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Car Alternator used to charge batteries
|
|
| SteveC 2008-03-03, 9:25 am |
| if you could somehow power a car alternator to run, could you charge a bank
of batteries somehow? Like using solar power to power an electric motor,
which in turn, turns the alternator which charges up the batteries?
Time to hit the junkyard for a couple of cheap alternators for an
experiment!!
| |
| Morris Dovey 2008-03-03, 1:25 pm |
| SteveC wrote:
>
> if you could somehow power a car alternator to run, could you charge a bank
> of batteries somehow? Like using solar power to power an electric motor,
> which in turn, turns the alternator which charges up the batteries?
Eh? Too many steps! Just use your solar power to charge the
batteries.
> Time to hit the junkyard for a couple of cheap alternators for an
> experiment!!
Have fun!
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
| |
| Ray King 2008-03-03, 1:25 pm |
| Steve,
Car Alternators can be efficient but a major modification is needed first.
The field is about 3 amps. 3 amps times 14 volts is 42 watts. You have 30-42
watts to satisfy before you can push any current into a battery, so replace
the rotating field ( removing the brushes also ) and replacing the field
with a donut magnet. You may not have quite as much current but you start
off with a much more efficient generator.
Ray
"SteveC" <stevecornick@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:47cc185e$0$4060$9a566e8b@news.aliant.net...
> if you could somehow power a car alternator to run, could you charge a
> bank of batteries somehow? Like using solar power to power an electric
> motor, which in turn, turns the alternator which charges up the batteries?
>
> Time to hit the junkyard for a couple of cheap alternators for an
> experiment!!
>
| |
| bealiba@gmail.com 2008-03-03, 5:25 pm |
| On Mar 4, 2:25 am, "SteveC" <stevecorn...@gmail.com> wrote:
> if you could somehow power a car alternator to run, could you charge a bank
> of batteries somehow? Like using solar power to power an electric motor,
> which in turn, turns the alternator which charges up the batteries?
>
> Time to hit the junkyard for a couple of cheap alternators for an
> experiment!!
Efficiency losses at every point make the idea useless.
| |
| Ulysses 2008-03-03, 5:25 pm |
|
"Ray King" <rayjking@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:23Wyj.16154$pp6.4352@bignews3.bellsouth.net...
> Steve,
> Car Alternators can be efficient but a major modification is needed first.
> The field is about 3 amps. 3 amps times 14 volts is 42 watts. You have
30-42
> watts to satisfy before you can push any current into a battery, so
replace
> the rotating field ( removing the brushes also ) and replacing the field
> with a donut magnet. You may not have quite as much current but you start
> off with a much more efficient generator.
>
> Ray
Do you have any sources for a donut maget that'll fit an alternator? I've
had no luck while searching for one.
>
>
>
> "SteveC" <stevecornick@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:47cc185e$0$4060$9a566e8b@news.aliant.net...
batteries?[color=darkred]
>
>
| |
| Ulysses 2008-03-03, 5:25 pm |
|
"SteveC" <stevecornick@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:47cc185e$0$4060$9a566e8b@news.aliant.net...
> if you could somehow power a car alternator to run, could you charge a
bank
> of batteries somehow? Like using solar power to power an electric motor,
> which in turn, turns the alternator which charges up the batteries?
>
> Time to hit the junkyard for a couple of cheap alternators for an
> experiment!!
>
>
Lot's of people do it with small engines
(http://theepicenter.com/tow02077.html). The problem is that with a
built-in voltage regulator the batteries don't get properly charged. The
automotive type are designed to recharge a car battery that is usually only
used to start the car and rarely discharged very much. But it's a lot
better than nothing.
| |
| Eeyore 2008-03-03, 9:25 pm |
|
SteveC wrote:
> if you could somehow power a car alternator to run, could you charge a bank
> of batteries somehow? Like using solar power to power an electric motor,
> which in turn, turns the alternator which charges up the batteries?
If you have solar electricity you'd use it to charge the batteries directly not
waste power driving mechanical things.
