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Home > Archive > Home Repair forum > July 2005 > Finishing basement/plumbing questions
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Finishing basement/plumbing questions
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| jfalken@socket.net 2005-07-15, 12:25 pm |
| I have a basement that has the rough-in for a bathroom. I am looking
to finish it and have a few questions. I understand the Toilet flange
mount point/wall needs. However, based on the drawing below(not to
scale), I am wondering:
http://members.socket.net/~jfalken/img/plumbwall.jpg
1. The roughin is I believe 2" PVC. Can I tie in the three sinks you
see in the picture to the one drain/vent? Will this work or do I need
a separate vent for each sink?
2. The dotted line represents the proposed horizontal run. As long as
I keep the pipe sloping downward to the rough-in, can I make the 90
deg. turn?
3. It is a deep pour basement, so I have to use 10' lumber. Due to the
cost, I don't want to overbuy/build. With the pipe(dotted line)
running through it, do these walls need to be 2x4, 2x6, or double 2x4
with the pipe running in between? If I do go with something over
single 2x4, how do you handle the door jam thickness? Most pre-hung
doors seem to have thinner than 6" jams.
4. I have a stub for the shower. I want to do the walls in ceramic. I
am going back and forth between prefab fiberglass shower pan and doing
a mortar bed/freeform shower base. Is the mortar bed style way over
the head of a pretty handy homeowner?
Thanks for your help. I'm hoping to start this this weekend, so wish
me luck!
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| Wow - Lots of questions. First suggestion, get a couple of books on subjects
you have questions about. There is an e-book on basements on the net that
has some nice design ideas and general questions.
http://www.basementideas.com/download_page.php I aid $14 for the 'full'
version. Its not too bad, had some good ideas plus I got the instant
satisfaction of having the book w/o getting off my arse to go to the store!
I'll comment on your questions inline below...
<jfalken@socket.net> wrote in message
news:1121434562.817651.319590@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
quote:
>I have a basement that has the rough-in for a bathroom. I am looking
> to finish it and have a few questions. I understand the Toilet flange
> mount point/wall needs. However, based on the drawing below(not to
> scale), I am wondering:
>
> http://members.socket.net/~jfalken/img/plumbwall.jpg
>
> 1. The roughin is I believe 2" PVC. Can I tie in the three sinks you
> see in the picture to the one drain/vent? Will this work or do I need
> a separate vent for each sink?
Check your plumbing book for that one. Others may have some thoughts....
quote:
>
> 2. The dotted line represents the proposed horizontal run. As long as
> I keep the pipe sloping downward to the rough-in, can I make the 90
> deg. turn?
Yes just do not loose the slope. If you can get a sweep 90 in there its not
as tight of a turn, it will depend on your construction details.
quote:
>
> 3. It is a deep pour basement, so I have to use 10' lumber. Due to the
> cost, I don't want to overbuy/build. With the pipe(dotted line)
> running through it, do these walls need to be 2x4, 2x6, or double 2x4
> with the pipe running in between? If I do go with something over
> single 2x4, how do you handle the door jam thickness? Most pre-hung
> doors seem to have thinner than 6" jams.
Deep pour basement is very nice! Good job on that one. In a non load bearing
wall if you are just running 1 1/2" drain you can jst use 2x4s IMO.
If you go to 2x6 for your wet walls and you have a door in them you will
either
1) Order prehung doors with jambs for 2x6 construction or
2) Build jamb extensions or
3) No not use pre-hung doors and build you own jambs.
#1 is easiest, #2 is cheapest but a bit of work, #3 is hardest and
relatively cheap.
quote:
>
> 4. I have a stub for the shower. I want to do the walls in ceramic. I
> am going back and forth between prefab fiberglass shower pan and doing
> a mortar bed/freeform shower base. Is the mortar bed style way over
> the head of a pretty handy homeowner?
I think it is. You can get the shower bases in some nice materials if you
shop around. Do not accept just the limited options at the blue and orange
stores.
Keep in mind the shower doors in your design. I built a shower that required
custom doors. It added a lot of cost (Doors cost $2K versus a couple
hundred) but looked very cool when done.
quote:
>
> Thanks for your help. I'm hoping to start this this weekend, so wish
> me luck!
