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Home > Archive > Home Repair forum > March 2008 > Miter Saw from harbor freight ?
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Miter Saw from harbor freight ?
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| We used one to install about 5000' of base board and crown molding. It has
started to fall apart. The blade guard is now broken and a few other pieces
have fallen off but it still works and paid for it's self.
cm
"James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
news:bcednTJ80KcL4nDanZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@comcast.com...
> Anyone here ever used this sliding miter saw from harbour freight ?
>
>
> Any good ?
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=90891
>
> Thanks
>
> James
>
>
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| DerbyDad03 2008-03-28, 8:25 pm |
| On Mar 28, 7:30=A0pm, "James" <jnipper...@nospamfdn.com> wrote:
> Anyone here ever used this sliding miter saw from harbour freight ?
>
> Any good ?
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...mnumber=3D90891
>
> Thanks
>
> James
Any good for what?
It's a $99.99 sliding miter.
Search the web for name brand 10" sliding miter saws and see what they
cost. Even with a *substantial* price adjustment to account for the
name brand, you'll never get close to $99.99 or even the $139 regular
price. Odds are there's a reason for the price difference.
I guess it all depends on what you need it for and how long you need
it to last.
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| Well, these are both good replies, from Darby and cm.
I would use it to cut perhaps ten boards a year. I am not a carpenter, or
much of a handyman. I have a circular saw that I use a few times a year,
but I just find that I am not "handy" at using it to cut a perfectly
straight line !! I am making some shelfs soon, and very simple items like
that.
Yes, I suspected it would be on the lower quality side........... but it
might last me for 30 years, at ten boards a year. 5000 cuts as indicated
by cm is amazing for a $99 saw !
Thanks again, and I welcome further comments !!
James
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| Harry K 2008-03-28, 9:25 pm |
| On Mar 28, 6:00=A0pm, "James" <jnipper...@nospamfdn.com> wrote:
> Well, these are both good replies, from Darby and cm.
>
> I would use it to cut perhaps ten boards a year. =A0I am not a carpenter, =
or
> much of a handyman. =A0I have a circular saw that I use a few times a year=
,
> but I just find that I am not "handy" =A0at using it to cut a perfectly
> straight line !! =A0 I am making some shelfs soon, and very simple items l=
ike
> that.
>
> Yes, I suspected it would be on the lower quality side........... but it
> might last me for 30 years, at ten boards a year. =A05000 =A0cuts as indic=
ated
> by cm is amazing for a =A0 $99 =A0saw !
>
> Thanks again, and I welcome further comments !!
>
> James
I bought one a few years ago. Have had no problems with it except a
minor one. It doesn't _quite_ cut all the way through stock that is
against the fence. Leaves about a 1/8" "tit" easily trimmed with a
knife. Haven't looked to see if the fence is adustable.
For occasional use I would recommend it for the price. Undoubtedly a
'high quality' one will last longer but I don't see that it would be
any more accurate than the HF one. Everyone does not need a
professional tool.
I even use it as a 'chop' saw cutting framing memebers to length. The
nice part is being able to see _exaclty_ where the cut will fall.
I don't do all that much work with it anymore as all my buildings are
now rehabbed. I do wish I had been smart enough to invest in a
sliding mitre saw many, many years ago regardless of cost.
Harry K
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| Edwin Pawlowski 2008-03-29, 3:25 am |
|
"James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>
> I would use it to cut perhaps ten boards a year. I am not a carpenter, or
> much of a handyman.
In that case, it will probably fit your needs. I wouldn't consider it but my
needs are different than yours.
Note that the cutting capacity if 5 3/8" and that a 1 x 6 is 5 1/2". That
can be a PITA. A regular 12" miter saw will cut about 8" but will cost
considerably more.
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"James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
news:bcednTJ80KcL4nDanZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@comcast.com...
> Anyone here ever used this sliding miter saw from harbour freight ?