Graham
| |
|
| I saw windgenerator with car alternator that used screenwiper motor for
field exitation.
Screenwiper motor was DC and mech connected on alternator shaft and runned
on same windmill.
s_sus
| |
|
| "SteveC" <stevecornick@gmail.com> wrote in
news:47cc185e$0$4060$9a566e8b@news.aliant.net:
> if you could somehow power a car alternator to run, could you charge a
> bank of batteries somehow? Like using solar power to power an
> electric motor, which in turn, turns the alternator which charges up
> the batteries?
>
> Time to hit the junkyard for a couple of cheap alternators for an
> experiment!!
>
>
keep an eye out for electric motors too. Here is a breakdown of some
common AMETEK motors you might find lying around
http://www.tlgwindpower.com/ametek.htm
Like the others have said, you'd be wasting energy like crazy turning the
alternator with solar power to charge the battery.
see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conservation_of_energy
The trick is to turn the shaft of the alternator using some other form:
wind, water, hook it to a bike or whatever.
As for alternators, the most common type used for power generation are
the GM delco 10 SI (or 12 SI ??). There are PMA kits and one-wire kits
available.
best of luck!
| |
| Ulysses 2008-03-04, 1:25 pm |
|
"z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9A57628435A90zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
> "SteveC" <stevecornick@gmail.com> wrote in
> news:47cc185e$0$4060$9a566e8b@news.aliant.net:
>
>
> keep an eye out for electric motors too. Here is a breakdown of some
> common AMETEK motors you might find lying around
>
> http://www.tlgwindpower.com/ametek.htm
Good link.
>
> Like the others have said, you'd be wasting energy like crazy turning the
> alternator with solar power to charge the battery.
>
> see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conservation_of_energy
>
> The trick is to turn the shaft of the alternator using some other form:
> wind, water, hook it to a bike or whatever.
>
> As for alternators, the most common type used for power generation are
> the GM delco 10 SI (or 12 SI ??). There are PMA kits and one-wire kits
> available.
>
> best of luck!
>
| |
| Ulysses 2008-03-04, 1:25 pm |
|
"Ulysses" <eatmyspam@spamola.com/> wrote in message
news:13soqk8ff2u7ob4@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "SteveC" <stevecornick@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:47cc185e$0$4060$9a566e8b@news.aliant.net...
> bank
motor,[color=darkred]
>
> Lot's of people do it with small engines
> (http://theepicenter.com/tow02077.html). The problem is that with a
> built-in voltage regulator the batteries don't get properly charged. The
> automotive type are designed to recharge a car battery that is usually
only
> used to start the car and rarely discharged very much. But it's a lot
> better than nothing.
>
>
How could I have forgotten to include this one? I guess I thought everyone
already knew about NJ's site.
http://www.neon-john.com/Generator/CBC/CBC_home.htm
| |
| Classic-Car-World Ltd 2008-03-05, 8:25 pm |
| I've looked at this concept before and based on an idea I had seen many
years ago at a US Naval base in Northern Ireland where they had a large (7T)
flywheel spinning a standby generator. In the event of a power loss the
flywheel would drive the standby generator for almost 24 hours thus
maintaining power to the base. The principle was that once the flywheel was
up to speed it would only need kicking every now and again to keep it there
thereby reducing the energy needed to keep it turning.
Applying this to this discussion if you had an alternator driven by the
flywheel which in turn charged a bank of batteries then a smaller electric
motor could be used to maintain the flywheel at speed. This motor could be
powered by a single battery which could be charged by a small wind turbine
or a small array of solar panels. If the single battery was fully charged
they the charging circuit could be switched to the main bank of batteries.
A suitable flywheel might be from an old lister steam engine about 24" in
diameter and perhaps 3 - 4" thick. Granted there would be losses along the
drive mechanism but the momentum in the flywheel would drive the alternator
and reduce the impact of load.
Just a thought
--
Tom
"SteveC" <stevecornick@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:47cc185e$0$4060$9a566e8b@news.aliant.net...
