Alternative Power sources - Conclusion: Honda eu2000i and home furnaces

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Conclusion: Honda eu2000i and home furnaces

Mr Wizzard

2006-01-16, 5:21 pm

== The final conclusiion to the on-going saga ==

> Did you try the toroid iron on the hot for a filter as
> somebody suggested they had success with?

Actually, I did some more experimenting tonight,
and I concluded that there is only 3 things that work:

1) Isolate the ground from the furnace, and let it float.

2) Tie neutral to ground at the generater recepitcal.

3) Tie neutral to ground at the generator recepticle
with a .1uf capicator. (ground to hot doesn't work)

Things I've tried:

- Ground the generator to: a) breaker box, b) to Earth.

- EMI/RFI filters galore: common mode, differential, both.
(store bought, home brew, and all imaginable combinations).

Observations:

At idle, and nothing pluged it, if I connect Neutral to
ground at the generator, I get ever so slight sparking
when I drag the neutral lead over the ground lead. It
is not enough to light a C7 night light bulb. So I then
connected neutral to ground (at the generator) thru a
larger Neon bulb, and it lights it at maybe 1/4 - 1/3
brightness.

The final fix:

Since the 2 "paralell operation" connectors are actually
standard bananna plug sockets, and these paralell
operation bananna sockets are connected directly
to the duplex recepticles, I made a 3-inch lead out
of rubber test-lead wire, connected one end to the
ground screw with a crimp-on terminal, and the other
end with a male bananna plug, and pluged it in the
left most bananna socket for "paralell operation".
I also labeled the 2 bananna jacks on the generator
as "N" (neutral) on the left, and "L" (hot) on the right.
Its clean, easy to do, looks good, temporary, and
any one can do it since it requires no soldering. You
can get the solderless bananna plus at Radio Shack:
http://www.radioshack.com/sm-solder...pi-2102839.html
Crimp terminal for the ground screw can be bought
from the local autoparts store. Use any kind of wire.

Summary:
Connect left-lost jack for parallel operation to
the ground screw on the front of the generator.
This bonds neutral to ground at the generator,
and is "code" in a lot of places.

Thomas D. Horne, FF EMT

2006-01-16, 6:21 pm

Mr Wizzard wrote:
> == The final conclusiion to the on-going saga ==
>
>
>
>
> Actually, I did some more experimenting tonight,
> and I concluded that there is only 3 things that work:
>
> 1) Isolate the ground from the furnace, and let it float.
>
> 2) Tie neutral to ground at the generater recepitcal.
>
> 3) Tie neutral to ground at the generator recepticle
> with a .1uf capicator. (ground to hot doesn't work)
>
> Things I've tried:
>
> - Ground the generator to: a) breaker box, b) to Earth.
>
> - EMI/RFI filters galore: common mode, differential, both.
> (store bought, home brew, and all imaginable combinations).
>
> Observations:
>
> At idle, and nothing pluged it, if I connect Neutral to
> ground at the generator, I get ever so slight sparking
> when I drag the neutral lead over the ground lead. It
> is not enough to light a C7 night light bulb. So I then
> connected neutral to ground (at the generator) thru a
> larger Neon bulb, and it lights it at maybe 1/4 - 1/3
> brightness.
>
> The final fix:
>
> Since the 2 "paralell operation" connectors are actually
> standard bananna plug sockets, and these paralell
> operation bananna sockets are connected directly
> to the duplex recepticles, I made a 3-inch lead out
> of rubber test-lead wire, connected one end to the
> ground screw with a crimp-on terminal, and the other
> end with a male bananna plug, and pluged it in the
> left most bananna socket for "paralell operation".
> I also labeled the 2 bananna jacks on the generator
> as "N" (neutral) on the left, and "L" (hot) on the right.
> Its clean, easy to do, looks good, temporary, and
> any one can do it since it requires no soldering. You
> can get the solderless bananna plus at Radio Shack:
> http://www.radioshack.com/sm-solder...pi-2102839.html
> Crimp terminal for the ground screw can be bought
> from the local autoparts store. Use any kind of wire.
>
> Summary:
> Connect left-lost jack for parallel operation to
> the ground screw on the front of the generator.
> This bonds neutral to ground at the generator,
> and is "code" in a lot of places.
>
>
Please advise what type of plug you are running the power from on the
generator and how you are connecting it to the furnace.
--
Tom Horne

--
Tom Horne

Well we aren't no thin blue heroes and yet we aren't no blackguards to.
We're just working men and woman most remarkable like you.