>
>
> Any good ?
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=90891
>
> Thanks
>
> James
>
>
Mine cost over $500 but I wouldn't mine having a HF as a backup or leaving
it on a jobsite. It was voted the worst compared to $700 sliding miter saws
but they were not comparing apples to apples relative to dollars that is.
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| Robert Neville 2008-03-29, 3:25 am |
| "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote:
>I would use it to cut perhaps ten boards a year. I am not a carpenter, or
>much of a handyman. I have a circular saw that I use a few times a year,
>but I just find that I am not "handy" at using it to cut a perfectly
>straight line !! I am making some shelfs soon, and very simple items like
>that.
>
>Yes, I suspected it would be on the lower quality side........... but it
>might last me for 30 years, at ten boards a year. 5000 cuts as indicated
>by cm is amazing for a $99 saw !
>
>Thanks again, and I welcome further comments !!
I have the 12" version of the same saw. It works fine and is plenty accurate for
casual home use. Certainly light years ahead of cutting with a hand saw - manual
or power.
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| PeterD 2008-03-29, 9:25 am |
| On Fri, 28 Mar 2008 20:00:03 -0500, "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com>
wrote:
>Well, these are both good replies, from Darby and cm.
>
>I would use it to cut perhaps ten boards a year. I am not a carpenter, or
>much of a handyman. I have a circular saw that I use a few times a year,
>but I just find that I am not "handy" at using it to cut a perfectly
>straight line !! I am making some shelfs soon, and very simple items like
>that.
>
>Yes, I suspected it would be on the lower quality side........... but it
>might last me for 30 years, at ten boards a year. 5000 cuts as indicated
>by cm is amazing for a $99 saw !
>
>Thanks again, and I welcome further comments !!
>
>James
>
For occasional use it may be OK for your needs. Also check Sears, they
have some Craftsman non-sliding saws that may be better quality.
Just remember: you get what you pay for!
If you are not in a hurry, wait till spring. With the economy headed
down, construction work falling off, you will see some at flea markets
this summer as construction contractors start selling off their tools.
I've gotten some really good deals that way in the past. A used Makita
or other name brand will be an investment while the HF tool is just a
disposable purchase.
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| Doesn't the sliding type miter saw allow for wider cuts ?
James
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| Harry K 2008-03-29, 1:25 pm |
| On Mar 29, 7:33=A0am, "James" <jnipper...@nospamfdn.com> wrote:
> Doesn't =A0the sliding type miter saw allow for wider cuts ?
>
> James
Yes, a lot wider. Mine will miter 45" on a 2x6. I think it goes
wider than that but it does go at _least_ that far.
Harry K
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| Harry K 2008-03-29, 1:25 pm |
| On Mar 28, 8:28=A0pm, " Frank" <norep...@nothome.net> wrote:
> "James" <jnipper...@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>
> news:bcednTJ80KcL4nDanZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@comcast.com...
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Mine cost over $500 but I wouldn't mine having a HF as a backup or leaving=
> it on a jobsite. It was voted the worst compared to $700 sliding miter saw=
s
> but they were not comparing apples to apples relative to dollars that is.
Correct. For homeowner use, the cheap tools are just fine as long as
their accuracy is acceptable. There are people who insist on pro
quality tools even if they only use them once or twice a year. I
don't understand that viewpoint.
Harry K
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| Robert Allison 2008-03-29, 1:25 pm |
| Harry K wrote:
> On Mar 29, 7:33 am, "James" <jnipper...@nospamfdn.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Yes, a lot wider. Mine will miter 45" on a 2x6. I think it goes
> wider than that but it does go at _least_ that far.
>
> Harry K
Jesus! 45"! That is more than my Radial Arm saw will do! My
12" sliding compound will only cut about 14" at most. What size
is yours?
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX
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| DerbyDad03 2008-03-29, 1:25 pm |
| On Mar 29, 10:33=A0am, "James" <jnipper...@nospamfdn.com> wrote:
> Doesn't =A0the sliding type miter saw allow for wider cuts ?