> if you could somehow power a car alternator to run, could you charge a
> bank of batteries somehow? Like using solar power to power an electric
> motor, which in turn, turns the alternator which charges up the batteries?
>
> Time to hit the junkyard for a couple of cheap alternators for an
> experiment!!
>
| |
| clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada 2008-03-06, 3:25 am |
| On Wed, 05 Mar 2008 23:53:15 GMT, "Classic-Car-World Ltd"
<noreply@nospam.com> wrote:
>I've looked at this concept before and based on an idea I had seen many
>years ago at a US Naval base in Northern Ireland where they had a large (7T)
>flywheel spinning a standby generator. In the event of a power loss the
>flywheel would drive the standby generator for almost 24 hours thus
>maintaining power to the base. The principle was that once the flywheel was
>up to speed it would only need kicking every now and again to keep it there
>thereby reducing the energy needed to keep it turning.
>
>Applying this to this discussion if you had an alternator driven by the
>flywheel which in turn charged a bank of batteries then a smaller electric
>motor could be used to maintain the flywheel at speed. This motor could be
>powered by a single battery which could be charged by a small wind turbine
>or a small array of solar panels. If the single battery was fully charged
>they the charging circuit could be switched to the main bank of batteries.
>
>A suitable flywheel might be from an old lister steam engine about 24" in
>diameter and perhaps 3 - 4" thick. Granted there would be losses along the
>drive mechanism but the momentum in the flywheel would drive the alternator
>and reduce the impact of load.
>
>Just a thought
But it won't work.First, it takes a LOT of power to get the flywheel
up to speed.
Second, the amount of power taken out by the alternator needs to be
put back in to keep the flywheeel from slowing down. Due to efficiency
issues, this WILL be more than you are getting out of the alternator -
no matter what technology you use.
Flywheels are EXCELLENT for smoothing out power spikes. If your
alternator only needs to put out high power for short bursts, you can
use a small motor full time instead of a larger motor periodically to
provide the power.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
| |
|
| clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote in
news:rttus31td30blpts3gpfjbj0f156p2h575@4ax.com:
> On Wed, 05 Mar 2008 23:53:15 GMT, "Classic-Car-World Ltd"
> <noreply@nospam.com> wrote:
>
> But it won't work.First, it takes a LOT of power to get the flywheel
> up to speed.
> Second, the amount of power taken out by the alternator needs to be
> put back in to keep the flywheeel from slowing down. Due to efficiency
> issues, this WILL be more than you are getting out of the alternator -
> no matter what technology you use.
Well the fly wheel is just an energy reservoir -- a battery. You can add
energy to it and later on take some out.
| |
|
| On Mar 3, 10:53 am, "Ray King" <rayjk...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Steve,
> Car Alternators can be efficient but a major modification is needed first.
> The field is about 3 amps. 3 amps times 14 volts is 42 watts. You have 30-42
> watts to satisfy before you can push any current into a battery, so replace
> the rotating field ( removing the brushes also ) and replacing the field
> with a donut magnet. You may not have quite as much current but you start
> off with a much more efficient generator.
>
My mileage differs. For three years I've been charging a bank of 10
car batteries with a standard car alternator driven by a small (4KW)
diesel burning waste vegetable oil. The armature current is .7A at
3.3V or a little over 2 watts.
Rather than use the alternator's charge controller, I use my solar
panel charge controller (both for my PV panel and my alternator ...
against the controller manufacturer's guidance ... thus with a void
warranty).
I've done it for three years now. The batteries have a 6 year warranty
and cost $64 each. The alternator came from a junk yard at $10. The
charge controller cost about $175.
Todd Marshall
Plantersville, TX
| |
| markkate@hotmail.com 2008-03-06, 5:25 pm |
|
>
> I've done it for three years now. The batteries have a 6 year warranty
> and cost $64 each. The alternator came from a junk yard at $10. The
> charge controller cost about $175.