Mr Wizzard

2006-01-16, 7:21 pm

"Thomas D. Horne, FF EMT" <hornetd@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:8aUyf.275$rH5.152@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...
> Mr Wizzard wrote:
> Please advise what type of plug you are running the power from on the
> generator and how you are connecting it to the furnace.

Sure. My setup is simple as pie (I like simple)
First off, my natural gas home furnace was
originally hard-wired to a junction box in the
wall in the garage with "BX" - that corogated
metal jacketed cable. So I hacked it off right
there at the junction box, and chnaged out the
face-plate of the junction box to a be a single
standard 3-prong recepticle. (I wanted just a
single so that nothing else can be plugged into
it, and for astectics - wanted it to look good)
I believe I had to hunt down a J box cover
"with" the single 3-prong recepticle already
mounted to the cover - basically a iuntegrated
J-box cover with a single 3-prong recepticle)
And on the furnace side, simply put a 3-prong
plug on the end of the BX cable. I went with
a particular Bryant wire devices plug because
the BX cable wouldn't fit in any other kind of
plug, and most 3-prong plugs all have some
sort of screw-clamp deal to grip the cable,
and I didn't want to smash the end of the BX.
This particular Bryant plug and a real nice
rubber membrane deal on the back that auto
conforms to the cable for a seal/grip. This
is sort of like the plug I went with (although
the one I found at the local hardware store
was actually yellow, and corrosion resistant,
but it looks like the same) :
http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/bryan...=1002,4726,7306
If that link is too long, try this:
http://tinyurl.com/7g7sh
So in normal operation, the furnace
is simply pluged into the wall like an
ordinary househould appliance. When
I want to run it on the Honda eu2000i,
I simply unplug the furnace from the wall,
plug it into a standard 25-foot made in
China Home Depot 12-gague yellow
extension cord, run that cord out under
the garage door to either the driveway,
corner of the house, or the front porch
or where ever I decide to plop the
generator. (I worry about thieft, so I
try not to plop the generator down
in the middle of the generator if it
will run unattended for any time.

So in summary, hack off the hardwired
connection to the furnace and put a plug
on it and just plug it into a regular recepticle,
or convert junction box to a recipticle. Most
houses probably have their furnaces wired
with regular Romex wire, and you can put
a 3-prong plug directly on the Romex.
Mine was "BX" because of a recent remodel
and I put the furnace in myself and wanted
it to look "indistrial-like". The furnace draws
a tad over 6 Amps on startup (beacause of
the hot-surface ignightor), and a little over
2 Amps while its running afterwards - about
the same as a fridge. Then unplug it from the
wall, and into a 25-foot extension cord, and
the extension cord directly into either of the
2 rectipcles on the Honda eu2000i, and wella.
(don't forget to jumper that left-most bananna
plug socket to the ground screw on the front).

So I like this setup (a lot). I've been running my
furnace on the generator for most of the weekend
for a variety of reasons:
- To break in the generator.
- Get an idea of noise, and best location.
- Get an idea of gas consumption.
- Experiment, the novelity of it all, etc.

Overall rating: 9.5
(would be 10 if Honda would have
designed an "automatic" venting gas
cap) If you forget to flip the little lever
on the gas cap to "on" (vent "on" ?)
the generator will die after 15-20 min.
(happens almost every time with me)

> --
> Tom Horne
>
> --
> Tom Horne
>
> Well we aren't no thin blue heroes and yet we aren't no blackguards to.
> We're just working men and woman most remarkable like you.

