can't bring themselves to simply throw good tools out!
Regards/ chuck lantz knx1070@joimail.com | |
| Bruce & Lois Nelson 2005-08-10, 10:21 pm |
| Probably spot welds. See if you can cut the tabs. I understand it is
better to try to avoid applying heat directly to the battery.
Bruce
"Tom Hanser" <thanser@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:f6qdnZ2dnZ1Cf-rjnZ2dnclBb9-dnZ2dRVn-052dnZ0@comcast.com...
> Good idea, Toyman. At least I wouldn't have to dispose of a virtually new
> drill motor.
>
> I notice once I got inside the battery pack, there are a cluster of about
> seven batteries wired together. One battery is inserted up into the
> cylindrical piece with the terminals on it, but it doesn't want to come
> out - I wonder if it's soldered to the terminals?
>
> This might be a problem.
>
>
>
>
> "Bruce & Lois Nelson" <b.l.nelson@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:TVzIe.7201$z91.743902@news20.bellglobal.com...
to[color=darkred]
you[color=darkred]
its[color=darkred]
charge,[color=darkred]
motor[color=darkred]
v[color=darkred]
"spline"[color=darkred]
motor.[color=darkred]
>
>
| |
|
| Thus spake Tom Hanser:
> Any leads as to where I can find these replacement batteries online? I'm
> looking at Batteries America, but I don't see them.
They are likely "sub-C" size (slightly smaller than your hardware store "C"
cell. If they're NiCd (likely), any brand NiCd of that size will work. Many
suppliers. I like www.jameco.com for batteries. Order NiCd tabbed sub-C
cells. Don't solder directly to the battery ends; get "tabbed" cells and
solder the tabs together or bridge them with wire.
That one cell up the stalk will be a problem if you can't get it out.
Good luck,
Dave
--
Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't
ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.
DaveC
me@privacy.net
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group
| |
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"Tom Hanser" <thanser@comcast.net> wrote in message news:t-idnbwTvPZYyW3fRVn-uA@comcast.com...
> Thanks, Bruce.
>
> One other option, if I can't find these batteries or don't want to solder
> them together, is to purchase the newer 12 power pack, and change out the
> inside batteries. I'm assuming they're the same set of batteries in a
> slightly different case.
Or they could be a completely different kind of battery that won't like your old charger.
Bob
| |
|
| Typical of craftsman, sell something and don't bother to tell the customer
that the batteries will be obsolete, and that it is 'cheaper' to buy a whole
new drill. Read 'why I'll never buy craftsman again'.
Dave
"Bob" <bobnospam1@softhome.net> wrote in message
news:H_-dnaP-z8cS9M_enZ2dnUVZ_tKdnZ2d@comcast.com...
>
> "Tom Hanser" <thanser@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:t-idnbwTvPZYyW3fRVn-uA@comcast.com...
>
> Or they could be a completely different kind of battery that won't like
> your old charger.
>
> Bob
>
>
| |
| Bruce & Lois Nelson 2005-11-22, 2:21 am |
| actually, even when the batteries are available, it is better to buy new.
The last time I went to replace a battery pack, I realized that for $5.00
more than the cost of the battery, I could buy a more powerful drill with 2
batteries, charger and case.
This seems to be the case not only with craftsman, but with other cordless
vendors as well: the package of drill, 2 batteries, charger, and case,
costs less than 2 replacement batteries. And governments wonder where
the landfill space goes.
Bruce Nelson
"Dave" <Dave@pleasereplytonewsgroup.ca> wrote in message
news:indgf.553962$oW2.283033@pd7tw1no...
> Typical of craftsman, sell something and don't bother to tell the customer
> that the batteries will be obsolete, and that it is 'cheaper' to buy a
whole
> new drill. Read 'why I'll never buy craftsman again'.
>
> Dave
>
> "Bob" <bobnospam1@softhome.net> wrote in message
> news:H_-dnaP-z8cS9M_enZ2dnUVZ_tKdnZ2d@comcast.com...
solder[color=darkred]
the[color=darkred]
>
>
| |
| Schoemer 2006-08-14, 10:27 am |
| There are companies out there that can rebuild your batteries for you. Diversified Medical NCE does a very good job rebuilding power tool packs. Call them at 800-328-3773.
quote:
Originally posted by Bruce & Lois Nelson
take the battery pack apart. Possibly there is a manufacturer and part #
on the individual batteries in the pack. You may be able to rebuild it.
Bruce Nelson
"Tom Hanser" <thanser@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:2YqdnY4_pOxJ33HfRVn-pg@comcast.com...
> They've been cooked by the charger that doesn't shut off when they're
fully
> charged.
>
> I'm told by Sears those batteries are obsolete, and after searching
> www.sears.com/parts, they aren't available online, either.
>
> This tool is hardly used, and I hate to part with it, the case, charge,
and
> two dead batteries.
>
> Batteries, by the way, are 12 v , Model number 315.111010. Drill motor is
> Model Number 973.27492.
>
> Any input on where to get replacement batteries? Sears has other 12 v
> batteries similar to this, but they include a slight ridge or "spline"
along
> the round plastic shaft that slips up into the body of the drill motor.
>
> If I attempted to remove this ridge/spline, would it work? These
batteries
> aren't cheap, so I don't want to get involved in something that won't
work.
>
> Any ideas? Hacks? Are there batteries out there that I can
cross-reference
> to this one and match it up?
>
> Help! I hate to throw this thing out.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
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