Alternative Power sources - Buying Used Generator

Author

Buying Used Generator

Genny

2007-08-23, 9:25 am

I am in the process of buying a generator to use at an off grid
cabin. It will be used for lots of things, but for short periods of
time (weekends etc), and in conjunction with propane and solar. My
uncle has a used generator he bought for Y2K, that he used once when
the power went out, and runs about once a year to see how it's doing.
So basically it's been sitting in his garage for 7 years. It is a
Generac 5500XL Portable Generator. Model # 9885-3 (5500 Watt AC
Generator). It seems like a good option, he's asking $800 (Cnd) for
it. Any thoughts on whether or not this is a good decision?

Mårty

2007-08-23, 1:25 pm

Genny wrote:
> So basically it's been sitting in his garage for 7 years. It is a
> Generac 5500XL Portable Generator. $800

(horribly overpriced) !!!

you can buy a brand new Honda engine equipped 5.5 - 7 kW generator (at
Walmart, Sam's Club, Costco) for less than that and have a full warranty
with it.

the proper price would be $100 or less

Ulysses

2007-08-23, 1:25 pm

"Genny" <jme@mts.net> wrote in message
news:1187878783.501702.91610@j4g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
> I am in the process of buying a generator to use at an off grid
> cabin. It will be used for lots of things, but for short periods of
> time (weekends etc), and in conjunction with propane and solar. My
> uncle has a used generator he bought for Y2K, that he used once when
> the power went out, and runs about once a year to see how it's doing.
> So basically it's been sitting in his garage for 7 years. It is a
> Generac 5500XL Portable Generator. Model # 9885-3 (5500 Watt AC
> Generator). It seems like a good option, he's asking $800 (Cnd) for
> it. Any thoughts on whether or not this is a good decision?
>

I'd say your uncle is not very generous. Shop around. I'm sure you can get
a much better deal. I bought a 5000 watt UST Chinese generator from an auto
parts store for under $400 and it works just fine. I recommend you only buy
one with an OHV (overhead valve) engine or at least an OHC (overhead cam)
engine). Don't get one with a lawnmower type engine. Personally I would
not buy anything with a Tecumseh or Briggs engine. Make sure it has low oil
shutdown and watch out for any flimsly, chincy parts that might break
easily. A big gas tank is nice. Buy it from a place where you can return
it if you don't like it. It should start with one or two pulls.

hubops

2007-08-23, 5:25 pm

hubops <tabbertj@perth.net> wrote in
news:dgvrc3hfgkkm6fc2dmgnfeu03upesr9mgb@4ax.com:

> On Thu, 23 Aug 2007 07:19:43 -0700, Genny <jme@mts.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> One-man's "cabin" .. is another man's mansion.
> I would think that 5000 watts is huge - for a cabin.

yea .. they are also pretty loud. I'd consider an EU2000 Honda if you can
live with 2k watts. It throttles down to meet the load and is pretty dang
quiet

stu

2007-08-23, 8:25 pm

I recommend you only buy
> one with an OHV (overhead valve) engine or at least an OHC (overhead cam)
> engine).

Did you get this back to front or am i missing something??

Vaughn Simon

2007-08-23, 8:25 pm

"z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
news:Xns99959CA5E24F3zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
> I'd consider an EU2000 Honda if you can
> live with 2k watts. It throttles down to meet the load and is pretty dang
> quiet

Amazingly quiet, very reliable, makes perfect power, and will pay for itself
in gas savings over its lifetime. Unfortunately, they are not cheap.

Vaughn

(PeteCresswell)

2007-08-23, 8:25 pm

Per Vaughn Simon:
> Amazingly quiet, very reliable, makes perfect power, and will pay for itself
>in gas savings over its lifetime. Unfortunately, they are not cheap.

Has anybody actually run two EU2000's in parallel and asked them
to start something like an air conditioner what wants a surge
close to 4kw?
--
PeteCresswell

Vaughn Simon

2007-08-23, 8:25 pm

"(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid> wrote in message
news:kt5sc39oj7ggsqmnlu5eopqtp432d5sijg@4ax.com...
> Has anybody actually run two EU2000's in parallel and asked them
> to start something like an air conditioner what wants a surge
> close to 4kw?

The motorhome folks do that stuff all the time. Search any of several
camper groups or check out the Yahoo EU2000 group, that seems to be mostly
camper folks: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group...000_Generators/ .

Vaughn

2007-08-23, 8:25 pm

"(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid> wrote in
news:kt5sc39oj7ggsqmnlu5eopqtp432d5sijg@4ax.com:

> Per Vaughn Simon:
>
> Has anybody actually run two EU2000's in parallel and asked them
> to start something like an air conditioner what wants a surge
> close to 4kw?

my neighbor has 2 he runs in parallel when he's running stuff like a band
saw and other power tools.

dono what his surge needs are, but they work together .. he had just one
and it would barf when he started some of his tools.

2007-08-23, 8:25 pm

"Vaughn Simon" <vaughnsimonHATESSPAM@att.FAKE.net> wrote in
news:Rlozi.455834$p47.158142@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:

>
> "z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
> news:Xns99959CA5E24F3zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
>
> Amazingly quiet, very reliable, makes perfect power, and will pay
> for itself
> in gas savings over its lifetime. Unfortunately, they are not cheap.
>
> Vaughn
>
>

yeah.. especially the newer ones. My oldest one puts some line noise in
-- to where the AM radio has static, but they ironed those problems out
in later revisions.

I run some computers and do some higher end video on my EU and I never
get any kind of interference from it.

I got the honda repair manual for that model and rebuilt one too. Once
you get that (*&^#&ing plastic shell off, you can service the engine and
make them last pretty much for ever. But its the shell that helps make
it so quiet so..

I'm sold on them. Well worth the money if you can afford it.

2007-08-23, 8:25 pm

z <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in
news:Xns9995B7A53504Fzyadayadayada@216.196.97.131:

> "(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid> wrote in
> news:kt5sc39oj7ggsqmnlu5eopqtp432d5sijg@4ax.com:
>
>
> my neighbor has 2 he runs in parallel when he's running stuff like a
> band saw and other power tools.
>
> dono what his surge needs are, but they work together .. he had just
> one and it would barf when he started some of his tools.

also if you turn the 'eco throttle' off for the big surge that helps
bigtime. Then you can click it on once things are rolling.

Pete C.

