Home Repair forum - Re: OT: Car Brakes Squeaking

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Re: OT: Car Brakes Squeaking

deans@wdeans.com

2005-07-24, 9:11 pm

do_not_spam_me@my-deja.com wrote:
> Suzie-Q wrote:
>
>
> Sometimes squeal is caused by dust, and simply spraying water over the
> inner and outer pads will eliminate it.
>
> You should be able to inspect the outer brake pads through the openings
> in the wheel and by steering the wheels to one extreme or the other to
> see the inner pads. Don't assume both pads in a pair are of equal
> thickness since one can wear out much faster than the other, especially
> if the caliper piston or slider rods have seized. There should be at
> least 1/16" of friction material left on each of the steel backing
> plates (about 1/8" themselves).
>
> Don't change the pads yourself unless you're good with tool and know
> all the precautions to take. Most important is to not let the car fall
> on you -- loosen the wheel lug nuts slightly before jacking the car,
> and use a jack stand in addition to the jack. Also install the parts
> correctly (get a diagram or take very good photos) and torque them
> properly (use a cheap 3/8" torque wrench for the brake parts, a 1/2"
> torque wrench for the wheel lug nuts). The caliper piston will likely
> have to be pressed back to make room for the extra material on the new
> pads. There is a tool for this, but an ordinary c-clamp will work as
> well (you may need a piece of wood for it). If your brake fluid
> reservior is full, fluid may spill out of it when you do this, and
> brake fluid dissolves paint very quickly (brand-new turkey baster or
> brand-new ketchup pump can remove excess fluid before you press back
> the caliper piston). New brake pads usually require some rubbery
> material or high-temperature grease on their metal backs (not on the
> friction side!) to prevent squealing.

Greetings,

This is good stuff Suzie-Q. I am glad to see at least one poster
providing good, usable information.

Thanks do_not_spam_me

Mark and Kim Smith

2005-07-24, 9:11 pm

deans@wdeans.com wrote:

>do_not_spam_me@my-deja.com wrote:
>
>
>
>Greetings,
>
>This is good stuff Suzie-Q. I am glad to see at least one poster
>providing good, usable information.
>
>Thanks do_not_spam_me
>
>
>

Actually, not good information! Unless you like buying master
cylinders! Go ahead and push that piston in. Along with all the old
fluid is dirt and other crap. So go ahead and push all that up into the
master. More times than not, you'll mess up that master. Proper way is
to open the bleeder, then press the piston. When done with your brake
job, top off the master as necessary.

And no, most new pads don't require anti-squeal. Not if the job is done
properly. It all depends on the surface of your rotor. And it depends
on proper installation of your pads. Crimp the ears if it has them.
Make sure your clips are in good shape and properly installed. If the
manufacturer doesn't recommend NOT turning the rotors, them turn them.
If not, then feel free to enjoy your vehicle pulling to one side or
another when you stop.

Sure, you only pay $5 per wheel for pads. But you'll pay that a lot
more than I will. I'll get more miles and wear out of my brake job and
spend less than you in the long run. I have no interest in keeping the
$5 a wheel brake pad people in business. My interest is in a cost
effective brake job that will get maximum miles on both the pads and the
rotors and not ruining the master, all at the same time!

Mark and Kim Smith

2005-07-24, 9:11 pm

deans@wdeans.com wrote:

>
>That depends on your what car you own. Some cars you should disconnect
>the battery before working on the brakes but I didn't hear you mention
>that. <snip>
>
Well, I didn't hear you say how a late model Dodge pickup master
cyclinder should be checked for leaks, but we weren't talking about that
or disconnecting batteries. So what either has to do with brake pads, I
don't know. BTW, you don't own one of those pickups, do you, 'cause
then I really don't want you behind me!

><snip>
>
>

>I seriously doubt I'll spend a lot more than you do on my brakes. This
>is particularly true because I use $10 rotors as mentioned in my
>previous post. Statements such as I will pay a lot more than you for
>my brakes are just off the wall and not credible.
>
>

If you are using those Chinese rotors, I really don't want you in the
car behind me!

But if you are really using the cheap rotors and pads, and doing them
yearly, you are doing more brake work than necessary! And spending a
lot more time doing brakes and paying for a lot more material than I
would ever have to.

G Henslee

2005-07-24, 9:11 pm

deans_an_asswipe@wdeans.com wrote:

>
>
> I use the same rotors everyone else does but I get them off of cars at
> the junk yard. If you look at just four cars chances are you will find
> a set with 80%+ life left. If it takes you 1/2 hour extra to buy your
> rotors this way you are earning $200/hr after tax vs. paying $65 each
> in the store.
>
> Plus you are recycling, reducing the trade deficit, and employing
> Americans (if you care about that sort of thing).
>

You're full of shit, deans_an_asswipe.

G Henslee

2005-07-24, 9:11 pm

deans@wdeans.com wrote:
>
>
> Reach for that maturity Henslee.
>

Reach for that little red ball Fido.

Mark and Kim Smith

2005-07-25, 5:21 am

do_not_spam_me@my-deja.com wrote:

> <snip>
>
>That's better, but beginners are much more likley to get in trouble
>with stuck bleeder screws, including rounding or shearing them off,
>than with damaging master cylinders.
>
><snip>
>
>
>

Then beginners shouldn't do the job until they have the proper tools and
know what they are doing. Plus, if proper maintenance is being done,
beginners won't have a problem with bleeder screws. Bleeder screws are
there for a reason.

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