>
> James
A sliding miter will allow for wider cuts than a non-slider,
everything else being equal. That said, the ad says the capacity is 5
3/8", so if that's true, it just means that without the slide, it
would be even less.
I'd call and find out if that stat is accurate 'cuz my 10" non-slide
Delta, with the adjustable fence, will do 5 1/8", so an extra 1/4" for
a slider sound minimal.
However, as I pointed out in another post, you can easily gain a
little more depth of cut by simply lifting the front edge of the board
slightly so that the spinning blade completes the cut.
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| On Mar 29, 10:28=A0am, Harry K <turnkey4...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>snip<
=A0There are people who insist on pro
> quality tools even if they only use them once or twice a year. =A0I
> don't understand that viewpoint.
>
Same viewpoint as people who show up at Home Depot in a $35K SUV,
maybe? >G<
Joe
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| DerbyDad03 2008-03-29, 1:25 pm |
| On Mar 28, 10:46=A0pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" <e...@snet.net> wrote:
> "James" <jnipper...@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>
, or[color=darkred]
>
> In that case, it will probably fit your needs. I wouldn't consider it but =
my
> needs are different than yours.
>
> Note that the cutting capacity if 5 3/8" and that a 1 x 6 is 5 1/2". That
> can be a PITA. =A0 A regular 12" miter saw will cut about 8" but will cost=
> considerably more.
If you lift the front edge of the board slightly, you can easily
complete the cut on a 2 x 6 on a saw that only claims a DOC of 5 3/8".
Make your cut with the board flat, then just tilt the board up enough
so that a few more teeth on the front of the blade complete the cut.
I do it all the time with my Delta 10" non-slider.
| |
| Edwin Pawlowski 2008-03-29, 5:25 pm |
|
"DerbyDad03" <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote in message
If you lift the front edge of the board slightly, you can easily
complete the cut on a 2 x 6 on a saw that only claims a DOC of 5 3/8".
Make your cut with the board flat, then just tilt the board up enough
so that a few more teeth on the front of the blade complete the cut.
I do it all the time with my Delta 10" non-slider.
******************************
I can see nasty repercussions if not done properly though.
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|
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"Robert Allison" <rimshot27@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:6ktHj.149$QW6.55@trnddc07...
> Harry K wrote:
>
> Jesus! 45"! That is more than my Radial Arm saw will do! My 12" sliding
> compound will only cut about 14" at most. What size is yours?
>
> --
> Robert Allison
> Rimshot, Inc.
> Georgetown, TX
Any reason having both radial arm and the slider? I have both but didn't use
the RAS the last few years.
| |
| Robert Allison 2008-03-29, 8:25 pm |
| Frank wrote:
> "Robert Allison" <rimshot27@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:6ktHj.149$QW6.55@trnddc07...
>
>
>
> Any reason having both radial arm and the slider? I have both but didn't use
> the RAS the last few years.
The RAS is for framing and can rip if needed. It is permanently
setup at my shop and I use it mostly for framing and rough
cutting. The SCMS is for trim and more fine cutting as it is
much more accurate and is portable. I also have a 10" CMS and an
8" CMS and a 10" MS. A tool for everything. If you want to
throw in the old manual mitersaw, I have a total of five.
But then, that's what happens when you are a contractor.
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX
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| Harry K 2008-03-29, 9:25 pm |
| On Mar 29, 8:34=A0am, Robert Allison <rimsho...@verizon.net> wrote:
> Harry K wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> Jesus! =A045"! =A0That is more than my Radial Arm saw will do! =A0My
> 12" sliding compound will only cut about 14" at most. =A0What size
> is yours?
>
> --
> Robert Allison
> Rimshot, Inc.
> Georgetown, TX
I was wondering if my memory was _that_ bad so went out and measured.