2007-08-24, 9:25 am

Vaughn Simon wrote:
>
> "(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid> wrote in message
> news:kt5sc39oj7ggsqmnlu5eopqtp432d5sijg@4ax.com...
>
> The motorhome folks do that stuff all the time. Search any of several
> camper groups or check out the Yahoo EU2000 group, that seems to be mostly
> camper folks: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group...000_Generators/ .
>
> Vaughn

rv.net has plenty of forum threads on paralleling the EUs. I've not
tried it since a single EU2000 seems to handle the A/C on my truck
camper just fine.

Pete C.

2007-08-24, 9:25 am

z wrote:
>
> "Vaughn Simon" <vaughnsimonHATESSPAM@att.FAKE.net> wrote in
> news:Rlozi.455834$p47.158142@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:
>
>
> yeah.. especially the newer ones. My oldest one puts some line noise in
> -- to where the AM radio has static, but they ironed those problems out
> in later revisions.
>
> I run some computers and do some higher end video on my EU and I never
> get any kind of interference from it.
>
> I got the honda repair manual for that model and rebuilt one too. Once
> you get that (*&^#&ing plastic shell off, you can service the engine and
> make them last pretty much for ever. But its the shell that helps make
> it so quiet so..
>
> I'm sold on them. Well worth the money if you can afford it.

Where did you get the service manual?

Pete C.

2007-08-24, 1:25 pm

"Pete C." wrote:
>
> z wrote:
>
> Where did you get the service manual?

Never mind, I got it, or will have it in a week or so.

philkryder

2007-08-24, 1:25 pm

On Aug 23, 7:19 am, Genny <j...@mts.net> wrote:
> I am in the process of buying a generator to use at an off grid
> cabin. It will be used for lots of things, but for short periods of
> time (weekends etc), and in conjunction with propane and solar. My
> uncle has a used generator he bought for Y2K, that he used once when
> the power went out, and runs about once a year to see how it's doing.
> So basically it's been sitting in his garage for 7 years. It is a
> Generac 5500XL Portable Generator. Model # 9885-3 (5500 Watt AC
> Generator). It seems like a good option, he's asking $800 (Cnd) for
> it. Any thoughts on whether or not this is a good decision?

A couple questions, first.
How can you attenuate the noise from the generator at your cabin?
Ask your Uncle to start it and listen a bit.

How many hours per year do you intend to run it?

How long do you intend to keep the cabin?

If the answers to the above lead you to "many hours and many years,"
then you should consider a more fuel efficient diesel or smaller gas
with propane conversion.
Initial costs will be higher, but fuel costs will dominate lifetime
costs.

If the noise is difficult to attenuate, then consider one of the small
Yamaha or Honda inverter models.
Some of the Yamaha have propane kits pre-installed.

Finally, I value my family ties and try to avoid joint commercial
ventures to avoid any hard feelings going in either direction.
Consider this scenario:
"You bought it for $800, hauled to the cabin, started it and it threw
a rod and ruined the engine?"
Or
"You fire it up and it "toasts" your spouse/significant other's new
laptop computer.
How would you, your spouse/significant other feel?

Best.
Phil

Neon John

2007-08-24, 1:25 pm

On Thu, 23 Aug 2007 07:19:43 -0700, Genny <jme@mts.net> wrote:

>I am in the process of buying a generator to use at an off grid
>cabin. It will be used for lots of things, but for short periods of
>time (weekends etc), and in conjunction with propane and solar. My
>uncle has a used generator he bought for Y2K, that he used once when
>the power went out, and runs about once a year to see how it's doing.
>So basically it's been sitting in his garage for 7 years. It is a
>Generac 5500XL Portable Generator. Model # 9885-3 (5500 Watt AC
>Generator). It seems like a good option, he's asking $800 (Cnd) for
>it. Any thoughts on whether or not this is a good decision?

Way too much money for that generator, close to the selling price.

That's an awful lot of generator for a cabin unless it's really an all-electric small
house. It'll use a lot of fuel and be noisy. I can run everything in my
all-electric small house/cabin except the heat pump with my 5.5KW Generac QuietPack,
including the electric stove. I have a 7KW version of that XL Generac like your
uncle's that will run everything including the heat pump but I don't like to use it
because it's a fuel hog and it's noisy.

If you're just going to be running lights and a refrigerator then a 2-3KW generator
will be more than enough. Maybe even a 1KW.

Do you have enough batteries and inverter to run all your loads? If so then you
might consider a dedicated engine-driven battery charger. That will certainly be
more fuel-efficient than running a lightly loaded generator.

In any event, I'd pass on your uncle's Generac. To big, too noisy and too expensive.

John
--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
If we aren't supposed to eat animals, why are they made with meat?

Genny

2007-08-26, 1:25 pm

Re:
How can you attenuate the noise from the generator at your cabin?
Ask your Uncle to start it and listen a bit.
How many hours per year do you intend to run it?
How long do you intend to keep the cabin?

Picture two acres of bush about 10 km from mainland, where we will
never have public electricity. Now picture two 30 year olds with two
little kids trying to get away from the camping they've endured for 7
years by building an 1100 sq ft cabin. We need power to run power
tools, and likely lots of them for long hours...at first. Once that's
done, it will be for the odd project we need the power tools. Ideally
we would like to run a fridge and stove off of propane, not the
generator. The lights, small appliances, water pump, ceiling fans,
etc we would "some day" like to run off of all solar, however in the
present, it's not in our budget, what we've priced out is about
$10,000. Don't forget I'm working in Canadian dollars here, you're
all telling me $800 is way over priced, but I've seen his receipt, he
bought it for almost $1600, he is going to put it in the Buy and Sell
for $1000 if I don't want it. Of course there is always the risk when
you buy something second hand, and there are some uncles whose crap I
would not want to buy out of their garage. But I know this one is
okay, and if something goes on it I guess that's the chance you take.
So, all the advice I'm getting seems like a big fat no, but I'm not
convinced. My neighbours who have generators all have big ones, and
you can hear them running, but not all day, and we're pretty isolated,
we're not 20 ft away from each other.

The EU2000 sounds appealing but they're $1200 in Canada to buy brand
new, not $800 like some of you guys are suggesting. I don't know if
it would run everything I need to at this point in our building.

Neon John

2007-08-26, 1:25 pm

On Sun, 26 Aug 2007 07:36:52 -0700, Genny <jme@mts.net> wrote:

>Picture two acres of bush about 10 km from mainland, where we will
>never have public electricity. Now picture two 30 year olds with two
>little kids trying to get away from the camping they've endured for 7
>years by building an 1100 sq ft cabin. We need power to run power
>tools, and likely lots of them for long hours...at first. Once that's
>done, it will be for the odd project we need the power tools. Ideally
>we would like to run a fridge and stove off of propane, not the
>generator. The lights, small appliances, water pump, ceiling fans,
>etc we would "some day" like to run off of all solar, however in the
>present, it's not in our budget, what we've priced out is about
>$10,000.

