|
Home > Archive > Home Repair forum > April 2006 > Fluctuating Electrical current
You are viewing an archived Text-only version of the thread.
To view this thread in it's original format and/or if you want to reply to
this thread please [click here]
| Author |
Fluctuating Electrical current
|
|
|
| I have a small home office containing. 1 computer/monitor, phone,
router, lamp and a laser printer. When I heave everything on and turn
on the printer it trips my battery backup power strip for a split
second.
This room has 4 outlets and shares a breaker with the bedroom across
the hall which is only running an alarm clock and a lamp. That room has
5 outlets.
would the fluctuation be an issue with the a wire? or perhaps the type
of service I have 100 or 200 amp? How would I find out what type of
service I have?
I have replaced the breaker in the box as a first step.
| |
| barry@sme-online.com 2006-04-03, 1:21 pm |
|
Ray wrote:
> I have a small home office containing. 1 computer/monitor, phone,
> router, lamp and a laser printer. When I heave everything on and turn
> on the printer it trips my battery backup power strip for a split
> second.
>
> This room has 4 outlets and shares a breaker with the bedroom across
> the hall which is only running an alarm clock and a lamp. That room has
> 5 outlets.
>
> would the fluctuation be an issue with the a wire? or perhaps the type
> of service I have 100 or 200 amp? How would I find out what type of
> service I have?
>
> I have replaced the breaker in the box as a first step.
Nope- none of the above. Want a general rule-of-thumb? Never, repeat
never,
connect laser printer to ups. In some office buildings, with system ups
power,
building mgmt will get very testy (rightfully) if you do.
Read the printer's docs on power draw to heat the fuser. For many, it's
over
500 watts- waaaaaay more than all the other stuff. With other stuff on,
and
fuser heating, you'll typically severely overload a typical single-user
ups.
If all else fails, RTFM.
John
| |
| hallerb@aol.com 2006-04-03, 1:21 pm |
| yeah dont put printers on UPS, unless you want to spend a grand or more
for the UPS
| |
|
| The printer is not plugged into the strip it is howerver on the same
circuit breaker. My point was that the printer drains enough power to
trip the the strip to battery backup.
There are times that with the printer off the lamps in the two rooms
blink and intermittently go slightly dim.
Is there a way to prevent this? other than Read The Fucking Manual?
Last I checked there wasn't a manual for most home electrical systems.
I think all of us in this group could do with out the flaming. If
that's your thing maybe try /. or some other of the kiddie sites.
| |
|
| Thanks for the tip Hal. I would never do so. Been in the biz too long
to not know better. ;)
| |
|
|
Ray wrote:
> The printer is not plugged into the strip it is howerver on the same
> circuit breaker. My point was that the printer drains enough power to
> trip the the strip to battery backup.
>
> There are times that with the printer off the lamps in the two rooms
> blink and intermittently go slightly dim.
>
> Is there a way to prevent this? other than Read The Fucking Manual?
> Last I checked there wasn't a manual for most home electrical systems.
> I think all of us in this group could do with out the flaming. If
> that's your thing maybe try /. or some other of the kiddie sites.
ahhh..... now it is clear. Obviously the draw from the printer on
startup is enough to cause enough loss in the house wires (not
including the UPS and strip) to drop the voltage below where the UPS
kicks in. Since wires are supposedly standardized in size in homes,
that's a bit mystifying, since it's not likely that somebody wired your
house with #20 gauge (is it?). Although the startup load with any sort
of toner appliance can be high, with the heater and all. One problem
may be that your home voltage is low to begin with; they vary quite a
bit from house to house, based on the power company's grid, I guess. I
don't know what you can do about that. For diagnostic purposes, I'd get
a decent digital VM and measure what the voltage falls to at the outlet
when the printer goes on, then measure the same thing down at the
distribution panel, and see if there is substantial difference between
the two.
| |
| Joseph Meehan 2006-04-03, 3:21 pm |
| Ray wrote:
> The printer is not plugged into the strip it is howerver on the same
> circuit breaker. My point was that the printer drains enough power to
> trip the the strip to battery backup.
>
> There are times that with the printer off the lamps in the two rooms
> blink and intermittently go slightly dim.
>
> Is there a way to prevent this? other than Read The Fucking Manual?