William P.N. Smith

2006-01-17, 12:21 am

"Mr Wizzard" <wiz@muffy-mail.com> wrote:
>Connect left-lost jack for parallel operation to
>the ground screw on the front of the generator.
>This bonds neutral to ground at the generator,
>and is "code" in a lot of places.

What about a 3-prong plug with neutral and ground tied together
plugged into the unused generator outlet? Then you don't need tools
to select furnace operation...

Mr Wizzard

2006-01-17, 2:21 am

"William P.N. Smith" <news2006a@compusmiths.com> wrote in message
news:ahpos1pobq698kokmahrbpv7bnfcvs1lg8@4ax.com...
> "Mr Wizzard" <wiz@muffy-mail.com> wrote:
>
> What about a 3-prong plug with neutral and ground tied together
> plugged into the unused generator outlet? Then you don't need tools
> to select furnace operation...

You know....I thought of just that too! Even thought
of something like that teathered to the unit too. But,
you need to see how I got, and how clean (and easy)
it was. 3-inch piece of Belden rubber test lead wire
with a spade lug on one end (with the yellow plastic
part removed, crimpted, soldered, and piece of shrink
tube) and a nice bananna plug on the other (pluged
into the left-most bananna jack for paralell operation).
This way, its out of the way, and I can use the other
recepticle. Also, I can either leave the grounded
bananna pig tail plugged into the neutral jack all
the time, or pull it out if I want, no tools needed.
I should probably publish a we page with this info
since I'm sure there are lots of people wanting to
power a home furnace with one of these Honda
eu2000i generators (since they are becoming so
pupular). But yeah, for the average, non Mr
neatnic wiring engineer type, a simple dummy
plug like you mention would do the trick. The
only other issue would be remembering to plug
in the dummy plug when breaking out the generator
to fire up the furnace. Thanks for the replay,
this had been a very interesting, and fun problem.

Thomas Horne

2006-01-17, 6:21 pm

>> Please advise what type of plug you are running the power from on the
>
>
>
> Sure. My setup is simple as pie (I like simple)
> First off, my natural gas home furnace was
> originally hard-wired to a junction box in the
> wall in the garage with "BX" - that corrugated
> metal jacketed cable. So I hacked it off right
> there at the junction box, and changed out the
> face-plate of the junction box to a be a single
> standard 3-prong receptacle. (I wanted just a
> single so that nothing else can be plugged into
> it, and for aesthetics's - wanted it to look good)
> I believe I had to hunt down a J box cover
> "with" the single 3-prong receptacle already
> mounted to the cover - basically a integrated
> J-box cover with a single 3-prong receptacle)
> And on the furnace side, simply put a 3-prong
> plug on the end of the BX cable. I went with
> a particular Bryant wire devices plug because
> the BX cable wouldn't fit in any other kind of
> plug, and most 3-prong plugs all have some
> sort of screw-clamp deal to grip the cable,
> and I didn't want to smash the end of the BX.
> This particular Bryant plug and a real nice
> rubber membrane deal on the back that auto
> conforms to the cable for a seal/grip. This
> is sort of like the plug I went with (although
> the one I found at the local hardware store
> was actually yellow, and corrosion resistant,
> but it looks like the same) :
> http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/bryan...=1002,4726,7306
> If that link is too long, try this:
> http://tinyurl.com/7g7sh
> So in normal operation, the furnace
> is simply plugged into the wall like an
> ordinary household appliance. When
> I want to run it on the Honda eu2000i,
> I simply unplug the furnace from the wall,
> plug it into a standard 25-foot made in
> China Home Depot 12-gage yellow
> extension cord, run that cord out under
> the garage door to either the driveway,
> corner of the house, or the front porch
> or where ever I decide to plop the
> generator. (I worry about theft, so I
> try not to plop the generator down
> in the middle of the generator if it
> will run unattended for any time.
>
> So in summary, hack off the hardwired
> connection to the furnace and put a plug
> on it and just plug it into a regular receptacle,
> or convert junction box to a receptacle. Most
> houses probably have their furnaces wired
> with regular Romex wire, and you can put
> a 3-prong plug directly on the Romex.
> Mine was "BX" because of a recent remodel
> and I put the furnace in myself and wanted
> it to look "industrial-like". The furnace draws
> a tad over 6 Amps on startup (because of
> the hot-surface igniter), and a little over
> 2 Amps while its running afterwards - about
> the same as a fridge. Then unplug it from the
> wall, and into a 25-foot extension cord, and
> the extension cord directly into either of the
> 2 receptacles on the Honda eu2000i, and wallah.
> (don't forget to jumper that left-most banana
> plug socket to the ground screw on the front).
>
> So I like this setup (a lot). I've been running my
> furnace on the generator for most of the weekend
> for a variety of reasons:
> - To break in the generator.
> - Get an idea of noise, and best location.
> - Get an idea of gas consumption.
> - Experiment, the novelty of it all, etc.
>
> Overall rating: 9.5
> (would be 10 if Honda would have
> designed an "automatic" venting gas
> cap) If you forget to flip the little lever
> on the gas cap to "on" (vent "on" ?)
> the generator will die after 15-20 min.
> (happens almost every time with me)