>Don't forget I'm working in Canadian dollars here, you're
>all telling me $800 is way over priced, but I've seen his receipt, he
>bought it for almost $1600, he is going to put it in the Buy and Sell
>for $1000 if I don't want it.

That was then and this is now. The US and CAN dollar are at parity now for all
practical purposes. CAD$0.98 to the US dollar when I checked a few minutes ago. The
fact is, that generator can be had now for about what he's asking for it. If he
wants to try to sell it for $1000 then I say let him go for it.

Look at this, the very first hit I got on Google.

http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/401200319.html

He's asking $700 for a used machine including the wheel kit and the backup power cord
($75) and says he paid $950 at Home Depot. I think that $700 is too much for a used
generator but the ad gives you some perspective.

Here's another one on Craig's List. "Used twice, $350". You could buy that one, pay
$100 shipping and still come in at less than half your uncle's asking price.

>So, all the advice I'm getting seems like a big fat no, but I'm not
>convinced. My neighbours who have generators all have big ones, and
>you can hear them running, but not all day, and we're pretty isolated,
>we're not 20 ft away from each other.

You've come here looking for others to bless your choice in generators, the choice
you've apparently already made. That's not gonna happen because the deal is a bad
one. It's too much generator for the application, it's noisy and a fuel hog and the
price is too high. But hey, go for it. It's your money, not ours.

>
>The EU2000 sounds appealing but they're $1200 in Canada to buy brand
>new, not $800 like some of you guys are suggesting. I don't know if
>it would run everything I need to at this point in our building.

Some folks seem to think that EU generators are good for everything. They're not.
Good but overpriced (I much prefer the Yamaha equivalents) for puttering around -
like after your cabin is built - but lousy for operating power tools. Inverter
generators in general and not just the EUs have essentially no surge capacity. When
the inverter trips from overload trying to start the motor in that power tool, the
generator has to be shut down to reset it.

If I were in your shoes, I'd pounce on that second Craig's List listing with the idea
of selling the generator and getting my money back when the cabin is built. Then I'd
get my inverter and battery bank for the planned solar system along with a suitable
gas powered charger. Something like my Cordless Battery Charger

http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/...attery_charger/

(My CBC can charge at 150 amps continuously and does the three stage smart charge
algorithm)

or a small AC generator and a smart charger. Say, this little generator:

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...13480_200313480
(Keep an eye out for it to go on sale for $99)

or the 4-stroke equiv for about $200. Pep Boys carries a line of ChiCom Honda
(allegedly licensed) knockoffs at very cheap prices. For example:

http://pepboys.shoplocal.com/pepboy...id%3d442250%26p
agenumber%3d1%26prvid%3dPepBoys-070826%26promotioncode%3dPepBoys-070826

First one I came to.

And a smart battery charger such as the Progressive Dynamics Intellipower with Charge
Wizard.

http://www.progressivedyn.com/hotdeals.html

The 60 amp PD is almost perfectly matched to that little $100 generator from
Northern. I use that combo to charge the batteries in my RV when I don't want to run
the main generator.

It's unlikely that your continuous average load will be greater than a kW so
something in that range should handle it. The battery bank supplies the surge power
needed to run, say, the microwave.

Once you experience a few days of feeding a gallon-an-hour generator (what that
Generac will consume even at part load) then maybe you'll pay attention to those of
us with actual experience. The advantage of the battery bank/inverter/generator
architecture is that you don't have to run the generator all the time and when it IS
running, it's running at full load which is the most efficient use of the generator.

Well, I've spent almost and hour writing this post. Enough for me. Buy your uncle's
generator if you have your heart set on it but don't be surprised if "I told you so"
isn't echoing in your ears down the road.

John

--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
Multitasking: Reading in the bathroom!

wmbjkREMOVE@citlink.net

2007-08-26, 8:25 pm

On Sun, 26 Aug 2007 07:36:52 -0700, Genny <jme@mts.net> wrote:

> Don't forget I'm working in Canadian dollars here, you're
>all telling me $800 is way over priced, but I've seen his receipt, he
>bought it for almost $1600

He probably overpaid. Here are a bunch at Canadian Tire
http://tinyurl.com/2o3l8s Your uncle's is reasonably similar to the
$900 Coleman. Similar prices at Home Depot http://tinyurl.com/2lt8xq.
Used stuff should be <75% of new, so even if you're willing to
consider the tax savings, $900 is pretty steep.

>, he is going to put it in the Buy and Sell
>for $1000 if I don't want it.

Someone may pay that much if they're say, comparing prices to what's
available at their local hardware store.

> Of course there is always the risk when
>you buy something second hand, and there are some uncles whose crap I
>would not want to buy out of their garage. But I know this one is
>okay, and if something goes on it I guess that's the chance you take.
>So, all the advice I'm getting seems like a big fat no, but I'm not
>convinced. My neighbours who have generators all have big ones, and
>you can hear them running, but not all day, and we're pretty isolated,
>we're not 20 ft away from each other.

You're probably going to put a lot of hours on it. Unless you're
willing to stop and restart it constantly, I'd get something a little
smaller. The Yardworks 3500 at CT looks OK if perhaps overpriced.
Cheap generators rated at 3500W will usually run any single 120V power
tool, and multiples of smaller stuff.

>The EU2000 sounds appealing but they're $1200 in Canada to buy brand
>new, not $800 like some of you guys are suggesting. I don't know if
>it would run everything I need to at this point in our building.

I've used one to run the usual 15A abrasive chop saw and "140A" MIG
welder. It would probably be OK with all the standard tools except
perhaps a big worm-drive skilsaw or a table saw, especially if you
were trying to push through wet lumber. If you plan to run a
compressor for air tools then an EU would be working too hard. Ideally
you'd have an EU (or perhaps a clone) for the long hours of idling and
running small tools, and a larger generator for big loads.

