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Home > Archive > Home Repair forum > January 2008 > heating up so slow
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| Author |
heating up so slow
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| John Smith 2008-01-23, 8:25 pm |
| I have a 2,000 sqft house. I suspect the heating system (Trane) is
not working properly because it takes one hour to raise the
temperature four degrees.
The service man from the company which installed the unit last
summer told me the system works fine. He said the supply air is
105 degree and return air is 71 degree and usually he only gets
101 degree for supply air.
I don't have much experience with gas heat and wonder if a supply
air of 105 degree is normal. Any thoughts?
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| ransley 2008-01-23, 8:25 pm |
| On Jan 23, 6:38=A0pm, John Smith <jsm...@company.com> wrote:
> I have a 2,000 sqft house. I suspect the heating system (Trane) is
> not working properly because it takes one hour to raise the
> temperature four degrees.
>
> The service man from the company which installed the unit last
> summer told me the system works fine. He said the supply air is
> 105 degree and return air is 71 degree and usually he only gets
> 101 degree for supply air.
>
> I don't have much experience with gas heat and wonder if a supply
> air of 105 degree is normal. Any thoughts?
=46rom what temp are you reheating, it sounds like you are one of the
few with a properly sized furnace. Heating units should be sized to
run near consistantly at the years coldest temp. Are you there yet?
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| ransley 2008-01-23, 8:25 pm |
| On Jan 23, 7:36=A0pm, ransley <Mark_Rans...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Jan 23, 6:38=A0pm, John Smith <jsm...@company.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> From what temp are you reheating, it sounds like you are one of the
> few with a properly sized =A0furnace. =A0Heating units should be sized to
> run near consistantly at the years coldest temp. Are you there yet?
What did you expect an 8f hr. degree rise. Mine is near 2 hrf on total
heat, you are kidding yourself and us here. Go to sleeep.
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| On Wed, 23 Jan 2008 19:38:57 -0500, John Smith <jsmith@company.com>
wrote:
>I have a 2,000 sqft house. I suspect the heating system (Trane) is
>not working properly because it takes one hour to raise the
>temperature four degrees.
>
>The service man from the company which installed the unit last
>summer told me the system works fine. He said the supply air is
>105 degree and return air is 71 degree and usually he only gets
>101 degree for supply air.
>
>I don't have much experience with gas heat and wonder if a supply
>air of 105 degree is normal. Any thoughts?
Look at the Rating plate label on your furnace where the model, serial
number, and electric ratings are. You will see a "temp rise" range of
something like 35-65 or 40-70 etc. The air temperature going into your
furnace and coming out should have a differential within that range
while providing enough air flow to properly heat your home.
Your 34 degrees just "aint goina cut it".
Bubba
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| Joseph Meehan 2008-01-24, 9:25 am |
| It sounds normal to me. The ideal system is the one that will take a long
time to increase the temperature. Oversize units will heat fast, but they
also will be less able to maintain any specific temperature and will be less
efficient. It sounds like yours is good.
"John Smith" <jsmith@company.com> wrote in message
news:fn8mn2$k6r$1@aioe.org...
> I have a 2,000 sqft house. I suspect the heating system (Trane) is
> not working properly because it takes one hour to raise the
> temperature four degrees.
>
> The service man from the company which installed the unit last
> summer told me the system works fine. He said the supply air is
> 105 degree and return air is 71 degree and usually he only gets
> 101 degree for supply air.
>
> I don't have much experience with gas heat and wonder if a supply
> air of 105 degree is normal. Any thoughts?
--
Joseph Meehan
Dia 's Muire duit
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| BobK207 2008-01-24, 1:25 pm |
| On Jan 23, 4:38 pm, John Smith <jsm...@company.com> wrote:
> I have a 2,000 sqft house. I suspect the heating system (Trane) is
> not working properly because it takes one hour to raise the
> temperature four degrees.
>
> The service man from the company which installed the unit last
> summer told me the system works fine. He said the supply air is
> 105 degree and return air is 71 degree and usually he only gets
> 101 degree for supply air.
>
> I don't have much experience with gas heat and wonder if a supply
> air of 105 degree is normal. Any thoughts?
