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Microwaves and MSN
|
|
| Ulysses 2005-07-08, 4:25 am |
| Well, my little Honda eu2000i finally wore out after only about 12,000 hours
(well, maybe 13,000). I was beginning to think it would last forever.
Meanwhile (until I get the engine rebuilt or get a new one) I have to run my
microwave from a 5000 watt generator. I tried running a little 700 watt
microwave from my Wagan 700 watt MSN inverter and the test water took a long
time to get hot. The inverter was screaming the whole time. Are microwave
ovens that particular about the input waveform? Will I ever be able to make
microwave popcorn again?
At the moment I'm putting together one of those gas engine running an
alternator type chargers and I'm thinking of getting a 1500 watt MSN
(Xantrex maybe) for the microwave etc. I only have two 220Ah 6V batteries
so I won't be running it very much. The biggest obstacle right now is Auto
Zone can only look up parts for a particular car so I need a specific part
number for a GM one wire 63 amp alternator with built-in voltage regulator.
I tried running my Vector Smart Charger from a Coleman Pulse 1850 generator
but it will not charge faster than about 13 amps. It worked great with the
little Honda inverter generator. I also tried running the battery charger
for a few moments from the inverter that was connected to the batteries it
was charging and it seemed to work fine (of course the inverter was
protesting the stupidity of the whole situation) so I'm thinking that if
it's possible to run the inverter directly from the alternator then I could
go back to 3 stage charging which I would prefer over just charging directly
from an alternator and keeping my eye on it all the time. And of course it
would have to be connected to the well-charged batteries again to run the
microwave.
If all goes well I should have a $310 inverter generator of around 800
watts. (Honda 4 hp engine $150, Xantrex 1500 watt inverter $100, pulley
$10, and alternator $50).
| |
| Ulysses 2005-07-08, 4:25 am |
| Um, er, make that MSW. How many times did I write that? Time for a nap
maybe.
"Ulysses" <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:11crp2o9blm65f1@corp.supernews.com...
quote:
> Well, my little Honda eu2000i finally wore out after only about 12,000
hours
quote:
> (well, maybe 13,000). I was beginning to think it would last forever.
> Meanwhile (until I get the engine rebuilt or get a new one) I have to run
my
quote:
> microwave from a 5000 watt generator. I tried running a little 700 watt
> microwave from my Wagan 700 watt MSN inverter and the test water took a
long
quote:
> time to get hot. The inverter was screaming the whole time. Are
microwave
quote:
> ovens that particular about the input waveform? Will I ever be able to
make
quote:
> microwave popcorn again?
>
> At the moment I'm putting together one of those gas engine running an
> alternator type chargers and I'm thinking of getting a 1500 watt MSN
> (Xantrex maybe) for the microwave etc. I only have two 220Ah 6V batteries
> so I won't be running it very much. The biggest obstacle right now is
Auto
quote:
> Zone can only look up parts for a particular car so I need a specific part
> number for a GM one wire 63 amp alternator with built-in voltage
regulator.
quote:
>
> I tried running my Vector Smart Charger from a Coleman Pulse 1850
generator
quote:
> but it will not charge faster than about 13 amps. It worked great with
the
quote:
> little Honda inverter generator. I also tried running the battery charger
> for a few moments from the inverter that was connected to the batteries it
> was charging and it seemed to work fine (of course the inverter was
> protesting the stupidity of the whole situation) so I'm thinking that if
> it's possible to run the inverter directly from the alternator then I
could
quote:
> go back to 3 stage charging which I would prefer over just charging
directly
quote:
> from an alternator and keeping my eye on it all the time. And of course
it
quote:
> would have to be connected to the well-charged batteries again to run the
> microwave.
>
> If all goes well I should have a $310 inverter generator of around 800
> watts. (Honda 4 hp engine $150, Xantrex 1500 watt inverter $100, pulley
> $10, and alternator $50).