Wayne

philkryder

2007-08-27, 1:25 pm

On Aug 26, 7:36 am, Genny <j...@mts.net> wrote:
> Re:
> How can you attenuate the noise from the generator at your cabin?
> Ask your Uncle to start it and listen a bit.
> How many hours per year do you intend to run it?
> How long do you intend to keep the cabin?
>
> Picture two acres of bush about 10 km from mainland, where we will
> never have public electricity. Now picture two 30 year olds with two
> little kids trying to get away from the camping they've endured for 7
> years by building an 1100 sq ft cabin. We need power to run power
> tools, and likely lots of them for long hours...at first. Once that's
> done, it will be for the odd project we need the power tools. Ideally
> we would like to run a fridge and stove off of propane, not the
> generator. The lights, small appliances, water pump, ceiling fans,
> etc we would "some day" like to run off of all solar, however in the
> present, it's not in our budget, what we've priced out is about
> $10,000. Don't forget I'm working in Canadian dollars here, you're
> all telling me $800 is way over priced, but I've seen his receipt, he
> bought it for almost $1600, he is going to put it in the Buy and Sell
> for $1000 if I don't want it. Of course there is always the risk when
> you buy something second hand, and there are some uncles whose crap I
> would not want to buy out of their garage. But I know this one is
> okay, and if something goes on it I guess that's the chance you take.
> So, all the advice I'm getting seems like a big fat no, but I'm not
> convinced. My neighbours who have generators all have big ones, and
> you can hear them running, but not all day, and we're pretty isolated,
> we're not 20 ft away from each other.
>
> The EU2000 sounds appealing but they're $1200 in Canada to buy brand
> new, not $800 like some of you guys are suggesting. I don't know if
> it would run everything I need to at this point in our building.

Looks like you've got answers to the questions, that satisfy you..

Enjoy.

Phil

Ulysses

2007-08-27, 1:25 pm

"stu" <nowhere@justyet.com> wrote in message
news:46ce0b06$0$19339$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...
> I recommend you only buy
cam)[color=darkred]
>
> Did you get this back to front or am i missing something??
>
>

No. After having several of both kinds of engines I have come to prefer the
OHV over the OHC engines. The OHV engines have pushrods instead of a
plastic cam and belt. In my opinion they are more durable and easier to
work on. The OHC may be a little quieter and efficient but I run my
generators a lot and the less I have to work on them the better. The OHC
engines that I have are not really rebuildable unless you buy a new
cylinder. The "head" is an integral part of the cylinder so I'm not even
sure if reboring is an option. On OHV engines such as the Honda GX series
at least four different sizes of pistons and rings are available so the
cylinder can (probably) be rebored at least three times. Undersized pison
rods are also available to account for crankshaft wear.

Ulysses

2007-08-27, 1:25 pm

"z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9995B8BC455F6zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
> "Vaughn Simon" <vaughnsimonHATESSPAM@att.FAKE.net> wrote in
> news:Rlozi.455834$p47.158142@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:
>
>
> yeah.. especially the newer ones. My oldest one puts some line noise in
> -- to where the AM radio has static, but they ironed those problems out
> in later revisions.
>
> I run some computers and do some higher end video on my EU and I never
> get any kind of interference from it.
>
> I got the honda repair manual for that model and rebuilt one too. Once
> you get that (*&^#&ing plastic shell off, you can service the engine and
> make them last pretty much for ever. But its the shell that helps make
> it so quiet so..

To what extent did you rebuld it? New cam and belt and oil splasher?

>
> I'm sold on them. Well worth the money if you can afford it.

Ulysses

2007-08-27, 1:25 pm

"Genny" <jme@mts.net> wrote in message
news:1188139012.202965.123470@57g2000hsv.googlegroups.com...
>
> Re:
> How can you attenuate the noise from the generator at your cabin?
> Ask your Uncle to start it and listen a bit.
> How many hours per year do you intend to run it?
> How long do you intend to keep the cabin?
>
> Picture two acres of bush about 10 km from mainland, where we will
> never have public electricity. Now picture two 30 year olds with two
> little kids trying to get away from the camping they've endured for 7
> years by building an 1100 sq ft cabin. We need power to run power
> tools, and likely lots of them for long hours...at first. Once that's
> done, it will be for the odd project we need the power tools. Ideally
> we would like to run a fridge and stove off of propane, not the
> generator. The lights, small appliances, water pump, ceiling fans,
> etc we would "some day" like to run off of all solar, however in the
> present, it's not in our budget, what we've priced out is about
> $10,000. Don't forget I'm working in Canadian dollars here, you're
> all telling me $800 is way over priced, but I've seen his receipt, he
> bought it for almost $1600, he is going to put it in the Buy and Sell
> for $1000 if I don't want it. Of course there is always the risk when
> you buy something second hand, and there are some uncles whose crap I
> would not want to buy out of their garage. But I know this one is
> okay, and if something goes on it I guess that's the chance you take.
> So, all the advice I'm getting seems like a big fat no, but I'm not
> convinced. My neighbours who have generators all have big ones, and
> you can hear them running, but not all day, and we're pretty isolated,
> we're not 20 ft away from each other.
>
> The EU2000 sounds appealing but they're $1200 in Canada to buy brand
> new, not $800 like some of you guys are suggesting. I don't know if
> it would run everything I need to at this point in our building.
>

An eu2000 will run many kinds of saws, or a refrigerator, but probably not a
compressor and certainly not a saw and refrigerator at the same time
(without futzing a lot).

Ulysses

2007-08-27, 5:25 pm

"Neon John" <no@never.com> wrote in message
news:u783d39dji5799rgd8h0rl6ftcg726nmic@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 26 Aug 2007 07:36:52 -0700, Genny <jme@mts.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> or the 4-stroke equiv for about $200. Pep Boys carries a line of ChiCom
Honda
> (allegedly licensed) knockoffs at very cheap prices. For example:

The Pep Boys' around here sell the UST generators and the engines (at least
in the manual) look exactly like Honda GX OHV engines (on the inside,
anyway). I have a 2300 watt model that I paid well less than $200 for and I
run it slightly overloaded most of the time and it has over 1500 hours on it
and it works fine. I change the oil every 50 hours. In many ways I like it
better than my Honda eu2000. For one thing it has a bit more power and
seems to use about the same amount of gas. It's somewhat louder though. It
runs my Vector Smart Charger just fine. And if it breaks it will not cost
more than $200 to fix ;-).

I'll have to take a look at the ChiCom. Sounds interesting. As for the
little 1000 watt job that sounds like a 2-stroke and I don't get along well
with 2-strokes.

