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| Author |
Repairing LCD TV - Westinghouse LTV-32W3
|
|
| ZalekBloom@hotmail.com 2008-02-03, 1:25 pm |
|
I am trying repaire my LCD TV Westinghouse LTV-32W3. I purchased it 1
1/2 year ago - it worked OK for about 1 year. After warranty expired
it works OK for about hour, after 1 hour the following symptoms
appeared:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet..../Bad-TV-2-1.wmv
The TV on the left is a good one, on the right Westinghouse LTV-32W3
I come to conclusion that some parts in the TV are getting too hot. To
test my theory I removed TV's back cover to allow better air
circulation - now TV is working without problem. What I want to do is
to install small fan to make a better cooling.
I am not a TV technician, so here are my questions:
electronics parts that are getting hot are enclosed in a metal case:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tv/IMG_0014.JPG
here electonic parts with metal case removed:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tv/IMG_0017.JPG
I guess the metal case is to prevent electromagnetic transmition - can
I make more holes in a metal case without causing electromagnetic
interferrence?
I plan to put inside a small fan, similar to one used in computers -
can you recommend one?
Can you recommend simply converter from 110 AC to 5V(?) DC to power
this fan?
Thanks,
Zalek
| |
| Mark A 2008-02-03, 1:25 pm |
| <ZalekBloom@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:rn0cq3hkvg3qa424282ik1o1kaig70r2th@4ax.com...
>
> I am trying repaire my LCD TV Westinghouse LTV-32W3. I purchased it 1
> 1/2 year ago - it worked OK for about 1 year. After warranty expired
> it works OK for about hour, after 1 hour the following symptoms
> appeared:
> http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet..../Bad-TV-2-1.wmv
> The TV on the left is a good one, on the right Westinghouse LTV-32W3
>
> I come to conclusion that some parts in the TV are getting too hot. To
> test my theory I removed TV's back cover to allow better air
> circulation - now TV is working without problem. What I want to do is
> to install small fan to make a better cooling.
> I am not a TV technician, so here are my questions:
>
> electronics parts that are getting hot are enclosed in a metal case:
> http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tv/IMG_0014.JPG
> here electonic parts with metal case removed:
> http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tv/IMG_0017.JPG
> I guess the metal case is to prevent electromagnetic transmition - can
> I make more holes in a metal case without causing electromagnetic
> interferrence?
>
> I plan to put inside a small fan, similar to one used in computers -
> can you recommend one?
> Can you recommend simply converter from 110 AC to 5V(?) DC to power
> this fan?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Zalek
You can purchase a 120V AC fan at an electrical store, but make sure it not
too fast or you will hear it. Most computer fans are 12V and will work with
just about any 12V converter that you laying around, or you can get one at
an electronics stores.
| |
| SoCalCommie 2008-02-03, 1:25 pm |
| <ZalekBloom@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:rn0cq3hkvg3qa424282ik1o1kaig70r2th@4ax.com...
>
> I am trying repaire my LCD TV Westinghouse LTV-32W3. I purchased it 1
> 1/2 year ago - it worked OK for about 1 year. After warranty expired
> it works OK for about hour, after 1 hour the following symptoms
> appeared:
> http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet..../Bad-TV-2-1.wmv
> The TV on the left is a good one, on the right Westinghouse LTV-32W3
>
> I come to conclusion that some parts in the TV are getting too hot. To
> test my theory I removed TV's back cover to allow better air
> circulation - now TV is working without problem. What I want to do is
> to install small fan to make a better cooling.
> I am not a TV technician, so here are my questions:
>
> electronics parts that are getting hot are enclosed in a metal case:
> http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tv/IMG_0014.JPG
> here electonic parts with metal case removed:
> http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tv/IMG_0017.JPG
> I guess the metal case is to prevent electromagnetic transmition - can
> I make more holes in a metal case without causing electromagnetic
> interferrence?
>
> I plan to put inside a small fan, similar to one used in computers -
> can you recommend one?
> Can you recommend simply converter from 110 AC to 5V(?) DC to power
> this fan?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Zalek
If it was me, I'd put a small fan in the lower right (viewed from the back)
section pointing towards the side (just below where the power cable
connects) to suck air from the inside. You can get those same style fans in
115 VAC (GOOGLE is your friend) so as not to have to deal with another power
supply. BTW, computer fans are usually 12 V not 5 V.