Let me suggest that you Install a single pole, double through, center
off, switch in the raised cover to replace the original single pole
switch. You then mount a box with a flanged inlet for the cord from the
generator. Wire the switch so that the up position connects the homes
furnace branch circuit to the furnace equipment; the center off position
connects the furnace to nothing; and the down position connects the
furnace equipment to the brass colored screw of the flanged inlet. The
silver colored screw is connected to the splice between the branch
circuit neutral and the furnace equipment neutral. The green colored
screw is connected to the box via a pig tail to a grounding screw. In
that way the furnace would be connected to the neutral and ground of the
house wiring at all times. The generators wiring would also be
connected to the neutral and ground of the house wiring whenever it was
plugged into the flanged inlet. The needed bonding of the neutral to
the ground would be provided by the main bonding jumper that is part of
your service equipment. You will not need to do anything to your
generator other than to plug it in. In addition you will eliminate the
use of a cord cap that is not listed for that use from the armored cable
to your furnace controls.

--
Tom Horne

William P.N. Smith

2006-01-17, 7:21 pm

"Mr Wizzard" <wiz@muffy-mail.com> wrote:
>"William P.N. Smith" <news2006a@compusmiths.com> wrote;

[color=darkred]
>3-inch piece of Belden rubber test lead wire
>with a spade lug on one end (with the yellow plastic
>part removed, crimpted, soldered, and piece of shrink
>tube) and a nice bananna plug on the other (pluged
>into the left-most bananna jack for paralell operation).

Ah, I had slightly misunderstood how you had the thing wired, that's
pretty good too. The only problem I have with it is if the wire's
long enough to reach to the wrong banana jack, and what happens when
someone hooks it up wrong. The prewired plug cna't get hooked up
wrong, (and yeah, probably should be tethered) but again, that's a
nit.

Derek Broughton

2006-01-18, 9:21 am

Mr Wizzard wrote:
>
> Overall rating: 9.5
> (would be 10 if Honda would have
> designed an "automatic" venting gas
> cap) If you forget to flip the little lever
> on the gas cap to "on" (vent "on" ?)
> the generator will die after 15-20 min.
> (happens almost every time with me)

LOL. In my case, I find even switching the vent doesn't work. Once set to
"on", I need to crack the cap open about 1/8th turn (any more and vibration
will work the cap right off).

