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Home > Archive > Home Repair forum > July 2006 > Our through the Wall Sleeve Air Conditioner..
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Our through the Wall Sleeve Air Conditioner..
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| Our through the wall sleeve air conditioner no longer functions. It is
about 35 years old & time for a replacement. This is a condo, we have one
in the front room & one in the back, in our computer room. The current unit
is 8500 BTUs in a 170 sqft room plugged into a 220 outlet.
We have located several choices that appear to fit. In particular, two
units, a 8,000 & a 13,200 BTU that we can purchase & bring home today.
The 8000 BTU is a 110 & would be on the same circuit as the computers.
The 13200 unit is 220 & would be on it's own circuit.
Problem ONE: How the hell do I get the old one out?!? It seems to be in
there solid, VERY solid. Any suggestions are welcome & I understand that
answering this one without seeing it is difficult.
Problem TWO: the 13200 BTU unit is overkill I am sure. However, keeping it
on it's own circuit is necessary. Is there such a thing as an adapter to go
from the 220 to the 110?
TIA!
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"Bruin" <bruinwarBLAH@BLAHexcite.com> wrote in message
news:Vb6dnVGZIO9EkDXZnZ2dnUVZ_tednZ2d@comcast.com...
> Our through the wall sleeve air conditioner no longer functions. It is
> about 35 years old & time for a replacement. This is a condo, we have one
> in the front room & one in the back, in our computer room. The current
> unit is 8500 BTUs in a 170 sqft room plugged into a 220 outlet.
>
> We have located several choices that appear to fit. In particular, two
> units, a 8,000 & a 13,200 BTU that we can purchase & bring home today. The
> 8000 BTU is a 110 & would be on the same circuit as the computers.
> The 13200 unit is 220 & would be on it's own circuit.
>
>
> Problem ONE: How the hell do I get the old one out?!? It seems to be
> in there solid, VERY solid. Any suggestions are welcome & I understand
> that answering this one without seeing it is difficult.
>
> Problem TWO: the 13200 BTU unit is overkill I am sure. However, keeping
> it on it's own circuit is necessary. Is there such a thing as an adapter
> to go from the 220 to the 110?
>
> TIA!
>
>
UPDATE!
Problem ONE is solved. With the right persuader, one can move mountains.
All I need is a dolly to cart it out of here (& bring the new one in when I
purchase it).
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| There is not an adapter that will take you from 220 and deliver
110. The very fact that you asked suggests that the cure is
beyond your present capabilities. You would be much safer to hire
an electrician.
Your 220 circuit might have 2 110 legs with a ground. It may or
may not have a neutral depending on age and code requirements when
installed.
Your new 110 circuit needs 1 110 leg, a ground, and a neutral.
These changes can be made in the breaker panel with the wires that
you have, but only by someone who knows what it is they are doing.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net
"Bruin" <bruinwarBLAH@BLAHexcite.com> wrote in message
news:Vb6dnVGZIO9EkDXZnZ2dnUVZ_tednZ2d@comcast.com...
> Our through the wall sleeve air conditioner no longer functions.
> It is about 35 years old & time for a replacement. This is a
> condo, we have one in the front room & one in the back, in our
> computer room. The current unit is 8500 BTUs in a 170 sqft room
> plugged into a 220 outlet.
>
> We have located several choices that appear to fit. In
> particular, two units, a 8,000 & a 13,200 BTU that we can
> purchase & bring home today. The 8000 BTU is a 110 & would be on
> the same circuit as the computers.
> The 13200 unit is 220 & would be on it's own circuit.
>
>
> Problem ONE: How the hell do I get the old one out?!? It
> seems to be in there solid, VERY solid. Any suggestions are
> welcome & I understand that answering this one without seeing it
> is difficult.
>
> Problem TWO: the 13200 BTU unit is overkill I am sure.
> However, keeping it on it's own circuit is necessary. Is there
> such a thing as an adapter to go from the 220 to the 110?
>
> TIA!
>
>
| |
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| Bruin wrote:
> Our through the wall sleeve air conditioner no longer
> functions. It is about 35 years old & time for a
> replacement. This is a condo, we have one in the front
> room & one in the back, in our computer room. The current
> unit is 8500 BTUs in a 170 sqft room plugged into a 220
> outlet.