>
> Todd Marshall
> Plantersville, TX
You may be interested in my home made voltage regulator for automotive
or marine alternators; http://www.amsterdamhouseboats.nl/voltage_regulator.htm
It's a free build yourself design, not commercial; but please link to
the site, it improves my search engine rankings.
My experiments with Delco and Bosch 80A alternators show full field
current [at 14V] for both at around 5 amps; but full field voltage +
current isn't required to reach full output. It depends on the
armature speed; at higher speeds, less field is required.
At full field voltage [+ current of course] you get 80A at around
2000RPM. there's a lot of torque and problems with belt slippage too.
Efficiency is always pretty bad with these types of alternators, but
gets worse as they get hotter. I find it better to run 2 [or even
more] in parallel at half load each.
My regulator will control multiple alternators simultaneously. I've
had a Delco + a Bosch running in tandem for years.
Regards, Mark Holden
| |
| Ray King 2008-03-06, 5:25 pm |
| Todd,
It works for you but to get up to 14 volts you have wasted about 30 watts
before you begin to push current into your batteries. The auto alternator is
designed to push 100amps or so at 3000 rpm. It takes 3 amps to generate the
amplification factor for 100amps or 100/3 = 33. If you rewind the field with
smaller wire to double the amp turns you could not get the amplification
factor to 66 or even higher. A better way ( if you only need a few amps ) is
to run the negative output of the alternator ( grounded to the fields
negative out put ) back through the field so that the output current is
feeding the field in series. this looses very little energy but you do not
loose the field power. This is easy just float the alternator from ground
and disconnect any regulators and take the positive output from the
alternator from the normal positive output and the negative output is the +
field connection. When you exceed 3 amps you should rewind the field with
larger wire and fewer turns. This can increase the alt output to the limit
of the field brushes. You may have to flash the field if you bang the field
frame and it looses its magnetism.
Ray
"Todd" <Todd@withglee.com> wrote in message
news:877a1de9-1022-4b16-b648-0fb8674a9d6f@60g2000hsy.googlegroups.com...
> On Mar 3, 10:53 am, "Ray King" <rayjk...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> My mileage differs. For three years I've been charging a bank of 10
> car batteries with a standard car alternator driven by a small (4KW)
> diesel burning waste vegetable oil. The armature current is .7A at
> 3.3V or a little over 2 watts.
>
> Rather than use the alternator's charge controller, I use my solar
> panel charge controller (both for my PV panel and my alternator ...
> against the controller manufacturer's guidance ... thus with a void
> warranty).
>
> I've done it for three years now. The batteries have a 6 year warranty
> and cost $64 each. The alternator came from a junk yard at $10. The
> charge controller cost about $175.
>
> Todd Marshall
> Plantersville, TX
| |
| Ray King 2008-03-06, 5:25 pm |
|
"Ray King" <rayjking@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:INZzj.2725$gl5.711@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
> Todd,
>
> It works for you but to get up to 14 volts you have wasted about 30 watts
> before you begin to push current into your batteries. The auto alternator
> is designed to push 100amps or so at 3000 rpm. It takes 3 amps to generate
> the amplification factor for 100amps or 100/3 = 33. If you rewind the
> field with smaller wire to double the amp turns you could get the
> amplification factor to 66 or even higher. A better way ( if you only need
> a few amps ) is to run the negative output of the alternator ( grounded to
> the fields negative out put ) back through the field so that the output
> current is feeding the field in series. this looses very little energy but
> you do not loose the field power. This is easy just float the alternator
> from ground and disconnect any regulators and take the positive output
> from the alternator from the normal positive output and the negative
> output is the + field connection. When you exceed 3 amps you should rewind
> the field with larger wire and fewer turns. This can increase the alt
> output to the limit of the field brushes. You may have to flash the field
> if you bang the field frame and it looses its magnetism.
>
> Ray
>
>
>
>
>
>
> "Todd" <Todd@withglee.com> wrote in message
> news:877a1de9-1022-4b16-b648-0fb8674a9d6f@60g2000hsy.googlegroups.com...
