Home Repair forum - Back prime T-111 siding in PA?

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Back prime T-111 siding in PA?

andy everett

2008-02-19, 5:25 pm

My thoughts on the pros and cons of back priming T-111 siding that will
go over Tyvek house wrap and cover a small stud framed cottage.

Back prime, pros, moisture from house will stay out of siding and reduce
paint peeling. Cons, extra paint and time. Moisture may be trapped in
wall causing premature rot of wall sheathing.

Don't back prime, pros, save money and time. Moisture will tend to rot
out the easier to replace T-111 siding and not the wall sheathing. Cons,
paint may blister faster as moisture tries to escape beneath paint.

Thank you for any thoughts on the matter you might share with me.

P.S. Seems like the proper application would call for 1x3 diagonal
sleepers to be installed first and then the back primed siding. This
would solve both potential problems (rot and paint blistering) or is
that over kill. I guess this would also cause some detail problems
around the windows and door?

andy everett

2008-02-19, 8:25 pm

marson

2008-02-19, 8:25 pm

On Feb 19, 6:40 pm, andy everett <vze2q...@verizon.net> wrote:
> andy everett wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> Had one more thought, don,t paint either side and let siding weather?
> Cottage can breath, save time and money up front but reduce the lifespan
> of siding.
>
> Help! 8^)

I don't think it is overkill. Depends on how long you want your paint
to last and how willing you are to do some extra work up front.
Wouldn't have to use 1x3 for rain screen. Lath would be sufficient.

aemeijers

2008-02-19, 8:25 pm

andy everett wrote:
> andy everett wrote:
>
>
> Had one more thought, don,t paint either side and let siding weather?
> Cottage can breath, save time and money up front but reduce the lifespan
> of siding.
>
> Help! 8^)
Not a viable option with plywood, which is what 'real' T-111 is.
Especially not an option with OSB-core faux t-111 like this place has.
Only way I would consider going bare-XXX is with cedar (or in the old
days, redwood), or other similar hardy woods, in clapboard or
board'n'batten. Ply or OSB will delaminate in a year or less, unless you
are in a shady desert.

Have you looked at the pre-coated T-111s like they use on sheds and
cheap apartment buildings? Modern variant of hardboard siding,
basically, but with a plastic weather coat. The 12 years I lived in my
brand-new apartment building before moving here, they never repainted
the field areas, and it seemed to hold up okay. If this is just a
fishing cabin or something, it may be good enough. (and you can always
side right over it.)

aem sends...

curmudgeon

2008-02-20, 9:26 am

Built my 2 story garage with T-111 17 years ago, then applied solid stain.
Not a bubble, no cracks no rot. Finally restained last year, only because
color had faded. Used Behr solid stain, BTW, both times.

I'd skip the back priming.

Curmudgeon

"andy everett" <vze2qxq3@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:cZHuj.1307$JF.373@trnddc01...
> My thoughts on the pros and cons of back priming T-111 siding that will go
> over Tyvek house wrap and cover a small stud framed cottage.
>
> Back prime, pros, moisture from house will stay out of siding and reduce
> paint peeling. Cons, extra paint and time. Moisture may be trapped in wall
> causing premature rot of wall sheathing.
>
> Don't back prime, pros, save money and time. Moisture will tend to rot out
> the easier to replace T-111 siding and not the wall sheathing. Cons, paint
> may blister faster as moisture tries to escape beneath paint.
>
> Thank you for any thoughts on the matter you might share with me.
>
> P.S. Seems like the proper application would call for 1x3 diagonal
> sleepers to be installed first and then the back primed siding. This would
> solve both potential problems (rot and paint blistering) or is that over
> kill. I guess this would also cause some detail problems around the
> windows and door?

Robert Allison

2008-02-20, 9:26 am

andy everett wrote:

> My thoughts on the pros and cons of back priming T-111 siding that will
> go over Tyvek house wrap and cover a small stud framed cottage.
>
> Back prime, pros, moisture from house will stay out of siding and reduce
> paint peeling. Cons, extra paint and time. Moisture may be trapped in
> wall causing premature rot of wall sheathing.

> Don't back prime, pros, save money and time. Moisture will tend to rot
> out the easier to replace T-111 siding and not the wall sheathing. Cons,
> paint may blister faster as moisture tries to escape beneath paint.
>
> Thank you for any thoughts on the matter you might share with me.
>
> P.S. Seems like the proper application would call for 1x3 diagonal
> sleepers to be installed first and then the back primed siding. This
> would solve both potential problems (rot and paint blistering) or is
> that over kill. I guess this would also cause some detail problems
> around the windows and door?

Back prime the siding. This causes the siding to take in
moisture and release moisture at the same, or close to the same
rate, on front and back. This increases the lifespan of the paint.

The diagonal sleepers could just be lathe and don't have to be
diagonal. They can be vertical and accomplish the same thing.
The rainguard system (with the lath and breathable space) will
increase your profile and require you to extend the jambs of
windows and doors to accomodate the systems increased thickness.

If it were me, I would just backprime the siding and nail it up.
But if you have the time, money and inclination, install the
rainguard system.

In summation, the backpriming will contribute to the
effectiveness of the paint on your siding, extending its life,
therefore extending the protections against moisture intrusion,
therefore protecting the underlying sheathing.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

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