|
Home > Archive > Home Repair forum > March 2006 > Taping Drywall
You are viewing an archived Text-only version of the thread.
To view this thread in it's original format and/or if you want to reply to
this thread please [click here]
|
|
| pakdog 2006-03-30, 1:21 am |
| I'm connecting new boards to existing wall and ceiling boards. Hopefully,
not a dumb question, but should I remove remaing old tape and retape
between the old and new boards or is there some better way?
Kevin
| |
|
| You have to re-tape. Tip- if you are connecting tapered edges of new
sheetrock to cut/ untapered edges, taper the old edges by crushing them
a little with a hammer/ mallet. This way, when you add mud and tape,
you will be filling a gap, rather than building a bulge. You will be
doing that anyway with extra coats, but easier to feather it out if you
don't overdo it at the outset.
| |
| pakdog 2006-03-30, 2:21 am |
| On Wed, 29 Mar 2006 21:23:52 -0800, Sev wrote:
> You have to re-tape. Tip- if you are connecting tapered edges of new
> sheetrock to cut/ untapered edges, taper the old edges by crushing them a
> little with a hammer/ mallet. This way, when you add mud and tape, you
> will be filling a gap, rather than building a bulge. You will be doing
> that anyway with extra coats, but easier to feather it out if you don't
> overdo it at the outset.
I'll taper and then tape them. It's my first major sheetrock job so I'm
learning as I go though I watched a pro doing it once. Just didn't catch him
while he was taping. How bad is it to have 1/4" to 1/2" gaps by light
switches and outlets? I measured twice and still had to cut three times to
fit.
Thx,
Kevin
| |
| mike urig 2006-03-30, 8:21 am |
| On Wed, 29 Mar 2006 20:34:30 -0800, pakdog wrote:
> I'm connecting new boards to existing wall and ceiling boards. Hopefully,
> not a dumb question, but should I remove remaing old tape and retape
> between the old and new boards or is there some better way?
>
> Kevin
http://www.drywallschool.com/protips.htm
| |
| Tim Mulvey 2006-03-30, 9:21 am |
|
"pakdog" <avail@uponrequest.org> wrote in message
news:pan.2006.03.30.06.13.28.852917@uponrequest.org...
> On Wed, 29 Mar 2006 21:23:52 -0800, Sev wrote:
>
>
> I'll taper and then tape them. It's my first major sheetrock job so I'm
> learning as I go though I watched a pro doing it once. Just didn't catch
> him
> while he was taping. How bad is it to have 1/4" to 1/2" gaps by light
> switches and outlets? I measured twice and still had to cut three times to
> fit.
>
> Thx,
> Kevin
Kevin, don't try crushing the butt edge to make a tapered edge. Crushing
the edges separates the paper from the gypsum and down the road at some
point you'll see it through the mud. When you hang the rock and you have
defects you cut the loose paper away then fill and tape as needed. All
you're doing by crushing edges is creating defects. Don't crush, pre-fill
the joint so you don't have that ledge, then finish as a butt joint. As far
as your elec boxes are concerned, if the cover plates hide the gaps you're
fine. They also make jumbo cover plates that hide more. Otherwise you need
to pre-fill the gaps then flat tape and finish.
Tim
| |
| Doug Miller 2006-03-30, 9:21 am |
| In article <pan.2006.03.30.06.13.28.852917@uponrequest.org>, "pakdog" <avail@uponrequest.org> wrote:
>How bad is it to have 1/4" to 1/2" gaps by light
>switches and outlets? I measured twice and still had to cut three times to
>fit.
1/4" is sloppy but still acceptable. 1/2" is not acceptable -- way too big a
gap. Fill that with joint compound (the setting type, that you mix with water,
not the pre-mixed stuff).
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
| |
| Doug Miller 2006-03-30, 9:21 am |
| In article <12QWf.864797$x96.130629@attbi_s72>, "Tim Mulvey" <mulvey@mchsi.com> wrote:
> As far
>as your elec boxes are concerned, if the cover plates hide the gaps you're
>fine. They also make jumbo cover plates that hide more.
Not correct -- see my other posts in this thread.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
| |
| Doug Miller 2006-03-30, 9:21 am |
| In article <imQWf.10385$tN3.6777@newssvr27.news.prodigy.net>, spambait@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:
>In article <pan.2006.03.30.06.13.28.852917@uponrequest.org>, "pakdog"
> <avail@uponrequest.org> wrote:
>
>
>1/4" is sloppy but still acceptable. 1/2" is not acceptable -- way too big a
>gap. Fill that with joint compound (the setting type, that you mix with water,
>not the pre-mixed stuff).
>
Oops, spoke too soon. Just looked it up: 1/4" is not acceptable either. Per
National Electrical Code, Article 314.21, the maximum acceptable gap around a
box is 1/8".
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
| |
| John F. 2006-03-30, 2:21 pm |
| I went to this drywall school web site.......am I missing something in the
sections on butt and recessed joint how to's? I don't see any mention of
acutally applying the tape.
"mike urig" <murig@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:pan.2006.03.30.12.00.16.582610@comcast.net...
> On Wed, 29 Mar 2006 20:34:30 -0800, pakdog wrote:
>
>
> http://www.drywallschool.com/protips.htm
>
>
>
| |
| Marvel 2006-03-30, 11:21 pm |
|
"John F." <globalone@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:2b2dnT4LGZWVhbHZnZ2dnUVZ_tudnZ2d@adelphia.com...
>I went to this drywall school web site.......am I missing something in the
>sections on butt and recessed joint how to's? I don't see any mention of
>acutally applying the tape.
>
>
> "mike urig" <murig@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:pan.2006.03.30.12.00.16.582610@comcast.net...
>
>
When you apply the tape if you use fiberglass it is easier but the most
important thing is, put a coat of mud on it cut the edges then wipe it down
smooth leave it to dry after three coats it will look good, do not leave any
edges or it will be a sanding nightmare.
Oh Yea do not crush the edges with a mallett that was a joke.
I'm repeating it...
put your tape on
apply a uniform coat of mud along the joint
cut the edges off both sides of the mud wiping the excess back in your pan,
then
pull your knife along the joint and wipe it smooth
let it dry
do two more coats same way
wipe it tight every time.
when it's ready to sand you will only need brush it down a bit
I have a tutorial on wall repair that might help.
| |
| RicodJour 2006-03-30, 11:21 pm |
|
John F. wrote:
> I went to this drywall school web site.......am I missing something in the
> sections on butt and recessed joint how to's? I don't see any mention of
> acutally applying the tape.
The section on 1st coat for butt joints shows the tape in the diagram.
R
|
|
|
|
|