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Author Re: 3-way grounded neutral? - followup
Doug

2008-02-12, 3:25 am

Hey everyone,

I've got the boxes open and am trying to sort everything about. I'm
about to get a light rig out to check for current, but thought I'd go
ahead and post this.

Switch 1 - description:

http://www.thegreatpuma.com/switch/switch1.jpg

CHAOS - this is the best way to describe what's going on in the first
box. There are three 3-way switches in this box all powering
different lights. The switch on the far right, off the edge of the
picture powers the fixture in question. There are seven - SEVEN -
cables (all with their own black/white/bare grd coming into the box).
One of the wires coming in goes to the Kitchen light switch's hot/
neutral connections. The third pole on the 3 way switch comes from a
pigtailed collection of 5 black wires, three of which head back out of
the switch, and one of which actually heads to the third pole on a
second 3-way switch (the switch on the far left - which powers the
family room overhead light), and the last of which heads to the switch
in question. As I was pulling the switch out of the box, this wire
broke and now the light won't work.



Switch 2 description:

http://www.thegreatpuma.com/switch/switch2.jpg

2 Black/White/Bare Grd wires into box:
Black and white from right side go to hot/neutral on switch.
Black from left side heads - by itself - out of the left side of the
box, and re-enters (Here I am making an assumption that this is the
same black wire) in the back of the box below where it originally came
in, and connects to nothing (strange, never seen this before). The
white wire is pigtailed (to add length) and connects directly to the
single pole on the switch.


Thanks a lot

Doug
Terry

2008-02-12, 3:25 am

On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 19:38:16 -0800 (PST), Doug <delphiprog@gmail.com>
wrote:

>Hey everyone,
>
>I've got the boxes open and am trying to sort everything about. I'm
>about to get a light rig out to check for current, but thought I'd go
>ahead and post this.
>
>Switch 1 - description:
>
>http://www.thegreatpuma.com/switch/switch1.jpg
>
>CHAOS - this is the best way to describe what's going on in the first
>box. There are three 3-way switches in this box all powering
>different lights. The switch on the far right, off the edge of the
>picture powers the fixture in question. There are seven - SEVEN -
>cables (all with their own black/white/bare grd coming into the box).
>One of the wires coming in goes to the Kitchen light switch's hot/
>neutral connections. The third pole on the 3 way switch comes from a
>pigtailed collection of 5 black wires, three of which head back out of
>the switch, and one of which actually heads to the third pole on a
>second 3-way switch (the switch on the far left - which powers the
>family room overhead light), and the last of which heads to the switch
>in question. As I was pulling the switch out of the box, this wire
>broke and now the light won't work.
>
>
>
>Switch 2 description:
>
>http://www.thegreatpuma.com/switch/switch2.jpg
>
>2 Black/White/Bare Grd wires into box:
>Black and white from right side go to hot/neutral on switch.
>Black from left side heads - by itself - out of the left side of the
>box, and re-enters (Here I am making an assumption that this is the
>same black wire) in the back of the box below where it originally came
>in, and connects to nothing (strange, never seen this before). The
>white wire is pigtailed (to add length) and connects directly to the
>single pole on the switch.
>
>
>Thanks a lot
>
>Doug


Try something like this: Maybe someone has a better suggestion


b1 goes to s1(black)
w1 to w2

b2 goes to s1(silver)
w2 goes to s1(silver)


LinkBot





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