>
>
| |
|
| On Mar 6, 3:46 pm, markk...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
>
> You may be interested in my home made voltage regulator for automotive
> or marine alternators;http://www.amsterdamhouseboats.nl/voltage_regulator.htm
> It's a free build yourself design, not commercial; but please link to
> the site, it improves my search engine rankings.
> My experiments with Delco and Bosch 80A alternators show full field
> current [at 14V] for both at around 5 amps; but full field voltage +
> current isn't required to reach full output. It depends on the
> armature speed; at higher speeds, less field is required.
> At full field voltage [+ current of course] you get 80A at around
> 2000RPM. there's a lot of torque and problems with belt slippage too.
> Efficiency is always pretty bad with these types of alternators, but
> gets worse as they get hotter. I find it better to run 2 [or even
> more] in parallel at half load each.
> My regulator will control multiple alternators simultaneously. I've
> had a Delco + a Bosch running in tandem for years.
> Regards, Mark Holden
What's really needed is a feedback loop from the battery itself. My
commercial solar charge controller takes the voltage out of the
alternator and adjusts the load using MPPT for maximum power transfer
to the battery (limited by battery temperature and phase in the
charging cycle (e.g. bulk, acceptance, float, and occasional
equalize)). I'm working on a circuit that essentially achieves the
same result by adjusting the armature current. This simple circuit
will eliminate the charge controller at a fraction of the cost and
complexity.
/T
| |
|
| On Mar 6, 3:57 pm, "Ray King" <rayjk...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Todd,
>
> It works for you but to get up to 14 volts you have wasted about 30 watts
> before you begin to push current into your batteries.
Big deal. I'm wasting far more than that in heat off the tiny 4KW
diesel. This system was initially required as a backup on cloudy days
for my PV system. However, its cost is about 1/5 that of one PV panel
and puts out more than 10 times the charging power. I will admit that
it is more hassle than the PV source but it is a better alternative
than expanding the PV source and battery bank. The use of free waste
vegetable oil (WVO) makes it so.
> The auto alternator is
> designed to push 100amps or so at 3000 rpm.
I run my diesel at about 1000 rpm. I figure it will last longer at
that speed even though it's not the peak efficiency point on the
torque curve.
> It takes 3 amps to generate the
> amplification factor for 100amps or 100/3 = 33.
I put in 2W and get out 240W with my current settings. That's an
amplification factor of more than 100.
> If you rewind the field with
> smaller wire to double the amp turns you could not get the amplification
> factor to 66 or even higher. A better way ( if you only need a few amps ) is
> to run the negative output of the alternator ( grounded to the fields
> negative out put ) back through the field so that the output current is
> feeding the field in series. this looses very little energy but you do not
> loose the field power.
I'm not turning the alternator with wind or water, thus driving for
such efficiencies is sort of ridiculous in my case.
> This is easy just float the alternator from ground
> and disconnect any regulators and take the positive output from the
> alternator from the normal positive output and the negative output is the +
> field connection. When you exceed 3 amps you should rewind the field with
> larger wire and fewer turns. This can increase the alt output to the limit
> of the field brushes. You may have to flash the field if you bang the field
> frame and it looses its magnetism.
All very interesting, but the total cost of my solution is $10 (the
junk alternator). I'm quite satisfied to leave it at that and get on
to other things.
/T
| |
| Ulysses 2008-03-07, 1:26 pm |
|
<markkate@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:b61799de-60d3-4025-985a-6079ca6e7db8@y77g2000hsy.googlegroups.com...
>
>
> You may be interested in my home made voltage regulator for automotive
> or marine alternators;
http://www.amsterdamhouseboats.nl/voltage_regulator.htm
> It's a free build yourself design, not commercial; but please link to
Thanks for the link to your design but I have a question: you say "It was a
long time ago, and I can't remember the details; but you can clearly see the
little diode bridge that feeds the regulator. Bypass the regulator, so that
the diodes feed the brush directly. I can't remember exactly what I had to
do to bring a wire from other brush out of the case, instead of letting it
earth to the case; but it wasn't very hard." It is not clear to me how to
bypass the built-in regulator. It's simple enough to bring out a wire to
the positive brush to feed the field coil but what do you connect it to?