> Last I checked there wasn't a manual for most home electrical systems.
> I think all of us in this group could do with out the flaming. If
> that's your thing maybe try /. or some other of the kiddie sites.
I suggest a new circuit for that laser printer. A heavier wire would
likely help, but rather than run a replacement wire, I would just run a new
one. If you were closer to the breaker box, it might not have the same
problem. I would also suggest that a newer laser printer would be less
likely to do it as most don't draw as much power.
--
Joseph Meehan
Dia duit
| |
|
| Xref: number1.nntp.dca.giganews.com alt.home.repair:842826
"z" <gzuckier@snail-mail.net> wrote in message
news:1144082497.753861.212940@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
>
> Ray wrote:
>
> ahhh..... now it is clear. Obviously the draw from the printer on
> startup is enough to cause enough loss in the house wires (not
> including the UPS and strip) to drop the voltage below where the UPS
> kicks in. Since wires are supposedly standardized in size in homes,
> that's a bit mystifying, since it's not likely that somebody wired your
> house with #20 gauge (is it?). Although the startup load with any sort
> of toner appliance can be high, with the heater and all. One problem
> may be that your home voltage is low to begin with; they vary quite a
> bit from house to house, based on the power company's grid, I guess. I
> don't know what you can do about that. For diagnostic purposes, I'd get
> a decent digital VM and measure what the voltage falls to at the outlet
> when the printer goes on, then measure the same thing down at the
> distribution panel, and see if there is substantial difference between
> the two.
>
Your UPS may be able to do this for you and log it. It may, probably will,
show current fluctuations throughout the day. If you tell your utility about
them they will probably tell you its w/in spec. I think they allow about a
10% (Someone correct me if I'm wrong) change and call it normal. Seems like
your UPS is doing its job.
| |
| Toller 2006-04-03, 3:21 pm |
|
"Ray" <ray.bowles@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1144079127.733579.86860@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>I have a small home office containing. 1 computer/monitor, phone,
> router, lamp and a laser printer. When I heave everything on and turn
> on the printer it trips my battery backup power strip for a split
> second.
>
My laser printer dimmed my lights, which is pretty much the same problem you
have. I think they all do; only fix is to put it on its own circuit.
I have an ink jet now. Of course, it took two hours to print out my 80 page
tax return; but that doesn't happen often.
| |
|
| I just tested with my multimeter (Sperry DM-210A) It started at about
120 and 121.5 and dropped to 27 when. I tested the breaker at the box,
with my wifes help of course, and the reading was about the same. What
does that mean?
| |
|
| I should note that with the printer turned off the power occassionally
drops down to 117
| |
| John Hines 2006-04-03, 3:21 pm |
| "Ray" <ray.bowles@gmail.com> wrote:
>There are times that with the printer off the lamps in the two rooms
>blink and intermittently go slightly dim.
Laser printers suck a lot of power when warming up.
>Is there a way to prevent this? other than Read The Fucking Manual?
Put the laser printer on its own electrical circuit.
>Last I checked there wasn't a manual for most home electrical systems.
There is, it is called the NEC (National Electrical Code) in the USA.
Houses were not built in the old days (in the last few years) to handle
the electrical loads of today's appliances.
Your UPS is doing its job, and only the computer itself should be
powered by it. Printers and lights and stuff don't need to be protected,
and will handle the fluctuations fine.
--
NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth
| |
|
| Thanks for the tip on the NEC. I'm sure it's over my head, but worth a
look if I pick up a few nuggets of knowledge.
| |
| Eric Tonks 2006-04-03, 4:21 pm |
| If you are dropping down to 27 volts at the breaker panel when the printer
fires up, something is seriously wrong either with the connections in the
panel, in the meter socket, in the line to the street or in the electrical
connections on the utility's equipment.
Check if your neighbour has similar problems with high draw equipment
especially if they are on the same feed. Also call your local utility to see
if they can diagnose the problem in case it is their equipment.
"Ray" <ray.bowles@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1144086400.864717.284820@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...
>I just tested with my multimeter (Sperry DM-210A) It started at about
> 120 and 121.5 and dropped to 27 when. I tested the breaker at the box,
> with my wifes help of course, and the reading was about the same. What
> does that mean?
