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Home > Archive > Home Repair forum > June 2007 > Drywall & Receptacles
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Drywall & Receptacles
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| I bought a house, a real fixer-upper  One problem is that a lot of the
holes cut in the drywall to fit around the receptacles are too large, so
that the fins on the plug don't catch - it just keeps going till it's flush
with the box, which of course if flush with the stud. So, the plug sits
about 1/2 inch too deep.
What are some methods for fixing this? The best way I could think of is to
buy some longer screws, and some small, thick washers. Any suggestions?
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| You can use washers or spacers, and metal painted or brass plates to help
support the outlets
"Kitep" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:46608675$0$15004$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
>I bought a house, a real fixer-upper One problem is that a lot of the
>holes cut in the drywall to fit around the receptacles are too large, so
>that the fins on the plug don't catch - it just keeps going till it's flush
>with the box, which of course if flush with the stud. So, the plug sits
>about 1/2 inch too deep.
>
> What are some methods for fixing this? The best way I could think of is
> to buy some longer screws, and some small, thick washers. Any
> suggestions?
>
>
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| On Fri, 1 Jun 2007 16:49:52 -0400, "Kitep" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:
>I bought a house, a real fixer-upper One problem is that a lot of the
>holes cut in the drywall to fit around the receptacles are too large, so
>that the fins on the plug don't catch - it just keeps going till it's flush
>with the box, which of course if flush with the stud. So, the plug sits
>about 1/2 inch too deep.
>
>What are some methods for fixing this? The best way I could think of is to
>buy some longer screws, and some small, thick washers. Any suggestions?
>
Buy longer screws. I have never tried to buy any, but what we used on
the job was some very small diameter pneumatic tubing cut to length
for the spacers.
You should also consider getting some insulated gaskets for the
outlets. Using them on the outer walls are great power savers.
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| John Grabowski 2007-06-01, 5:25 pm |
| Caddy makes something for this:
http://www.erico.com/products/CADDYcfcDvcLvlrRetnr.asp
You will probably have to go to an electrical supply company to get them.
Make sure that you have the part number.
You could also try using oversized metal wall plates to provide support.
I have used 6/32 hex nuts behind the device strap to keep the device from
being pushed back. I have also seen other electricians use a piece of solid
#14 or #12 copper wire coiled around the screw.
"Kitep" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:46608675$0$15004$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> I bought a house, a real fixer-upper One problem is that a lot of the
> holes cut in the drywall to fit around the receptacles are too large, so
> that the fins on the plug don't catch - it just keeps going till it's
flush
> with the box, which of course if flush with the stud. So, the plug sits
> about 1/2 inch too deep.
>
> What are some methods for fixing this? The best way I could think of is
to
> buy some longer screws, and some small, thick washers. Any suggestions?
>
>
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| In article <46608675$0$15004$4c368faf@roadrunner.com>, nobody@nowhere.com
says...
>
>I bought a house, a real fixer-upper One problem is that a lot of the
>holes cut in the drywall to fit around the receptacles are too large, so
>that the fins on the plug don't catch - it just keeps going till it's flush
>with the box, which of course if flush with the stud. So, the plug sits
>about 1/2 inch too deep.
>
>What are some methods for fixing this? The best way I could think of is to
>buy some longer screws, and some small, thick washers. Any suggestions?
Well, the first problem is that the boxes are not installed correctly. They are
not supposed to be flush with the stud, they are supposed to stick out 1/2" and
be flush with the drywall. The mounting strap on the receptacles should rest on
the box and the drywall at the same time.
--
Dennis
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| Meat Plow 2007-06-01, 5:25 pm |
| On Fri, 01 Jun 2007 17:51:25 -0400, Terry wrote:
> On Fri, 1 Jun 2007 16:49:52 -0400, "Kitep" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:
>
>
> Buy longer screws. I have never tried to buy any, but what we used on
> the job was some very small diameter pneumatic tubing cut to length
> for the spacers.
>
> You should also consider getting some insulated gaskets for the
> outlets. Using them on the outer walls are great power savers.
