Home Repair forum - replace sump pump switch?

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replace sump pump switch?

Heathcliff

2007-05-29, 1:25 pm

I have a sump pump with a few years of moderate use on it. I replaced
it recently because the float switch had become unreliable. Now that
it's the "spare" sump pump, I am wondering if I can get a replacement
switch for it. It's a submersible sump pump and the float switch is
the kind with a cylindrical float at the end of a foot or so of wire
and it just bobs up and down. Just wondering if it's possible to
replace just that part. It appears that where the wire enters the
pump housing there is a nut that holds it on somehow; haven't tried to
remove that. Testing it in a bucket outside, as near as I can tell
the pump works fine but the float switch sometimes doesn't turn it on
even though i'ts in the upright position.

dnoyeB

2007-05-29, 5:25 pm

On Tue, 29 May 2007 10:08:20 -0700, Heathcliff wrote:

> I have a sump pump with a few years of moderate use on it. I replaced
> it recently because the float switch had become unreliable. Now that
> it's the "spare" sump pump, I am wondering if I can get a replacement
> switch for it. It's a submersible sump pump and the float switch is
> the kind with a cylindrical float at the end of a foot or so of wire
> and it just bobs up and down. Just wondering if it's possible to
> replace just that part. It appears that where the wire enters the
> pump housing there is a nut that holds it on somehow; haven't tried to
> remove that. Testing it in a bucket outside, as near as I can tell
> the pump works fine but the float switch sometimes doesn't turn it on
> even though i'ts in the upright position.

absolutely. did you search the internet? I believe its called a tethered
float switch. You don't necessarily have to use the same kindn either.

Heathcliff

2007-05-29, 5:25 pm

On May 29, 1:28 pm, "dnoyeB" <n...@none.net> wrote:
> On Tue, 29 May 2007 10:08:20 -0700, Heathcliff wrote:
>
> absolutely. did you search the internet? I believe its called a tethered
> float switch. You don't necessarily have to use the same kindn either.

Yes I have searched without joy. If you can point me to a specific
source that would be much appreciated. -- H

Heathcliff

2007-05-29, 5:25 pm

2007-05-30, 5:25 pm

On 29 May 2007 14:48:13 -0700, Heathcliff
<heathcliff_bambino@hotmail.com> wrote:

>On May 29, 1:28 pm, "dnoyeB" <n...@none.net> wrote:
>
> Yes I have searched without joy. If you can point me to a specific
>source that would be much appreciated. -- H

I searched on teathered float switch shipping and got

http://www.rockaroundtheblock.com.a...ries.asp?cID=37 OR
http://72.14.209.104/search?q=cache...l=us&lr=lang_en|lang_iw|lang_es&client=firefox-a

And

http://www.pumpshop.us/floats-and-controls.html OR
http://72.14.209.104/search?q=cache...l=us&lr=lang_en|lang_iw|lang_es&client=firefox-a

46 to 85 dollars plus shipping. One model will iiuc control two
pumps, although maybe it would be better to have a separate switch for
each????

Or you might be able to open up the current one and replace only the
electric switch if that seems to be the problem. I wouldn't be
surprised if the real problme is that the switch is loose in its
housing and only has to be glued back in place. Regluing so that it's
waterproof would be the hard part here, but maybe not so hard.

dnoyeB

2007-05-30, 9:25 pm

On Tue, 29 May 2007 13:56:37 -0700, Heathcliff wrote:

> Yes I have searched without joy. If you can point me to a specific
> source that would be much appreciated. -- H

I would start by searching for the company that makes your sump pump.

my pump is a Lowes version of a Wayne pump

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?acti...pages/sump.html

my switch seems to get dirty sometimes. I cleaned it.

Chris Lewis

2007-05-31, 1:25 pm

According to mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com>:
> 46 to 85 dollars plus shipping. One model will iiuc control two
> pumps, although maybe it would be better to have a separate switch for
> each????

> Or you might be able to open up the current one and replace only the
> electric switch if that seems to be the problem. I wouldn't be
> surprised if the real problme is that the switch is loose in its
> housing and only has to be glued back in place. Regluing so that it's
> waterproof would be the hard part here, but maybe not so hard.

Perhaps more likely that the switch assembly has gotten corroded and
gotten stuck, or the contacts have gotten welded. A couple hard shakes
or knocks against something might clear up the problem, but unless you
can see the contacts, I wouldn't trust it except under "supervision" ;-)

If you were to replace it, I'd be worried about getting the pump itself
sealed again.

If you need to replace the switch, it's worth considering a plug-type
switch instead of a direct wire. Bypass the switch circuit inside the pump,
so the pump itself is always on, and seal the housing thoroughly. Then use a
switch like 1002715 on http://www.pumpshop.us/pump-switches.html. Then
if the pump or switch fails again, it's easier to replace, and you still have
usable components.

I converted a pump having one of those for utility duty (emptying a
pool cover), simply by removing the switch. But I'm using the switch
for something else too, sorry ;-)

Local well pump shops should have these things on the shelf.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

2007-06-02, 3:25 am

On Thu, 31 May 2007 15:57:22 -0000, clewis@nortelnetworks.com (Chris
Lewis) wrote:

>According to mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com>:
>
>
>Perhaps more likely that the switch assembly has gotten corroded and
>gotten stuck, or the contacts have gotten welded. A couple hard shakes
>or knocks against something might clear up the problem, but unless you
>can see the contacts, I wouldn't trust it except under "supervision" ;-)
>
>If you were to replace it, I'd be worried about getting the pump itself
>sealed again.

I looked at one of the webpages I cited, farther down, and it turns
out the switch they sell doesn't use a separate switch. It's a switch
constructed within the float, and it uses a metal ball that moves
between contacts, or not between them when the pump is off.

If this weren't a critical use, I might still try it, but you're
right, one doesn't want his sump pump to break.
>
>If you need to replace the switch, it's worth considering a plug-type
>switch instead of a direct wire. Bypass the switch circuit inside the pump,
>so the pump itself is always on, and seal the housing thoroughly. Then use a
>switch like 1002715 on http://www.pumpshop.us/pump-switches.html. Then
>if the pump or switch fails again, it's easier to replace, and you still have
>usable components.
>
>I converted a pump having one of those for utility duty (emptying a
>pool cover), simply by removing the switch. But I'm using the switch
>for something else too, sorry ;-)
>
>Local well pump shops should have these things on the shelf.

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