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Home > Archive > Alternative Power sources > March 2008 > Specs on an Electric Vehicle motor?
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Specs on an Electric Vehicle motor?
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| BeerMakerGuy 2008-03-19, 9:25 am |
| I found a Baldor 10 hp DC motor used for $99.00 the specs say 150v,
will that work for an EV? 10 car batteries would be awfully close to
150.
Any thoughts? Ideas?
Thanks for your input!
Gary
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| Vaughn Simon 2008-03-19, 9:25 am |
|
"BeerMakerGuy" <sparrows_ink@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:evn1u3918lg5tcvl2dmbfmeq94e1di84h7@4ax.com...
>I found a Baldor 10 hp DC motor used for $99.00 the specs say 150v,
> will that work for an EV? 10 car batteries would be awfully close to
> 150.
10 "car" batteries would not be a good choice. Car batteries are designed
for starting engines. Continual deep discharge of a car battery will ruin it.
You would need 10 deep discharge batteries.
Before you rush into the job, read up a bit on the care and feeding of
batteries. Building or buying a proper 150 volt battery charger will be an
important (and potentially expensive) part of the project.
Vaughn
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| Anthony Matonak 2008-03-19, 9:25 am |
| BeerMakerGuy wrote:
> I found a Baldor 10 hp DC motor used for $99.00 the specs say 150v,
> will that work for an EV? 10 car batteries would be awfully close to
> 150.
> Any thoughts? Ideas?
You might find 10 hp a little underpowered for a car. Most cars
take around 20 hp just to maintain speed on a highway. Here is
a link to the motors one outfit sells for EV conversions. You'll
note that they all have a continuous ratings over 20 hp.
http://www.electroauto.com/catalog/dcmotors.shtml
Anthony
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| Eeyore 2008-03-19, 1:25 pm |
|
BeerMakerGuy wrote:
> I found a Baldor 10 hp DC motor used for $99.00 the specs say 150v,
> will that work for an EV?
A very slow one perhaps !
Graham
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| Neon John 2008-03-19, 1:25 pm |
| On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 05:46:13 -0400, BeerMakerGuy <sparrows_ink@yahoo.com> wrote:
>I found a Baldor 10 hp DC motor used for $99.00 the specs say 150v,
>will that work for an EV? 10 car batteries would be awfully close to
>150.
No. That's a shunt wound motor. Traction motors are series wound. Series motors
can supply many times their ratings for a short period of time. Ten times is not
uncommon. That kind of overload capability is necessary to achieve any measure of
decent acceleration.
The other major feature of a series motor is that the lighter loaded it is, the
faster it goes for a given voltage. This is what allows an EV to achieve higher
speeds on level or gently downhill sloping terrain. A shunt motor turns a fixed RPM
for any given voltage and field excitation.
Shunt traction motors (called SEPEX or Separately Excited) can somewhat overcome that
with field weakening. The difference between a SEPEX traction motor and that Baldor
industrial motor is that a SEPEX motor has an armature and brushes heavy enough to
handle the high current that traction applications demand. That Baldor doesn't.
John
--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
Vegetarian - Indian word for "poor hunter".
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| clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada 2008-03-19, 5:25 pm |
| On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 14:30:50 +0000, Eeyore
<rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>BeerMakerGuy wrote:
>
>
>A very slow one perhaps !
>
>Graham
Depends how heavy the EV is.
the motor I put most of the miles on my FIAT with was rated at 8HP at
24 volts - I ran it at 48. Would do 50mph.
If it is a series wound motor, a 10HP nominal is pretty decent - and
at 150 volts that's ony what, 50 amps? 20 6v golf cart batteries
(GC2) or 10 12 volt deep cycles would give you pretty good range.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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| BeerMakerGuy 2008-03-19, 8:25 pm |
| On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 14:01:56 -0400, Neon John <no@never.com> wrote:
>On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 05:46:13 -0400, BeerMakerGuy <sparrows_ink@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>No. That's a shunt wound motor. Traction motors are series wound. Series motors
>can supply many times their ratings for a short period of time. Ten times is not
>uncommon. That kind of overload capability is necessary to achieve any measure of
>decent acceleration.
