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Home > Archive > Home Repair forum > June 2005 > Brick Re-Pointing Tool Suggestions?
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Brick Re-Pointing Tool Suggestions?
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| snapperhead 2005-06-24, 6:25 pm |
| My home was built in the 1940's. When I purchased it several years ago the
home inspector told me that I would need to sand down the metal lentils
above the doors and windows and paint and recaulk them.
I'm starting the job now and it seems that the moisture and rust from the
lentils has step cracked the pointing around the openings.
I've read a good deal about repointing on the web but I've yet to discover
the correct tool for removing the old mortar.
I'm thinking some type of grinder or rotary tool.
Anybody have any experience with this? Could you suggest a list of tools
I'll need for this job?
Thanks.
Snappa
--
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| roger61611@yahoo.com 2005-06-24, 6:25 pm |
| This may be heresy but I used a screwdriver. Did the whole outside of
the brick foundation that way, gosh, like 15 years ago, still looks
fine.
The 'real' way is with a chisel like device and grinding tools if I
recall this Old House correctly (from back when they showed you how to
do things, not how to build 10 million dollar room additions).
Key is to get down to clean brick and what's left of the stable, clean,
dry mortar. The proper way also creates a shape in the existing mortar
that helps hold on to the new mortar.
But me, I'd use a flat head screwdriver, brush it out, and cram the
mortar in there.
| |
| ConcreteFinishing&StuccoGuy 2005-06-24, 6:25 pm |
| Americans have no clue when it comes to poiting brick or stone. The finest
masons are always french.
Good source for tools is www.bontools.com or www.marshalltown.com
--
Troweller^nospam^@canada.com
Remove the obvious to reply. Experienced and reliable
Concrete Finishing and Synthetic Stucco application in the GTA.
<roger61611@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1119639794.145398.138850@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
quote:
> This may be heresy but I used a screwdriver. Did the whole outside of
> the brick foundation that way, gosh, like 15 years ago, still looks
> fine.
>
> The 'real' way is with a chisel like device and grinding tools if I
> recall this Old House correctly (from back when they showed you how to
> do things, not how to build 10 million dollar room additions).
>
> Key is to get down to clean brick and what's left of the stable, clean,
> dry mortar. The proper way also creates a shape in the existing mortar
> that helps hold on to the new mortar.
>
> But me, I'd use a flat head screwdriver, brush it out, and cram the
> mortar in there.
>
| |
| RicodJour 2005-06-24, 6:25 pm |
| snapperhead wrote:
quote:
> My home was built in the 1940's. When I purchased it several years ago the
> home inspector told me that I would need to sand down the metal lentils
> above the doors and windows and paint and recaulk them.
> I'm starting the job now and it seems that the moisture and rust from the
> lentils has step cracked the pointing around the openings.
> I've read a good deal about repointing on the web but I've yet to discover
> the correct tool for removing the old mortar.
> I'm thinking some type of grinder or rotary tool.
> Anybody have any experience with this? Could you suggest a list of tools
> I'll need for this job?
The lintels (lentils are beans) need to be protected from moisture. As
you've seen, when they rust they can cause some pretty big problems.
The exposed surfaces are easy to deal with - just use a wire disk/cup
and a drill with sandpaper for the parts you can't reach otherwise.
Use a rust converting paint as primer, then a couple top coats in your
color choice.
The best tool for clearing out the old mortar is an angle grinder with
a 1/4" thick segmented diamond wheel. Makes short work of it. You'll
have to use a masonry chisel, or as someone else suggested, a
screwdriver, to clear out the areas you can't reach with the grinder.
The grinder is a lot faster, messy as hell, more dangerous, more likely
to mess up the brick if you're not careful and entirely worth it.
Blow out the joints when you're done and then repoint. It's not a bad
idea to caulk the mortar joint where the lintel extends into the brick.
That's always the first place to go.
R
| |
| RicodJour 2005-06-24, 11:25 pm |
| ConcreteFrenching&StaccatoGuy wrote:
quote:
> Americans have no clue when it comes to poiting brick or stone. The finest
> masons are always french.
> Good source for tools is www.bontools.com or www.marshalltown.com
>
> --
> Troller^nospam^@canuckistan.com
>
> Remove the obvious to reply. Experienced and reliable
> Concrete Finishing and Synthetic Stucco application in the GTA.
I always look forward to reading your posts. They have that certain
child-like grasp of capitalization and spelling that somehow makes
reading them fun.
Your first link is a search portal - one step below useless. The other
link is for a company from Marshalltown, Iowa. You can't get much more
American than that. Thanks for helping out the economy.
R
| |
| RicodJour 2005-06-24, 11:25 pm |
| ConcreteFrenching&StaccatoGuy wrote:
quote:
> Americans have no clue when it comes to poiting brick or stone. The finest
> masons are always french.
> Good source for tools is www.bontools.com or www.marshalltown.com
>
> --
> Troller^nospam^@canuckistan.com
>
> Remove the obvious to reply. Experienced and reliable
> Concrete Finishing and Synthetic Stucco application in the GTA.
I always look forward to reading your posts. They have that certain
child-like grasp of capitalization and spelling that somehow makes
reading them fun.
Your first link is a search portal - one step below useless. The other
link is for a company from Marshalltown, Iowa. You can't get much more
American than that. Thanks for helping out the economy.
R
| |
| snapperhead 2005-06-30, 6:25 pm |
| Thank you very much for your comments and suggestions. You mention:
"The best tool for clearing out the old mortar is an angle grinder with a
1/4" thick segmented diamond wheel. "
This makes allot of sense to me.
Do you recommend a powerful grinder (9A which in the hands of a novice could
get out of hand and damage surrounding brick or a lower powered unit (5A
which may not last the life of the project)?
Is variable speed an important option?
I don't project much use for this tool after completing this project but
anything I spend will be worth it if I can complete this task.
Thanks again.
Snappa
--
"RicodJour" <ricodjour@worldemail.com> wrote in message
news:1119643118.482899.78980@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
quote:
> snapperhead wrote:
>
> The lintels (lentils are beans) need to be protected from moisture. As
> you've seen, when they rust they can cause some pretty big problems.
> The exposed surfaces are easy to deal with - just use a wire disk/cup
> and a drill with sandpaper for the parts you can't reach otherwise.
> Use a rust converting paint as primer, then a couple top coats in your
> color choice.
>
> The best tool for clearing out the old mortar is an angle grinder with
> a 1/4" thick segmented diamond wheel. Makes short work of it. You'll
> have to use a masonry chisel, or as someone else suggested, a
> screwdriver, to clear out the areas you can't reach with the grinder.
> The grinder is a lot faster, messy as hell, more dangerous, more likely
> to mess up the brick if you're not careful and entirely worth it.
>
> Blow out the joints when you're done and then repoint. It's not a bad
> idea to caulk the mortar joint where the lintel extends into the brick.
> That's always the first place to go.
>
> R
>
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