--
SoCalCommie
http://so-la-i.com/
WARNING: Due to Presidential Executive Orders, the National Security Agency
may have read this message without warning, warrant, or notice. They may do
this without any judicial or legislative oversight.
| |
|
|
| salty@dog.com 2008-02-03, 1:25 pm |
| On Sun, 03 Feb 2008 18:11:23 GMT, ZalekBloom@hotmail.com wrote:
>
>I am trying repaire my LCD TV Westinghouse LTV-32W3. I purchased it 1
>1/2 year ago - it worked OK for about 1 year. After warranty expired
>it works OK for about hour, after 1 hour the following symptoms
>appeared:
>http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet..../Bad-TV-2-1.wmv
>The TV on the left is a good one, on the right Westinghouse LTV-32W3
>
>I come to conclusion that some parts in the TV are getting too hot. To
>test my theory I removed TV's back cover to allow better air
>circulation - now TV is working without problem. What I want to do is
>to install small fan to make a better cooling.
>I am not a TV technician, so here are my questions:
>
>electronics parts that are getting hot are enclosed in a metal case:
> http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tv/IMG_0014.JPG
>here electonic parts with metal case removed:
>http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tv/IMG_0017.JPG
>I guess the metal case is to prevent electromagnetic transmition - can
>I make more holes in a metal case without causing electromagnetic
>interferrence?
>
>I plan to put inside a small fan, similar to one used in computers -
>can you recommend one?
>Can you recommend simply converter from 110 AC to 5V(?) DC to power
>this fan?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Zalek
A fan will only solve the problem temporarily.
Why? Because the TV worked okay for over a year before developing this symtom.
That means something has changed or deteriorated. You have what is called a
"thermal intermittant". That's a problem that shows itself when things get
either hot or cold. The problem is either a solder connection that is going bad
or a component that is failing. If it is a component that is failing, it may be
stressing other components at the same time.
You are ultimately not going to win this one. That much is certain. If the TV
isn't worth a trip to the shop for a proper diagnosis and repair, then you have
nothing to lose except the time and effort. Even with your makeshift
work-around, it's days are numbered. The problem will get worse until there is a
more profound failure.
| |
|
| In article <LMnpj.54148$Pv2.41977@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net>,
nospam@nowhere.non says...
> <ZalekBloom@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:rn0cq3hkvg3qa424282ik1o1kaig70r2th@4ax.com...
>
> If it was me, I'd put a small fan in the lower right (viewed from the back)
> section pointing towards the side (just below where the power cable
> connects) to suck air from the inside. You can get those same style fans in
> 115 VAC (GOOGLE is your friend) so as not to have to deal with another power
> supply. BTW, computer fans are usually 12 V not 5 V.
>
>
And should you put a fan in be sure to use a filter. Dust is another
enemy of small electronics.
| |
| Dan Espen 2008-02-03, 1:25 pm |
| ZalekBloom@hotmail.com writes:
> I am trying repaire my LCD TV Westinghouse LTV-32W3. I purchased it 1
> 1/2 year ago - it worked OK for about 1 year. After warranty expired
> it works OK for about hour, after 1 hour the following symptoms
> appeared:
> http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet..../Bad-TV-2-1.wmv
> The TV on the left is a good one, on the right Westinghouse LTV-32W3
>
> I come to conclusion that some parts in the TV are getting too hot. To
> test my theory I removed TV's back cover to allow better air
> circulation - now TV is working without problem. What I want to do is
> to install small fan to make a better cooling.
> I am not a TV technician, so here are my questions:
>
> electronics parts that are getting hot are enclosed in a metal case:
> http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tv/IMG_0014.JPG
> here electonic parts with metal case removed:
> http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tv/IMG_0017.JPG
> I guess the metal case is to prevent electromagnetic transmition - can
> I make more holes in a metal case without causing electromagnetic
> interferrence?
>
> I plan to put inside a small fan, similar to one used in computers -
> can you recommend one?
> Can you recommend simply converter from 110 AC to 5V(?) DC to power
> this fan?
Those bands are the most common failure mode for LCDs.
There is some kind connector inside with a lot of pins.
The heat is making them loose contact.
