| Author |
Going off grid - need hot shower
|
|
| Piccolo Pete 2006-12-02, 5:25 pm |
| Zodi or Coleman? These seem to be the most reasonable, but I'd like some
recommendations. Zodi claims 60 gallons on a one pound tank of propane.
Coleman says 40 gallons. Zodi says it is continuous and, if attatched to a
garden hose (I have regular running water with reasonable pressure), I don't
need to use the electric pump. Coleman doesn't say this, but I'm suspecting
it may be the same. Coleman looks more convenient but it sound like Zodi
might produce more hot water than Coleman and at a higher temperature. I've
never measured the temperatures of my choice for shower water... is 100
degrees hot enough?
Looking forward to your comments :-)
| |
| Neon John 2006-12-02, 8:25 pm |
|
Paloma.
On Sat, 2 Dec 2006 13:03:09 -0500, "Piccolo Pete" <sorry@nope.net>
wrote:
>Zodi or Coleman? These seem to be the most reasonable, but I'd like some
>recommendations. Zodi claims 60 gallons on a one pound tank of propane.
>Coleman says 40 gallons. Zodi says it is continuous and, if attatched to a
>garden hose (I have regular running water with reasonable pressure), I don't
>need to use the electric pump. Coleman doesn't say this, but I'm suspecting
>it may be the same. Coleman looks more convenient but it sound like Zodi
>might produce more hot water than Coleman and at a higher temperature. I've
>never measured the temperatures of my choice for shower water... is 100
>degrees hot enough?
>
>Looking forward to your comments :-)
>
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
Don't let your schooling interfere with your education-Mark Twain
| |
| Chuck James 2006-12-02, 8:25 pm |
|
"Piccolo Pete" <sorry@nope.net> wrote in message
news:xQkch.15876$SV4.13973@bignews3.bellsouth.net...
> Zodi or Coleman? These seem to be the most reasonable, but I'd like some
> recommendations. Zodi claims 60 gallons on a one pound tank of propane.
> Coleman says 40 gallons. Zodi says it is continuous and, if attatched to
> a
> garden hose (I have regular running water with reasonable pressure), I
> don't
> need to use the electric pump. Coleman doesn't say this, but I'm
> suspecting
> it may be the same. Coleman looks more convenient but it sound like Zodi
> might produce more hot water than Coleman and at a higher temperature.
> I've
> never measured the temperatures of my choice for shower water... is 100
> degrees hot enough?
>
> Looking forward to your comments :-)
>
>
I haven't measured my shower temperature either, but my Hot Tub (at home)
only goes to 104. We usually set it at about 98 to 100 (or less if the air
temperature is hot), so we can stay in it for a while. At 102 and above it
starts to be uncomfortably hot in just a few minutes.
| |
| *MYSTIC* 2006-12-02, 9:25 pm |
| Chuck James wrote:
> "Piccolo Pete" <sorry@nope.net> wrote in message
> news:xQkch.15876$SV4.13973@bignews3.bellsouth.net...
>
>
> I haven't measured my shower temperature either, but my Hot Tub (at home)
> only goes to 104. We usually set it at about 98 to 100 (or less if the air
> temperature is hot), so we can stay in it for a while. At 102 and above it
> starts to be uncomfortably hot in just a few minutes.
>
>
You might take a look at Bosch tankless water heaters. They are an "on
demand" type. Only using fuel when actually needed.
Other companies make simular type heaters like "aquastar". There are
also waterheaters that use kerosene/deisel (maybe bio deisel) that you
might consider.
| |
| Loren Amelang 2006-12-03, 3:25 am |
| On Sun, 03 Dec 2006 02:18:26 GMT, "Chuck James"
<c456james@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>"Piccolo Pete" <sorry@nope.net> wrote in message
>news:xQkch.15876$SV4.13973@bignews3.bellsouth.net...
>I haven't measured my shower temperature either, but my Hot Tub (at home)
>only goes to 104. We usually set it at about 98 to 100 (or less if the air
>temperature is hot), so we can stay in it for a while. At 102 and above it
>starts to be uncomfortably hot in just a few minutes.
A very subjective question. Personally, I don't think 98 to 100 F
qualifies as a hot tub, even indoors. I'd call that a sensory
isolation tank (which can be pleasant). A hot tub starts at 104,
averages 107, and if it is outdoors in winter, is just about perfect
at 114.