What do you mean by "automatic", though? Most gas caps are "automatic" -
meaning they're just permanently vented. Having a positive seal should
help the gas to stay stable for lengthy periods of disuse. Perhaps there
should be an always-vented cap option for those of us who do use the
generator regularly.
--
derek

Daniel Armstrong

2006-01-18, 7:21 pm

"Mr Wizzard" <wiz@muffy-mail.com> wrote in message
news:bqGdnVT6t9BGn1HeRVn-tg@comcast.com...
> == The final conclusiion to the on-going saga ==
>
>
> Actually, I did some more experimenting tonight,
> and I concluded that there is only 3 things that work:
>
> 1) Isolate the ground from the furnace, and let it float.
>
> 2) Tie neutral to ground at the generater recepitcal.
>
> 3) Tie neutral to ground at the generator recepticle
> with a .1uf capicator. (ground to hot doesn't work)
>
> Things I've tried:
>
> - Ground the generator to: a) breaker box, b) to Earth.
>
> - EMI/RFI filters galore: common mode, differential, both.
> (store bought, home brew, and all imaginable combinations).
>
> Observations:
>
> At idle, and nothing pluged it, if I connect Neutral to
> ground at the generator, I get ever so slight sparking
> when I drag the neutral lead over the ground lead. It
> is not enough to light a C7 night light bulb. So I then
> connected neutral to ground (at the generator) thru a
> larger Neon bulb, and it lights it at maybe 1/4 - 1/3
> brightness.
>
> The final fix:
>
> Since the 2 "paralell operation" connectors are actually
> standard bananna plug sockets, and these paralell
> operation bananna sockets are connected directly
> to the duplex recepticles, I made a 3-inch lead out
> of rubber test-lead wire, connected one end to the
> ground screw with a crimp-on terminal, and the other
> end with a male bananna plug, and pluged it in the
> left most bananna socket for "paralell operation".
> I also labeled the 2 bananna jacks on the generator
> as "N" (neutral) on the left, and "L" (hot) on the right.
> Its clean, easy to do, looks good, temporary, and
> any one can do it since it requires no soldering. You
> can get the solderless bananna plus at Radio Shack:
> http://www.radioshack.com/sm-solder...pi-2102839.html
> Crimp terminal for the ground screw can be bought
> from the local autoparts store. Use any kind of wire.
>
> Summary:
> Connect left-lost jack for parallel operation to
> the ground screw on the front of the generator.
> This bonds neutral to ground at the generator,
> and is "code" in a lot of places.
>
>
Nice to see the bonding to neutral worked for you. As I sit here looking at
the controller board out of a goodman GMP series furnace I note that there
is a ceramic disc capacitor connecting the hot terminal on the board with
the flame sense terminal. It goes hot-capacitor-10 megohm resistor-sense
circuit-1 megohm resistor-flame sense terminal. This is how it senses the
flame and why neutral must be bonded to ground.

Mr Wizzard

2006-01-19, 1:21 am

"Thomas Horne" <hornetd@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:icdzf.1773$vU2.358@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/bryan...=1002,4726,7306[color=darkred]
>
> Let me suggest that you Install a single pole, double through, center
> off, switch in the raised cover to replace the original single pole
> switch. You then mount a box with a flanged inlet for the cord from the
> generator. Wire the switch so that the up position connects the homes
> furnace branch circuit to the furnace equipment; the center off position
> connects the furnace to nothing; and the down position connects the
> furnace equipment to the brass colored screw of the flanged inlet. The
> silver colored screw is connected to the splice between the branch
> circuit neutral and the furnace equipment neutral. The green colored
> screw is connected to the box via a pig tail to a grounding screw. In
> that way the furnace would be connected to the neutral and ground of the
> house wiring at all times. The generators wiring would also be
> connected to the neutral and ground of the house wiring whenever it was
> plugged into the flanged inlet. The needed bonding of the neutral to
> the ground would be provided by the main bonding jumper that is part of
> your service equipment. You will not need to do anything to your
> generator other than to plug it in. In addition you will eliminate the
> use of a cord cap that is not listed for that use from the armored cable
> to your furnace controls.

Yeah, that would do it (and in the works). However, and from another
branch of the original thread, Imna "just" do the flanged plug and skip
the switch. Back contacts of the relay would tie furnace to house
wiring, and power on the flanged inlet pulls the relay in to connect
the generator to the furnace, and removes the furnace from the house
mains. And yeah, I can tie the neutral and ground to the neutral and
ground of the house wiring (at the furnace) and effectively just have
the relay switch the hot - that would work. Good idea actually, thatnks.