I don't think it's cost effective to repair, but if you
succeed let us know. I have 2 LCDs with this problem
that I'm going to dispose of in the spring cleanup.
| |
|
| On Feb 3, 2:01 pm, sa...@dog.com wrote:
> On Sun, 03 Feb 2008 18:11:23 GMT, ZalekBl...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> A fan will only solve the problem temporarily.
>
> Why? Because the TV worked okay for over a year before developing this symtom.
> That means something has changed or deteriorated. You have what is called a
> "thermal intermittant". That's a problem that shows itself when things get
> either hot or cold. The problem is either a solder connection that is going bad
> or a component that is failing. If it is a component that is failing, it may be
> stressing other components at the same time.
>
> You are ultimately not going to win this one. That much is certain. If the TV
> isn't worth a trip to the shop for a proper diagnosis and repair, then you have
> nothing to lose except the time and effort. Even with your makeshift
> work-around, it's days are numbered. The problem will get worse until there is a
> more profound failure.
Well - I tried to repair it - the technician kept it on for over 1
hour, but the TV worked OK. I noticed that the temperature in his shop
was much lower then in my apartment - I told him, but technician gave
up and refused to give estimate. I enjoy to play with electronics
gadget, so even my project will fail - for me it is fun.
Zalek
| |
|
| On Feb 3, 2:04 pm, T <nospam.k...@cox.nospam.net> wrote:
> In article <LMnpj.54148$Pv2.41...@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net>,
> nos...@nowhere.non says...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> And should you put a fan in be sure to use a filter. Dust is another
> enemy of small electronics.
I noticed the dust collection on my PC motherboard, but how do you
apply dust filter?
Another question - computer fans run on AC or DC?
Thanks,
Zalek
Zalek
| |
|
| ZalekBloom@hotmail.com wrote:
> I am trying repaire my LCD TV Westinghouse LTV-32W3. I purchased it 1
> 1/2 year ago - it worked OK for about 1 year. After warranty expired
> it works OK for about hour, after 1 hour the following symptoms
> appeared:
> http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet..../Bad-TV-2-1.wmv
> The TV on the left is a good one, on the right Westinghouse LTV-32W3
>
> I come to conclusion that some parts in the TV are getting too hot. To
> test my theory I removed TV's back cover to allow better air
> circulation - now TV is working without problem. What I want to do is
> to install small fan to make a better cooling.
> I am not a TV technician, so here are my questions:
>
> electronics parts that are getting hot are enclosed in a metal case:
> http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tv/IMG_0014.JPG
> here electonic parts with metal case removed:
> http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tv/IMG_0017.JPG
> I guess the metal case is to prevent electromagnetic transmition - can
> I make more holes in a metal case without causing electromagnetic
> interferrence?
>
> I plan to put inside a small fan, similar to one used in computers -
> can you recommend one?
> Can you recommend simply converter from 110 AC to 5V(?) DC to power
> this fan?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Zalek
Frys and other electronics shops have cans of "circuit
cooler" that can be used to chill a suspect part. You might
be able to pinpoint the part that has changed value over
time. I would tend to look at electrolytic capacitors
first, then stressed diodes or transistors.
Also, try repair shops that have worked on that model, most
likely it is developing a reputation that a tech has seen
before. try the electronics repair boards, or google that
model and "+trouble".
-- larry / dallas
| |
|
| In article <30022c55-c5f2-4bba-b09b-f09a6fc797a7
@v4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>, zalekbloom@hotmail.com says...
> On Feb 3, 2:04 pm, T <nospam.k...@cox.nospam.net> wrote:
>
> I noticed the dust collection on my PC motherboard, but how do you
> apply dust filter?
>
> Another question - computer fans run on AC or DC?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Zalek
>
> Zalek
>
It should be on the intake of the fan. As for AC/DC I dont' honesly
know, but I recall that most I've run across seem to be DC.
| |
| Arfa Daily 2008-02-03, 8:25 pm |
|
"SoCalCommie" <nospam@nowhere.non> wrote in message
news:LMnpj.54148$Pv2.41977@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net...
> <ZalekBloom@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:rn0cq3hkvg3qa424282ik1o1kaig70r2th@4ax.com...
>
> If it was me, I'd put a small fan in the lower right (viewed from the
> back) section pointing towards the side (just below where the power cable
> connects) to suck air from the inside. You can get those same style fans
> in 115 VAC (GOOGLE is your friend) so as not to have to deal with another
> power supply. BTW, computer fans are usually 12 V not 5 V.