For the shower, the question is indoors and heated, outdoors and wind
shielded, or outdoors and exposed? And how far is it from the shower
head to your skin? Even in a heated, wind free area, if the nozzle is
a couple feet away from me, the water feels cool if the supply
temperature is below about 115. Outdoors in cold air you lose a lot
more heat from the water droplets to the air, and if the air is moving
you need much hotter water to make up for the rapid evaporation from
your skin.
But I really dislike being in cold water... YMMV
Loren
| |
|
| In article <xQkch.15876$SV4.13973@bignews3.bellsouth.net>,
Piccolo Pete <sorry@nope.net> wrote:
>Zodi or Coleman?
I've never been very happy with Coleman. They seem to be more
into exploiting their brand than actually making good stuff.
http://images.spinics.net/am/B000B6IFTQ
| |
|
| In article <evg4n2t6cg68jkhh45isk4ikh1gafmr0ej@4ax.com>,
Loren Amelang <loren@pacific.net> wrote:
>A very subjective question. Personally, I don't think 98 to 100 F
>qualifies as a hot tub, even indoors. I'd call that a sensory
>isolation tank (which can be pleasant). A hot tub starts at 104,
>averages 107, and if it is outdoors in winter, is just about perfect
>at 114.
There's a pool at Deep Creek Hot Springs (http://deepcreekhotsprings.net) that
runs about 103 to 105. It's nice when the weather is cool but if I stay
in it too long it will over heat me.
Another pool is about 98-101 and is much better for long term soaking.
| |
|
| My approach to a hot shower is unconventional but effective.
I have a 3hp diesel (burning WVO) driving a car alternator for charging
10 batteries driving a 2KW inverter for my 120VAC supply.
This diesel uses a hopper for cooling. I out boarded the hopper with
the bottom 18" of a scrap hot water heater. The standard hopper was
evaporating away too quickly and required constant surveillance. The
water heater is open at the top.
I fill a standard plastic bleach bottle (3qts) with rain water and
place it in the water heater/cooling hopper. While the diesel is
running and charging, it's also maintaining my hot water.
To take a shower, I pour the contents of the bleach bottle into a
"solar shower". It's just a plastic bag designed to be heated by
sun radiation and used for showering when back packing. I have this on
a little pulley and rope in a crude shower stall I built. Once filled,
I pull it up so it's above my head and I use it like a regular camp
shower.
The water temperature is naturally right for a comfortable shower. If
too hot I just add a little more cold water. To get by with just 3qts
of water I take an RV shower. This is three steps: 1) Wet down. 2)
Lather up. 3) Rinse off.
The drain from my shower just runs into a 5 gal plastic bucket which I
occasionally pour out in the woods.
Todd Marshall
Plantersville, TX
| |
| Chuck James 2006-12-03, 1:25 pm |
|
"Loren Amelang" <loren@pacific.net> wrote in message
news:evg4n2t6cg68jkhh45isk4ikh1gafmr0ej@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 03 Dec 2006 02:18:26 GMT, "Chuck James"
> <c456james@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> A very subjective question. Personally, I don't think 98 to 100 F
> qualifies as a hot tub, even indoors. I'd call that a sensory
> isolation tank (which can be pleasant). A hot tub starts at 104,
> averages 107, and if it is outdoors in winter, is just about perfect
> at 114.
>
> For the shower, the question is indoors and heated, outdoors and wind
> shielded, or outdoors and exposed? And how far is it from the shower
> head to your skin? Even in a heated, wind free area, if the nozzle is
> a couple feet away from me, the water feels cool if the supply
> temperature is below about 115. Outdoors in cold air you lose a lot
> more heat from the water droplets to the air, and if the air is moving
> you need much hotter water to make up for the rapid evaporation from
> your skin.
>
> But I really dislike being in cold water... YMMV
>
> Loren
Ouch! 114!!! I don't know if I could even stick my feet in that tub!
You're absolutely right, that temperature is personal and subjective though.
It's just that 114 sounds "par boiled" to me!
| |
| news.mw.net 2006-12-03, 5:25 pm |
| > Zodi or Coleman? These seem to be the most reasonable, but I'd like some
> recommendations. Zodi claims 60 gallons on a one pound tank of propane.