>
>
http://pepboys.shoplocal.com/pepboy...&pretailerid=-9
9798&ref=%2fpepboys%2fDefault.aspx%3faction%3dbrowsepagesingle%26storeid%3d2
314614%26rapid%3d442250%26pagenumber%3d1%26prvid%3dPepBoys-070826%26promotio
ncode%3dPepBoys-070826
>

Genny

2007-08-28, 5:25 pm

On Aug 26, 11:37 am, Neon John <n...@never.com> wrote:

> That was then and this is now. The US and CAN dollar are at parity now for all
> practical purposes. CAD$0.98 to the US dollar when I checked a few minutes ago. The
> fact is, thatgeneratorcan be had now for about what he's asking for it. If he
> wants to try to sell it for $1000 then I say let him go for it.
>
> You've come here looking for others to bless your choice in generators, the choice
> you've apparently already made. That's not gonna happen because the deal is a bad
> one. It's too much generator for the application, it's noisy and a fuel hog and the
> price is too high. But hey, go for it. It's your money, not ours.

> Once you experience a few days of feeding a gallon-an-hourgenerator(what that
> Generac will consume even at part load) then maybe you'll pay attention to those of
> us with actual experience. The advantage of the battery bank/inverter/generator
> architecture is that you don't have to run the generator all the time and when it IS
> running, it's running at full load which is the most efficient use of thegenerator.
>
> Well, I've spent almost and hour writing this post. Enough for me. Buy your uncle's generator if you have your heart set on it but don't be surprised if "I told you so" isn't echoing in your ears down the road.

Wow, overwhelmed by your support here...I haven't made a decision, I'm
still looking into it. I just can't figure out why our contractor,
our solar retailer, and our neighbour with 3500 watts have all told me
not to go smaller than 5000. I've heard that Honda is the best from
many people, heard Coleman is not so good from many. I know you
usually get what you pay for, but I don't want to spend more than
$1000. It's not that easy for me to just go online and order a
generator from the US. Other than shipping costs, there is duty, plus
some places won't deliver outside the US, and I'm then buying without
seeing it. My reality is I have not found a whole lot in my price
range here in Canada that doesn't look like garbage. But although the
advice here in this group has been plentiful, it has not really been
very helpful but thanks for your time.

(PeteCresswell)

2007-08-28, 5:25 pm

Per Genny:
>I just can't figure out why our contractor,
>our solar retailer, and our neighbour with 3500 watts have all told me
>not to go smaller than 5000.

I'd think the decision on what to buy would be made based on
one's own personal evaluation of:
----------------------------------------------------------
- The generator's per-hour gas consumption,

- Anticipated availability of gasoline when the generator(s)
are needed,

- How clean you need the power to be,

- Purchase price,

- The load you want to handle (including surges),

- Expected service hours per year,

- The price of gas,

- How much money you care to spend on gas, and

- How much money you care to spend on the generator(s)
----------------------------------------------------------

To me, the most basic thing is finding out how many gallons per
hour the thing burns - both at low load and max load.

The other information is probably right at hand.

It might make sense to have two generators: big and small.

If you've got plenty money, plenty gas, and only expect to run
the thing for two days every three years that makes 5kw seem like
a no-brainer

OTOH, if money is a consideration and the unit(s) will be run
hundreds or thousands of hours per year, matching the
generator(s) to needs - and maybe figuring out ways to reduce the
needs - become considerations.

OTOOH, if all the gas pumps in your area depend on electric
power to operate and you're not willing to store and maintain
a rather large (and dangerous?) supply of gasoline; and you want
tb covered for several days of power outage.... you probably want
the smallest, easiest-on-gas unit that you can find.

OTOOOH, if you're *really* serious and have plenty bucks
AND have natural gas heating, the no-brainer to me seems
tb pouring a concrete pad, dropping in a 5 or 6kw generator
that's hooked up to the nat gas line, and having an automated
cutover switch installed. Power goes out. Lights go out.
10-15 seconds pass. Genny fires up automagically.
Lights go on. Life goes on.

From all the threads I've read so far,
I've concluded/observed:
---------------------------------------------------------
1) The EU2000 I bought was a good move.

It will get my freezer/refrigerators through a blackout,
let me keep on working on my PC, and let us watch a little TV
for at least three days using whatever gasoline we have
laying around - in the garden shed or in our two cars.

It's also got utility for outdoor projects, big picnics,
and so-forth

Finally, I can throw it into my car and become a
certified Good Guy if/when friends/relatives have a
power failure and we don't.

2) I should probably get a good cutover switch installed
as my next move.

In fact, fumbling around with a 100-foot extension cord
in freezing rain in the middle of the night may make me
wish I'd actually done this instead of just blathering
on about it in this NG post.

3) In the end, I might get an el-cheapo 5 or 6 kW unit to
supplement the 2kw Honda - if only to drown out the
racket from my neighbor's 5k2 Home Depot special... -)

4) Natural gas is maintenance-free.

The more I think about it, the more it seems to me like
having a gas line run to our garden shed and converting
whatever generator we have to run on natural gas OR gasoline
would be worthwhile move to address the realities of a *real*
power failure - i.e. more than just a couple of days
duration and limited access to gasoline....
---------------------------------------------------------

--
PeteCresswell

philkryder

2007-08-29, 3:25 am

On Aug 28, 11:32 am, Genny <j...@mts.net> wrote:
> On Aug 26, 11:37 am, Neon John <n...@never.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Wow, overwhelmed by your support here...I haven't made a decision, I'm
> still looking into it. I just can't figure out why our contractor,
> our solar retailer, and our neighbour with 3500 watts have all told me
> not to go smaller than 5000. I've heard that Honda is the best from
> many people, heard Coleman is not so good from many. I know you
> usually get what you pay for, but I don't want to spend more than
> $1000. It's not that easy for me to just go online and order a
> generator from the US. Other than shipping costs, there is duty, plus
> some places won't deliver outside the US, and I'm then buying without
> seeing it. My reality is I have not found a whole lot in my price
> range here in Canada that doesn't look like garbage. But although the
> advice here in this group has been plentiful, it has not really been
> very helpful but thanks for your time.

It sounds like you feel you're getting a reasonable deal based on what
you've seen in your area.

You identified the family issues and seem comfortable with them.

You sound like you'll be doing about as much construction as
"cabining" - so the larger size makes sense for running the tools you
need.
My question about the smaller units were only pertinent if noise was
an issue.
It sounds like noise is not a big issue for you.

I had a similar experience on this newsgroup a couple of years ago.
I asked some questions.
Got some advice that did not exactly fit my circumstances.
Made my decisions.
We ended up with a slightly larger than needed 8000w with 13500 surge
and bought 3 of them for redundancy.
Have been quite satisfied with the results.