> We have located several choices that appear to fit. In
> particular, two units, a 8,000 & a 13,200 BTU that we can
> purchase & bring home today. The 8000 BTU is a 110 & would be
> on the same circuit as the
> computers. The 13200 unit is 220 & would be on it's own
> circuit.
>
>
> Problem ONE: How the hell do I get the old one out?!? It
> seems to be in there solid, VERY solid. Any
> suggestions are welcome & I understand that answering this
> one without seeing it is difficult.
> Problem TWO: the 13200 BTU unit is overkill I am sure.
> However, keeping it on it's own circuit is necessary. Is
> there such a thing as an adapter to go from the 220 to the
> 110?
No, but a contractor could make short work out of converting the
outlet to a pair of 110's. Any chance the 13200 is also
available in 220?
HTH
Pop
>
> TIA!
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"Pop" <nobody@devnull.spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:sdWpg.1166$J47.58@trndny02...
> Bruin wrote:
>
> No, but a contractor could make short work out of converting the outlet to
> a pair of 110's. Any chance the 13200 is also available in 220?
>
> HTH
> Pop
>
>
>
>
Excellent suggestion! Convert the 220 into 2 110s.
As I stated in another reply, I got the 8000 BTU unit installed & running.
Room when from 89 to 77F & is still dropping.
Thanks for your reply!
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| >> Our through the wall sleeve air conditioner no longer functions. It is
[color=darkred]
> There is not an adapter that will take you from 220 and deliver 110. The
> very fact that you asked suggests that the cure is beyond your present
> capabilities. You would be much safer to hire an electrician.
>
> Your 220 circuit might have 2 110 legs with a ground. It may or may not
> have a neutral depending on age and code requirements when installed.
>
> Your new 110 circuit needs 1 110 leg, a ground, and a neutral. These
> changes can be made in the breaker panel with the wires that you have, but
> only by someone who knows what it is they are doing.
>
> --
> ______________________________
> Keep the whole world singing . . . .
> DanG (remove the sevens)
> dgriff237@7cox.net
>
Yes, it's true, I other than a bit of irrigation work, I have never done
anything electrical. The fact that I asked about a converter/adapter is
because the salesguy at an appliance dealer told me they existed. The guy
at Radio Shack tried to sell me a $48 & a $18 set of converters he claimed
would do the job. I pointed out there was no ground & he tells me "...it's
not needed." HAHAHA
Right now I got new 8000 BTU running & it is running well. With all three
computers. Computers are all on UPSs & seem to be ok. I hope to get
someone to convert the existing 220 to 110 as another suggested.
Thanks for your response!
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| On Sun, 2 Jul 2006 19:13:46 -0400, "Bruin"
<bruinwarBLAH@BLAHexcite.com> wrote:
>
>Yes, it's true, I other than a bit of irrigation work, I have never done
>anything electrical. The fact that I asked about a converter/adapter is
>because the salesguy at an appliance dealer told me they existed. The guy
>at Radio Shack tried to sell me a $48 & a $18 set of converters he claimed
>would do the job. I pointed out there was no ground & he tells me "...it's
>not needed." HAHAHA
He's selling kits that will allow you to plug your electric razor into
220 European outlets, IF your razor has a switch to change it to 220.
So he was close.  And your razor doesn't need a ground.
>
>Right now I got new 8000 BTU running & it is running well. With all three
>computers. Computers are all on UPSs & seem to be ok. I hope to get
>someone to convert the existing 220 to 110 as another suggested.
Or buy a 220 Volt AC. There are none that are smaller? 220 V
appliances are more efficient than 110. OTOH, too big a unit is not
good. I forget how to explain that.
>Thanks for your response!
>
>
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"mm" <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:h5pga25983rvq29kavq6lls9lbfp2k4e3r@4ax.com...[color=darkred]
> On Sun, 2 Jul 2006 19:13:46 -0400, "Bruin"
> <bruinwarBLAH@BLAHexcite.com> wrote:
>
>
> He's selling kits that will allow you to plug your electric razor into
> 220 European outlets, IF your razor has a switch to change it to 220.
