Alternative Power sources - Radiant heat ....again

Author

Radiant heat ....again

Jim & lil

2005-10-17, 12:21 am

Hi there again,

Thanks for the advice and web pages on the radiant heat. I have been
bombarded by contractors here in Canada....I have agreed on a price fom a
contractor that will be pouring the base...I am to supply 2 inch styrofoam
and to install the

Solar Flare

2005-10-17, 12:21 am

oooops....

"Jim & lil" <myplace@home.com> wrote in message
news:11l62snm4u9r019@corp.supernews.com...
> Hi there again,
>
> Thanks for the advice and web pages on the radiant heat. I have been
> bombarded by contractors here in Canada....I have agreed on a price fom a
> contractor that will be pouring the base...I am to supply 2 inch styrofoam
> and to install the
>
>

Jim & lil

2005-10-17, 12:21 am

"Jim & lil" <myplace@home.com> wrote in message
news:11l62snm4u9r019@corp.supernews.com...
> Hi there again,
>
> Thanks for the advice and web pages on the radiant heat. I have
> been bombarded by contractors here in Canada....I have agreed on a price
> fom a contractor that will be pouring the base...I am to supply 2 inch
> styrofoam and to install the
>

Jim & lil

2005-10-17, 1:21 am

I apologize for not finishing my thoughts here.. I was called away at the
doorbell....I had other "net users"at home here just hit send while I was
gone...so will continue under my original post...Thank-you and God bless.
Jim
"Jim & lil" <myplace@home.com> wrote in message
news:11l62snm4u9r019@corp.supernews.com...
> Hi there again,
>
> Thanks for the advice and web pages on the radiant heat. I have
> been bombarded by contractors here in Canada....I have agreed on a price
> fom a contractor that will be pouring the base...I am to supply 2 inch
> styrofoam base
> and to install the floor heating pipes that I plan on using (PEX brand)..

My question to this group is to ask what schematic is available to lay
the pipes based on a 24 X 30 ft cement pad.? .. I have Google searched this
to death...regards and sorry for the premature send...jim
>

Ecnerwal

2005-10-17, 1:21 am

In article <11l66b54560iu48@corp.supernews.com>,
"Jim & lil" <myplace@home.com> wrote:
> My question to this group is to ask what schematic is available to lay
> the pipes based on a 24 X 30 ft cement pad.? .. I have Google searched this
> to death...regards and sorry for the premature send...jim

General suggestions are easy to find, as in the radiant company (pointed
to earlier) manual (free download from their site). Precision not
required, even spacing can be good, sketching out on some graph paper
might help. Somewhat tighter spacing where you expect more heat loss
(around perimeter). When you lay the actual pipe out, tie it in place
loosely and infrequently until you get the whole run in place, so you
can adjust it if you need to without having to undo hundreds of tightly
fastened ties. You need to make your layout to work with your install -
where do you need/want the manifold to be, etc. When it's adjusted, then
go back and tie it all down as well as you like.

Note that the size of the pipe has an effect on the desired spacing.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

David Hunt

2005-10-17, 1:21 am

First thing I'd do is to go to;
http://www.radiantec.com/440/440.pdf
Basic, but a good intro.

I'd look at http://www.radiantec.com/installation.htm

Then I'd just go to http://www.radiantec.com .
There may be others (quite possibly better ones), but if you ask for
literature they
are fast at getting it to you (they were for me, anyway)
later,
dave

"Jim & lil" <myplace@home.com> wrote in message
news:11l66b54560iu48@corp.supernews.com...
> I apologize for not finishing my thoughts here.. I was called away at the
> doorbell....I had other "net users"at home here just hit send while I was
> gone...so will continue under my original post...Thank-you and God bless.
> Jim
> "Jim & lil" <myplace@home.com> wrote in message
> news:11l62snm4u9r019@corp.supernews.com...
brand)..[color=darkred]
>
> My question to this group is to ask what schematic is available to
lay
> the pipes based on a 24 X 30 ft cement pad.? .. I have Google searched
this
> to death...regards and sorry for the premature send...jim
>
>
>

Jim & Lil

2005-10-17, 4:21 pm

Wow!....Thanks so much for the help ......Jim

"David Hunt" <dhunt911@REMOVEverizon.NO-SPAM-OR-CRAP.net> wrote in message
news:_dF4f.24431$p_.12461@trndny05...
> First thing I'd do is to go to;
> http://www.radiantec.com/440/440.pdf
> Basic, but a good intro.
>
> I'd look at http://www.radiantec.com/installation.htm
>
> Then I'd just go to http://www.radiantec.com .
> There may be others (quite possibly better ones), but if you ask for
> literature they
> are fast at getting it to you (they were for me, anyway)
> later,
> dave
>
> "Jim & lil" <myplace@home.com> wrote in message
> news:11l66b54560iu48@corp.supernews.com...
> brand)..
> lay
> this
>
>

Solar Flare

2005-10-17, 10:21 pm

Some of the installation DIY websites disagree with that spacing argument.

The recommended spacing for 3/4 inch was 16 inches and the spacing for 1/2 inch
was 8 inches.

While I am not sure I agree the math behind this and have no personal
experience, I have noted that the larger pipe can carry more heat to the colder
end of the pipe and therefore may be able to carry more concrete mass for each
linear span.

Anybody have more information on this spacing thing? Is there exact formulae
for concrete slab heating?