One last issue that I haven't seen your response to is fuel
consumption.
A diesel would probably use a bit less fuel - and might pay over the
long term.
But, it sounds like you have a handle on how to transport the gasoline
that you'll need and are comfortable with it.

Enjoy your cabin.

You'll do fine.
Phil

Ulysses

2007-08-29, 5:25 pm

"Genny" <jme@mts.net> wrote in message
news:1188325951.278256.247350@w3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
> On Aug 26, 11:37 am, Neon John <n...@never.com> wrote:
>
for all[color=darkred]
minutes ago. The[color=darkred]
If he[color=darkred]
the choice[color=darkred]
deal is a bad[color=darkred]
hog and the[color=darkred]
>
that[color=darkred]
to those of[color=darkred]
bank/inverter/generator[color=darkred]
and when it IS[color=darkred]
thegenerator.[color=darkred]
your uncle's generator if you have your heart set on it but don't be
surprised if "I told you so" isn't echoing in your ears down the road.[color=darkred]
>
>
> Wow, overwhelmed by your support here...I haven't made a decision, I'm
> still looking into it. I just can't figure out why our contractor,
> our solar retailer, and our neighbour with 3500 watts have all told me
> not to go smaller than 5000. I've heard that Honda is the best from
> many people, heard Coleman is not so good from many. I know you
> usually get what you pay for, but I don't want to spend more than
> $1000. It's not that easy for me to just go online and order a
> generator from the US. Other than shipping costs, there is duty, plus
> some places won't deliver outside the US, and I'm then buying without
> seeing it. My reality is I have not found a whole lot in my price
> range here in Canada that doesn't look like garbage. But although the
> advice here in this group has been plentiful, it has not really been
> very helpful but thanks for your time.
>

This question may be a bit late, but here goes: what engine does your
uncle's Generac have? If it's a Tecumseh HM100 then by all means do not buy
it.

2007-09-03, 11:11 am

"Ulysses" <eatmyspam@spamola.com/> wrote in news:13d653h9bnooa85
@corp.supernews.com:

>
> "z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
> news:Xns9995B8BC455F6zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
pretty[color=darkred]
pay[color=darkred]
cheap.[color=darkred]
in[color=darkred]
out[color=darkred]
Once[color=darkred]
and[color=darkred]
make[color=darkred]
>
> To what extent did you rebuld it? New cam and belt and oil splasher?
>

The most common problem I've seen are stuck valves. Especially on a
generator with a worn belt .. the little rubber teeth come lose and
sometimes get stuck in the valve. I clean them with sea foam and put
them backtogether and that usually fixed them. Or gunk builds up in
there especially if you run them all the time in econo mode. They need
an itialian tune up from time to time (run wide out) & a shot of sea
foam down the spark plug hole and the air intake to help break up the
sludge buildup.

Also done belts .. never had a cam that was bad but now I've got a really
bad case where it looks like it'll need the whole shebang -- new rings
and new valve springs.. it blew up -- valve spring broke and chunks went
down in there... This is my oldest one probably nearly 10 years old now.

Its been sitting on my work bench for a while and i've been slow to get
to it. Summer -- other things going on

As for Yamaha, I used them for a while, but I had an inverter model that
was horrible for power. It created all kinds of interference in my
equipment and when I returned it, they called in the home office and
found out that was normal (so they said .. good pretty local shop so I
trust what they said). Thats when I went for a honda. Previous to the
inverter yamaha I tried I had always used yamaha non-inverter models and
they were great.

So nothing against yamaha at all.. I bet the new ones they make now kick
XXX too. But since I've got the eu2000s and the manual and the old parts
& experience maintaining them etc may as well stick with Honda.

Also have a honda 4 wheeler from the same shop that has been great.

my 02 cents

>
>
>

2007-09-03, 11:11 am

2007-09-03, 11:12 am

2007-09-06, 3:25 am

wow just today I broke down a EU2000 -- the intake valve was so crusty
you could bearly push it down and itwould stay stuck down till you pried
it up with a screwdriver.

I put carb cleaner on it for quite a while trying to get it to cycle and
it wouldn't.

THen I took the carb off and stuck a finger in there .. so much gunk
buildup I could feel it with my finger. I just kept blasting carb cleaner
in there and cleaning it out.. while pushing the valve down and prying it
up with a screw driver from the carb hole. (do this at TDC)

Anyway, after a WHILE it cleaned up.. pulled the starter with the spark
plug out to eject all the gunk and carb cleaner. Put the ol spark plug
back in and after about 10 cranks it fired up.. runs like a beut!

So theres the tip.. if you REALLY need to get at that valve pop the carb
off.. its a shitload easier than taking the lower crank case off .. you
only have to open the top plastic and wedge it open.

whew!~

-z

PS its not always a good thing that folk know you work on these things!!

Vaughn Simon

2007-09-06, 9:25 am

(PeteCresswell)

2007-09-06, 5:25 pm

Per Vaughn Simon:
>Thanks for taking the time to write this up. I will print it out and stick it
>in my EU2000 notebook. You never know...

Amen... thanks again.
--
PeteCresswell

Ulysses

2007-09-07, 8:25 pm

"z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
news:Xns99A2D3E574C1Fzyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
>
> wow just today I broke down a EU2000 -- the intake valve was so crusty
> you could bearly push it down and itwould stay stuck down till you pried
> it up with a screwdriver.
>
> I put carb cleaner on it for quite a while trying to get it to cycle and
> it wouldn't.
>
> THen I took the carb off and stuck a finger in there .. so much gunk
> buildup I could feel it with my finger. I just kept blasting carb cleaner
> in there and cleaning it out.. while pushing the valve down and prying it
> up with a screw driver from the carb hole. (do this at TDC)
>
> Anyway, after a WHILE it cleaned up.. pulled the starter with the spark
> plug out to eject all the gunk and carb cleaner. Put the ol spark plug
> back in and after about 10 cranks it fired up.. runs like a beut!
>
> So theres the tip.. if you REALLY need to get at that valve pop the carb
> off.. its a shitload easier than taking the lower crank case off .. you
> only have to open the top plastic and wedge it open.
>
> whew!~
>
> -z
>
> PS its not always a good thing that folk know you work on these things!!

I don't know where my post went from yesterday but anyway, if there's ever
any parts for an eu2000 that you can't find anywhere you might try:
www.hondapeninsula.com. So far they've had every part I've needed. Lowest
prices that I've seen too. It helps a lot to already have the part number.

Let me know if you figure out how to rebuild the engine on one of these.