> Coleman says 40 gallons. Zodi says it is continuous and, if attatched to a
> garden hose (I have regular running water with reasonable pressure), I don't
> need to use the electric pump. Coleman doesn't say this, but I'm suspecting
> it may be the same. Coleman looks more convenient but it sound like Zodi
> might produce more hot water than Coleman and at a higher temperature. I've
> never measured the temperatures of my choice for shower water... is 100
> degrees hot enough?
>
> Looking forward to your comments :-)
I've read a couple of replies and it seems that the hottub crowd is
comparing apples and oranges... or strawberry daqueries?
I'd think that you would want to shower before and after being in a
hottub or hot-spring ! Especially a public one...
You climb into either one to have a good soak. You climb into a
shower to get clean. I shower for about 10 to 12 minutes maximum?
The reply about it being indoors or outdoors and the distance to the
showerhead was good.
I seem to recall that the Navy protocol was to turn on the water and
get wet, then soap up without water, then turn the water on again to
rinse the soap off ??
I don't mind lukewarm showers, I'm just there to clean-up.
| |
| Vaughn Simon 2006-12-03, 5:25 pm |
|
"news.mw.net" <ShuttleSPAMcoch@hotGUARDmail.com> wrote in message
news:mn.1b837d6ccc385a96.64067@hotGUARDmail.com...
>
> I seem to recall that the Navy protocol was to turn on the water and get wet,
> then soap up without water, then turn the water on again to
> rinse the soap off ??
Yep, that is called a "Navy shower". The type of shower that the rest of
us take is known in the Navy as a Hollywood shower".
Vaughn
| |
|
| In Boy Scouts we used to paint a fire bucket black and put it in a pine
tree. When it gets hot, pull on it with a rope and it tilts over into a
can with holes in the bottom. Note... this works best during the day.
| |
| Loren Amelang 2006-12-04, 5:25 pm |
| On Sun, 03 Dec 2006 16:02:08 GMT, "Chuck James"
<c456james@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>Ouch! 114!!! I don't know if I could even stick my feet in that tub!
>You're absolutely right, that temperature is personal and subjective though.
>It's just that 114 sounds "par boiled" to me!
If I start with "stick my feet in", I'll never get the rest of my body
in. The entry procedure is to verify the temperature isn't even hotter
than your lmit, then plunge in in one single movement, and _keep
breathing_. Once I am all the way in, the sensation of "too hot"
disappears, and with a little mental manipulation I can even interpret
the sensation as coolness. But I must say I was amazed to see an
elderly gentleman do the same trick in the 130F pool at a hot spring
once.
If you think about it, in some parts of the world 115F is a common
temperature for the air and everything else you would touch. Water
gets to you more suddenly and thoroughly when you jump in, but once
that initial shock is over, if you aren't moving around and increasing
the heat transfer it is no worse than being in hot air. And in the tub
you have cool air to breathe.
Loren
| |
| Solar Flare 2006-12-04, 8:25 pm |
| You have boiled your brain too many times. Those temperatures are not
possible without dermal damage.
"Loren Amelang" <loren@pacific.net> wrote in message
news:6os8n25uuk43k2p3g9uqj92hlvf4va2dl1@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 03 Dec 2006 16:02:08 GMT, "Chuck James"
> <c456james@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>
> If I start with "stick my feet in", I'll never get the rest of my
> body
> in. The entry procedure is to verify the temperature isn't even
> hotter
> than your lmit, then plunge in in one single movement, and _keep
> breathing_. Once I am all the way in, the sensation of "too hot"
> disappears, and with a little mental manipulation I can even
> interpret
> the sensation as coolness. But I must say I was amazed to see an
> elderly gentleman do the same trick in the 130F pool at a hot spring
> once.
>
> If you think about it, in some parts of the world 115F is a common
> temperature for the air and everything else you would touch. Water
> gets to you more suddenly and thoroughly when you jump in, but once
> that initial shock is over, if you aren't moving around and
> increasing
> the heat transfer it is no worse than being in hot air. And in the
> tub
> you have cool air to breathe.
>
> Loren
| |
| Chuck James 2006-12-04, 9:25 pm |
|
"Loren Amelang" <loren@pacific.net> wrote in message
news:6os8n25uuk43k2p3g9uqj92hlvf4va2dl1@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 03 Dec 2006 16:02:08 GMT, "Chuck James"
> <c456james@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>
> If I start with "stick my feet in", I'll never get the rest of my body
> in. The entry procedure is to verify the temperature isn't even hotter
> than your lmit, then plunge in in one single movement, and _keep
> breathing_. Once I am all the way in, the sensation of "too hot"
> disappears, and with a little mental manipulation I can even interpret
> the sensation as coolness. But I must say I was amazed to see an
> elderly gentleman do the same trick in the 130F pool at a hot spring
> once.