Full power directly from a battery or to the alternator's positive output?
> the site, it improves my search engine rankings.
> My experiments with Delco and Bosch 80A alternators show full field
> current [at 14V] for both at around 5 amps; but full field voltage +
> current isn't required to reach full output. It depends on the
> armature speed; at higher speeds, less field is required.
> At full field voltage [+ current of course] you get 80A at around
> 2000RPM. there's a lot of torque and problems with belt slippage too.
> Efficiency is always pretty bad with these types of alternators, but
> gets worse as they get hotter. I find it better to run 2 [or even
> more] in parallel at half load each.
> My regulator will control multiple alternators simultaneously. I've
> had a Delco + a Bosch running in tandem for years.
> Regards, Mark Holden
>
>
>
| |
| Ray King 2008-03-07, 5:25 pm |
| The loss in the alternator causes heat to be developed in the diesel. The
diesel engine is only 30% efficient. If you are driving 30 watts that is un
necessary in the load that produces about 100 extra watts in the diesel
engine minimum.
Ray
"Todd" <Todd@withglee.com> wrote in message
news:b135ae47-4801-4421-9362-c7c68a427cf0@m34g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
> On Mar 6, 3:57 pm, "Ray King" <rayjk...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> Big deal. I'm wasting far more than that in heat off the tiny 4KW
> diesel. This system was initially required as a backup on cloudy days
> for my PV system. However, its cost is about 1/5 that of one PV panel
> and puts out more than 10 times the charging power. I will admit that
> it is more hassle than the PV source but it is a better alternative
> than expanding the PV source and battery bank. The use of free waste
> vegetable oil (WVO) makes it so.
>
>
>
> I run my diesel at about 1000 rpm. I figure it will last longer at
> that speed even though it's not the peak efficiency point on the
> torque curve.
>
>
> I put in 2W and get out 240W with my current settings. That's an
> amplification factor of more than 100.
>
>
> I'm not turning the alternator with wind or water, thus driving for
> such efficiencies is sort of ridiculous in my case.
>
>
>
> All very interesting, but the total cost of my solution is $10 (the
> junk alternator). I'm quite satisfied to leave it at that and get on
> to other things.
>
> /T
| |
|
| On Mar 7, 4:38 pm, "Ray King" <rayjk...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> The loss in the alternator causes heat to be developed in the diesel. The
> diesel engine is only 30% efficient. If you are driving 30 watts that is un
> necessary in the load that produces about 100 extra watts in the diesel
> engine minimum.
Combustion causes heat to be developed in the diesel far exceeding any
heat caused by the alternator. The current in the armature causes
negligible (e.g. 2W) load on the diesel. It's the batteries that are
the load. The smaller the load, the less heat the diesel generates ...
i.e. the less work it has to do. With no battery (i.e. charging ) load
(e.g. when the batteries are fully charged), the load due to the
alternator is just 2W. The efficiency of the engine has nothing to do
with anything.
/T
| |
| markkate@hotmail.com 2008-03-08, 8:25 pm |
| On Mar 7, 5:21 pm, "Ulysses" <eatmys...@spamola.com/> wrote:
> <markk...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:b61799de-60d3-4025-985a-6079ca6e7db8@y77g2000hsy.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
>
> http://www.amsterdamhouseboats.nl/voltage_regulator.htm
>
>
> Thanks for the link to your design but I have a question: you say "It was a
> long time ago, and I can't remember the details; but you can clearly see the
> little diode bridge that feeds the regulator. Bypass the regulator, so that
> the diodes feed the brush directly. I can't remember exactly what I had to
> do to bring a wire from other brush out of the case, instead of letting it
> earth to the case; but it wasn't very hard." It is not clear to me how to
> bypass the built-in regulator. It's simple enough to bring out a wire to
> the positive brush to feed the field coil but what do you connect it to?