>
> --
> Tom Horne

Mr Wizzard

2006-01-19, 1:21 am

"Derek Broughton" <news@pointerstop.ca> wrote in message
news:vjc0a3-28m.ln1@news.pointerstop.ca...
> Mr Wizzard wrote:
>
> LOL. In my case, I find even switching the vent doesn't work. Once set
to
> "on", I need to crack the cap open about 1/8th turn (any more and
vibration
> will work the cap right off).
>
> What do you mean by "automatic", though? Most gas caps are "automatic" -
> meaning they're just permanently vented. Having a positive seal should
> help the gas to stay stable for lengthy periods of disuse. Perhaps there
> should be an always-vented cap option for those of us who do use the
> generator regularly.

Yeah, shit... Damn gas nowa days.... (really P.O'd here)
I got a LOT of gas powered stuff here - bunch of outboards,
weedwackers, chipper/shreader, vac, tiller, mowers, saws, etc
and no matter HOW air tight I keep the caps, they ALL
have this problem when the gas in the bowl turns that dark
brown, varnish smellin crap in just a few weeks, well, many
a couple 2-3 months. I hate it. Did a bunch of research and
find that this new additive that they added this last summer
(which is what caused that big gas price hike pre-Katrina)
happens to cause this condition (of this happening so fast).
Used to be that you could leave the fuel in there for up to
a year or more before that started happening, Uh-ha, not
no more! - beware !. Now I gotta do Stabil in EVERYthing
"all" the time. Oh well, hit a sore spot (with that gas additive)

Point on the Honda generator cap, yeah, I would have
liked a "always vented" cap, but oh well. If you gotta
crack the cap, I'd look into that, something aint right.

Hey, so tell me... Your's is a eu2000is, right? How long
you had it, and how many hours you go on it? Reason I
ask is, mine is brand new, right? Well, I got "maybe" one
hour on it (still on its first tank of gas that came in it), and
when I start it each time (cold), I get a puff (or two) of
oil smoke out if it - like an older car with leaky valve seals.
So I'm wondering if yours does that. I'm trying to break
mine in by running it on varying loads. Ran the furnace on
it most of the weekend, and its STILL on the original
tank of gas. When furnace not ruuning, I plug a heater
into it, and alternate the 700w/1500w switch every 10
minutes or so (for a proper break in). After first tank,
I will change the oil - I always to that on new equipment.
Just wondered about that puff of oil smoke on startup.

> --
> derek

Mr Wizzard

2006-01-19, 1:21 am

"William P.N. Smith" <news2006a@compusmiths.com> wrote in message
news:knsqs1pq72lbfro9hoscnl3p25f565ai8n@4ax.com...
> "Mr Wizzard" <wiz@muffy-mail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Ah, I had slightly misunderstood how you had the thing wired, that's
> pretty good too. The only problem I have with it is if the wire's
> long enough to reach to the wrong banana jack, and what happens when
> someone hooks it up wrong. The prewired plug cna't get hooked up
> wrong, (and yeah, probably should be tethered) but again, that's a
> nit.

Hehe, you and I think a lot alike. The wire is short, yeah,
but can make it to the Hot bananna jack. So, I made a
label tag for the wire warning to plug it ONLY into "N".
Looks professional, but by no means fool-proof. What
I'm looking for is the reverse of one of them little plastic
caps that they put on the end of the bananna plug on a
set of new Fluke meter leads (if you've ever seen these).
Like a plastic "plug" that I can stick in the Hot bananna
plug socket on the generator. So I dunno, I may have
to re-think this. And what is a "nit" by the way?