>
> If you think about it, in some parts of the world 115F is a common
> temperature for the air and everything else you would touch. Water
> gets to you more suddenly and thoroughly when you jump in, but once
> that initial shock is over, if you aren't moving around and increasing
> the heat transfer it is no worse than being in hot air. And in the tub
> you have cool air to breathe.
>
> Loren
Yeah but the temperature exchange difference between air and water is very
significant. 70 degrees in air feels cool and comfortable. 70 degrees in
water is cold! As a scuba diver, I like water about 78-85 degrees. Below
70 I want a full wetsuit.
| |
| Piccolo Pete 2006-12-05, 5:25 pm |
|
"Chuck James" <c456james@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:Stqch.6889$wc5.685@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net...
>
> "Piccolo Pete" <sorry@nope.net> wrote in message
> news:xQkch.15876$SV4.13973@bignews3.bellsouth.net...
some[color=darkred]
to[color=darkred]
Zodi[color=darkred]
> I haven't measured my shower temperature either, but my Hot Tub (at home)
> only goes to 104. We usually set it at about 98 to 100 (or less if the
air
> temperature is hot), so we can stay in it for a while. At 102 and above
it
> starts to be uncomfortably hot in just a few minutes.
I should have thought about that. I had a spa and the max recommended temp
was 105 and I remember that was quite hot enough. But that is full body
immersion as opposed to a shower - which can be quickly cooled down (I would
think) by pipe distance and simply blowing through the air. Perhaps I
should do a little more of my own work.
| |
| Piccolo Pete 2006-12-05, 5:25 pm |
|
"*MYSTIC*" <mystic@thecave.net> wrote in message
news:45724160$0$5794$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com...
> Chuck James wrote:
some[color=darkred]
to[color=darkred]
Zodi[color=darkred]
home)[color=darkred]
air[color=darkred]
it[color=darkred]
> You might take a look at Bosch tankless water heaters. They are an "on
> demand" type. Only using fuel when actually needed.
>
> Other companies make simular type heaters like "aquastar". There are
> also waterheaters that use kerosene/deisel (maybe bio deisel) that you
> might consider.
Got a name for a kerosene brand?
| |
| Piccolo Pete 2006-12-05, 5:25 pm |
|
"Loren Amelang" <loren@pacific.net> wrote in message
news:6os8n25uuk43k2p3g9uqj92hlvf4va2dl1@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 03 Dec 2006 16:02:08 GMT, "Chuck James"
> <c456james@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
though.[color=darkred]
>
> If I start with "stick my feet in", I'll never get the rest of my body
> in. The entry procedure is to verify the temperature isn't even hotter
> than your lmit, then plunge in in one single movement, and _keep
> breathing_. Once I am all the way in, the sensation of "too hot"
> disappears, and with a little mental manipulation I can even interpret
> the sensation as coolness. But I must say I was amazed to see an
> elderly gentleman do the same trick in the 130F pool at a hot spring
> once.
>
> If you think about it, in some parts of the world 115F is a common
> temperature for the air and everything else you would touch. Water
> gets to you more suddenly and thoroughly when you jump in, but once
> that initial shock is over, if you aren't moving around and increasing
> the heat transfer it is no worse than being in hot air. And in the tub
> you have cool air to breathe.
>
> Loren
You've made some good points, Loren. I'm thinking a 100 degree shower may
be way too cool for my taste. I've taken showers with some other "intimate
friends" and they don't seem to like how hot I keep the shower - so we
stopped taking showers together :-(
| |
| *MYSTIC* 2006-12-05, 5:25 pm |
| >>>
>
>
> Got a name for a kerosene brand?
>
>
Toyotomi
I have a kerosene furnace built by them and it is quiet and has about a
91% efficency rating.
You can also find kerosene powered refridgerators too. Though I don't
know any brand names for them.
-MYSTIC
| |
| Piccolo Pete 2006-12-05, 5:25 pm |
|
"Todd" <Todd@WithGLEE.com> wrote in message
news:1165158587.626469.184630@n67g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...
> My approach to a hot shower is unconventional but effective.