> Full power directly from a battery or to the alternator's positive output?
>
how to bypass [or remove] the original regulator is different for each
alternator. I've converted a Delco, several Bosch's and a Leese-
Neville. All were very easy.
the positive brush is fed from the excitation diode bridge, not the
battery. The excitation diodes are only used to provide field current,
so protect the battery from accidental discharge. The negative of the
excitation diode bridge is connected to the case [ground, earth,
etc.]
The regulator circuit senses battery voltage through a dedicated wire
["battery sensed", compensates for transmission losses] and adjusts
the current between the negative brush and the case [earth, ground,
negative] to hold the voltage set by the adjustment pot.
If the original regulator in your alternator interrupts the positive,
then you bypass the regulator and connect to the negative brush. if it
interrupts the negative, then you wire my regulator instead of the
original.
I'm pretty sure that the polarity of the field coil can be reversed
without any effect [if that make connections easier], but I haven't
tried it.
Regards, Mark
| |
| Ulysses 2008-03-10, 1:25 pm |
|
<markkate@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:792f81ac-6137-4fb9-b4ed-dc27170bc730@n75g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
> On Mar 7, 5:21 pm, "Ulysses" <eatmys...@spamola.com/> wrote:
news:b61799de-60d3-4025-985a-6079ca6e7db8@y77g2000hsy.googlegroups.com...[color=darkred]
warranty[color=darkred]
was a[color=darkred]
the[color=darkred]
that[color=darkred]
to[color=darkred]
it[color=darkred]
to[color=darkred]
to[color=darkred]
output?[color=darkred]
> how to bypass [or remove] the original regulator is different for each
> alternator. I've converted a Delco, several Bosch's and a Leese-
> Neville. All were very easy.
> the positive brush is fed from the excitation diode bridge, not the
> battery. The excitation diodes are only used to provide field current,
> so protect the battery from accidental discharge. The negative of the
> excitation diode bridge is connected to the case [ground, earth,
> etc.]
> The regulator circuit senses battery voltage through a dedicated wire
> ["battery sensed", compensates for transmission losses] and adjusts
> the current between the negative brush and the case [earth, ground,
> negative] to hold the voltage set by the adjustment pot.
> If the original regulator in your alternator interrupts the positive,
> then you bypass the regulator and connect to the negative brush. if it
> interrupts the negative, then you wire my regulator instead of the
> original.
> I'm pretty sure that the polarity of the field coil can be reversed
> without any effect [if that make connections easier], but I haven't
> tried it.
> Regards, Mark
>
>
Thanks!
| |
| Ray King 2008-03-12, 1:25 pm |
| Todd,
Your voltage regulator circuit could use a 3 amp 100v ( fast recovery would
be preferrable but not absolutely necessary because you are not "hard
switching" ) to clamp the energy that is stored in the field coil. When your
2N3773 transistor turns off the voltage jumps up to the avalanche the
transistor. Very few transistors can stand this for very long. By adding the
diode you will also notice the 2N3773 runs cooler when the voltage is at the
regulator set point. The cathode of the diode goes to the plus field
connection and the anode to the 2N3773 collector. Because your regulator is
mostly running in the linear mode the voltage across the 2N3773 does not see
a lots of voltage. However if a heavy load is removed ( similar to load dump
in autos ) the above condition occurs and your 2N3773 shorts out.
Ray
"Todd" <Todd@withglee.com> wrote in message
news:3a0350be-5ab2-4606-bcf6-97e05d8b4681@b64g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
> On Mar 7, 4:38 pm, "Ray King" <rayjk...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> Combustion causes heat to be developed in the diesel far exceeding any
> heat caused by the alternator. The current in the armature causes
> negligible (e.g. 2W) load on the diesel. It's the batteries that are
> the load. The smaller the load, the less heat the diesel generates ...
> i.e. the less work it has to do. With no battery (i.e. charging ) load
> (e.g. when the batteries are fully charged), the load due to the
> alternator is just 2W. The efficiency of the engine has nothing to do
> with anything.
>
> /T
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