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Home > Archive > Home Repair forum > June 2007 > Sheer frustration
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| Harlan Messinger 2007-06-27, 9:25 am |
| Why it takes me so long to get up the steam to start a home improvement
project:
I got a pedestal sink to replace a vanity sink in a powder room. I need
to put in a backer board. I remove some of the drywall and find two
plastic pipes from above, presumably drain pipes, one straight down the
middle between the water supply pipes and one on the left just inside
the stud, and BOTH smack against the back of the drywall.
So, no backer board, hence I trash the pedestal sink, OR I build a
projection in front of the wall and hang the sink from *that* but then I
have to have the sink's supply lines and drainpipe extended forward; and
by then the sink's too far into the room anyway.
Or I can go big time and have all the plumbing *inside* the wall
rerouted. Yeah, right.
How do all of you ever get anything done?
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| JoeSpareBedroom 2007-06-27, 9:25 am |
| "Harlan Messinger" <hmessinger.removethis@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:5ef8tmF37m0hgU1@mid.individual.net...
> Why it takes me so long to get up the steam to start a home improvement
> project:
>
> I got a pedestal sink to replace a vanity sink in a powder room. I need to
> put in a backer board. I remove some of the drywall and find two plastic
> pipes from above, presumably drain pipes, one straight down the middle
> between the water supply pipes and one on the left just inside the stud,
> and BOTH smack against the back of the drywall.
>
> So, no backer board, hence I trash the pedestal sink, OR I build a
> projection in front of the wall and hang the sink from *that* but then I
> have to have the sink's supply lines and drainpipe extended forward; and
> by then the sink's too far into the room anyway.
>
> Or I can go big time and have all the plumbing *inside* the wall rerouted.
> Yeah, right.
>
> How do all of you ever get anything done?
I think about it for a couple of years. Or eight.
The sink in my bathroom is set into the type of wooden counter popular in
homes from the 1950s. Someone tried recoating the sink sometime in the past,
and it's flaking off. Really ugly. No big deal, right? Just replace the
sink. Wrong. The whole counter is covered with standard
4-point-something-inch tiles. And, what are the tiles called that curve over
the edge of a counter? Whatever they are, they also curve over the edges of
the sink. The only way to remove the sink is to smash those trim tiles.
OK - so, replace the tiles, right? They come in plenty of colors. I should
be able to find one that matches the Pepto Bismol pink of the entire
bathroom. Maybe, but until I smash off those tiles, I have no way of knowing
the actual size of the sink. No, it can't be measured from underneath and I
don't wanna discuss why or I'll start drinking in the morning.
So, maybe if the sink doesn't match any "standard" size, I could have one
made by some custom pottery place in FRIGGIN' ITALY for $8000.00. Or,
replace the whole countertop. But, that's another issue. The tile of the
countertop meet the tiles on the wall, and it's all grouted together. And,
the countertop's not a nice, simple rectangle or square. Its front-to-back
dimension tapers as it heads toward the door, or the door wouldn't close.
I could take out the sink and have it recoated correctly, but I'll think
about it for another year while I go fishing.
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| Speedy Jim 2007-06-27, 5:25 pm |
| Harlan Messinger wrote:
> Why it takes me so long to get up the steam to start a home improvement
> project:
>
> I got a pedestal sink to replace a vanity sink in a powder room. I need
> to put in a backer board. I remove some of the drywall and find two
> plastic pipes from above, presumably drain pipes, one straight down the
> middle between the water supply pipes and one on the left just inside
> the stud, and BOTH smack against the back of the drywall.
<SNIP>
So, don't use a "board".
How about a 1/4" thk steel plate notched into the studs?
Tap the plate for bolts or permanently fasten threaded studs
to it.
You might even be able to notch a piece of plywood into the
studs if steel isn't your thing.
Jim
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| Harlan Messinger 2007-06-27, 5:25 pm |
| Speedy Jim wrote:
> Harlan Messinger wrote:
>
>
> <SNIP>
>
> So, don't use a "board".
>
> How about a 1/4" thk steel plate notched into the studs?
> Tap the plate for bolts or permanently fasten threaded studs
> to it.
Nope, there isn't even a quarter inch between the front of these pipes
and the back of the drywall. But there IS about a sixteenth of an inch.
I could screw a steel sheet between the studs, after having screwed
rectangles from a 2x8 to the back of the sheet to cover the space
between the intruding pipes. (I do have over 2 inches between the front
of the supply pipes and the back of the drywall.) The wood would span
the locations of the bolts. Does that sound sufficiently solid?
>
> You might even be able to notch a piece of plywood into the
> studs if steel isn't your thing.
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| Speedy Jim 2007-06-27, 8:25 pm |
| Harlan Messinger wrote:
> Speedy Jim wrote:
>
>
>
> Nope, there isn't even a quarter inch between the front of these pipes
> and the back of the drywall. But there IS about a sixteenth of an inch.