>
> --
> SoCalCommie
If it was me, I think I would try to figure out what is actually wrong with
it first. Fitting a fan is attacking the symptoms rather than the cause, and
if a component such as an electrolytic cap is failing, or a bad joint is
starting to show up, it is unlikely that its demise will be arrested for
good, merely by the addition of a fan. It's a bit like going to the doctor
and telling him that you get short of breath when you climb the stairs, and
his 'fix' for your problem being to suggest installing a stairlift ...
An intermittent problem such as is shown in your film, and that is clearly
heat related, should not be difficult to find, if you approach it armed with
a hair dryer, and a can of freezer. If it then proved to be an
'unrepairable' fault such as one of the LSIs, or even just a bad joint on
one, that you likely wouldn't be able to fix with basic home soldering
equipment, then you might consider that your TV has terminal lung cancer,
and the best you can do is to get what remaining life out of it that you
can, by installing that 'stairlift' !
Arfa
| |
| hr(bob) hofmann@att.net 2008-02-03, 9:25 pm |
| On Feb 3, 12:11=A0pm, ZalekBl...@hotmail.com wrote:
> I am trying repaire my LCD TV Westinghouse LTV-32W3. I purchased it 1
> 1/2 year ago - it worked OK for about 1 year. After warranty expired
> it works OK for about hour, after 1 hour the following symptoms
> appeared:http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tv/Bad-TV-2-1.=
wmv
> The TV on the left is a good one, on the right Westinghouse LTV-32W3
>
> I come to conclusion that some parts in the TV are getting too hot. To
> test my theory I removed TV's =A0back cover to allow better air
> circulation - now TV is working without problem. What I want to do is
> to install small fan to make a better cooling.
> I am not a TV technician, so here are my questions:
>
> electronics parts that are getting hot are enclosed in a metal case:
> =A0http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0014.JPG
> here electonic parts with metal case removed: =A0http://www.evkosystems.kg=
binternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0017.JPG
> I guess the metal case is to prevent electromagnetic transmition - can
> I make more holes in a metal case without causing electromagnetic
> interferrence?
>
> I plan to put inside a small fan, similar to one used in computers -
> can you recommend one?
> Can you recommend simply converter from 110 AC to 5V(?) DC to power
> this fan?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Zalek
The case is probably for reducing elelctromagnetic interference and
for physical protection of the parts.
As other posters have said, a fan will probably only prolong the time
until the TV fails again. I think a little alternate heat, from a
hair dryer, and a can of circuit coolant spray might help you to find
the area of the problem.
If it was me, I would just run the set with the case open and wait and
see, as long as there is no one who could get hurt by running the set
with the covers off.
| |
| Jerry G. 2008-02-03, 9:25 pm |
| I would try to troubleshoot the set to find the components that have
become thermo sensitive, and change them. Then I would put in a fan if I
thought the set was running too hot.
If you have some thermo sensitive components in the TV set, with time
they will keep degrading until they fail. At this point, the problem may
be more serious.
--
Jerry G.
<ZalekBloom@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:rn0cq3hkvg3qa424282ik1o1kaig70r2th@4ax.com...
I am trying repaire my LCD TV Westinghouse LTV-32W3. I purchased it 1
1/2 year ago - it worked OK for about 1 year. After warranty expired
it works OK for about hour, after 1 hour the following symptoms
appeared:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet..../Bad-TV-2-1.wmv
The TV on the left is a good one, on the right Westinghouse LTV-32W3
I come to conclusion that some parts in the TV are getting too hot. To
test my theory I removed TV's back cover to allow better air
circulation - now TV is working without problem. What I want to do is
to install small fan to make a better cooling.
I am not a TV technician, so here are my questions:
electronics parts that are getting hot are enclosed in a metal case:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tv/IMG_0014.JPG
here electonic parts with metal case removed:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tv/IMG_0017.JPG
I guess the metal case is to prevent electromagnetic transmition - can
I make more holes in a metal case without causing electromagnetic
interferrence?
I plan to put inside a small fan, similar to one used in computers -
can you recommend one?
Can you recommend simply converter from 110 AC to 5V(?) DC to power
this fan?
Thanks,
Zalek
| |
| G-squared 2008-02-04, 3:25 am |
| On Feb 3, 7:07=A0pm, "Jerry G." <jerry...@NOSPAMhotmail.com> wrote:
> I would try to troubleshoot the set to find the components that
have
> become thermo sensitive, and change them. Then I would put in a fan
if I
> thought the set was running too hot.
