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Washing machine won't rinse or spin
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| We have a Whirlpool washing machine that will fill with water,
but won't rinse or spin. It is model # LA5330XSWO.
Any idea what the cause might be, and how I might easily
disgnose it or rule out some common causes?
With the right instructions I can replace a belt or most components,
but I'm not skilled at diagnosing electrical malfunctions.
Thanks in advance.
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| bamboo@localnet.com 2006-04-14, 3:21 pm |
| First thing you check is the lid switch.
You can check it by using a jumper to short it and see if it rinses and
spins then.
2 srews and 2 clips hold the cabinet on, 2 screws hold the switch in
place.
Not so hard
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"Al" <acunniff@advancedbionutrition.com> wrote in message
news:1145034506.537603.287840@v46g2000cwv.googlegroups.com...
> We have a Whirlpool washing machine that will fill with water,
> but won't rinse or spin. It is model # LA5330XSWO.
>
> Any idea what the cause might be, and how I might easily
> disgnose it or rule out some common causes?
>
Not a nice job trying to empty out that grubby soapy wash water; you can
siphon it (often at expense of a mouthful, no worse I suppose than
stealin...... Err. I mean 'siphoning' gas! And until you do the washer is
heavy! Use a little pump if you can.
Recent problem with our Kenmore was that the pump assembly had loosened one
of its two bolts and it had sagged just enough for a slot in the main
mechanism to not engage the arm which operates the valve that allows water
from the bottom of the tub to flow into the pump.
In our model the belt was fine and the pulley on the pump itself was
turning, as it should be, all the time. But no water was reaching it due to
above. First time in about 20 years we've had that problem. We did once,
maybe 10 years ago replace the belt. Teenager overloaded the washer!
Another problem was that on one occasion a contact on the timer became burnt
up. In our model there is no 'pump circuit' as such. Pump-out occurs when
the timer reaches certain points in its cycle and operates a solenoid which
is part of the motor driven main mechanism; the solenoid then engages the
main mechanism to the arm which operates the outlet valve on the pump, as
mentioned above.
Important point is; that whatever your model study the operational
sequence/timing chart and circuit diagram often/usually on the back of the
machine or under a metal plate. Otherwise you may just be 'poking' at it.
Apparently there is a good appliance repair site on the internet?
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| Appliance Repair Aid 2006-04-14, 10:21 pm |
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Al wrote:
> We have a Whirlpool washing machine that will fill with water,
> but won't rinse or spin. It is model # LA5330XSWO.
>
> Any idea what the cause might be, and how I might easily
> disgnose it or rule out some common causes?
>
> With the right instructions I can replace a belt or most components,
> but I'm not skilled at diagnosing electrical malfunctions.
>
> Thanks in advance.
Hi,
> It is model # LA5330XSWO
I got LA5330XSW0 to work for me.
> We have a Whirlpool washing machine that will fill with water,
> but won't rinse or spin
Fills and agitates but won't drain or spin? What happens instead? Goes
dead, hummmmmms only??
If the washer will fill and agitate but stops dead at the drain and
spin modes, check the lid switch and lid switch probe.
http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=3406
Standard dryer door/washer lid switch kit, 3-wire, with hardware.
jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/
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| On 14 Apr 2006 10:08:26 -0700, "Al"
<acunniff@advancedbionutrition.com> wrote:
>We have a Whirlpool washing machine that will fill with water,
>but won't rinse or spin. It is model # LA5330XSWO.
Does it agitate?
>Any idea what the cause might be, and how I might easily
>disgnose it or rule out some common causes?
>
>With the right instructions I can replace a belt or most components,
>but I'm not skilled at diagnosing electrical malfunctions.
>
>Thanks in advance.
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| On Fri, 14 Apr 2006 21:34:00 -0230, "Stan" <stanford@nf.sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>Not a nice job trying to empty out that grubby soapy wash water; you can
>siphon it (often at expense of a mouthful,
You can pre-fill a siphon hose, then (if necessary hold your thumb
over the end, and) turn the ends down. No sucking on the hose is
necessary.
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| The washer fills, then agitates, then the control knob continues to
move as if it thinks activity is taking place, but the machine does not
move into rinse or spin cycles.
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| hallerb@aol.com 2006-04-15, 10:21 am |
| most likely a bad saftety top door switch, designed so you dont get
your arm ripped off during spin out
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| Thanks, hallerb.
Is that the same as the lid switch mentioned above?
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| On 15 Apr 2006 06:00:03 -0700, "Al"
<acunniff@advancedbionutrition.com> wrote:
>The washer fills, then agitates, then the control knob continues to
>move as if it thinks activity is taking place, but the machine does not
>move into rinse or spin cycles.
You should have said this before. I don't think the timer runs when
the lid is open or the switch is open.
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| hallerb@aol.com 2006-04-15, 7:21 pm |
| yeah lid is safety top door switch, run machine till it fais then use a
screwdriver, pen or other small thin item and try tripping switch by
pushing it down inside the case nterlock switches although necessary
are a major source of troubles
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| I checked the machine and I believe the lid switch is the
problem. My switch only has two wires connected to it,
but the switch kits I see online all come with three-wire
switches. Can I make use of a three-wire switch, or do
I need to get a two-wire switch? Thanks.
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| hallerb@aol.com 2006-04-16, 10:21 am |
| dwitches are cheap why not uy one from a local parts store, remove
switch takew in with model number of machine.
in a pinch you can just bypass the swutchm connecting the 2 wires
together, although thatrs a bad idea for safety reasons.....
DONT EVER PUT HAND IN MACHINE WHEN ITS POWERED ON!
The minimum shipping for the swutch will kill any costs savings from
buying on line...
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| bamboo@localnet.com 2006-04-16, 2:21 pm |
| Yeah there is only one lid switch and a little tab in the lid that
pushes it.
Sometimes they break from slamming the lid.
Same concept as the light switch on a fridge or car door.
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| Update: Thanks for the advice, folks! It was indeed the
lid switch. A new one cost $21. Toughest part was
re-installing the little booger. I could remove it by sliding
it out just above the drum, but to re-install it I had to
remove the cover of the entire washer.
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| Update: Thanks for the advice, folks! It was indeed the
lid switch. A new one cost $21. Toughest part was
re-installing the little booger. I could remove it by sliding
it out just above the drum, but to re-install it I had to
remove the cover of the entire washer.
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