>
Good luck - I am starting mine very soon too! Where are you located?
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<jfalken@socket.net> wrote in message
news:1121434562.817651.319590@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
quote:
> I have a basement that has the rough-in for a bathroom. I am
looking
quote:
> to finish it and have a few questions. I understand the Toilet
flange
quote:
> mount point/wall needs. However, based on the drawing below(not to
> scale), I am wondering:
>
> http://members.socket.net/~jfalken/img/plumbwall.jpg
>
> 1. The roughin is I believe 2" PVC. Can I tie in the three sinks
you
quote:
> see in the picture to the one drain/vent? Will this work or do I
need
quote:
> a separate vent for each sink?
Yes, you can tie the vents together
quote:
> 2. The dotted line represents the proposed horizontal run. As long
as
quote:
> I keep the pipe sloping downward to the rough-in, can I make the 90
> deg. turn?
Yes, just keep the horizontal runs at least 6 inches above the flood
rim of the sinks
They're vents, so slope in the right direction
quote:
> 3. It is a deep pour basement, so I have to use 10' lumber. Due to
the
quote:
> cost, I don't want to overbuy/build. With the pipe(dotted line)
> running through it, do these walls need to be 2x4, 2x6, or double
2x4
quote:
> with the pipe running in between? If I do go with something over
> single 2x4, how do you handle the door jam thickness? Most pre-hung
> doors seem to have thinner than 6" jams.
You can get 5-1/4 inch jambs for plaster walls (or make your own).
What kind of (and how high) ceiling are you going to have? Just run
the vents up normal 2X4 stud cavities then go horizontal above it...
quote:
>
> 4. I have a stub for the shower. I want to do the walls in ceramic.
I
quote:
> am going back and forth between prefab fiberglass shower pan and
doing
quote:
> a mortar bed/freeform shower base. Is the mortar bed style way over
> the head of a pretty handy homeowner?
Maybe, but get a few books and judge for yourself. Lots of new
materials out there these days...
quote:
> Thanks for your help. I'm hoping to start this this weekend, so
wish
quote:
> me luck!
>
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| G Henslee 2005-07-15, 12:25 pm |
| jfalken@socket.net wrote:
quote:
> I have a basement that has the rough-in for a bathroom. I am looking
> to finish it and have a few questions.
>
> 4. I have a stub for the shower. I want to do the walls in ceramic. I
> am going back and forth between prefab fiberglass shower pan and doing
> a mortar bed/freeform shower base. Is the mortar bed style way over
> the head of a pretty handy homeowner?
>
Not really but some can and some can't.
http://www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html
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"Rick" <notta@goodone.com> wrote in message
news:tnPBe.3777$oZ.3600@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...[vbcol=seagreen]
>
> <jfalken@socket.net> wrote in message
> news:1121434562.817651.319590@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> looking
> flange
to[vbcol=seagreen]
> you
> need
>
> Yes, you can tie the vents together
>
long[vbcol=seagreen]
> as
90[vbcol=seagreen]
>
> Yes, just keep the horizontal runs at least 6 inches above the flood
> rim of the sinks
> They're vents, so slope in the right direction
>
to[vbcol=seagreen]
> the
> 2x4
pre-hung[vbcol=seagreen]
>
> You can get 5-1/4 inch jambs for plaster walls (or make your own).
> What kind of (and how high) ceiling are you going to have? Just run
> the vents up normal 2X4 stud cavities then go horizontal above it...
>
ceramic.[vbcol=seagreen]
> I
> doing
over[vbcol=seagreen]
>
> Maybe, but get a few books and judge for yourself. Lots of new
> materials out there these days...
>
> wish
Hold on-I forgot about the toilet on the vent...
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"Rick" <notta@goodone.com> wrote in message
news:ayPBe.10984$aY6.2249@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...
quote:
>
> "Rick" <notta@goodone.com> wrote in message
> news:tnPBe.3777$oZ.3600@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...
> to
sinks[vbcol=seagreen]
I[vbcol=seagreen]
> long
> 90
flood[vbcol=seagreen]
> to
double[vbcol=seagreen]
over[vbcol=seagreen]
> pre-hung
own).[vbcol=seagreen]
run[vbcol=seagreen]
it...[vbcol=seagreen]
> ceramic.