>
> I have a 3hp diesel (burning WVO) driving a car alternator for charging
> 10 batteries driving a 2KW inverter for my 120VAC supply.
>
> This diesel uses a hopper for cooling. I out boarded the hopper with
> the bottom 18" of a scrap hot water heater. The standard hopper was
> evaporating away too quickly and required constant surveillance. The
> water heater is open at the top.
>
> I fill a standard plastic bleach bottle (3qts) with rain water and
> place it in the water heater/cooling hopper. While the diesel is
> running and charging, it's also maintaining my hot water.
>
> To take a shower, I pour the contents of the bleach bottle into a
> "solar shower". It's just a plastic bag designed to be heated by
> sun radiation and used for showering when back packing. I have this on
> a little pulley and rope in a crude shower stall I built. Once filled,
> I pull it up so it's above my head and I use it like a regular camp
> shower.
>
> The water temperature is naturally right for a comfortable shower. If
> too hot I just add a little more cold water. To get by with just 3qts
> of water I take an RV shower. This is three steps: 1) Wet down. 2)
> Lather up. 3) Rinse off.
>
> The drain from my shower just runs into a 5 gal plastic bucket which I
> occasionally pour out in the woods.
>
> Todd Marshall
> Plantersville, TX
I just bought a small generator and was considering using the exhaust for
heating a container of water for a "Navy shower" (wet up, lather, rinse) -
but I have full water service and would perfer to tak "Hollywood showers".
| |
| Piccolo Pete 2006-12-05, 5:25 pm |
|
"Vaughn Simon" <vaughnsimonHATESSPAM@att.FAKE.net> wrote in message
news:auHch.143840$Fi1.126564@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>
> "news.mw.net" <ShuttleSPAMcoch@hotGUARDmail.com> wrote in message
> news:mn.1b837d6ccc385a96.64067@hotGUARDmail.com...
wet,[color=darkred]
>
> Yep, that is called a "Navy shower". The type of shower that the
rest of
> us take is known in the Navy as a Hollywood shower".
Sorry... seems I need to read all of the posts before I duplicate another.
| |
|
|
>
> I just bought a small generator and was considering using the exhaust for
> heating a container of water for a "Navy shower" (wet up, lather, rinse) -
> but I have full water service and would perfer to tak "Hollywood showers".
There's much more heat in the exhaust than the coolant. However, it's
probably a little tougher to capture.
I'm completely stand alone so water is also an issue. I use rain water.
When I was doing the planning I found my "Hollywood shower" used 15gal.
My RV shower uses 0.75gal. I just didn't have the water to waste and
filtering and recycling was going to be a major hassle.
/Todd Marshall
Plantersville, TX
| |
| homeboy465 2006-12-08, 5:25 pm |
|
"Todd" <Todd@WithGLEE.com> wrote in message
news:1165527406.102639.223320@j72g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
>
> There's much more heat in the exhaust than the coolant. However, it's
> probably a little tougher to capture.
>
> I'm completely stand alone so water is also an issue. I use rain water.
>
>
> When I was doing the planning I found my "Hollywood shower" used 15gal.
> My RV shower uses 0.75gal. I just didn't have the water to waste and
> filtering and recycling was going to be a major hassle.
>
> /Todd Marshall
> Plantersville, TX
>
from all the sailors/matlo's i have talked to and thats quite a few (i live
in plymouth uk naval town for hundreds of years) and their ideaa of a naly
shower is just using half a can of deoderant lol i know this has no insite
into your problem and if anything is even more enviromentally unsound but it
is a alturnative solution and you don;t even have to worry about having
water let alone heating it.
i have however seen a solar shower made using an old radiator painted black
and filled with water leave it i the sun for an hour or 2 and you have
something like 5 gallons of warm water i don't quite know the exact volume.
| |
| Solar Flare 2006-12-10, 8:25 pm |
| Don't forget to subtract the wieght of the rust.
"homeboy465" <homeboy465@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:yMkeh.50071$Pk.32609@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
>
> i have however seen a solar shower made using an old radiator
> painted black and filled with water leave it i the sun for an hour
> or 2 and you have something like 5 gallons of warm water i don't
> quite know the exact volume.