>
>
| |
| Steve Spence 2005-07-08, 12:25 pm |
| your 700 watt (cooking power) actually pulls about 1000 watts from the
plug, so your 700watt inverter was in surge mode. not good for extended
run times. However, Even on my 2500 watt inverter, though my inverter is
happy, my microwave sounds like someone threw sand in it's gears. It's
definitely a waveform issue. I didn't get a reduction in cooking times.
Steve Spence
Dir., Green Trust, http://www.green-trust.org
Contributing Editor, http://www.off-grid.net
http://www.rebelwolf.com/essn.html
Ulysses wrote:
quote:
> Well, my little Honda eu2000i finally wore out after only about 12,000 hours
> (well, maybe 13,000). I was beginning to think it would last forever.
> Meanwhile (until I get the engine rebuilt or get a new one) I have to run my
> microwave from a 5000 watt generator. I tried running a little 700 watt
> microwave from my Wagan 700 watt MSN inverter and the test water took a long
> time to get hot. The inverter was screaming the whole time. Are microwave
> ovens that particular about the input waveform? Will I ever be able to make
> microwave popcorn again?
>
> At the moment I'm putting together one of those gas engine running an
> alternator type chargers and I'm thinking of getting a 1500 watt MSN
> (Xantrex maybe) for the microwave etc. I only have two 220Ah 6V batteries
> so I won't be running it very much. The biggest obstacle right now is Auto
> Zone can only look up parts for a particular car so I need a specific part
> number for a GM one wire 63 amp alternator with built-in voltage regulator.
>
> I tried running my Vector Smart Charger from a Coleman Pulse 1850 generator
> but it will not charge faster than about 13 amps. It worked great with the
> little Honda inverter generator. I also tried running the battery charger
> for a few moments from the inverter that was connected to the batteries it
> was charging and it seemed to work fine (of course the inverter was
> protesting the stupidity of the whole situation) so I'm thinking that if
> it's possible to run the inverter directly from the alternator then I could
> go back to 3 stage charging which I would prefer over just charging directly
> from an alternator and keeping my eye on it all the time. And of course it
> would have to be connected to the well-charged batteries again to run the
> microwave.
>
> If all goes well I should have a $310 inverter generator of around 800
> watts. (Honda 4 hp engine $150, Xantrex 1500 watt inverter $100, pulley
> $10, and alternator $50).
>
>
| |
| George Ghio 2005-07-08, 12:25 pm |
| Well not quite correct. Surge would only last for perhaps thirty
seconds. Most likely less before shut down. Most good quality inverters
will have a continuous rating, a half hour rating and a surge rating.
It will be interesting to see if your inverter will run directly from an
alternator. I suspect it will go over-voltage and shut down. It will
depend on how well the reg reacts to the load of the inverter. Let us
know what happens.
Steve Spence wrote:[vbcol=seagreen]
> your 700 watt (cooking power) actually pulls about 1000 watts from the
> plug, so your 700watt inverter was in surge mode. not good for extended
> run times. However, Even on my 2500 watt inverter, though my inverter is
> happy, my microwave sounds like someone threw sand in it's gears. It's
> definitely a waveform issue. I didn't get a reduction in cooking times.
>
>
> Steve Spence
> Dir., Green Trust, http://www.green-trust.org
> Contributing Editor, http://www.off-grid.net
> http://www.rebelwolf.com/essn.html
>
> Ulysses wrote:
>
| |
| Tim Keating 2005-07-08, 12:25 pm |
| On Fri, 08 Jul 2005 07:12:44 -0400, Steve Spence
<sspence@green-trust.org> wrote:
quote:
>your 700 watt (cooking power) actually pulls about 1000 watts from the
>plug, so your 700watt inverter was in surge mode. not good for extended
>run times. However, Even on my 2500 watt inverter, though my inverter is
>happy, my microwave sounds like someone threw sand in it's gears. It's
>definitely a waveform issue. I didn't get a reduction in cooking times.
