Alternative Power sources - Stovepipe with a Twist.

Author

Stovepipe with a Twist.

RipTides

2005-09-17, 6:21 am

No.. Its not a new drink.
But an idea I have been toying with.

Wanted some feedback on my idea of making a dual-wall stove pipe with a
helical channel inbetween the 2 walls. It would have an intake at the bottom
that would draw cold air from outside and an outlet at the top that allows
it to connect to a duct. The duct would be suspended from the ceiling and
run across to the opposite wall where it would end with a vent.

My thought is the action of the air being heated through radiaton would
cause the air between the walls to convect pulling the cold air from outside
and exausting warm air from the vent allowing it to cross the room before
being drawn back into the fireplace. The helical channel would maximize the
potential of the cold air to be warmed while travelling up the stovepipe. I
wouldn't want to really force the air through the system at all allowing
nature to work her own magic.

I came up with this because I have an old inefficent cast-iron stove sitting
in my shop and when I use it during winter it tends to cause a noticable
cold draft along any openings into the old shop. Also I was thinking of the
best way to reclaim the heat that goes.. literally.. up in smoke.

-Rip

George Ghio

2005-09-17, 9:21 am

Talk to The Maine Wood Heat co. A good book is "Rediscovering an old way
of Heating" Ask them about it.

RipTides wrote:
> No.. Its not a new drink.
> But an idea I have been toying with.
>
> Wanted some feedback on my idea of making a dual-wall stove pipe with a
> helical channel inbetween the 2 walls. It would have an intake at the bottom
> that would draw cold air from outside and an outlet at the top that allows
> it to connect to a duct. The duct would be suspended from the ceiling and
> run across to the opposite wall where it would end with a vent.
>
> My thought is the action of the air being heated through radiaton would
> cause the air between the walls to convect pulling the cold air from outside
> and exausting warm air from the vent allowing it to cross the room before
> being drawn back into the fireplace. The helical channel would maximize the
> potential of the cold air to be warmed while travelling up the stovepipe. I
> wouldn't want to really force the air through the system at all allowing
> nature to work her own magic.
>
> I came up with this because I have an old inefficent cast-iron stove sitting
> in my shop and when I use it during winter it tends to cause a noticable
> cold draft along any openings into the old shop. Also I was thinking of the
> best way to reclaim the heat that goes.. literally.. up in smoke.
>
> -Rip
>
>
>

someone@somewhere.org

2005-09-17, 2:21 pm

RipTides <ripvanwinkle@notso_hotmail.com> wrote:
> Wanted some feedback on my idea of making a dual-wall stove pipe with a
> helical channel inbetween the 2 walls. It would have an intake at the bottom
> that would draw cold air from outside and an outlet at the top that allows
> it to connect to a duct. The duct would be suspended from the ceiling and
> run across to the opposite wall where it would end with a vent.

[snip]

> I came up with this because I have an old inefficent cast-iron stove sitting
> in my shop and when I use it during winter it tends to cause a noticable
> cold draft along any openings into the old shop. Also I was thinking of the
> best way to reclaim the heat that goes.. literally.. up in smoke.

I'd think caulk/great stuff/fiberglass insulation stuffed in the cracks
and a less inefficent stove would be a better solution.

JoeSixPack

2005-09-17, 4:21 pm

"RipTides" <ripvanwinkle@notso_hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:pzQWe.13676$FW1.7954@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
> No.. Its not a new drink.
> But an idea I have been toying with.
>
> Wanted some feedback on my idea of making a dual-wall stove pipe with a
> helical channel inbetween the 2 walls. It would have an intake at the
> bottom that would draw cold air from outside and an outlet at the top that
> allows it to connect to a duct. The duct would be suspended from the
> ceiling and run across to the opposite wall where it would end with a
> vent.
>
> My thought is the action of the air being heated through radiaton would
> cause the air between the walls to convect pulling the cold air from
> outside and exausting warm air from the vent allowing it to cross the room
> before being drawn back into the fireplace. The helical channel would
> maximize the potential of the cold air to be warmed while travelling up
> the stovepipe. I wouldn't want to really force the air through the system
> at all allowing nature to work her own magic.
>
> I came up with this because I have an old inefficent cast-iron stove
> sitting in my shop and when I use it during winter it tends to cause a
> noticable cold draft along any openings into the old shop. Also I was
> thinking of the best way to reclaim the heat that goes.. literally.. up in
> smoke.
>
> -Rip

Great idea, and it's been tried many times. What usually happens is a
buildup of condensation water in the pipe, which usually carries with it a
lot of tar and creosote that has to run out somewhere, making a mess.

As with any heat-exchanger, the cooler outside air will cause the moisture
to come out of the warmer inside air, and collect somewhere. A water-drain
will be a necessity.