>
> If you have some thermo sensitive components in the TV set, with
time
> they will keep degrading until they fail. At this point, the
problem may
> be more serious.
>
> --
>
> Jerry G.
>
> <ZalekBl...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
FWIW, we have a Samsung SIR-T165 ATSC tuner to go with the HD ready
50" DLP. The tuner was getting flaky when it got warmed up and would
begin stuttering. I found a rather warm IC (80 + pin Quad Flat Pack)
that seemed to operate better when cooler. I added a low speed fan (12
volt unit running on 7) 3 years ago and it's working fine. The tuner
has a VERY convenient way to do this as it has a 4 pin connector
identical (including pinout) to an IDE hard drive. I snagged a mating
connector from a junk PC power supply and connected the fan between
the +12 and +5. A little hot glue anchored the fan to the case.
Some faults are easier to 'band-aid' than to actually repair. I don't
know if is bad solder outside the chip or a potential fault inside it
but it has run over 6000 hours 'broken'.
I also have an old Sony digital audio processor that was inproperly
heat sinked on a regulator chip. It's not very common but not unheard
of to ship marginal design units.
SO, if the fan makes it work, enjoy it and don't lose sleep over it.
GG
| |
| salty@dog.com 2008-02-04, 1:25 pm |
| On Sun, 3 Feb 2008 12:43:34 -0800 (PST), zalek <zalekbloom@hotmail.com> wrote:
>On Feb 3, 2:01 pm, sa...@dog.com wrote:
>
>Well - I tried to repair it - the technician kept it on for over 1
>hour, but the TV worked OK. I noticed that the temperature in his shop
>was much lower then in my apartment - I told him, but technician gave
>up and refused to give estimate. I enjoy to play with electronics
>gadget, so even my project will fail - for me it is fun.
>
>Zalek
Most competent technicians would have had a heat gun and a spot heater and known
how to use them to induce thermal problems to make them present themselves.
Very basic technique in TV repair.
| |
| jakdedert 2008-02-04, 1:25 pm |
| G-squared wrote:
> On Feb 3, 7:07 pm, "Jerry G." <jerry...@NOSPAMhotmail.com> wrote:
> have
> if I
> time
> problem may
>
> FWIW, we have a Samsung SIR-T165 ATSC tuner to go with the HD ready
> 50" DLP. The tuner was getting flaky when it got warmed up and would
> begin stuttering. I found a rather warm IC (80 + pin Quad Flat Pack)
> that seemed to operate better when cooler. I added a low speed fan (12
> volt unit running on 7) 3 years ago and it's working fine. The tuner
> has a VERY convenient way to do this as it has a 4 pin connector
> identical (including pinout) to an IDE hard drive. I snagged a mating
> connector from a junk PC power supply and connected the fan between
> the +12 and +5. A little hot glue anchored the fan to the case.
>
> Some faults are easier to 'band-aid' than to actually repair. I don't
> know if is bad solder outside the chip or a potential fault inside it
> but it has run over 6000 hours 'broken'.
>
> I also have an old Sony digital audio processor that was inproperly
> heat sinked on a regulator chip. It's not very common but not unheard
> of to ship marginal design units.
>
> SO, if the fan makes it work, enjoy it and don't lose sleep over it.
>
> GG
It's one thing to 'fix' by proper heat control when something is flaky
'out of the box' so to speak. It's a little different when the problem
is caused by heat over a period of time. Then things go bad, and
replacement is often the only option.
I have a DVD recorder with a known heat problem. Finally the marginal
filter caps died and the machine just 'freaked out'. I did serious
thermal improvements, replaced the filters and got the ps working. I
haven't dx'd it yet, but although most symptoms disappeared, it's still
not 'right'.
I found a novel way to add a fan to that one: the molex connector from
the ps had spacing which was perfect for the fan connector (from a cpu
heatsink). I cut two small pieces of wire from a paperclip and forced
them into the top of the connector on the 12v line. Thus I was able to
plug the fan in a sort of 'piggy back' fashion, without soldering or
splicing any lines...nice, clean, secure connection.
jak
| |
| Meat Plow 2008-02-04, 1:25 pm |
| On Mon, 04 Feb 2008 01:14:16 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:
>
> "SoCalCommie" <nospam@nowhere.non> wrote in message
> news:LMnpj.54148$Pv2.41977@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net...