I've seen some blue work boxes that had fingers on two ends that had to be
an inch long.
--
#1 Offishul Ruiner of Usenet, March 2007
#1 Usenet XXXXXXX, March 2007
#1 Bartlo Pset, March 13-24 2007
#10 Most hated Usenetizen of all time
#8 AUK Hate Machine Cog
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004
COOSN-266-06-25794
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| Nate Nagel 2007-06-01, 8:25 pm |
| Kitep wrote:
> I bought a house, a real fixer-upper One problem is that a lot of the
> holes cut in the drywall to fit around the receptacles are too large, so
> that the fins on the plug don't catch - it just keeps going till it's flush
> with the box, which of course if flush with the stud. So, the plug sits
> about 1/2 inch too deep.
>
> What are some methods for fixing this? The best way I could think of is to
> buy some longer screws, and some small, thick washers. Any suggestions?
>
>
I swear I saw metal support plates for just this problem in the dale
electric catalog but I can't seem to come up with the right combination
of search terms to find you a link to their web site. I was going to
order a couple next time I had to order any electrical supplies and I
haven't had to order anything in a while.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
| |
| Nate Nagel 2007-06-01, 8:25 pm |
| Nate Nagel wrote:
> Kitep wrote:
>
>
> I swear I saw metal support plates for just this problem in the dale
> electric catalog but I can't seem to come up with the right combination
> of search terms to find you a link to their web site. I was going to
> order a couple next time I had to order any electrical supplies and I
> haven't had to order anything in a while.
>
> nate
>
found what I was thinking of
http://dale-electric.com/search.php...sultsPerPage=25
does this help?
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
| |
| aemeijers 2007-06-01, 8:25 pm |
|
"Nate Nagel" <njnagel@roosters.net> wrote in message
news:f3q913159l@news2.newsguy.com...
> Nate Nagel wrote:
>
> found what I was thinking of
>
> http://dale-electric.com/search.php...sultsPerPage=25
>
Nope, that ain't it- those are clips to retain a floating box. What OP
wants, and I'm suprised nobody mentioned it, since they are discussed on
here regularly, are box extension rings. All the big-boxes carry them,
2-packs for about three bucks. Usually plastic these days. I had to install
several here, because previous owner was an idiot, and didn't reposition
boxes when he added T&G in living room and rocked garage, badly. Code does
NOT allow just using standoffs or washers- no flammable materials can face
the installed device.
aem sends.....
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| Nate Nagel 2007-06-01, 8:25 pm |
| aemeijers wrote:
> "Nate Nagel" <njnagel@roosters.net> wrote in message
> news:f3q913159l@news2.newsguy.com...
>
>
> Nope, that ain't it- those are clips to retain a floating box. What OP
> wants, and I'm suprised nobody mentioned it, since they are discussed on
> here regularly, are box extension rings. All the big-boxes carry them,
> 2-packs for about three bucks. Usually plastic these days. I had to install
> several here, because previous owner was an idiot, and didn't reposition
> boxes when he added T&G in living room and rocked garage, badly. Code does
> NOT allow just using standoffs or washers- no flammable materials can face
> the installed device.
>
> aem sends.....
>
>
Nope, I know what you're thinking of...
http://minerallac.com/minerallac%20catalog.pdf
this actually is intended for just this application. I need some
because the plaster in my walls is busted away around some receptacles
just around the plaster ears for some reason. scroll down to pages 27
and 155 and you'll see what I mean.
Oddly enough, the Madison hangers are on the very previous pages of the
catalog
nate
dammit, ya made me look
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
| |
| Steve Barker 2007-06-02, 3:25 am |
| I just referbed (sp?) a 1907 and rewired completely. A lot of the outlets
and switches had been spaced out with short pieces of some sort of 3/16"
rubber hose product. Seems to have worked pretty well. As you mentioned,
you'll (possibly) need longer screws.
--
Steve Barker
"Kitep" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:46608675$0$15004$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
>I bought a house, a real fixer-upper One problem is that a lot of the
>holes cut in the drywall to fit around the receptacles are too large, so
>that the fins on the plug don't catch - it just keeps going till it's flush
>with the box, which of course if flush with the stud. So, the plug sits
>about 1/2 inch too deep.