It is stuck back in a dark corner so the measurement is not all that
accurate.
10" at 45 degrees a bit more at 90. Remember we are talking "sliding"
miter saws.
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| Harry K 2008-03-29, 9:25 pm |
| On Mar 29, 8:34=A0am, Robert Allison <rimsho...@verizon.net> wrote:
> Harry K wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> Jesus! =A045"! =A0That is more than my Radial Arm saw will do! =A0My
> 12" sliding compound will only cut about 14" at most. =A0What size
> is yours?
>
> --
> Robert Allison
> Rimshot, Inc.
> Georgetown, TX
Aha! Now I see that I said " when it should have been degrees. As an
aside, if I were buying a miter saw, I wouldn't look at any that
aren't at least a 'sliding' one and it should also be 'compound'.
Mine is. Quite a tool for the cheap price.
Harry K
| |
| willshak 2008-03-30, 1:25 pm |
| on 3/29/2008 6:49 PM Frank said the following:
> "Robert Allison" <rimshot27@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:6ktHj.149$QW6.55@trnddc07...
>
>
> Any reason having both radial arm and the slider? I have both but didn't use
> the RAS the last few years.
>
>
>
The RAS is a more versatile tool than the Miter saw. It can cross cut,
rip, groove, and even rout. When I lived in an apartment complex 25
years ago, I built an entire 12' wall unit consisting of shelves,
cabinets, and a fake fireplace in the XXXXXXXXburg style, using only a
RAS in my superintendant's basement, and that included routing grooves
in the pilasters. It was built in 4 sections and made to be taken apart
by unscrewing a handful of screws for transportation.
When I bought my house back in 1984, I brought that wall unit to my
house and installed it in my dining room.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
| |
| DerbyDad03 2008-03-30, 1:25 pm |
| On Mar 29, 2:51=A0pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" <e...@snet.net> wrote:
> "DerbyDad03" <teamarr...@eznet.net> wrote in message
>
> If you lift the front edge of the board slightly, you can easily
> complete the cut on a 2 x 6 on a saw that only claims a DOC of 5 3/8".
> Make your cut with the board flat, then just tilt the board up enough
> so that a few more teeth on the front of the blade complete the cut.
>
> I do it all the time with my Delta 10" non-slider.
>
> ******************************
>
> I can see nasty repercussions if not done properly though.
That statement applies to the use of *so* many power tools as well as
*so* many other situations in our daily lives.
BTW...after I posted my method, I was watching one of the multitudes
of "home" shows on TV and so one the supposed experts apply the same
technique.
| |
| DerbyDad03 2008-03-30, 1:25 pm |
| On Mar 30, 12:20=A0pm, willshak <wills...@00hvc.rr.com> wrote:
> on 3/29/2008 6:49 PM =A0Frank said the following:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
" sliding[color=darkred]
>
>
use[color=darkred]
>
> The RAS is a more versatile tool than the Miter saw. It can cross cut,
> rip, groove, and even rout. When I lived in an apartment complex 25
> years ago, I built an entire 12' wall unit consisting of shelves,
> cabinets, and a fake fireplace in the XXXXXXXXburg style, using only a
> RAS in my superintendant's basement, and that included routing grooves
> in the pilasters. It was built in 4 sections and made to be taken apart
> by unscrewing a handful of screws for transportation.
> When I bought my house back in 1984, I brought that wall unit to my
> house and installed it in my dining room.
>
> --
>
> Bill
> In Hamptonburgh, NY
> To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
re: The RAS is a more versatile tool than the Miter saw. It can cross
cut, rip, groove, and even rout.
With the proper blade a RAS can be used to cut steel plates. By
lowering the depth a little at a time and making numerous of passes,
I've cut 1/2" steel plates with great accuracy and perfectly smooth
edges.
I've used my miter saw to cut 3/4" steel rod. I even turned off the
lights and took a picture of my son cutting some rod. Really cool
picture with the sparks lighting up the shop!