I suggest that you get something like a Panasonic Microwave with
Inverter technology(~100$). I.E. Power settings(3 to 10) do more
than just alter the duty cycle.
My midsize Pana inverter uW unit( draws 1850 watts at max(10) and
only 850 watts at power setting number 5.
Notes: Inverter type uW ovens are weight quite a bit less than a
conventional microwaves oven, and will run on MSW AC input just fine.
(I.E. They rectify AC into DC before using a PWM/transformer setup
circuit to drive the magnetron). ref..
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial.../microwave.html
[vbcol=seagreen]
>
>
>Steve Spence
>Dir., Green Trust, http://www.green-trust.org
>Contributing Editor, http://www.off-grid.net
> http://www.rebelwolf.com/essn.html
>
>Ulysses wrote:
| |
| wmbjk 2005-07-08, 12:25 pm |
| On Thu, 7 Jul 2005 19:26:30 -0700, "Ulysses"
<therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote:
quote:
>Well, my little Honda eu2000i finally wore out after only about 12,000 hours
>(well, maybe 13,000). I was beginning to think it would last forever.
That's impressive. Did it lose compression, start knocking, or blow
up?
quote:
> Will I ever be able to make
>microwave popcorn again?
I'm sure you'll get it done. And when you do, don't forget to write up
the details, because there's one participant here who just *loves*
hearing about microwaves being run on home power. I may even pick up a
few Delco 10SIs at the wreckers, and offer them free to everyone who
writes about running microwaves, bread makers, etc. :-)
quote:
>At the moment I'm putting together one of those gas engine running an
>alternator type chargers and I'm thinking of getting a 1500 watt MSN
>(Xantrex maybe) for the microwave etc. I only have two 220Ah 6V batteries
>so I won't be running it very much. The biggest obstacle right now is Auto
>Zone can only look up parts for a particular car so I need a specific part
>number for a GM one wire 63 amp alternator with built-in voltage regulator.
I'm a bit doubtful that one-wire alternators were stock on anything.
This outfit http://www.alternatorparts.com/ has lots of info, custom
builts, and mod kits. Although I don't see the one-wire kit offered
except as part of a high-output kit. Here it is separate
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/alt-1.shtml The same outfit has a
reaaaally detailed article about the pros and cons
http://www.madelectrical.com/electr...threewire.shtml
10si, one-wire alternator brand new, $50
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...item=7982875423
I've seen recommendations both for and against using the built-in
regulator. I removed it on mine in favor of a rheostat. I also
replaced the internal rectifier with a more robust, externally
mounted, fan cooled setup, but that was only necessary because I
doubled the alternator's original output. Here is some good advice on
building these things
http://www.greenspun.com/bboard/q-a...?msg_id=001BAG.
And here http://www.frenergy.net/gdc/ are some ready-made units with
features you might consider incorporating.
One other note. I needed some bearings for the furling pivot on my
wind generator a few months back, and the only place I could find them
locally was an automotive electrical shop. I got to chatting with the
owner, and he showed me a really nice PM Delco alternator. 125A, 24V
IIRC, $250 outright. But it had an internal regulator, and I didn't
have time to get into the practicality of bypassing that.
Wayne
| |
| Ulysses 2005-07-08, 6:25 pm |
|
"wmbjk" <wmbjkREMOVE@citlink.net> wrote in message
news:iqvsc1thu0ln20b480tcfj2i7jqas8v7ku@4ax.com...
quote:
> On Thu, 7 Jul 2005 19:26:30 -0700, "Ulysses"
> <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
hours[vbcol=seagreen]
>
> That's impressive. Did it lose compression, start knocking, or blow
> up?