>
>
> If it was me, I think I would try to figure out what is actually wrong with
> it first. Fitting a fan is attacking the symptoms rather than the cause, and
> if a component such as an electrolytic cap is failing, or a bad joint is
> starting to show up, it is unlikely that its demise will be arrested for
> good, merely by the addition of a fan. It's a bit like going to the doctor
> and telling him that you get short of breath when you climb the stairs, and
> his 'fix' for your problem being to suggest installing a stairlift ...
>
> An intermittent problem such as is shown in your film, and that is clearly
> heat related, should not be difficult to find, if you approach it armed with
> a hair dryer, and a can of freezer. If it then proved to be an
> 'unrepairable' fault such as one of the LSIs, or even just a bad joint on
> one, that you likely wouldn't be able to fix with basic home soldering
> equipment, then you might consider that your TV has terminal lung cancer,
> and the best you can do is to get what remaining life out of it that you
> can, by installing that 'stairlift' !
>
It's like putting a BandAid on a skin Melanoma.
| |
|
| In article <9413130f-117e-4d46-aac7-1b5f6b7ba565
@s8g2000prg.googlegroups.com>, hrhofmann@att.net says...
> On Feb 3, 12:11=A0pm, ZalekBl...@hotmail.com wrote:
-1.wmv[color=darkred]
..kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0017.JPG[color=darkred]
>=20
> The case is probably for reducing elelctromagnetic interference and
> for physical protection of the parts.
>=20
> As other posters have said, a fan will probably only prolong the time
> until the TV fails again. I think a little alternate heat, from a
> hair dryer, and a can of circuit coolant spray might help you to find
> the area of the problem.
>=20
> If it was me, I would just run the set with the case open and wait and
> see, as long as there is no one who could get hurt by running the set
> with the covers off.
>=20
It's an LCD, which means it's more than likely a low voltage device.=20
Doesn't take much more than 12V tops to run them.=20
| |
| jJim McLaughlin 2008-02-04, 8:25 pm |
| ZalekBloom@hotmail.com wrote:
DUPLICATE STUFF DELETED
Repeating our message verycouple of days won't necessarily generate a
respose, and may even piss some folks off.
| |
| Ecnerwal 2008-02-04, 8:25 pm |
| In article <MPG.221170892827130c98a6ae@news.east.cox.net>,
T <nospam.kd1s@cox.nospam.net> wrote:
> It's an LCD, which means it's more than likely a low voltage device.
> Doesn't take much more than 12V tops to run them.
And 800V (or so) running the lamps so that you can see the picture on
the 12V screen...before you go getting all comfortable poking around in
there.
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
| |
|
| In article <LawrenceSMITH-01ACE2.19015304022008@news.verizon.net>,
LawrenceSMITH@SOuthernVERmont.NyET says...
> In article <MPG.221170892827130c98a6ae@news.east.cox.net>,
> T <nospam.kd1s@cox.nospam.net> wrote:
>
>
> And 800V (or so) running the lamps so that you can see the picture on
> the 12V screen...before you go getting all comfortable poking around in
> there.
>
>
Is it really 800V? If so what does my laptop use to step the voltage up
to that level?
There are low voltage fluorescents out there. I know, I have one in my
toolkit and it runs on 4.5V.
| |
| James Sweet 2008-02-05, 3:25 am |
|
"T" <nospam.kd1s@cox.nospam.net> wrote in message
news:MPG.22119430a698015098a6b6@news.east.cox.net...
> In article <LawrenceSMITH-01ACE2.19015304022008@news.verizon.net>,
> LawrenceSMITH@SOuthernVERmont.NyET says...
>
> Is it really 800V? If so what does my laptop use to step the voltage up
> to that level?
>
> There are low voltage fluorescents out there. I know, I have one in my
> toolkit and it runs on 4.5V.
>
Fluorescents are discharge lamps, the smallest in the world require
somewhere around 50V to draw an arc through the low pressure argon/mercury
fill. Cold cathode lamps used in LCD monitors require a higher voltage,
usually 500-1500V run with a 2-4KV ignition pulse. Any fluorescent
application with a low voltage power source uses an electronic inverter to
provide the required voltage and regulate lamp power.
| |
|
| In article <MPG.22119430a698015098a6b6@news.east.cox.net> T <nospam.kd1s@cox.nospam.net> writes:
>In article <LawrenceSMITH-01ACE2.19015304022008@news.verizon.net>,
>LawrenceSMITH@SOuthernVERmont.NyET says...