> I could screw a steel sheet between the studs, after having screwed
> rectangles from a 2x8 to the back of the sheet to cover the space
> between the intruding pipes. (I do have over 2 inches between the front
> of the supply pipes and the back of the drywall.) The wood would span
> the locations of the bolts. Does that sound sufficiently solid?
>
That sounds workable. And you could make the steel plate
as "tall" as you need to give the stiffness.
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| Speedy Jim wrote:
> Harlan Messinger wrote:
>
>
>
> That sounds workable. And you could make the steel plate
> as "tall" as you need to give the stiffness.
The height won't add much stiffness. What would do that would be a
vertical angle attached to it alongside the pipes where there is clearance.
--
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| Speedy Jim 2007-06-27, 9:25 pm |
| dpb wrote:
> Speedy Jim wrote:
>
>
>
> The height won't add much stiffness. What would do that would be a
> vertical angle attached to it alongside the pipes where there is clearance.
>
> --
Very good point. Could even be made a bendment
in the sheetmetal.
--
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Speedy Jim wrote:
> dpb wrote:
>
>
> Very good point. Could even be made a bendment
> in the sheetmetal.
Yeah, I was going to add that as an alternative/enhancement but you beat
me to it... 
--
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| aemeijers 2007-06-28, 3:25 am |
|
"Harlan Messinger" <hmessinger.removethis@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:5eg519F37qir6U1@mid.individual.net...[color=darkred]
> Speedy Jim wrote:
>
> Nope, there isn't even a quarter inch between the front of these pipes and
> the back of the drywall. But there IS about a sixteenth of an inch. I
> could screw a steel sheet between the studs, after having screwed
> rectangles from a 2x8 to the back of the sheet to cover the space between
> the intruding pipes. (I do have over 2 inches between the front of the
> supply pipes and the back of the drywall.) The wood would span the
> locations of the bolts. Does that sound sufficiently solid?
>
You don't need to notch the studs. Just replace a section of drywall with
smooth-finish plywood the same thickness, screwed to the studs, seal
appropriately, mud into the drywall, prime, and paint. If you do it right,
it'll vanish completely.
aem sends....
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| Jim Redelfs 2007-06-28, 3:25 am |
| In article <5ef8tmF37m0hgU1@mid.individual.net>,
Harlan Messinger <hmessinger.removethis@comcast.net> wrote:
> How do all of you ever get anything done?
I don't. I try to avoid doing projects for exactly the reasons you gave. My
sig says it all. <sigh>
--
JR
No project too small
All projects too big
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| Eric9822 2007-06-28, 3:25 am |
| On Jun 27, 8:17 pm, "aemeijers" <aemeij...@att.net> wrote:
> "Harlan Messinger" <hmessinger.removet...@comcast.net> wrote in message
>
> news:5eg519F37qir6U1@mid.individual.net...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> You don't need to notch the studs. Just replace a section of drywall with
> smooth-finish plywood the same thickness, screwed to the studs, seal
> appropriately, mud into the drywall, prime, and paint. If you do it right,
> it'll vanish completely.
>
> aem sends....- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
This is exactly what I did and was preparing to propose. It worked
great and you can't see it unless you poke your head up under the
basin.
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| Harlan Messinger 2007-06-28, 9:25 am |
| aemeijers wrote:
> You don't need to notch the studs. Just replace a section of drywall with
> smooth-finish plywood the same thickness, screwed to the studs, seal
> appropriately, mud into the drywall, prime, and paint. If you do it right,
> it'll vanish completely.
That certainly sounds *easiest*. I'm concerned about thickness: all my
resources talk about using backer boards that are 1" or 2" thick.
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| Harlan Messinger 2007-06-28, 9:25 am |
| Harlan Messinger wrote:
> aemeijers wrote:
>
> That certainly sounds *easiest*. I'm concerned about thickness: all my
> resources talk about using backer boards that are 1" or 2" thick.
I suppose I could combine this with another of the offered solutions and
screw a steel plate into the back.
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| aemeijers 2007-06-28, 5:25 pm |
|
"Harlan Messinger" <hmessinger.removethis@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:5ehhrgF39168sU2@mid.individual.net...
> aemeijers wrote:
>
> That certainly sounds *easiest*. I'm concerned about thickness: all my
> resources talk about using backer boards that are 1" or 2" thick.
Use a board bigger than the back of the sink (ie, bigger than the 2x6 the
book says to use), and lots of screws into the studs. A 12" tall panel of
1/2 " or 5/8" plywood, across 3 studs, with 4 or 5 screws per stud, will be
plenty strong enough to resist the twisting action from the weight of the
sink. If you can exactly spot where the bolts for the hangers need to go
before you put the plywood up, some bigass fender washers on the back,
versus butterfly bolts or whatever, can't hurt.
aem sends...
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