>
> What are some methods for fixing this? The best way I could think of is
> to buy some longer screws, and some small, thick washers. Any
> suggestions?
>
>
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| John Grabowski 2007-06-02, 1:25 pm |
| I forgot to mention box extenders: http://www.aifittings.com/m_9.htm
"John Grabowski" <jgrabows1@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:VB08i.305$WK1.271@newsfe12.lga...
> Caddy makes something for this:
> http://www.erico.com/products/CADDYcfcDvcLvlrRetnr.asp
> You will probably have to go to an electrical supply company to get them.
> Make sure that you have the part number.
>
> You could also try using oversized metal wall plates to provide support.
>
> I have used 6/32 hex nuts behind the device strap to keep the device from
> being pushed back. I have also seen other electricians use a piece of
solid
> #14 or #12 copper wire coiled around the screw.
>
>
> "Kitep" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
> news:46608675$0$15004$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
the[color=darkred]
> flush
> to
>
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| Something an electrician always has:
Strip some #12 solid. Wrap it around your Phillips screwdriver in
a tight coil. Slide it off the screwdriver. Cut the coils to the
appropriate length, and slide the recep screw through the coil.
Yes, you may need a longer screw.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net
"aemeijers" <aemeijers@att.net> wrote in message
news:fh38i.88756$p47.48811@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>
> "Nate Nagel" <njnagel@roosters.net> wrote in message
> news:f3q913159l@news2.newsguy.com...
> Nope, that ain't it- those are clips to retain a floating box.
> What OP wants, and I'm suprised nobody mentioned it, since they
> are discussed on here regularly, are box extension rings. All
> the big-boxes carry them, 2-packs for about three bucks. Usually
> plastic these days. I had to install several here, because
> previous owner was an idiot, and didn't reposition boxes when he
> added T&G in living room and rocked garage, badly. Code does NOT
> allow just using standoffs or washers- no flammable materials
> can face the installed device.
>
> aem sends.....
>
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| Thanks for the tips guys. I knew someone would have a solution somewhere,
but my attempt to Google a solution was stymied by my word choices.
| |
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| On Sat, 2 Jun 2007 22:58:09 -0400, "Kitep" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:
>Thanks for the tips guys. I knew someone would have a solution somewhere,
>but my attempt to Google a solution was stymied by my word choices.
>
>
another solution nobodies mentioned is to go to your local big box
store and go the isle of the electrical section where all the
electrical doodads in little plastic bags are hung on hooks. You know,
where the wirenuts are. There you will find stackable green plastic
spacers made just for this. They're aout 1/16 inch think and have
interlocking snaps to stack them up as thick as you want.
dickm
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"dicko" <drwho@universalclock.com> wrote in message
news:prc563lvg2ojg3iks5ptb21j0k75kq2g8v@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 2 Jun 2007 22:58:09 -0400, "Kitep" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:
>
> another solution nobodies mentioned is to go to your local big box
> store and go the isle of the electrical section where all the
> electrical doodads in little plastic bags are hung on hooks. You know,
> where the wirenuts are. There you will find stackable green plastic
> spacers made just for this. They're aout 1/16 inch think and have
> interlocking snaps to stack them up as thick as you want.
>
> dickm
As luck would have it, before I posted my question I did go to that very
aisle looking for something just like that. I obviously missed it, just
like I missed the box extenders when I was in the box aisle. I think I was
seriously distracted by the store closing in 5 minutes and needing to get a
few other things that I knew for sure existed (which is also why I didn't
track down somebody to ask). I'm looking forward to finding the things I
missed next time I go there.
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| Nexus7 2007-06-03, 9:25 pm |
| On Jun 1, 4:56 pm, "John Grabowski" <jgrabo...@optonline.net> wrote:
> I have used 6/32 hex nuts behind the device strap to keep the device from
> being pushed back.
I think this is the best solution - there's just one nut, no worrying
about 3-4 washers; it attaches the outlet solidly to the box which is
itself attached to the stud, so everything is robust; and if the box
is metal, the outlet or switch body is solidly grounded.
