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Home > Archive > Home Repair forum > June 2007 > Re: Chrome shower pipe
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| Author |
Re: Chrome shower pipe
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| BobK207 2007-06-12, 3:25 am |
| On Jun 11, 7:16 pm, Meat Plow <m...@meatplow.local> wrote:
> Hand tightend to 5 oclock and that's it. Need to
> get it to 6. Can't put a pipe wrench on it don't
> want to mark it up. Is there something made for
> this or a trick using a pipe wrench and leather
> or something else?
Unscrew the pipe & either retape or add more tape to the
threads........it will seal up on the "previous" 6 o'clock under hand
torque alone.
cheers
Bob
or use the channel lock handle trick 
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| Meat Plow 2007-06-12, 9:25 am |
| On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 05:49:25 +0000, BobK207 wrote:
> On Jun 11, 7:16 pm, Meat Plow <m...@meatplow.local> wrote:
>
> Unscrew the pipe & either retape or add more tape to the
> threads........it will seal up on the "previous" 6 o'clock under hand
> torque alone.
>
> cheers
> Bob
>
> or use the channel lock handle trick 
I went almost 360 by hand from proper position and yes it had tape on it
but it leaked. 4 kids use the shower so they constantly mess with the
shower head so the pipe need to be tight.
--
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| Sacramento Dave 2007-06-12, 9:25 am |
| Chanel Locks, that's how us Plumbers do it
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| Meat Plow 2007-06-12, 9:25 am |
| On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 05:27:06 -0700, Sacramento Dave wrote:
> Chanel Locks, that's how us Plumbers do it
On an ornamental chromed pipe?
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| Meat Plow wrote:
> On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 05:27:06 -0700, Sacramento Dave wrote:
>
>
> On an ornamental chromed pipe?
All it takes is a rag in the jaws to avoid marking it -- although I
certainly have seen a lot of jobs where obviously either channel-lock
pliers or a pipe wrench were used directly -- mostly in commercial
installations where one would presume the work was a "pro"...
--
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| On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 11:34:38 -0500, dpb <none@non.net> wrote:
>Meat Plow wrote:
>
>All it takes is a rag in the jaws to avoid marking it -- although I
>certainly have seen a lot of jobs where obviously either channel-lock
>pliers or a pipe wrench were used directly -- mostly in commercial
>installations where one would presume the work was a "pro"...
A pretty thick rag, I think. I've seen things get scratched right
through a rag. In fact I've fallen and drawn blood from my leg
without even damaging my pants.
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| Meat Plow 2007-06-12, 1:25 pm |
| On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 11:34:38 -0500, dpb wrote:
> Meat Plow wrote:
>
> All it takes is a rag in the jaws to avoid marking it -- although I
> certainly have seen a lot of jobs where obviously either channel-lock
> pliers or a pipe wrench were used directly -- mostly in commercial
> installations where one would presume the work was a "pro"...
This may be too tight for that. I think I need to take the shower head off
and turn it by hand the rest of the way. I didn't want to break the
plastic head off last night, it's one of those big sunflower looking
things. If it won't turn I'll shove my 3/8" extension in it and that
should do the trick. If it were mine not my girl's it would have got
wrenched. I need to replace mine in the basement shower as my son broke it
off this morning adjusting it. It had to be week because it broke off
inside the adapter sweated on the 1/2" riser pipe. He had to take his
shower with just the stream out of the adapter 
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| mm wrote:
> On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 11:34:38 -0500, dpb <none@non.net> wrote:
>
>
> A pretty thick rag, I think. I've seen things get scratched right
> through a rag. In fact I've fallen and drawn blood from my leg
> without even damaging my pants.
Well, it presumes at least a modicum of care is taken and, yes, it takes
more than a single layer of t-shirt. I normally use an old wash rag or
similar...
--
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| On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 12:52:07 -0500, dpb <none@non.net> wrote:
>mm wrote:
>
>Well, it presumes at least a modicum of care is taken and, yes, it takes
>more than a single layer of t-shirt. I normally use an old wash rag or
>similar...
Salvage some strip on rubber inner-tube 1 X 12 inch or so. Wrap around
and pipe wrench it up, or channel lock pliers. Save to strip in the
plumbing bag for later use.
--
Oren
"The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas!"
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| Sacramento Dave 2007-06-12, 5:25 pm |
|
"Meat Plow" <meat@meatplow.local> wrote in message
news:10isv3.g7o.17.1@news.alt.net...
> On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 05:27:06 -0700, Sacramento Dave wrote:
>
>
> On an ornamental chromed pipe?
>
>
Most of them are made in China now
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| On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 22:01:48 GMT, "Sacramento Dave"
<diacono@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>"Meat Plow" <meat@meatplow.local> wrote in message
>news:10isv3.g7o.17.1@news.alt.net...
>Most of them are made in China now
I guess you're right. He should have said an oriental chromed pipe.
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| Meat Plow 2007-06-13, 3:25 am |
| On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 22:01:48 +0000, Sacramento Dave wrote:
>
> "Meat Plow" <meat@meatplow.local> wrote in message
> news:10isv3.g7o.17.1@news.alt.net...
> Most of them are made in China now
smartass
--
#1 Offishul Ruiner of Usenet, March 2007
#1 Usenet XXXXXXX, March 2007
#1 Bartlo Pset, March 13-24 2007
#10 Most hated Usenetizen of all time
#8 AUK Hate Machine Cog
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004
COOSN-266-06-25794
| |
| Edwin Pawlowski 2007-06-13, 1:25 pm |
|
"mm" <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
>
> I guess you're right. He should have said an oriental chromed pipe.
>
In the Yellow Pages under Ornamental Oriental.
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| Sacramento Dave 2007-06-13, 8:25 pm |
|
"Meat Plow" <meat@meatplow.local> wrote in message
news:10kbfh.jrd.17.6@news.alt.net...
> On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 22:01:48 +0000, Sacramento Dave wrote:
>
>
> smartass
That's what you get for wondering away from that guitar group
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| Meat Plow 2007-06-13, 8:25 pm |
| On Wed, 13 Jun 2007 15:58:37 -0700, Sacramento Dave wrote:
>
> "Meat Plow" <meat@meatplow.local> wrote in message
> news:10kbfh.jrd.17.6@news.alt.net...
>
>
> That's what you get for wondering away from that guitar group
Hey I got other hobbies you know 
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