It gradually started getting louder which I suspect was engine noise due to
worn piston rings and bearings. At the end it was running poorly, going for
a few seconds then almost dying, going, dying... as though it was not
getting enough fuel or perhaps had a bad ignition coil. I bypassed the fuel
filters to check for a clogged fuel line and it was the same. The main
indicator (for me anyway) was the oil didn't look so good the last 2
changes. When it was new at 20 hours (recommended by Honda) the oil looked
like it just came out of the bottle so I gradually increased the changing
intervals until it got to where it looked like it needed changing and
settled on around 50 hours. I was usually running it at about 1/4 load. Up
until recently the oil would look slightly brown and was still transparent
at 50 hours. The last time it was black after a few hours, which might be
normal for a Briggs engine but not a Honda ;-) I am now awaiting the bad
news (repair costs) as I do not have the tools and quite enough experience
to rebuild the engine myself. There is no short block available. From what
I gather this is the first eu2000 anyone knows about that has worn out.
quote:
>
>
> I'm sure you'll get it done. And when you do, don't forget to write up
> the details, because there's one participant here who just *loves*
> hearing about microwaves being run on home power. I may even pick up a
> few Delco 10SIs at the wreckers, and offer them free to everyone who
> writes about running microwaves, bread makers, etc. :-)
Aha! Delco 10SI is the model number of the alternator I need? I'm having
trouble getting a part number to take to the auto parts store. On the
Epicenter site (http://theepicenter.com/tow02077.html) they recommend using
a 1-wire GM alternator and then give instructions for one with 3 wires and a
ground so I'm not quite sure what the model number they give is for.
quote:
>
batteries[vbcol=seagreen]
Auto[vbcol=seagreen]
part[vbcol=seagreen]
regulator.[vbcol=seagreen]
>
> I'm a bit doubtful that one-wire alternators were stock on anything.
> This outfit http://www.alternatorparts.com/ has lots of info, custom
> builts, and mod kits. Although I don't see the one-wire kit offered
> except as part of a high-output kit. Here it is separate
> http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/alt-1.shtml The same outfit has a
> reaaaally detailed article about the pros and cons
> http://www.madelectrical.com/electr...threewire.shtml
>
> 10si, one-wire alternator brand new, $50
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...item=7982875423
>
> I've seen recommendations both for and against using the built-in
> regulator. I removed it on mine in favor of a rheostat. I also
> replaced the internal rectifier with a more robust, externally
> mounted, fan cooled setup, but that was only necessary because I
> doubled the alternator's original output. Here is some good advice on
> building these things
> http://www.greenspun.com/bboard/q-a...?msg_id=001BAG.
> And here http://www.frenergy.net/gdc/ are some ready-made units with
> features you might consider incorporating.
>
> One other note. I needed some bearings for the furling pivot on my
> wind generator a few months back, and the only place I could find them
> locally was an automotive electrical shop. I got to chatting with the
> owner, and he showed me a really nice PM Delco alternator. 125A, 24V
> IIRC, $250 outright. But it had an internal regulator, and I didn't
> have time to get into the practicality of bypassing that.
>
> Wayne
| |
| Ulysses 2005-07-08, 6:25 pm |
|
"wmbjk" <wmbjkREMOVE@citlink.net> wrote in message
news:iqvsc1thu0ln20b480tcfj2i7jqas8v7ku@4ax.com...
quote:
> On Thu, 7 Jul 2005 19:26:30 -0700, "Ulysses"
> <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
hours[vbcol=seagreen]
>
> That's impressive. Did it lose compression, start knocking, or blow
> up?
>
>
> I'm sure you'll get it done. And when you do, don't forget to write up
> the details, because there's one participant here who just *loves*
> hearing about microwaves being run on home power. I may even pick up a
> few Delco 10SIs at the wreckers, and offer them free to everyone who
> writes about running microwaves, bread makers, etc. :-)
I made some microwave popcorn last night using a standard (engine driving a
120VAc alternator) and it took about 6 minutes and only about 3/4 of it
popped. With my Honda inverter generator it took about 3 mins 10 seconds
(very consistant) and nearly all of it popped.
quote:
>
batteries[vbcol=seagreen]
Auto[vbcol=seagreen]
part[vbcol=seagreen]
regulator.[vbcol=seagreen]
>
> I'm a bit doubtful that one-wire alternators were stock on anything.