> over
>
>
> Hold on-I forgot about the toilet on the vent...
OK, 2 inch is good for 24 fixture units and you're well below that...
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| jfalken@socket.net 2005-07-15, 6:25 pm |
| OK, I was thinking of going up and tying into the vent above. However,
I will need to go horizontal for the drain from the sinks. Is that OK
since the drain will run horizontally a few feet, make a turn and run
horizontal about another foot to get to the rough-in vent/drain combo?
Also, what thickness of wall framing would you suggest for that
horizontal run? Finally, as to slope, I had been told to slope down
towards the rough-in for the drain and either level or slightly up
towards the roughin for the vent. Is that correct? Thanks for your
help.
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<jfalken@socket.net> wrote in message
news:1121440943.643854.172300@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
quote:
> OK, I was thinking of going up and tying into the vent above.
However,
quote:
> I will need to go horizontal for the drain from the sinks. Is that
OK
quote:
> since the drain will run horizontally a few feet, make a turn and
run
quote:
> horizontal about another foot to get to the rough-in vent/drain
combo?
quote:
> Also, what thickness of wall framing would you suggest for that
> horizontal run? Finally, as to slope, I had been told to slope down
> towards the rough-in for the drain and either level or slightly up
> towards the roughin for the vent. Is that correct? Thanks for your
> help.
The horizontal drain length between the fixture and the vent depends
on the building code in effect. I had assumed all the sink drains were
in the floor Based on your latest question and depending on how the
plumbing was done under the floor, you may have a problem with fixture
units on a wet vent.
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| jfalken@socket.net 2005-07-15, 6:25 pm |
| I think I may have confused this thing by not knowing the proper terms.
After researching Wet Vent, I don't believe that applies here. I drew
a quick pictur of what I have in mind. It is below:
http://members.socket.net/~jfalken/img/Plumbing.jpg
The basic question is whether I can tie in these 3 new sinks into the
one Drain/Vent Rough-in as shown?
After looking at how other things were built in my house, they appeared
to build a wet wall by having 2 stud walls with a gap down the middle
of 3-4 inchies and that is where the builder ran the plumbing and HVAC.
So I will probably just copy that. Does my plumbing look OK?
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<jfalken@socket.net> wrote in message
news:1121446562.451254.215240@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
quote:
> I think I may have confused this thing by not knowing the proper
terms.
quote:
> After researching Wet Vent, I don't believe that applies here. I
drew
quote:
> a quick pictur of what I have in mind. It is below:
>
> http://members.socket.net/~jfalken/img/Plumbing.jpg
>
> The basic question is whether I can tie in these 3 new sinks into
the
quote:
> one Drain/Vent Rough-in as shown?
>
> After looking at how other things were built in my house, they
appeared
quote:
> to build a wet wall by having 2 stud walls with a gap down the
middle
quote:
> of 3-4 inchies and that is where the builder ran the plumbing and
HVAC.
quote:
> So I will probably just copy that. Does my plumbing look OK?
I'll look at the link later, but you can build a "wet wall" using 2X6
plates and 2X4 studs turned sideways..
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"Rick" <notta@goodone.com> wrote in message
news:FPSBe.11127$aY6.2631@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...[vbcol=seagreen]
>
> <jfalken@socket.net> wrote in message
> news:1121446562.451254.215240@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> terms.
> drew
> the
> appeared
> middle
> HVAC.
OK, since you are venting each fixture you don't have to worry about
the drain lengths. The wet vent is the vent pipe section between the
sink drain tie ins and the sewer line (if the toilet and shower are
tied in without their own vents).
But you only have 3 fixture units on a 2 inch so that's OK...
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"Rick" <notta@goodone.com> wrote in message
news:FPSBe.11127$aY6.2631@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...
quote:
>
> <jfalken@socket.net> wrote in message
> news:1121446562.451254.215240@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> terms.
> drew
> the
> appeared
> middle
> HVAC.
>
>
> I'll look at the link later, but you can build a "wet wall" using
2X6
quote:
> plates and 2X4 studs turned sideways..
And when you do your plumbing, you can use sanitary tees for your
vents and trap tie ins, but you can't use them on their backs in
drains...
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