2007-09-08, 3:25 am

"Ulysses" <eatmyspam@spamola.com/> wrote in
news:13e3uc6pskqt0fd@corp.supernews.com:

>
> "z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
> news:Xns99A2D3E574C1Fzyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
>
> I don't know where my post went from yesterday but anyway, if there's
> ever any parts for an eu2000 that you can't find anywhere you might
> try: www.hondapeninsula.com. So far they've had every part I've
> needed. Lowest prices that I've seen too. It helps a lot to already
> have the part number.
>
> Let me know if you figure out how to rebuild the engine on one of
> these.
>
>
>

thanks

Have you seen one with enough damage to where you had to replace like
cyl? or other major engine parts? The worse i've seen is a valve that
won't seat anymore. I've only worked on 6-7 so far, but some have been
10+ years old with a LOT of use.

Ulysses

2007-09-08, 1:25 pm

"z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
news:Xns999FB06F35BD1zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
> "Ulysses" <eatmyspam@spamola.com/> wrote in news:13d653h9bnooa85
> @corp.supernews.com:
>
> pretty
> pay
> cheap.
> in
> out
> Once
> and
> make
>
> The most common problem I've seen are stuck valves. Especially on a
> generator with a worn belt .. the little rubber teeth come lose and
> sometimes get stuck in the valve. I clean them with sea foam and put
> them backtogether and that usually fixed them. Or gunk builds up in
> there especially if you run them all the time in econo mode. They need
> an itialian tune up from time to time (run wide out) & a shot of sea
> foam down the spark plug hole and the air intake to help break up the
> sludge buildup.
>
> Also done belts .. never had a cam that was bad but now I've got a really
> bad case where it looks like it'll need the whole shebang -- new rings
> and new valve springs.. it blew up -- valve spring broke and chunks went
> down in there... This is my oldest one probably nearly 10 years old now.
>
> Its been sitting on my work bench for a while and i've been slow to get
> to it. Summer -- other things going on

>
> As for Yamaha, I used them for a while, but I had an inverter model that
> was horrible for power. It created all kinds of interference in my
> equipment and when I returned it, they called in the home office and
> found out that was normal (so they said .. good pretty local shop so I
> trust what they said). Thats when I went for a honda. Previous to the
> inverter yamaha I tried I had always used yamaha non-inverter models and
> they were great.
>
> So nothing against yamaha at all.. I bet the new ones they make now kick
> XXX too. But since I've got the eu2000s and the manual and the old parts
> & experience maintaining them etc may as well stick with Honda.
>
> Also have a honda 4 wheeler from the same shop that has been great.
>
> my 02 cents

I've never had the stuck valve problem but then I changed my oil religiously
and sprayed a little carb cleaner in there now and then. My main problem is
worn out cylinders. Apparently they cannot be rebored and Honda does not
sell any larger pistons or undersized piston rods for the eu2000. No short
block or replacement engine either. All you can do is buy a new
cylinder/head, crankshaft, piston, rings, and all that which comes to around
$800. My eu2000 #1 (bought in 2000) has been cannibalized and is now an
eco-throttle inverter generator with no plastic case and a 4 HP engine. My
eu2000 #2 might become a wind generator or something.

I agree that getting the plastic off can be a real PITA. I had to drill out
one of the handle screws (at the top) and repair one of the long 10mm bottom
screw nuts because it was stuck. Honda has succeeded in making screws that
actually tighten with vibration rather than loosen.

I've also had a valve cam that was so worn it was no longer opening the
valves.

If there's ever any parts you can't find anywhere there's a motorcycle shop
in California that seems to have all the available parts in stock. It's
called Honda Peninsula (www.hondapeninsula.com). They sell online.

>
>

Ulysses

2007-09-08, 1:25 pm

"z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
news:Xns99A53CE5A3EFzyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
> "Ulysses" <eatmyspam@spamola.com/> wrote in
> news:13e3uc6pskqt0fd@corp.supernews.com:
>
>
> thanks
>
> Have you seen one with enough damage to where you had to replace like
> cyl? or other major engine parts? The worse i've seen is a valve that
> won't seat anymore. I've only worked on 6-7 so far, but some have been
> 10+ years old with a LOT of use.

I wore out two of them. The first one made it for about 12,000 hours and
the second about 7300 hours. Both need new cylinders and probably new
crankshafts, piston rods, etc. The first one has been cannabalized and is
now an Eco Throttle inverter generator attached to a 4 HP engine. The
second one may become a wind generator or something.

From what I've seen the main problem is the oil splasher gear that is driven
by the crankshaft. It breaks and the cylinder does not get enough
lubrication. Not long afterwards the engine is pretty much shot. This was
the case on both of mine anyway. Honda replaced just about everything on my
second one (under warranty) but did not fix the problem.

2007-09-08, 5:25 pm

"Ulysses" <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:13e5oc5lmplnn2f@corp.supernews.com:

>
> "z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
> news:Xns999FB06F35BD1zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
>
> I've never had the stuck valve problem but then I changed my oil
> religiously and sprayed a little carb cleaner in there now and then.
> My main problem is worn out cylinders. Apparently they cannot be
> rebored and Honda does not sell any larger pistons or undersized
> piston rods for the eu2000. No short block or replacement engine
> either. All you can do is buy a new cylinder/head, crankshaft,
> piston, rings, and all that which comes to around $800. My eu2000 #1
> (bought in 2000) has been cannibalized and is now an eco-throttle
> inverter generator with no plastic case and a 4 HP engine. My eu2000
> #2 might become a wind generator or something.

Interesting. Do you run yours at nearly full load all the time? Or is it
usually in the low range?

I wonder if the added stress of running at full load wears those parts
more, while running at low causes more valve gunk build up .. just a
theory.

All the ones I work on tend to be running 1/2 load or less for most of
their life cycle -- and even the 10 year old one doesn't show any
noticable wear on teh cam or other parts beyond the valve where the
spring broke and deformed it.

2007-09-09, 3:25 am

"Ulysses" <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:13e5oc5lmplnn2f@corp.supernews.com:

> If there's ever any parts you can't find anywhere there's a motorcycle
> shop in California that seems to have all the available parts in
> stock. It's called Honda Peninsula (www.hondapeninsula.com). They
> sell online.

wow

They sell the timing belt for 11 bucks -- they want 18 at my honda shop
(which is about a 100 mile drive away). So its a buck cheaper even with
shipping and I don't have to pay for gas.

nice!