> This outfit http://www.alternatorparts.com/ has lots of info, custom
> builts, and mod kits. Although I don't see the one-wire kit offered
> except as part of a high-output kit. Here it is separate
> http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/alt-1.shtml The same outfit has a
> reaaaally detailed article about the pros and cons
> http://www.madelectrical.com/electr...threewire.shtml
>
> 10si, one-wire alternator brand new, $50
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...item=7982875423
>
> I've seen recommendations both for and against using the built-in
> regulator. I removed it on mine in favor of a rheostat. I also
> replaced the internal rectifier with a more robust, externally
> mounted, fan cooled setup, but that was only necessary because I
> doubled the alternator's original output. Here is some good advice on
> building these things
> http://www.greenspun.com/bboard/q-a...?msg_id=001BAG.
> And here http://www.frenergy.net/gdc/ are some ready-made units with
> features you might consider incorporating.
Thanks for all the great links! I'd found one of them before but was unable
to find it again (it must be on Favorites *somewhere*).
quote:
>
> One other note. I needed some bearings for the furling pivot on my
> wind generator a few months back, and the only place I could find them
> locally was an automotive electrical shop. I got to chatting with the
> owner, and he showed me a really nice PM Delco alternator. 125A, 24V
> IIRC, $250 outright. But it had an internal regulator, and I didn't
> have time to get into the practicality of bypassing that.
>
> Wayne
It sounds like I'm NOT going to be able to control the current output from
the alternator with engine speed which is what I was expecting. I thought
the voltage, due to the internal regulator, would be fairly constant and
current would depend therefore on the engine/alternator speed.
| |
| Ulysses 2005-07-08, 6:25 pm |
|
"wmbjk" <wmbjkREMOVE@citlink.net> wrote in message
news:iqvsc1thu0ln20b480tcfj2i7jqas8v7ku@4ax.com...
quote:
> On Thu, 7 Jul 2005 19:26:30 -0700, "Ulysses"
> <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
hours[vbcol=seagreen]
>
> That's impressive. Did it lose compression, start knocking, or blow
> up?
>
>
> I'm sure you'll get it done. And when you do, don't forget to write up
> the details, because there's one participant here who just *loves*
> hearing about microwaves being run on home power. I may even pick up a
> few Delco 10SIs at the wreckers, and offer them free to everyone who
> writes about running microwaves, bread makers, etc. :-)
>
batteries[vbcol=seagreen]
Auto[vbcol=seagreen]
part[vbcol=seagreen]
regulator.[vbcol=seagreen]
>
> I'm a bit doubtful that one-wire alternators were stock on anything.
> This outfit http://www.alternatorparts.com/ has lots of info,
Thanks. I think I found a part number Auto Zone can deal with.
custom
quote:
> builts, and mod kits. Although I don't see the one-wire kit offered
> except as part of a high-output kit. Here it is separate
> http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/alt-1.shtml The same outfit has a
> reaaaally detailed article about the pros and cons
> http://www.madelectrical.com/electr...threewire.shtml
>
> 10si, one-wire alternator brand new, $50
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...item=7982875423
>
> I've seen recommendations both for and against using the built-in
> regulator. I removed it on mine in favor of a rheostat. I also
> replaced the internal rectifier with a more robust, externally
> mounted, fan cooled setup, but that was only necessary because I
> doubled the alternator's original output. Here is some good advice on
> building these things
> http://www.greenspun.com/bboard/q-a...?msg_id=001BAG.
> And here http://www.frenergy.net/gdc/ are some ready-made units with
> features you might consider incorporating.
