quote:

---

>As some of you know I'm working on one of those small engines turning an
>alternator battery chargers/12 volt generators. I'm using a fairly new
>Honda GC135 (4 HP) engine, a 5 inch pulley, and a 63 amp alternator
>(rebuilt, just bought it). It is the same as the one at
>http://theepicenter.com/tow02077.html (Delco-Remy 1100934 ).
>
>The output is 14 volts when not connected to a battery, and is lower
>depending upon the condition of the battery. For example, one battery read
>about 12.1 volts with the unit running. The problem is it was only charging
>at about 1 amp. When I increased the engine speed it only went up to about
>1.25 amps. It was the same with 3 different batteries. I have it connected
>exactly the same as the wiring diagram on the epicenter site. They have a
>switch on the "R" wire and say that it is difficult to pull the starter rope
>if not switched off when starting the engine but my engine started very
>easily with it connected. I'm sure the belt is not slipping and the pulley
>really can't slip the way it's attached.
>
>Any suggestions? Bad alternator maybe? Should I have bought the really
>expensive one? At this point I think I could produce more current hooking
>the alternator up to a bicycle and pedaling it.

quote:

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> On Fri, 8 Jul 2005 20:45:57 -0700, "Ulysses"
> <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
read[vbcol=seagreen]
charging[vbcol=seagreen]
about[vbcol=seagreen]
connected[vbcol=seagreen]
a[vbcol=seagreen]
rope[vbcol=seagreen]
pulley[vbcol=seagreen]
hooking[vbcol=seagreen]
>
> Compare your connections to the ones given here (reprinted below)
> http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm
>
> **********************
> The 10SI has three terminals (including those with a 1 wire
> regulator).
>
> * The large "BATT" terminal which gets connected to your battery
> positive. (Or Terminal Post if your vehicle is so equipped).
>
> And a dual terminal connector. (Repair pig-tails for this connector
> available at any autoparts store. Or, salvage with alternator if
> pulling the alternator from a vehicle).
>
> * The #1 Terminal. (Marked with a "1" on the case)
> o This terminal is used to connect to the dash warning
> light.
> + For the warning light, a lamp is wired in series
> with a switched voltage source. During normal operation the lamp stays
> off. If the regulator is damaged, the #1 terminal provides ground, and
> the warning lamp will light. Usually.
> o This terminal is also active on 1 wire regulator equipped
> 10SI alternators.
>
> * The #2 Terminal. (Marked with a "2" on the case)
> o This terminal is used to excite the 10SI into operation.
> (3-wire 10SI)
> o It is connected to the battery positive.
> + For simplicity you can connect the #2 connector
> pigtail directly to the "batt" terminal on the alternator.
> **********************************
>
> Wayne

quote:

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>
> "wmbjk" <wmbjkREMOVE@citlink.net> wrote in message
> news:aolvc1hr323rkad88i7t86ii3m3bht0dob@4ax.com...
> read
> charging
> about
> connected
> a
> rope
> pulley
> hooking
>
> Great info Wayne. Thanks! I'm printing it out now.
>
> Well, I woke up this morning and everything seems to be fine now. I am
> currently running this computer (Dell 2400 with 15" LCD screen, Inkjet
> printer too), a 6 amp 12 volt fan, an answering machine, and a battery
> charger charging at 10 amps from a 700 watt Wagan MSW inverter connected
> directly to the alternator with the engine running at somewhere around
> 1500
> rpm! No battery or capacitor etc in the system.
>
> The monitor winked out momentarily when the battery charger (Vector Smart
> Charger) was done doing it's initial check and restarted. The computer
> stay
> on and connected. Looks like it needs something in the system to buffer
> the
> voltage.
>
>