One of the best and simplest ideas that some of the old-timers used to use,
was to put the stove on the opposite side of the room from the chimney.
Then install the pipe an a shallow angle from above the stove, rising
slightly towards the point where it exits. Water will build up in such an
arrangement, run along the bottom of the pipe, even when the fire isn't lit,
carrying tar with it, back into the stove. The stovepipes have to be
installed backwards, so that the tar and water doesn't leak out the joints.

RipTides

2005-09-19, 2:21 am

Thanks all for the replies. Just an idea like I said. And good info.

-rip

"JoeSixPack" <olegp@telus.net> wrote in message
news:mNZWe.255839$tt5.62652@edtnps90...
>
> "RipTides" <ripvanwinkle@notso_hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:pzQWe.13676$FW1.7954@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
>
>
>
> Great idea, and it's been tried many times. What usually happens is a
> buildup of condensation water in the pipe, which usually carries with it a
> lot of tar and creosote that has to run out somewhere, making a mess.
>
> As with any heat-exchanger, the cooler outside air will cause the moisture
> to come out of the warmer inside air, and collect somewhere. A
> water-drain will be a necessity.
>
> One of the best and simplest ideas that some of the old-timers used to
> use, was to put the stove on the opposite side of the room from the
> chimney. Then install the pipe an a shallow angle from above the stove,
> rising slightly towards the point where it exits. Water will build up in
> such an arrangement, run along the bottom of the pipe, even when the fire
> isn't lit, carrying tar with it, back into the stove. The stovepipes have
> to be installed backwards, so that the tar and water doesn't leak out the
> joints.
>
>
>

barry@sme-online.com

2005-09-19, 12:21 pm

One of the well-documented reasons for the inefficiency of many older
stoves was/is their inherent leakiness. You can't really control the
flow-rate of air into the stove. Which is why many "franklins" of a few
years past had their own damper right at the outlet.

Closing the damper reduced the flow in, up & out, and allowed the
heated gases to remain a bit longer to give off useful heat. DAMHIKT.

OTOH, current-generation stoves are a _huge_ improvement, in efficiency
and reduced emissions.

Sealing and insulation make heating possible.

HTH,
J

@(none)

2005-09-19, 5:21 pm

RipTides wrote:
> No.. Its not a new drink.
> But an idea I have been toying with.
>
> Wanted some feedback on my idea of making a dual-wall stove pipe with a
> helical channel inbetween the 2 walls. It would have an intake at the bottom
> that would draw cold air from outside and an outlet at the top that allows
> it to connect to a duct. The duct would be suspended from the ceiling and
> run across to the opposite wall where it would end with a vent.
>
> My thought is the action of the air being heated through radiaton would
> cause the air between the walls to convect pulling the cold air from outside
> and exausting warm air from the vent allowing it to cross the room before
> being drawn back into the fireplace. The helical channel would maximize the
> potential of the cold air to be warmed while travelling up the stovepipe. I
> wouldn't want to really force the air through the system at all allowing
> nature to work her own magic.
>
> I came up with this because I have an old inefficent cast-iron stove sitting
> in my shop and when I use it during winter it tends to cause a noticable
> cold draft along any openings into the old shop. Also I was thinking of the
> best way to reclaim the heat that goes.. literally.. up in smoke.
>
> -Rip
>
>
>
I've tried getting more heat out of my stovepipe, and find that it tends
to distill my smoke into creosote much faster than allowing the smoke to
leave the pipe still hot.

doug swanson

ARL

2005-09-21, 11:21 pm

The issue with any combustion unit - be it wood stove, non-condensing gas
furnace or propane water heater - is that they draw air out of the house
during combustion. This air is replaced by air leaking in any crack or
leak. Sealing those areas of infiltration may result in dangerous
backdrafting of exhaust into the house.

The only proper solution is OUTSIDE AIR for COMBUSTION or MAKE-UP AIR.

OAC is ducting outside air directly to the combustion chamber.
MUA is done with an available unit such as a Skuttle brand unit

"RipTides" <ripvanwinkle@notso_hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:pzQWe.13676$FW1.7954@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
> No.. Its not a new drink.
> But an idea I have been toying with.
>
> Wanted some feedback on my idea of making a dual-wall stove pipe with a
> helical channel inbetween the 2 walls. It would have an intake at the
> bottom that would draw cold air from outside and an outlet at the top that
> allows it to connect to a duct. The duct would be suspended from the
> ceiling and run across to the opposite wall where it would end with a
> vent.
>
> My thought is the action of the air being heated through radiaton would
> cause the air between the walls to convect pulling the cold air from
> outside and exausting warm air from the vent allowing it to cross the room
> before being drawn back into the fireplace. The helical channel would
> maximize the potential of the cold air to be warmed while travelling up
> the stovepipe. I wouldn't want to really force the air through the system
> at all allowing nature to work her own magic.
>
> I came up with this because I have an old inefficent cast-iron stove
> sitting in my shop and when I use it during winter it tends to cause a
> noticable cold draft along any openings into the old shop. Also I was
> thinking of the best way to reclaim the heat that goes.. literally.. up in
> smoke.
>
> -Rip
>
>
>

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