>
| |
| homeboy465 2006-12-11, 9:25 am |
| the one i had seen the radiator was in good nick and there was no rust noted
and they are prettty rust retardant due to what their purpas is lol
but you are correst lol
"Solar Flare" <solaerfart@hootmail.invalidated> wrote in message
news:46KdnbVb3P83N-HYnZ2dnUVZ_vupnZ2d@golden.net...
> Don't forget to subtract the wieght of the rust.
>
> "homeboy465" <homeboy465@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:yMkeh.50071$Pk.32609@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
>
>
| |
| Solar Flare 2006-12-11, 9:25 pm |
| I wanted to use one of those but the iron units that will last are not
good for water with oxygen available in it, only for closed systems.
"homeboy465" <homeboy465@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:JJcfh.58461$Pk.39980@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
> the one i had seen the radiator was in good nick and there was no
> rust noted and they are prettty rust retardant due to what their
> purpas is lol
> but you are correst lol
> "Solar Flare" <solaerfart@hootmail.invalidated> wrote in message
> news:46KdnbVb3P83N-HYnZ2dnUVZ_vupnZ2d@golden.net...
>
>
| |
| homeboy465 2006-12-12, 9:25 am |
| True I don't think these are iron I think they are steel I could be wrong
though I often am.
"Solar Flare" <solaerfart@hootmail.invalidated> wrote in message
news:VJGdnfsgfKDDhuPYnZ2dnUVZ_u63nZ2d@golden.net...
>I wanted to use one of those but the iron units that will last are not good
>for water with oxygen available in it, only for closed systems.
>
> "homeboy465" <homeboy465@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:JJcfh.58461$Pk.39980@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
>
>
| |
| Solar Flare 2006-12-12, 5:25 pm |
| Maybe you can explain the difference of iron and steel to me.
"homeboy465" <homeboy465@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:adzfh.64616$Pk.57487@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
> True I don't think these are iron I think they are steel I could be
> wrong though I often am.
>
> "Solar Flare" <solaerfart@hootmail.invalidated> wrote in message
> news:VJGdnfsgfKDDhuPYnZ2dnUVZ_u63nZ2d@golden.net...
>
>
| |
|
|
| Solar Flare 2006-12-12, 8:25 pm |
| Thanx for that. I was top notch in metalurgy in high-school but never
got a satisfactory explanation of the difference. They just kept
telling me it was more refined.
SO then iron cannot be hardened by tempering and steel can due to
carbon content. Stainless is self explanatory.
Anyway, for the purpose of the discussion here about rust in the
radiator, there is no difference.
"Opus" <beausdad@charter.net> wrote in message
news:rsFfh.1325$4v7.540@newsfe04.lga...
>
> "Solar Flare" <solaerfart@hootmail.invalidated> wrote in message
> news:MP6dndSBo_U9juLYnZ2dnUVZ_tSunZ2d@golden.net...
>
> http://blog.lib.umn.edu/ante0009/ar...el_vs_iron.html
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Op
>
| |
|
|
"Solar Flare" <solaerfart@hootmail.invalidated> wrote in message
news:6r6dnTZsrebyoOLYnZ2dnUVZ_sapnZ2d@golden.net...
> Thanx for that. I was top notch in metalurgy in high-school but never got
> a satisfactory explanation of the difference. They just kept telling me it
> was more refined.
>
> SO then iron cannot be hardened by tempering and steel can due to carbon
> content. Stainless is self explanatory.
>
> Anyway, for the purpose of the discussion here about rust in the radiator,
> there is no difference.
If that is the purpose of this discussion, then I'd say no, as they are both
ferrous metals. One reason for aluminum radiators.
Op
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| homeboy465 2006-12-13, 9:25 am |
|
"Opus" <beausdad@charter.net> wrote in message
news:F_Jfh.60$Vh.36@newsfe05.lga...
>
> "Solar Flare" <solaerfart@hootmail.invalidated> wrote in message
> news:6r6dnTZsrebyoOLYnZ2dnUVZ_sapnZ2d@golden.net...
>
> If that is the purpose of this discussion, then I'd say no, as they are
> both ferrous metals. One reason for aluminum radiators.
>
> Op
>
no but steel do take a lot longer to rust than just rort iron
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"homeboy465" <homeboy465@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:GMTfh.67157$Pk.50563@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
>
> "Opus" <beausdad@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:F_Jfh.60$Vh.36@newsfe05.lga...
> no but steel do take a lot longer to rust than just rort iron
Huh?