>
> One other note. I needed some bearings for the furling pivot on my
> wind generator a few months back, and the only place I could find them
> locally was an automotive electrical shop. I got to chatting with the
> owner, and he showed me a really nice PM Delco alternator. 125A, 24V
> IIRC, $250 outright. But it had an internal regulator, and I didn't
> have time to get into the practicality of bypassing that.
>
> Wayne
| |
| Steve Spence 2005-07-08, 6:25 pm |
| The reason for not going with a one wire unit is that it really has no
way of knowing when the battery is fully charged. You need that battery
voltage sense wire to keep the alternator outputting power until the
batteries are fully charged.
Steve Spence
Dir., Green Trust, http://www.green-trust.org
Contributing Editor, http://www.off-grid.net
http://www.rebelwolf.com/essn.html
Ulysses wrote:
quote:
> "wmbjk" <wmbjkREMOVE@citlink.net> wrote in message
> news:iqvsc1thu0ln20b480tcfj2i7jqas8v7ku@4ax.com...
>
>
> hours
>
>
> batteries
>
>
> Auto
>
>
> part
>
>
> regulator.
>
>
>
> Thanks. I think I found a part number Auto Zone can deal with.
>
> custom
>
>
>
>
| |
| Ulysses 2005-07-08, 11:25 pm |
|
"Steve Spence" <sspence@green-trust.org> wrote in message
news:fhAze.152797$t07.22626@fe12.lga...
quote:
> The reason for not going with a one wire unit is that it really has no
> way of knowing when the battery is fully charged. You need that battery
> voltage sense wire to keep the alternator outputting power until the
> batteries are fully charged.
OK. Thanks. I got an alternator with the R and F connections so I gather
the R is for battery sensing? The instructions on theepicenter.com don't
seem to say. I'm not altogether sure which alternator I got at this point.
I finally deduced that I needed one for a 1985 GMC 1500 pickup with a 305
engine. At the moment I'm looking at the wiring of the R and F connections
so maybe I can get more than 3 volts out of the thing.
[vbcol=seagreen]
>
> Steve Spence
> Dir., Green Trust, http://www.green-trust.org
> Contributing Editor, http://www.off-grid.net
> http://www.rebelwolf.com/essn.html
>
> Ulysses wrote:
| |
| John P Bengi 2005-07-08, 11:25 pm |
| ....and half their rated power to boot. I have one of those and the 600W
ovens have nmore power than the 1100W monster Panasonic I have.
"Tim Keating" <NotForJunkEmail@directinternet11.com1> wrote in message
news:tvvsc1lessarh75n0mc0k8i13fl35eik06@4ax.com...
quote:
> On Fri, 08 Jul 2005 07:12:44 -0400, Steve Spence
> <sspence@green-trust.org> wrote:
>
>
> I suggest that you get something like a Panasonic Microwave with
> Inverter technology(~100$). I.E. Power settings(3 to 10) do more
> than just alter the duty cycle.
>
> My midsize Pana inverter uW unit( draws 1850 watts at max(10) and
> only 850 watts at power setting number 5.
>
> Notes: Inverter type uW ovens are weight quite a bit less than a
> conventional microwaves oven, and will run on MSW AC input just fine.
> (I.E. They rectify AC into DC before using a PWM/transformer setup
> circuit to drive the magnetron). ref..
>
> http://www.panasonic.com/industrial.../microwave.html
>
>
hours[vbcol=seagreen]
run my[vbcol=seagreen]
watt[vbcol=seagreen]
long[vbcol=seagreen]
microwave[vbcol=seagreen]
make[vbcol=seagreen]
batteries[vbcol=seagreen]
Auto[vbcol=seagreen]
part[vbcol=seagreen]
regulator.[vbcol=seagreen]
generator[vbcol=seagreen]
the[vbcol=seagreen]
charger[vbcol=seagreen]
it[vbcol=seagreen]
if[vbcol=seagreen]
could[vbcol=seagreen]
directly[vbcol=seagreen]
course it[vbcol=seagreen]
the[vbcol=seagreen]
pulley[vbcol=seagreen]
>
| |
| Ulysses 2005-07-09, 11:25 pm |
|
"George Ghio" <AKA@nomailhere.com> wrote in message
news:42ce7bdc_4@news.chariot.net.au...
quote:
> Well not quite correct. Surge would only last for perhaps thirty
> seconds. Most likely less before shut down. Most good quality inverters
> will have a continuous rating, a half hour rating and a surge rating.
