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Home > Archive > Home Repair forum > April 2006 > How to Replace Skil 12 Volt Batteries.
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How to Replace Skil 12 Volt Batteries.
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| Jack CC 2006-04-29, 4:21 pm |
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Has anyone replaced a rechargeable Skil 92927 12Volt battery or similar type
sealed plastic battery? There are no visible screws to remove the batteries from
the sealed casing. Where and how do I cut it up to replace the batteries,
finally how do I seal it safely. Any help or advice will be appreciated.
..
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| JoeMorgan@here.now 2006-04-29, 6:21 pm |
| throw the thing away and get something with a battery case that has
screws in it instead of being a welded plastic case. My dewalt gave up
the ghost last year and I wasted a day cutting open the case, packing
replacement sub C's back into it and then welding it with a soldering
gun. Not worth it.
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 13:40:54 -0500, Jack CC <ackcc@califsouth.com>
wrote:
>
>Has anyone replaced a rechargeable Skil 92927 12Volt battery or similar type
>sealed plastic battery? There are no visible screws to remove the batteries from
>the sealed casing. Where and how do I cut it up to replace the batteries,
>finally how do I seal it safely. Any help or advice will be appreciated.
>
>.
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| Jack CC 2006-04-29, 9:21 pm |
| On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 17:08:46 -0400, JoeMorgan@here.now wrote:
>throw the thing away and get something with a battery case that has
>screws in it instead of being a welded plastic case. My dewalt gave up
>the ghost last year and I wasted a day cutting open the case, packing
>replacement sub C's back into it and then welding it with a soldering
>gun. Not worth it.
A new replacement cost between $39 to $49. Can you tell me how
you cut plastic casing to replace the rechargeable batteries without
excessive damage and how did you welded it back. Thanks you.
[color=darkred]
>
>On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 13:40:54 -0500, Jack CC <ackcc@califsouth.com>
>wrote:
>
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| patrick mitchel 2006-04-29, 9:21 pm |
| I've done the cutting deed with a bit of copper wire , pounded to a flat
section then fastened to a weller soldering gun. The thin copper section
makes a passable heated scalpel to cut the case (in my "case" it was a
makita 9.6 stick pack). That allowed me access to the innards. I then used
black abs pipe cement to glue the thing back together. I'd look for the
thick portion of the case to make the cut if you can't find the seam that is
glued in the original pack.
Regarding repairing the pack, you can find replacement cells online or at
most of the hobbie shops that sell electric cars/planes as they also use the
same type cells. Aint gonna be a whole lot cheaper but you can have your
choice of cells (and greater capacity) from quality (panasonic,sanyo) to
potentially crap (no name chinese cells) Regarding joining the cells - most
of the homemade guys solder tabs to em -but you have to be careful on the
postive (button) side of the cells as thats where the vent (which is esily
overheated) is. I freeze the cells then do a quick solder on the button. Pat
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| Jack CC 2006-04-29, 10:21 pm |
| On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 17:11:21 -0700, "patrick mitchel" <patm317@hotmail.com>
wrote:
>I've done the cutting deed with a bit of copper wire , pounded to a flat
>section then fastened to a weller soldering gun. The thin copper section
>makes a passable heated scalpel to cut the case (in my "case" it was a
>makita 9.6 stick pack). That allowed me access to the innards. I then used
>black abs pipe cement to glue the thing back together. I'd look for the
>thick portion of the case to make the cut if you can't find the seam that is
>glued in the original pack.
> Regarding repairing the pack, you can find replacement cells online or at
>most of the hobbie shops that sell electric cars/planes as they also use the
>same type cells. Aint gonna be a whole lot cheaper but you can have your
>choice of cells (and greater capacity) from quality (panasonic,sanyo) to
>potentially crap (no name chinese cells) Regarding joining the cells - most
>of the homemade guys solder tabs to em -but you have to be careful on the
>postive (button) side of the cells as thats where the vent (which is esily
>overheated) is. I freeze the cells then do a quick solder on the button. Pat
I bought this almost unused Skil 3-3/8" cordless circular saw for $10. It's
slow, light weight and only good where you have very tight areas to work
with. I might as well throw it away if I have to spend $40 for the battery pack.
I dun mind spending twenty bucks or more and gain some experiences.
BTW, do you think the existing charger can recharge higher capacity cells?
Thank you for the information. I really appreciate the detail information.