"Ecnerwal" <LawrenceSMITH@SOuthernVERmont.NyET> wrote in message
news:LawrenceSMITH-5D6017.23463016102005@news.verizon.net...
> In article <11l66b54560iu48@corp.supernews.com>,
> "Jim & lil" <myplace@home.com> wrote:
>
>
> General suggestions are easy to find, as in the radiant company (pointed
> to earlier) manual (free download from their site). Precision not
> required, even spacing can be good, sketching out on some graph paper
> might help. Somewhat tighter spacing where you expect more heat loss
> (around perimeter). When you lay the actual pipe out, tie it in place
> loosely and infrequently until you get the whole run in place, so you
> can adjust it if you need to without having to undo hundreds of tightly
> fastened ties. You need to make your layout to work with your install -
> where do you need/want the manifold to be, etc. When it's adjusted, then
> go back and tie it all down as well as you like.
>
> Note that the size of the pipe has an effect on the desired spacing.
>
> --
> Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

JensenC

2005-10-20, 11:21 pm

"Jim & lil" <myplace@home.com> wrote in message
news:11l66b54560iu48@corp.supernews.com...
> I apologize for not finishing my thoughts here.. I was called away at the
> doorbell....I had other "net users"at home here just hit send while I was
> gone...so will continue under my original post...Thank-you and God bless.
> Jim
> "Jim & lil" <myplace@home.com> wrote in message
> news:11l62snm4u9r019@corp.supernews.com...
brand)..[color=darkred]
>
> My question to this group is to ask what schematic is available to
lay
> the pipes based on a 24 X 30 ft cement pad.? .. I have Google searched
this
> to death...regards and sorry for the premature send...jim
>
>
>
I did a 24' x 26' slab. 4 loops about 140' long each (including leaders) of
1/2" O2 barrier PEX spaced 12" OC. It was zip tied to the top side of 1/2"
rebar, also 12" OC, setting on "rebar chairs" over 2 inch Dow Stryrofoam.
Edge loss is critical so use 2-3" around the perimeter. My 1" deep saw-cut
control joints more or less quarter the slab and the cuts are at the 12" gap
between loops or the tubing dips under the rebar for protection. I did not
staple the tubing to the foam because it weakens the slab and slows response
time. My slab is 4" thick but if I did it again it would be 5". Some Pex
manufacturers recommend reducing or releasing the 60 psi test pressure
during the pour to improve conduction contact. Must be very careful not to
puncture the tubing but it is very tough so I wasn't worried. It's a good
idea to zip tie the pex often because it has a strong tendancy to float up
during the pour. My layout ended up being a combination of "L" and "S"
serpentines.
I used following references for design help:
Wirsbo CDAM (Complete Design Assistance Manual)
John Siegenthaler articles on hydronics at pmmag.com, pmengineer.com,
hydronicpros.com (there's a bunch of free articles if you can search them
out)
Good luck.

Solar Flare

2005-10-21, 7:21 pm

Would it be a good idea to pass the PEX through a sleeve where the crack control
cuts are going to be?

This would allow the PEX to slide around the concrete break under the cut. The
sleeve could be a piece of PVC conduit etc..

"JensenC" <farview at frontier dot net> wrote in message
news:dj9h6l02drq@enews2.newsguy.com...
> I did a 24' x 26' slab. 4 loops about 140' long each (including leaders) of
> 1/2" O2 barrier PEX spaced 12" OC. It was zip tied to the top side of 1/2"
> rebar, also 12" OC, setting on "rebar chairs" over 2 inch Dow Stryrofoam.
> Edge loss is critical so use 2-3" around the perimeter. My 1" deep saw-cut
> control joints more or less quarter the slab and the cuts are at the 12" gap
> between loops or the tubing dips under the rebar for protection. I did not
> staple the tubing to the foam because it weakens the slab and slows response
> time. My slab is 4" thick but if I did it again it would be 5". Some Pex
> manufacturers recommend reducing or releasing the 60 psi test pressure
> during the pour to improve conduction contact. Must be very careful not to
> puncture the tubing but it is very tough so I wasn't worried. It's a good
> idea to zip tie the pex often because it has a strong tendancy to float up
> during the pour. My layout ended up being a combination of "L" and "S"
> serpentines.
> I used following references for design help:
> Wirsbo CDAM (Complete Design Assistance Manual)
> John Siegenthaler articles on hydronics at pmmag.com, pmengineer.com,
> hydronicpros.com (there's a bunch of free articles if you can search them
> out)
> Good luck.
>
>

JensenC

2005-10-22, 12:21 am

Yes that would work. I just used foam pipe insulation and kept crossings to
a minimum.

"Solar Flare" <sflare@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:-uudnT2h8KvcwsTenZ2dnUVZ_smdnZ2d@golden.net...
> Would it be a good idea to pass the PEX through a sleeve where the crack
control
> cuts are going to be?
>
> This would allow the PEX to slide around the concrete break under the cut.
The
> sleeve could be a piece of PVC conduit etc..
>
> "JensenC" <farview at frontier dot net> wrote in message
> news:dj9h6l02drq@enews2.newsguy.com...
leaders) of[color=darkred]
1/2"[color=darkred]
Stryrofoam.[color=darkred]
saw-cut[color=darkred]
gap[color=darkred]
not[color=darkred]
response[color=darkred]
Pex[color=darkred]
to[color=darkred]
good[color=darkred]
up[color=darkred]
them[color=darkred]
>
>

LinkBot