>
>Is it really 800V? If so what does my laptop use to step the voltage up
>to that level?
Voltage converters.
>There are low voltage fluorescents out there. I know, I have one in my
>toolkit and it runs on 4.5V.
It uses 4.5 volts input to the voltage converter. A fluorescent
requires enough voltage to create an arc in the mercury vapor.
Alan
| |
| Franc Zabkar 2008-02-05, 5:25 pm |
| On Sun, 03 Feb 2008 18:11:23 GMT, ZalekBloom@hotmail.com put finger to
keyboard and composed:
>here electonic parts with metal case removed:
>http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tv/IMG_0017.JPG
I have no experience with LCD TVS (only LCD monitors), but I'm
wondering what is inside the tuner/IF can that warrants a heatsink for
this module? And why do the other chips require such massive heatsinks
when I see nothing of that kind in LCD monitors or digital STBs?
- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
| |
|
| On Feb 3, 1:11 pm, ZalekBl...@hotmail.com wrote:
> I am trying repaire my LCD TV Westinghouse LTV-32W3. I purchased it 1
> 1/2 year ago - it worked OK for about 1 year. After warranty expired
> it works OK for about hour, after 1 hour the following symptoms
> appeared:http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet..../Bad-TV-2-1.wmv
> The TV on the left is a good one, on the right Westinghouse LTV-32W3
>
> I come to conclusion that some parts in the TV are getting too hot. To
> test my theory I removed TV's back cover to allow better air
> circulation - now TV is working without problem. What I want to do is
> to install small fan to make a better cooling.
> I am not a TV technician, so here are my questions:
>
> electronics parts that are getting hot are enclosed in a metal case:
> http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tv/IMG_0014.JPG
> here electonic parts with metal case removed: http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tv/IMG_0017.JPG
> I guess the metal case is to prevent electromagnetic transmition - can
> I make more holes in a metal case without causing electromagnetic
> interferrence?
>
> I plan to put inside a small fan, similar to one used in computers -
> can you recommend one?
> Can you recommend simply converter from 110 AC to 5V(?) DC to power
> this fan?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Zalek
Thanks for all replies. This week I got very thin fan that can be
attached to a metal sheet that covers the circuit board that I think
is overheated. Here is PowerPoint (3mb) as it looks like on my TV:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tinghous-tv.pps
The fan is very quiet.
Now I have a problem - how to connect this fan to electricity. I have
a small power supply 5V, but if is difficult to find 110V AC after a
power-on switch. I see many open points on a circuit board, but even
it shows 5V, I am afraid to connect to a fan. What do you suggest?
Thanks,
Zalek
| |
| Tony Hwang 2008-02-10, 3:25 am |
| zalek wrote:
> On Feb 3, 1:11 pm, ZalekBl...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
>
>
> Thanks for all replies. This week I got very thin fan that can be
> attached to a metal sheet that covers the circuit board that I think
> is overheated. Here is PowerPoint (3mb) as it looks like on my TV:
> http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet....tinghous-tv.pps
> The fan is very quiet.
> Now I have a problem - how to connect this fan to electricity. I have
> a small power supply 5V, but if is difficult to find 110V AC after a
> power-on switch. I see many open points on a circuit board, but even
> it shows 5V, I am afraid to connect to a fan. What do you suggest?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Zalek
Hi,
From the board find a source for 5V or 12V DC depending on fan voltage.
You can include an in-line pico fuse if you wish. Thought about drilling
whole bunch of holes at the bottom/top of cover to increase the air flow?
| |
|
| On Feb 9, 11:08 pm, Tony Hwang <drago...@shaw.ca> wrote:
> zalek wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi,
> From the board find a source for 5V or 12V DC depending on fan voltage.
> You can include an in-line pico fuse if you wish. Thought about drilling
> whole bunch of holes at the bottom/top of cover to increase the air flow?