>
| |
| AZ Nomad 2006-04-03, 4:21 pm |
| On Mon, 3 Apr 2006 14:29:37 -0400, Eric Tonks <etonks@sunstormADD-DOT-COM> wrote:
>If you are dropping down to 27 volts at the breaker panel when the printer
>fires up, something is seriously wrong either with the connections in the
>panel, in the meter socket, in the line to the street or in the electrical
>connections on the utility's equipment.
if it was really dropping to 27 at the breaker box, all the lights in the
house would be going dim. Is that really what is happening?
| |
| Mark Lloyd 2006-04-03, 4:21 pm |
| On Mon, 03 Apr 2006 17:25:04 GMT, "Toller" <Toller@Yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>"Ray" <ray.bowles@gmail.com> wrote in message
>news:1144079127.733579.86860@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>My laser printer dimmed my lights, which is pretty much the same problem you
>have. I think they all do; only fix is to put it on its own circuit.
>
>I have an ink jet now. Of course, it took two hours to print out my 80 page
>tax return; but that doesn't happen often.
>
80 pages. I thought MY tax return was long, but not that long.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what
to have for lunch. Liberty is a well armed lamb
contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin
| |
|
|
Ray wrote:
> I just tested with my multimeter (Sperry DM-210A) It started at about
> 120 and 121.5 and dropped to 27 when. I tested the breaker at the box,
> with my wifes help of course, and the reading was about the same. What
> does that mean?
Drops to 27 volts? At the box?
Homina homina homina.....
| |
| George E. Cawthon 2006-04-03, 5:21 pm |
| Ray wrote:
> The printer is not plugged into the strip it is howerver on the same
> circuit breaker. My point was that the printer drains enough power to
> trip the the strip to battery backup.
>
> There are times that with the printer off the lamps in the two rooms
> blink and intermittently go slightly dim.
>
> Is there a way to prevent this? other than Read The Fucking Manual?
> Last I checked there wasn't a manual for most home electrical systems.
> I think all of us in this group could do with out the flaming. If
> that's your thing maybe try /. or some other of the kiddie sites.
>
Let's get practical. What printer, what does the
manual say the wattage is (or the label on the
bottom of the printer)? How much does power draw
on the battery backup strip? I doubt that it is
too much which would be about 1800 watts. So,
that leaves wires and connections. Make sure the
panel connections are good, then look at the
connections at the wall sockets. If you have the
backstab plugs that don't clamp down, switch to
sockets that screw the wire down.
If you still have problems, maybe your wiring is
inadequate.
| |
| Chris Lewis 2006-04-03, 6:21 pm |
| According to AZ Nomad <aznomad@PmunOgeBOX.com>:
> On Mon, 3 Apr 2006 14:29:37 -0400, Eric Tonks <etonks@sunstormADD-DOT-COM> wrote:
[color=darkred]
> if it was really dropping to 27 at the breaker box, all the lights in the
> house would be going dim. Is that really what is happening?
Or the breaker has high internal resistance. It'd be getting hot.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
| |
| John Hines 2006-04-03, 7:21 pm |
| "Ray" <ray.bowles@gmail.com> wrote:
>Thanks for the tip on the NEC. I'm sure it's over my head, but worth a
>look if I pick up a few nuggets of knowledge.
It is an expensive book, written to please lawyers <G>. There are books
written to explain the NEC to mere mortals.
http://www.codecheck.com/ is one of these.
--
NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth
| |
|
| Wattage on the printer is 600. Let's not forget the lights also blink
more frequently then I would like with the printer in the mix.
I've also noticed the fluctuations are more frequent when the central
air and heat are running. I have a dual zone a/c and heat if that
matters.
| |
|
|
Ray wrote:
> Wattage on the printer is 600. Let's not forget the lights also blink
> more frequently then I would like with the printer in the mix.
>
> I've also noticed the fluctuations are more frequent when the central
> air and heat are running. I have a dual zone a/c and heat if that
> matters.
Just stumbled onto this item today:
" You need a special tester that first measures the voltage at an
outlet, then places a brief but heavy load (typically 12, 15, or 20
amps) and measures the new voltage. The amount by which the voltage
drops tells you if you have a problem."
<http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/001186.php>
|
|
|
|
|