John-
Sounds about right...as everyone has posted.
You want a system that can just barely keep up on the coldest day in
its design life.
I've done some heating experiments in a couple homes and 4 degrees per
hour is about in the middle of the performance I've measured.
When I allow my house to "soak" for a weekend away & the outside temp
is in the low 50's, high 40's the house settles near 50..... brrrrr!
My home heats at about 6 deg per hour...... approx 1 deg rise in 10
minutes. I have run this experiment a couple times.
During "normal" duty it runs about 10 minutes on, 20 minutes off.
When its really cold outside (well, cold for SoCal, low 30's). The
gas furnace runs nearly constantly to keep the house at 62 over night)
cheers
Bob
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| HVACTECH2 2008-01-24, 5:25 pm |
| On Thu, 24 Jan 2008 07:08:02 -0500, "Joseph Meehan"
<sligoNoSPAMjoe@hotmail.com> wrote:
[color=darkred]
>It sounds normal to me. The ideal system is the one that will take a long
>time to increase the temperature. Oversize units will heat fast, but they
>also will be less able to maintain any specific temperature and will be less
>efficient. It sounds like yours is good.
>
>"John Smith" <jsmith@company.com> wrote in message
>news:fn8mn2$k6r$1@aioe.org...
As usual mr. Meehan is wrong. If I had a model number I could tell you
what the temp rise should be but the usual temp rise is about 70
degrees which yours is nowhere near if your readings are correct.
| |
|
| On Thu, 24 Jan 2008 07:08:02 -0500, "Joseph Meehan"
<sligoNoSPAMjoe@hotmail.com> wrote:
>It sounds normal to me. The ideal system is the one that will take a long
>time to increase the temperature. Oversize units will heat fast, but they
>also will be less able to maintain any specific temperature and will be less
>efficient. It sounds like yours is good.
>
Bzzzzttt! Wrong answer Joseph.
Bubba
[color=darkred]
>"John Smith" <jsmith@company.com> wrote in message
>news:fn8mn2$k6r$1@aioe.org...
| |
|
| On Thu, 24 Jan 2008 17:39:46 -0500, HVACTECH2 wrote:
>On Thu, 24 Jan 2008 07:08:02 -0500, "Joseph Meehan"
><sligoNoSPAMjoe@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>As usual mr. Meehan is wrong. If I had a model number I could tell you
>what the temp rise should be but the usual temp rise is about 70
>degrees which yours is nowhere near if your readings are correct.
Ding, Ding, Ding, Ding, Ding!
We have a winner (although the 70 is usually a range such as 40 - 70)
Bubba
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|
| On Thu, 24 Jan 2008 08:54:28 -0800 (PST), BobK207 <rkazanjy@gmail.com>
wrote:
>On Jan 23, 4:38 pm, John Smith <jsm...@company.com> wrote:
>
>John-
>
>Sounds about right...as everyone has posted.
Bzzzztttt! Wrong answer Bob. Try again.
Bubba
>
>You want a system that can just barely keep up on the coldest day in
>its design life.
>
>I've done some heating experiments in a couple homes and 4 degrees per
>hour is about in the middle of the performance I've measured.
>
>When I allow my house to "soak" for a weekend away & the outside temp
>is in the low 50's, high 40's the house settles near 50..... brrrrr!
>
>My home heats at about 6 deg per hour...... approx 1 deg rise in 10
>minutes. I have run this experiment a couple times.
>
>During "normal" duty it runs about 10 minutes on, 20 minutes off.
>
>When its really cold outside (well, cold for SoCal, low 30's). The
>gas furnace runs nearly constantly to keep the house at 62 over night)
>
>cheers
>Bob
| |
| Red Green 2008-01-25, 9:25 pm |
| BobK207 <rkazanjy@gmail.com> wrote in news:a56a44ef-7e6f-4a42-babd-
4778f3384f61@q21g2000hsa.googlegroups.com:
> On Jan 23, 4:38 pm, John Smith <jsm...@company.com> wrote:
>
> John-
>
> Sounds about right...as everyone has posted.
>
> You want a system that can just barely keep up on the coldest day in
> its design life.
Sounds about right...for AC on the warmest day.