Mr Wizzard

2006-01-19, 2:21 am

"Daniel Armstrong" <danielthechskid@mchsi.com> wrote in message
news:GAzzf.709136$x96.617339@attbi_s72...
>
> "Mr Wizzard" <wiz@muffy-mail.com> wrote in message
> news:bqGdnVT6t9BGn1HeRVn-tg@comcast.com...
> Nice to see the bonding to neutral worked for you. As I sit here looking
at
> the controller board out of a goodman GMP series furnace I note that there
> is a ceramic disc capacitor connecting the hot terminal on the board with
> the flame sense terminal. It goes hot-capacitor-10 megohm resistor-sense
> circuit-1 megohm resistor-flame sense terminal. This is how it senses the
> flame and why neutral must be bonded to ground.

Well, lets think about this..... Remember, the thing works
fine if I leave ground "floating", and only acts up when
connected to generator frame ground (without being bonded
to neutral). Wonder why yours is "hot->cap->resistor->sense...
Hum. I'm tempted to open mine up, just so I know how it works.
(I'm like that - I have the need to have 100% full understanding)
Thanks for that info - thats the kinda stuff I was looking for.

>
>

Derek Broughton

2006-01-19, 10:21 am

Mr Wizzard wrote:

> Yeah, shit... _Damn gas nowa days.... (really P.O'd here)
....
> Oh well, hit a sore spot (with that gas additive)

Oops. I guess I did :-)
>
> Point on the Honda generator cap, yeah, I would have
> liked a "always vented" cap, but oh well. _If you gotta
> crack the cap, I'd look into that, something aint right.

True, but not enough of a problem to bother me.

> Hey, so tell me... _Your's is a eu2000is, right? _How long
> you had it, and how many hours you go on it?

I've had it for 18 months, and have about 60 hours on it.

> Reason I
> ask is, mine is brand new, right? _Well, I got "maybe" one
> hour on it (still on its first tank of gas that came in it), and
> when I start it each time (cold), I get a puff (or two) of
> oil smoke out if it - like an older car with leaky valve seals.

No such problem for me.
--
derek

William P.N. Smith

2006-01-19, 10:21 am

"Mr Wizzard" <wiz@muffy-mail.com> wrote:
>"William P.N. Smith" <news2006a@compusmiths.com> wrote:
[color=darkred]
>Like a plastic "plug" that I can stick in the Hot bananna
>plug socket on the generator.

Well, there's always the Banana plug without a wire attached, or (if
you want a leash) a banana plug screwed onto a small piece of nylon
line, or grab some calibers and get a short piece of plastic rod the
right size, or (if you are not using the "Hot" banana plug for
anything(, a hot-melt glue gun (the white hot-melt glue is removable,
though it may be a bit of work) I'd probably put a red banana jack in
the hole and then tack it down from the outside with hot-melt glue...

>And what is a "nit" by the way?

Literally the egg of a head lice, a little teeny tiny white speck.
Curing head lice in the Good Old Days (before special medicated
shampoos, etc) used to involve "picking nits", getting every single
last little tiny spec out of your child's hair.

"Does Anal-Retentive have a hyphen?" 8*)

Narrff

2006-01-20, 3:21 am

Don't know about the hyphen, but I've sadly had some recent experience
with nits.

My daughter recently got head lice from some Katrina-displaced
relatives. The old-fashioned way is the only way to rid yourself of
these pests. Good lighting, good vision, and a decent pair of hemostats
(temporarily decommissioned from roach-clip status, of course) works
wonders. Keep in mind, although the newer treatments will kill the
eggs, the nits remain. There is no good solvent to release them from
the hair shaft at this point, so manual removal is the only option.
Also, many schools have a 'no nit' policy, so, even if the eggs are
technically dead, your child can't go back to school until they are
gone, regardless of whether they are dead or not.

I know it's off-topic, but maybe someone can benefit from this?

May your hair be nitless, and your scalp be hairful (?)

J.

Mr Wizzard

2006-01-22, 1:21 am

"Derek Broughton" <news@pointerstop.ca> wrote in message
news:5cg4a3-s0j.ln1@news.pointerstop.ca...
> Mr Wizzard wrote:
>
> ...
>
> Oops. I guess I did :-)
>
> True, but not enough of a problem to bother me.
>
>
> I've had it for 18 months, and have about 60 hours on it.
>
>
> No such problem for me.
> --
> derek

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