I ordered two for a total $28.15 including shipping

Ulysses

2007-09-09, 5:25 pm

"z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
news:Xns99A64D0EC209zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
> "Ulysses" <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote in
> news:13e5oc5lmplnn2f@corp.supernews.com:
>
>
>
> wow
>
> They sell the timing belt for 11 bucks -- they want 18 at my honda shop
> (which is about a 100 mile drive away). So its a buck cheaper even with
> shipping and I don't have to pay for gas.
>
> nice!

Every part I ordered so far turned out to be less WITH shipping than with my
local authorized dealer. Plus, they always had every item in stock. They
also carry NGK spark plugs for Honda engines. I prefer them in my GX270
engine and I think they were less than $2 ea. at Peninsula. I found this
place after Honda backordered a new valve cam for over two months. Yup,
they had it in stock. It turns out the same cam is used for other engines,
not just the eu2000.

BTW, do you happen to know what model the eu2000 engine is? Honda told me
it was a GX100 but it says GCXXXXX on it and I thought the GX series meant
it was an OHV engine, not OHC.

>
> I ordered two for a total $28.15 including shipping

I can't believe your valve cams don't need to be replaced if the belts are
worn...

Ulysses

2007-09-09, 5:25 pm

"z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
news:Xns99A59731C5CD5zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
> "Ulysses" <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote in
> news:13e5oc5lmplnn2f@corp.supernews.com:
>
>
>
> Interesting. Do you run yours at nearly full load all the time? Or is it
> usually in the low range?

I mainly ran it at about 1/3 most of the time with some full throttle loads
(microwave, etc.) a couple times a day on a regular basis. I'd think the
full loads would help keep out the gunk.

>
> I wonder if the added stress of running at full load wears those parts
> more, while running at low causes more valve gunk build up .. just a
> theory.
>
> All the ones I work on tend to be running 1/2 load or less for most of
> their life cycle -- and even the 10 year old one doesn't show any
> noticable wear on teh cam or other parts beyond the valve where the
> spring broke and deformed it.

On my first one the cam was noticably worn. I can't really attribute the
wear to lack of lubrication because it looks like the oil rides up in the
notches in the belt so the cam was probably well oiled. The cylinder still
looked good but there was a lot of play. I tried honing it and installed
new rings. It was so loose I didn't even need a ring compressor. It was
better for a while.

At first, after giving up on the engine, I tried attaching a pulley to the
rotor/flywheel, removed the piston, rod, belt, etc. and drove it with a 4 HP
engine. It had good output but no Eco Throttle and it did not really like
being belt-driven. Now I have it on the same engine but I retapered the PTO
shaft and installed the eu2000 stator and rotor directly on the shaft. I
probably would have thought of this sooner but in my mind it was a flywheel,
not a gen head. But I got over it. I made a carb manifold from two 1/2"
pipe flanges and a short nipple and installed the eu2000 carb on the 4 HP
engine. Now it works just like an eu2000 but there's no plastic case and it
doesn't have the $130 muffler so it's not as quiet, but it's not loud
either.

Here's some pics of the belt-drive version. I haven't taken any pics of the
direct-drive one yet. It's much more compact.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users.../Index.html.HTM

BTW I had an hour meter on my first eu2000 so those hours are very accurate,
not just a guess.

Ulysses

2007-09-09, 8:25 pm

"z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
news:Xns99A64D0EC209zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
> "Ulysses" <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote in
> news:13e5oc5lmplnn2f@corp.supernews.com:
>
>
>
> wow
>
> They sell the timing belt for 11 bucks -- they want 18 at my honda shop
> (which is about a 100 mile drive away). So its a buck cheaper even with
> shipping and I don't have to pay for gas.
>
> nice!
>
> I ordered two for a total $28.15 including shipping

I should warn you: they have a tendency to call and tell you that your order
is ready for pickup after they have already shipped it. Some kind of
glitch. If you check your order status online it says something
meaningless, I forget what exactly. Something to do with the carrier taking
posession of it.

The only problem I've had with them after several orders was one time I
ordered the wrong part #. I could have returned it but with the restock fee
and return shipping I figure I'll just sell it on eBay and someone will get
a good deal and THEY can pay the shipping ;-)

2007-09-09, 8:25 pm

"Ulysses" <eatmyspam@spamola.com/> wrote in
news:13e8rh06ui0d5ac@corp.supernews.com:

>
> "z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
> news:Xns99A64D0EC209zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
>
> Every part I ordered so far turned out to be less WITH shipping than
> with my local authorized dealer. Plus, they always had every item in
> stock. They also carry NGK spark plugs for Honda engines. I prefer
> them in my GX270 engine and I think they were less than $2 ea. at
> Peninsula. I found this place after Honda backordered a new valve cam
> for over two months. Yup, they had it in stock. It turns out the
> same cam is used for other engines, not just the eu2000.
>
> BTW, do you happen to know what model the eu2000 engine is? Honda
> told me it was a GX100 but it says GCXXXXX on it and I thought the GX
> series meant it was an OHV engine, not OHC.

The shop manual says

Model: GX100
Description code: GCANM

So those are two different things I guess..

>
>
>
> I can't believe your valve cams don't need to be replaced if the belts
> are worn...

Well .. They didn't look worn to me. The lobes were still good and
although you could see evidence of use, they didn't seem to be more than
a MM or so of surface gone, if that. I might be talking out my arse
too.. this is all self tought

Now another thing, these are all used within sheds so they don't get the
bad weather, never get frozen or wet. Dono if that would make a
difference, but its about as nice an environment as a generator can get
to run in.

>
>

stu

2007-09-19, 9:25 am

"Ulysses" <eatmyspam@spamola.com/> wrote in message
news:13d64nvskltrm21@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "stu" <nowhere@justyet.com> wrote in message
> news:46ce0b06$0$19339$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...
> cam)
>
> No. After having several of both kinds of engines I have come to prefer
the
> OHV over the OHC engines. The OHV engines have pushrods instead of a
> plastic cam and belt. In my opinion they are more durable and easier to
> work on. The OHC may be a little quieter and efficient but I run my
> generators a lot and the less I have to work on them the better. The OHC
> engines that I have are not really rebuildable unless you buy a new
> cylinder. The "head" is an integral part of the cylinder so I'm not even
> sure if reboring is an option. On OHV engines such as the Honda GX series
> at least four different sizes of pistons and rings are available so the
> cylinder can (probably) be rebored at least three times. Undersized pison
> rods are also available to account for crankshaft wear.
>
>
I'm a little late, but i was missing something. thanks

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