>
> I've done some heating experiments in a couple homes and 4 degrees per
> hour is about in the middle of the performance I've measured.
>
> When I allow my house to "soak" for a weekend away & the outside temp
> is in the low 50's, high 40's the house settles near 50..... brrrrr!
>
> My home heats at about 6 deg per hour...... approx 1 deg rise in 10
> minutes. I have run this experiment a couple times.
>
> During "normal" duty it runs about 10 minutes on, 20 minutes off.
>
> When its really cold outside (well, cold for SoCal, low 30's). The
> gas furnace runs nearly constantly to keep the house at 62 over night)
>
> cheers
> Bob
| |
| BobK207 2008-01-26, 3:25 am |
| On Jan 25, 7:15 pm, Red Green <postmas...@127.0.0.1> wrote:[color=darkred]
> BobK207 <rkaza...@gmail.com> wrote in news:a56a44ef-7e6f-4a42-babd-
> 4778f3384...@q21g2000hsa.googlegroups.com:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sounds about right...for AC on the warmest day.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Red-
How about a real answer?
cheers
Bob
| |
| BobK207 2008-01-26, 3:25 am |
| On Jan 24, 7:22 pm, Bubba <LiKeAlAkErem...@iname.com> wrote:[color=darkred]
> On Thu, 24 Jan 2008 08:54:28 -0800 (PST), BobK207 <rkaza...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bzzzztttt! Wrong answer Bob. Try again.
> Bubba
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Bubba-
While the temperature rise across the furnace is important and too
little can indicative of an under performing system, does that really
tell the whole story?
I know you HVAC guys think you have a monopoly on all knowledge HVAC
but maybe a you should consider a little thermo / heat
transfer.....you know, think outside of your box.
Could it be possible that a furnace with too little temperature rise
can still heat the house adequately?
Or could a furnace with "correct" temp rise be incapable of heating
the house adequately?
hmmm?
Maybe the temperature rise (per time unit) of the house is important
too?
Kind of an overall performance measure?
hmmm?
cheers
Bob
| |
| John Smith 2008-01-26, 3:25 am |
| Thanks for your responses. My furnace is Trane xv80. I did an Internet
search and found the temperature rise to be 30 - 60 degrees. Mine is 34
degrees. It is within the spec, albeit at the low end. Should I worry
about it?
| |
| BobK207 2008-01-26, 3:25 am |
| On Jan 25, 10:33 pm, John Smith <jsm...@company.com> wrote:
> Thanks for your responses. My furnace is Trane xv80. I did an Internet
> search and found the temperature rise to be 30 - 60 degrees. Mine is 34
> degrees. It is within the spec, albeit at the low end. Should I worry
> about it?
John-
Per the service visit & the info you found on the web (did you confirm
it against the furnace rating label?) the furnace performance is
within spec.
[color=darkred]
Well, if the furnace keeps your house warm......I guess not.
Maybe Bubba & Red Have something to add?
cheers
Bob
| |
| Edwin Pawlowski 2008-01-26, 9:25 am |
|
"John Smith" <jsmith@company.com> wrote in message
news:fnek8m$vir$1@aioe.org...
> Thanks for your responses. My furnace is Trane xv80. I did an Internet
> search and found the temperature rise to be 30 - 60 degrees. Mine is 34
> degrees. It is within the spec, albeit at the low end. Should I worry
> about it?
Only if you like to worry. Is the house warm enough?
| |
| lp13-30 2008-01-26, 9:25 am |
| You need to have the tech clock the gas meter to determine the btu
input. Being a variable speed, it should also be two stage, so check it
in both stages. He also needs to check the dip switch settings for the
proper CFM. Also they need to check the return air temp right at the
furnace-- not just use the indoor temp. or the temp at the return
grille. You may be sucking in cold air on the return which is throwing
off your temp rise. Larry
| |
| udarrell 2008-01-26, 1:25 pm |
| lp13-30 wrote:
>You need to have the tech clock the gas meter to determine the btu
>input. Being a variable speed, it should also be two stage, so check it
>in both stages. He also needs to check the dip switch settings for the
>proper CFM. Also they need to check the return air temp right at the
>furnace-- not just use the indoor temp. or the temp at the return
>grille. You may be sucking in cold air on the return which is throwing
>off your temp rise. Larry
>
>
Very good advice Larry. - udarrell
--
WISDOM PRINCIPLED EMPOWERMENT COMMUNICATIONS -
THE REAL POLITICAL ISSUES & WISDOM Principled PEOPLE EMPOWERMENT
http://www.udarrell.com/ (Updated)
"The Center for Public Integrity," 935 Documented False Statements in two years so Bush & company could invade Iraq; The Iraq Card: "Home page Third paragraph links to The Center for Public Integrity Website article & C-span Audio Video BR."