>
> It will be interesting to see if your inverter will run directly from an
> alternator. I suspect it will go over-voltage and shut down. It will
> depend on how well the reg reacts to the load of the inverter. Let us
> know what happens.
So far so good. Actually better than I expected and as much as I could hope
for. I connected a Wagan MSW 700 watt inverter to the alternator (no
battery in system) and it worked fine. My voltmeter read about 14.5 VDC.
With the engine running at somewhere around 1500 rpm I was charging my
batteries with the Vector charger at about 25 amps and running this computer
(Dell desktop 2.4Ghz with 15" LCD monitor and also ran my inkjet printer)
and the only problem was the monitor winked out momentarily when the Vector
finished it's initial battery check mode, shut down, and restarted. The
computer stayed on and stayed connected :-D
I also expected that it might shut down from overvoltage and had plans to
add a big fat diode on the power side to drop the voltage a little but so
far it does not seem necessary. Some kind of buffer to stabilize the
voltage would be a big improvement here. Got any suggestions?
Now for the hard part: repackaging the whole thing so it's convenient to use
and move around.
[vbcol=seagreen]
>
> Steve Spence wrote:
watt[vbcol=seagreen]
if[vbcol=seagreen]
the[vbcol=seagreen]
pulley[vbcol=seagreen]
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| Anthony Matonak 2005-07-09, 11:25 pm |
| Ulysses wrote:
....
quote:
> So far so good. Actually better than I expected and as much as I could hope
> for. I connected a Wagan MSW 700 watt inverter to the alternator (no
> battery in system) and it worked fine.
....
quote:
> I also expected that it might shut down from overvoltage and had plans to
> add a big fat diode on the power side to drop the voltage a little but so
> far it does not seem necessary. Some kind of buffer to stabilize the
> voltage would be a big improvement here. Got any suggestions?
Just a wild thought, perhaps a battery? Maybe just a small one, like a
motorcycle version.
Anthony
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| George Ghio 2005-07-09, 11:25 pm |
|
Anthony Matonak wrote:
quote:
> Ulysses wrote:
> ...
>
>
> ...
>
>
>
> Just a wild thought, perhaps a battery? Maybe just a small one, like a
> motorcycle version.
>
> Anthony
Yep, that would probably do it.
| |
| Ulysses 2005-07-10, 4:25 am |
|
"George Ghio" <AKA@nomailhere.com> wrote in message
news:42d062c2$1_1@news.chariot.net.au...
quote:
>
>
> Anthony Matonak wrote:
to[vbcol=seagreen]
so[vbcol=seagreen]
>
> Yep, that would probably do it.
Well, that was my first thought too (gel cell maybe) but then don't I need
to figure out how to keep it from overcharging?
| |
|
| "Ulysses" <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:11d104hnvuh3d7d@corp.supernews.com:
quote:
>
> "George Ghio" <AKA@nomailhere.com> wrote in message
> news:42d062c2$1_1@news.chariot.net.au...
>
> Well, that was my first thought too (gel cell maybe) but then don't I
> need to figure out how to keep it from overcharging?
>
>
>
Use a car/motercycle battery. The Alternator has a built in
regulator.It'll probiably keep the voltage around 14.6, but drop the amps
down to next to nothing when your battery's charged. From what I
understand a gell cell don't like to float at 14.6v.
...........Rob
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