Yes - I thought about drilling more holes. Here are the fan specs:
# Specifications: Model: EC4007M05CA,
# Voltage VDC: 5;
# Current AMP: 0.15,
# Input Watts: 0.75,
# Fan Speed: 4500,
# AirFlow CFM: 4.81,
# Pressure MMH2O: 2.38,
# Noise dBA: <25.
# Ball-Bearing.
# CE Approved.
# Power Connection: 3-Pin PC power connector.
# Dimension: 40 x 40 x 7mm
Do you think connecting fan to the board will not take to much power?
My problem is how to find source of 5V on the board? To take voltmeter
and to look for a 5V? Are there any standards how to mark power
connectors on the board?
Thanks,
Zalek
Zalek
| |
| jakdedert 2008-02-10, 3:25 am |
| zalek wrote:
> On Feb 9, 11:08 pm, Tony Hwang <drago...@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> Yes - I thought about drilling more holes. Here are the fan specs:
>
> # Specifications: Model: EC4007M05CA,
> # Voltage VDC: 5;
> # Current AMP: 0.15,
> # Input Watts: 0.75,
> # Fan Speed: 4500,
> # AirFlow CFM: 4.81,
> # Pressure MMH2O: 2.38,
> # Noise dBA: <25.
> # Ball-Bearing.
> # CE Approved.
> # Power Connection: 3-Pin PC power connector.
> # Dimension: 40 x 40 x 7mm
>
> Do you think connecting fan to the board will not take to much power?
> My problem is how to find source of 5V on the board? To take voltmeter
> and to look for a 5V? Are there any standards how to mark power
> connectors on the board?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Zalek
>
> Zalek
Unlikely to use too much power. If you look at that plastic connector
between boards, there's probably power available right there. If you
cut to 1/2" pieces of stiff paper clip, you can likely force each down
into the +12v and ground lines that are likely located there. Then bend
the protruding ends to match the pin spacing on the fan connector. Be
sure to observe polarity.
All that said, I'd closely examine the convective air currents naturally
occurring in the set when in operation; then locate the fan to enhance
them. That will likely put your fan much higher up on the panel than
the site you've chosen. Otherwise, you could actually impede the
airflow, rather than increase it. Convection will always induce air
currents. If you put your fan in opposition to them, stagnation occurs.
jak
| |
| Tony Hwang 2008-02-10, 3:25 am |
| zalek wrote:
> On Feb 9, 11:08 pm, Tony Hwang <drago...@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
>
>
> Yes - I thought about drilling more holes. Here are the fan specs:
>
> # Specifications: Model: EC4007M05CA,
> # Voltage VDC: 5;
> # Current AMP: 0.15,
> # Input Watts: 0.75,
> # Fan Speed: 4500,
> # AirFlow CFM: 4.81,
> # Pressure MMH2O: 2.38,
> # Noise dBA: <25.
> # Ball-Bearing.
> # CE Approved.
> # Power Connection: 3-Pin PC power connector.
> # Dimension: 40 x 40 x 7mm
>
> Do you think connecting fan to the board will not take to much power?
> My problem is how to find source of 5V on the board? To take voltmeter
> and to look for a 5V? Are there any standards how to mark power
> connectors on the board?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Zalek
>
> Zalek
Hi,
I don't think so. It draws only 150mA. You can slow the fan speed down
with voltage drop resistor in series as well. Or if you install variable
resistor you can set the fan at a speed you need. 1/4 or 1/2 Watt
resistor will do.
| |
|
| In article <fb20ca24-f735-46a5-b58e-
c40a8a62ad5e@e23g2000prf.googlegroups.com>, zalekbloom@hotmail.com
says...
> On Feb 9, 11:08 pm, Tony Hwang <drago...@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> Yes - I thought about drilling more holes. Here are the fan specs:
>
> # Specifications: Model: EC4007M05CA,
> # Voltage VDC: 5;
> # Current AMP: 0.15,
> # Input Watts: 0.75,
> # Fan Speed: 4500,
> # AirFlow CFM: 4.81,
> # Pressure MMH2O: 2.38,
> # Noise dBA: <25.
> # Ball-Bearing.
> # CE Approved.
> # Power Connection: 3-Pin PC power connector.
> # Dimension: 40 x 40 x 7mm
>
> Do you think connecting fan to the board will not take to much power?
> My problem is how to find source of 5V on the board? To take voltmeter
> and to look for a 5V? Are there any standards how to mark power
> connectors on the board?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Zalek
>
> Zalek
>
It'll take a whole 3/4W at 5V. That isn't much.
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