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| Edwin Pawlowski 2008-03-30, 5:25 pm |
|
"DerbyDad03" <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote in message
news:6dc55525-e543-4ac4-9b7e-c61c9601e944@c65g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 29, 2:51 pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" <e...@snet.net> wrote:
> "DerbyDad03" <teamarr...@eznet.net> wrote in message
>
> If you lift the front edge of the board slightly, you can easily
> complete the cut on a 2 x 6 on a saw that only claims a DOC of 5 3/8".
> Make your cut with the board flat, then just tilt the board up enough
> so that a few more teeth on the front of the blade complete the cut.
>
> I do it all the time with my Delta 10" non-slider.
>
> ******************************
>
> I can see nasty repercussions if not done properly though.
That statement applies to the use of *so* many power tools as well as
*so* many other situations in our daily lives.
BTW...after I posted my method, I was watching one of the multitudes
of "home" shows on TV and so one the supposed experts apply the same
technique.
*****************************
That may be true, but I'm still not going to advise someone that may have
never used a power saw to turn the board while the blade is spinning at high
rpm.
| |
| DerbyDad03 2008-03-30, 5:25 pm |
| On Mar 30, 2:57=A0pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" <e...@snet.net> wrote:
> "DerbyDad03" <teamarr...@eznet.net> wrote in message
>
> news:6dc55525-e543-4ac4-9b7e-c61c9601e944@c65g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
> On Mar 29, 2:51 pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" <e...@snet.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> That statement applies to the use of *so* many power tools as well as
> *so* many other situations in our daily lives.
>
> BTW...after I posted my method, I was watching one of the multitudes
> of "home" shows on TV and so one the supposed experts apply the same
> technique.
>
> *****************************
>
> That may be true, but I'm still not going to advise someone that may have
> never used a power saw to turn the board while the blade is spinning at hi=
gh
> rpm.
re: turn the board
Are you sure we're talking about the same thing? Are you equating my
use of the word "lift" with "turn"?
I would never tell someone to *turn* a board while cutting it, unless
it was a scroll or band saw...
=2E..or if they were cutting a circle on a table saw.
I just did that for my daughter last weekend. Cut her a perfectly
round 17" circle out of 3/4 MDF. I love that technique.
| |
| Wayne Whitney 2008-03-30, 5:25 pm |
| On 2008-03-30, DerbyDad03 <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
> Are you sure we're talking about the same thing? Are you equating my
> use of the word "lift" with "turn"?
Lifting the front edge of the board while the rear edge stays against
the fence amounts to turning it about its long axis. I think it is
safe enough to do after the saw arm has bottomed out as long as you
hold the saw arm still.
Cheers, Wayne
| |
| DerbyDad03 2008-03-30, 5:25 pm |
| On Mar 30, 3:49=A0pm, Wayne Whitney <whit...@post.harvard.edu> wrote:
> On 2008-03-30, DerbyDad03 <teamarr...@eznet.net> wrote:
>
>
> Lifting the front edge of the board while the rear edge stays against
> the fence amounts to turning it about its long axis. =A0I think it is
> safe enough to do after the saw arm has bottomed out as long as you
> hold the saw arm still.
>
> Cheers, Wayne
re: I think it is safe enough to do after the saw arm has bottomed out
as long as you hold the saw arm still.
Which is exactly procedure that is used.
| |
| Douglas Johnson 2008-03-31, 1:25 pm |
| "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote:
>Well, these are both good replies, from Darby and cm.
>
>I would use it to cut perhaps ten boards a year. I am not a carpenter, or
>much of a handyman. I have a circular saw that I use a few times a year,
>but I just find that I am not "handy" at using it to cut a perfectly
>straight line !! I am making some shelfs soon, and very simple items like
>that.
Get a Speed Square:
http://www.swansontoolco.com/produc...ed_squares.html
-- Doug
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