> So he was close. And your razor doesn't need a ground.
>
> Or buy a 220 Volt AC. There are none that are smaller? 220 V
> appliances are more efficient than 110. OTOH, too big a unit is not
> good. I forget how to explain that.
>
No, the 13200 BTU was the smallest I could find locally. An item this large
is usually pricey to have it shipped plus we needed it ASAP. I bought
the 8000 BTU unit & it is working & the computer room is darn right chilly
now.
Thanks for your response!
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| Edwin Pawlowski 2006-07-02, 9:25 pm |
|
"Bruin" <bruinwarBLAH@BLAHexcite.com> wrote in message
>
> No, the 13200 BTU was the smallest I could find locally. An item this
> large is usually pricey to have it shipped plus we needed it ASAP. I
> bought the 8000 BTU unit & it is working & the computer room is darn right
> chilly now.
You did the right thing. Going that large, the unit would not run long
enough for proper dehumidification. You end up with a cold clammy room.
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| Tekkie® 2006-07-03, 9:25 pm |
| mm posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.
> 220 V
> appliances are more efficient than 110
>
How so?
--
Tekkie
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| On Mon, 3 Jul 2006 22:14:02 -0400, Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net> wrote:
>mm posted for all of us...
> I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.
Fwiw, I didn't say that.
But I did say this.
[color=darkred]
>How so?
That's what I've heard for 40 years. Maybe an engineer can explain
it.
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| Edwin Pawlowski 2006-07-04, 3:25 am |
|
"mm" <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
>
> But I did say this.
>
>
> That's what I've heard for 40 years. Maybe an engineer can explain
> it.
Minor differences. Motors will start faster, pull less amps (but the same
watts that we pay for ) so they can use smaller wires. Operating cost is
the same.
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| On Tue, 04 Jul 2006 03:55:18 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <esp@snet.net>
wrote:
>
>"mm" <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
>
>Minor differences. Motors will start faster, pull less amps (but the same
>watts that we pay for ) so they can use smaller wires. Operating cost is
>the same.
Hmmm. This post is very destructive to my mental state! It's
somethign like being told my wife of 40 years has always been cheating
on me.
>
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| Tekkie® 2006-07-05, 9:25 pm |
| mm posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.
> On Tue, 04 Jul 2006 03:55:18 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <esp@snet.net>
> wrote:
>
>
> Hmmm. This post is very destructive to my mental state! It's
> somethign like being told my wife of 40 years has always been cheating
> on me.
>
>
Only the last 7 years, she had a lesbian relationship before that.
--
Tekkie
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| David Combs 2006-07-30, 1:25 pm |
| In article <Vb6dnVGZIO9EkDXZnZ2dnUVZ_tednZ2d@comcast.com>,
Bruin <bruinwarBLAH@BLAHexcite.com> wrote:
>Problem TWO: the 13200 BTU unit is overkill I am sure. However, keeping it
>on it's own circuit is necessary. Is there such a thing as an adapter to go
>from the 220 to the 110?
>
>TIA!
>
>
I've learned that overkill is *good*!
That is, if you want to save money on the AC power-usage.
You can run it for maybe 15min each hour or two, and
it gets cold enough, and gets rid of the humidity.
(Of course, only if you don't mind being the controller
for it.)
Works for me.
David
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| David Combs 2006-07-30, 1:25 pm |
| In article <eairs3$rj$1@reader2.panix.com>,
David Combs <dkcombs@panix.com> wrote:
>In article <Vb6dnVGZIO9EkDXZnZ2dnUVZ_tednZ2d@comcast.com>,
>Bruin <bruinwarBLAH@BLAHexcite.com> wrote:
>
>
>I've learned that overkill is *good*!
>
>That is, if you want to save money on the AC power-usage.
>
>You can run it for maybe 15min each hour or two, and
>it gets cold enough, and gets rid of the humidity.
>
>(Of course, only if you don't mind being the controller
>for it.)
>
>Works for me.
>
>David
>
Oh, I must add that I place a LARGE fan in front of the AC,
and it blasts the air into a circuit around the room.
So most (maybe all?) of the humid air gets run through the AC.
D.
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