Op
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| Solar Flare 2006-12-13, 8:25 pm |
| Make it say whatever you like...LOL
"Opus" <beausdad@charter.net> wrote in message
news:ZPTfh.2$tw1.0@newsfe06.lga...
>
> "homeboy465" <homeboy465@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:GMTfh.67157$Pk.50563@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
>
> Huh?
>
> Op
>
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"Solar Flare" <solaerfart@hootmail.invalidated> wrote in message
news:j6adnQGSFd2BDh3YnZ2dnUVZ_qGjnZ2d@golden.net...[color=darkred]
> Make it say whatever you like...LOL
>
> "Opus" <beausdad@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:ZPTfh.2$tw1.0@newsfe06.lga...
That's the problem. I can't!
Op
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| homeboy465 2006-12-14, 9:25 am |
|
"Opus" <beausdad@charter.net> wrote in message
news:GO3gh.421$tw1.290@newsfe06.lga...
>
> "Solar Flare" <solaerfart@hootmail.invalidated> wrote in message
> news:j6adnQGSFd2BDh3YnZ2dnUVZ_qGjnZ2d@golden.net...
>
> That's the problem. I can't!
>
> Op
>
ok I'm talking 3rd graid stuff.. you remember you tyake 3 test tubes one
with a peace opf copper wire one with steel wire/cable and one with iron
strips half fill them ith water and see how long they take to rust? steel
took loke twice as long to rust. and rort iron if you don;t even know that
is just like cast iron it is pure iron nothing mixed in with it.
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"homeboy465" <homeboy465@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Dsagh.74849$Pk.7478@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
> ok I'm talking 3rd graid stuff.. you remember you tyake 3 test tubes one
> with a peace opf copper wire one with steel wire/cable and one with iron
> strips half fill them ith water and see how long they take to rust? steel
> took loke twice as long to rust. and rort iron if you don;t even know that
> is just like cast iron it is pure iron nothing mixed in with it.
I don't think anyone was unable to follow the basic scientific tests for the
corrosive effects on different metals that you were trying to convey. The
difficulty arises from you talking with you mouth full.
Op
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| Tony Wesley 2006-12-14, 9:25 am |
|
homeboy465 wrote:
> [...] steel
> took loke twice as long to rust. and rort iron if you don;t even know
I believe the poster is referring to "wrought iron".
> ...that
> is just like cast iron it is pure iron nothing mixed in with it.
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"Tony Wesley" <tonywesley@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1166098561.695524.268480@73g2000cwn.googlegroups.com...
>
> homeboy465 wrote:
>
>
> I believe the poster is referring to "wrought iron".
Yeah, I finally caught on to that.
Op --he really shouldn't type with his mouth full!--
>
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| daestrom 2006-12-14, 5:25 pm |
|
"homeboy465" <homeboy465@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Dsagh.74849$Pk.7478@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
>
> "Opus" <beausdad@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:GO3gh.421$tw1.290@newsfe06.lga...
> ok I'm talking 3rd graid stuff.. you remember you tyake 3 test tubes one
> with a peace opf copper wire one with steel wire/cable and one with iron
> strips half fill them ith water and see how long they take to rust? steel
> took loke twice as long to rust. and rort iron if you don;t even know that
> is just like cast iron it is pure iron nothing mixed in with it.
I think you mean 'wrought iron'. Yes, it is simple iron material that has
been 'worked' (i.e. wrought). The working helps to move crystalline
imperfections towards grain boundaries and thus make the overall material
harder (sometimes also referred to as 'work hardening').
daestrom
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| homeboy465 2006-12-15, 9:25 am |
|
"Opus" <beausdad@charter.net> wrote in message
news:WXagh.4$8F3.2@newsfe02.lga...
>
> "homeboy465" <homeboy465@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:Dsagh.74849$Pk.7478@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
>
>
> I don't think anyone was unable to follow the basic scientific tests for
> the corrosive effects on different metals that you were trying to convey.
> The difficulty arises from you talking with you mouth full.
>
> Op
>
yeah sorry about that i do tend to over complicte things
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| homeboy465 2006-12-15, 9:25 am |
|
"Tony Wesley" <tonywesley@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1166098561.695524.268480@73g2000cwn.googlegroups.com...
>
> homeboy465 wrote:
>
>
> I believe the poster is referring to "wrought iron".
>
>
yeah hanks my spelling has always been a proplem thanks for the heads up
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