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| aemeijers 2007-06-03, 9:25 pm |
|
"Nexus7" <ac25kV@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1180921745.608439.24070@k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
> On Jun 1, 4:56 pm, "John Grabowski" <jgrabo...@optonline.net> wrote:
>
> I think this is the best solution - there's just one nut, no worrying
> about 3-4 washers; it attaches the outlet solidly to the box which is
> itself attached to the stud, so everything is robust; and if the box
> is metal, the outlet or switch body is solidly grounded.
>
Again, code sez that if the box edge isn't flush with wall surface, you need
something between the device and any combustible materials, in case of
sparking. I agree, a fire actually starting that way is a one-in-a-million
shot, but when it comes time to sell, if the inspector actually pulls that
particular outlet cover, you;ll have to redo it anyway. As cheap as
extension rings are, may as well do it that way in the first place.
aem sends...
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"aemeijers" <aemeijers@att.net> wrote in message
news:bHK8i.100425$p47.99379@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>
> "Nexus7" <ac25kV@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1180921745.608439.24070@k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
> Again, code sez that if the box edge isn't flush with wall surface, you
> need something between the device and any combustible materials, in case
> of sparking. I agree, a fire actually starting that way is a
> one-in-a-million shot, but when it comes time to sell, if the inspector
> actually pulls that particular outlet cover, you;ll have to redo it
> anyway. As cheap as extension rings are, may as well do it that way in the
> first place.
>
> aem sends...
Just so you know, I do plan to use the box extenders. I do like to follow
code just to avoid problems in the future.
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"Kitep" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:46608675$0$15004$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
>I bought a house, a real fixer-upper One problem is that a lot of the
>holes cut in the drywall to fit around the receptacles are too large, so
>that the fins on the plug don't catch - it just keeps going till it's flush
>with the box, which of course if flush with the stud. So, the plug sits
>about 1/2 inch too deep.
>
Finally picked up some box extenders, so I thought I'd give an update.
The extenders didn't work. They depend on fins catching the drywall, and
the people who put in the drywall didn't unscrew the plugs, they just cut a
bigger hole. So here's what I did:
I bought a regular box. Set my table saw for 3/8" and cut. Put the
rectangle in the hole, and found I really needed 3/8" on 1 corner and 1/8"
on the opposite corner. So I marked it with a permanent marker. Then
pulled out my angle grinder and grinded away. Now it extends the box flush
with the wall and is code-compliant. Cheap too, if you don't count my time
Now I just have to do it again & again & again (about 12 times total).
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| Kitep wrote:
> "Kitep" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
> news:46608675$0$15004$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
>
> Finally picked up some box extenders, so I thought I'd give an update.
>
> The extenders didn't work. They depend on fins catching the drywall,
> and the people who put in the drywall didn't unscrew the plugs, they
> just cut a bigger hole. So here's what I did:
>
> I bought a regular box. Set my table saw for 3/8" and cut. Put the
> rectangle in the hole, and found I really needed 3/8" on 1 corner and
> 1/8" on the opposite corner. So I marked it with a permanent marker.
> Then pulled out my angle grinder and grinded away. Now it extends
> the box flush with the wall and is code-compliant. Cheap too, if you
> don't count my time Now I just have to do it again & again &
> again (about 12 times total).
The mark of a true home-owner; lots of things to work on <g>
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| DerbyDad03 2007-06-29, 5:25 pm |
| On 1 Jun, 17:57, dthompson4...@SPAMwowway.com (DT) wrote:
> In article <46608675$0$15004$4c368...@roadrunner.com>, nob...@nowhere.com
> says...
>
>
>
>
>
-- Well, the first problem is that the boxes are not installed
correctly. They are
-- not supposed to be flush with the stud, they are supposed to stick
out 1/2" and
-- be flush with the drywall. The mounting strap on the receptacles
should rest on
-- the box and the drywall at the same time.
Paraphrasing Sam Torrance, and said with my best Scottish accent,
"Useful post that, useful."
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