http://www.udarrell.com/my_pages2.htm (A page full of links (AC, Too) to my pages.)
"Reality Is Not An Easy Thing To Be Confronted With, or to ACCEPT." - Darrell
| |
| HVACTECH2 2008-01-26, 8:25 pm |
| On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 08:14:40 -0500, "Edwin Pawlowski" <esp@snet.net>
wrote:
>
>"John Smith" <jsmith@company.com> wrote in message
>news:fnek8m$vir$1@aioe.org...
>
These are 2 stage furnaces. is the second stage working?
| |
|
| Red Green wrote:
> BobK207 <rkazanjy@gmail.com> wrote in news:a56a44ef-7e6f-4a42-babd-
> 4778f3384f61@q21g2000hsa.googlegroups.com:
>
>
>
>
> Sounds about right...for AC on the warmest day.
>
>
>
>
In addition to knowing the air temperature out of the furnace you need
to know how much air is flowing. It doesn't matter what the air
temperature is if there isn't enough mass flowing; the heating will be
insufficient. Also, since the measurements you have were obtained during
the summer, you may have heat loss due to poor duct placement and/or
lack of insulation. Measure the air temperature into the living space
at several locations and coming from the furnace (at the furnace) to
assess this.
Boden
| |
| Stormin Mormon 2008-01-28, 5:25 pm |
| What Darrell said. I just learned the "check the gas meter" trick a couple
weeks ago.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
"udarrell" <anonymousl@anonymous.com> wrote in message
news:E%Jmj.41939$G23.11183@newsreading01.news.tds.net...
lp13-30 wrote:
>You need to have the tech clock the gas meter to determine the btu
>input. Being a variable speed, it should also be two stage, so check it
>in both stages. He also needs to check the dip switch settings for the
>proper CFM. Also they need to check the return air temp right at the
>furnace-- not just use the indoor temp. or the temp at the return
>grille. You may be sucking in cold air on the return which is throwing
>off your temp rise. Larry
>
>
Very good advice Larry. - udarrell
--
WISDOM PRINCIPLED EMPOWERMENT COMMUNICATIONS -
THE REAL POLITICAL ISSUES & WISDOM Principled PEOPLE EMPOWERMENT
http://www.udarrell.com/ (Updated)
"The Center for Public Integrity," 935 Documented False Statements in two
years so Bush & company could invade Iraq; The Iraq Card: "Home page Third
paragraph links to The Center for Public Integrity Website article & C-span
Audio Video BR."
http://www.udarrell.com/my_pages2.htm (A page full of links (AC, Too) to my
pages.)
"Reality Is Not An Easy Thing To Be Confronted With, or to ACCEPT." -
Darrell
| |
| BobK207 2008-01-30, 9:25 pm |
| On Jan 27, 2:25 am, Boden <bo...@tidewater.net> wrote:
> Red Green wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> In addition to knowing the air temperature out of the furnace you need
> to know how much air is flowing. It doesn't matter what the air
> temperature is if there isn't enough mass flowing; the heating will be
> insufficient. Also, since the measurements you have were obtained during
> the summer, you may have heat loss due to poor duct placement and/or
> lack of insulation. Measure the air temperature into the living space
> at several locations and coming from the furnace (at the furnace) to
> assess this.
>
> Boden
[color=darkred]
temperature is if there isn't enough mass flowing; the heating will be
insufficient<<<<
yup, now we're talking a little more science.......... not just
mindless tech manual following.
knowing the gas consumption is helpful
cheers
Bob
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