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| Edwin Pawlowski 2006-04-30, 12:21 am |
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"Jack CC" <ackcc@califsouth.com> wrote in message
>
> I bought this almost unused Skil 3-3/8" cordless circular saw for $10.
> It's
> slow, light weight and only good where you have very tight areas to work
> with. I might as well throw it away if I have to spend $40 for the battery
> pack.
> I dun mind spending twenty bucks or more and gain some experiences.
> BTW, do you think the existing charger can recharge higher capacity cells?
>
> Thank you for the information. I really appreciate the detail
> information.
What you paid does not matter, it is what it is worth that should be the
deciding factor. You can have your pack rebuilt at www.primecell.com for
$33 plus shipping and get a more powerful pack for $47 If the saw is useful
and does a good job, go for it. Otherwise, buy a new saw for probably not
much more and get a year or so out of the battery pack.
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| patrick mitchel 2006-04-30, 3:21 am |
| > I bought this almost unused Skil 3-3/8" cordless circular saw for $10.
It's
> slow, light weight and only good where you have very tight areas to work
> with. I might as well throw it away if I have to spend $40 for the battery
pack.
> I dun mind spending twenty bucks or more and gain some experiences.
> BTW, do you think the existing charger can recharge higher capacity cells?
>
> Thank you for the information. I really appreciate the detail
information.
I'd say that if the existing pack is a nickel cadmium batteries and you
replace with higher capacity nicads(it would take a bit longer to charge),
you're probably safe in using the existing charger. Nickel metal hydride
cells require different charging dynamics. You'd probably kill the nimh
cells charging them with a charger meant for the other tech. If it's a 12 v
pack, you might even get by using a 12v lead acid battery with a short
cord(back to the freakin cord). Then the battery would be cheaper yet but
you'd need (sigh) a new charger.Worth it only if you're trying to squeeze
the max out of the dollar and don't want to put value on your time. Pat
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| On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 19:54:10 -0500, Jack CC <ackcc@califsouth.com>
wrote:
>On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 17:11:21 -0700, "patrick mitchel" <patm317@hotmail.com>
>wrote:
>
>
>I bought this almost unused Skil 3-3/8" cordless circular saw for $10. It's
>slow, light weight and only good where you have very tight areas to work
>with. I might as well throw it away if I have to spend $40 for the battery pack.
>I dun mind spending twenty bucks or more and gain some experiences.
>BTW, do you think the existing charger can recharge higher capacity cells?
>
>Thank you for the information. I really appreciate the detail information.
I ordered (and received) a pack of 18 1.2v nicad cells with solder
tabs off of ebay. Very pleased with the results. I love the cost and
convenience of replacing my own cells with nicads that almost twice as
powerful as the originals and will last twice as long.
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| Jack CC 2006-04-30, 8:21 pm |
| On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 23:02:40 -0700, "patrick mitchel" <patm317@hotmail.com>
wrote:
> I'd say that if the existing pack is a nickel cadmium batteries and you
>replace with higher capacity nicads(it would take a bit longer to charge),
>you're probably safe in using the existing charger. Nickel metal hydride
>cells require different charging dynamics. You'd probably kill the nimh
>cells charging them with a charger meant for the other tech. If it's a 12 v
>pack, you might even get by using a 12v lead acid battery with a short
>cord(back to the freakin cord). Then the battery would be cheaper yet but
>you'd need (sigh) a new charger.Worth it only if you're trying to squeeze
>the max out of the dollar and don't want to put value on your time. Pat
You and others have been very helpful. Initially I dun have the slightest idea
how to start if you have not been so helpful. I will open the plastic casing
with a flattening copper's tip attach to solder a gun or whatever and examine
the existing battery's cells. If the costs of getting similar new cells are not
expensive and the plastic casing can be resealed, I will forgo buying a new
power pack. I will post the result in a week or so, as I need to finish up the
repairs and painting of my garage.
Thank you :-).
..
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| Jack CC 2006-04-30, 9:21 pm |
| On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 17:08:46 -0400, JoeMorgan@here.now wrote:
>throw the thing away and get something with a battery case that has
>screws in it instead of being a welded plastic case. My dewalt gave up
>the ghost last year and I wasted a day cutting open the case, packing
>replacement sub C's back into it and then welding it with a soldering
>gun. Not worth it.
No offence please, I wish I am rich and could afford to throw that damn thing
away. If I could save the forty bucks and buy almost two gallons worth of good
paints I will do it. I need many more forty bucks worth paints, lumbers, a
garbage disposal, a dishwasher, a range, carpets for the house and etc.
..
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