>
>The other major feature of a series motor is that the lighter loaded it is, the
>faster it goes for a given voltage. This is what allows an EV to achieve higher
>speeds on level or gently downhill sloping terrain. A shunt motor turns a fixed RPM
>for any given voltage and field excitation.
>
>Shunt traction motors (called SEPEX or Separately Excited) can somewhat overcome that
>with field weakening. The difference between a SEPEX traction motor and that Baldor
>industrial motor is that a SEPEX motor has an armature and brushes heavy enough to
>handle the high current that traction applications demand. That Baldor doesn't.
>
>John
So an 8 to 10 hp series wound motor would be what I'm after?
The vehicle would be scratch built from the ground up, probably 3
wheels with 2 in front one in back. Driven by the one rear wheel.
I was given 4 Solec solar panels, 100 watts at 17 volts each. I was
thinking about using them to charge the battery when the car is
parked.
Gary
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| Neon John 2008-03-19, 8:25 pm |
| On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 18:27:33 -0400, BeerMakerGuy <sparrows_ink@yahoo.com> wrote:
>So an 8 to 10 hp series wound motor would be what I'm after?
>The vehicle would be scratch built from the ground up, probably 3
>wheels with 2 in front one in back. Driven by the one rear wheel.
>I was given 4 Solec solar panels, 100 watts at 17 volts each. I was
>thinking about using them to charge the battery when the car is
>parked.
>Gary
I can't recall seeing a series traction motor with a HP rating. I know that the one
on my old Citicar was known as a "6 HP" motor but the nameplate didn't say that.
Most all traction motors are referenced by frame size. My little Citi motor was a 6"
frame. A 9" is popular for light weight low performance EVs. 11 to 13" motors for
higher performance.
The main traction motor from a large forklift is a good choice. I recently picked up
an 11" frame from one that was being scrapped. I'll have to upgrade the brushes and
holders to withstand the extended high current operation characteristic of an EV but
otherwise it will be a great motor. It has a nominal voltage rating of 48 volts but
I'll be running it on a 144 volt pack. That's typical.
Advanced DC motors makes most of the motors that people doing EV conversions use. ADC
makes all sorts of DC motors but they make a line of traction motors specifically for
EVs.
Prestolite is another good brand, though you don't seem them too much anymore. A lot
of folks used to use Prestolite aircraft generators - 28 volt, 400 amp rating - for
EVs but they're not very efficient in the motor application, making about as much
heat as mechanical power.
You might consider joining the Electric Vehicle Discussion List (EVDL). I think
someone posted the URL. It's probably the best list of that nature on the net. There
are a few fruitcakes there that you have to learn to ignore but other than that it's
a great list.
There's a guy on the list from Washington state who owns an electric motor shop who
has gotten into EVs, particularly high performance EVs, in a big way. I'm having a
senior moment and can't recall his name but he's quite active so you can't miss him.
I moonlight at an electric motor shop here in TN but I can't get the owner the least
bit interested in EVs. Unfortunately.
I'm just starting work on a new EV. This one is going to be based around a Chevy S10
mini-truck. That seems to be one of the best conversion vehicles because of the
plentiful room for batteries and suspension capable of handling the weight. It'll be
at least 144 volts and will use a homemade controller.
It will be a semi-series-hybrid, with a generator in the bed. I'm not an eco-nazi
and don't hate gas engines, oil companies and all that rot. I just don't like
feeding the gas pump. I should be able to do most of my running around on pure
battery power, with the generator being used for longer trips. I'm in the
"collecting parts" stage right now.
Re: charging the batteries with solar cells. Do the math before heading far down
that lane. A homemade EV will achieve a fuel economy in the range of 250-400
watt-hours per mile. Most end up closer to 400. If illuminated continuously to your
cells' rated output, 400 watts, it would take them about an hour of charging per mile
driven, assuming 100% efficiency. That doesn't work too well. Even at fairly high
rates, utility power for an EV is hard to beat, price-wise.
Re: three wheel configuration. Research the Corbin Sparrow. It was made just as you
describe and was a slick little "motorcycle" car. It had a few serious problems that
kept it from being a commercial success but all in all, a nice setup. I think it
used a 9" ADC motor.
John
--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
Multitasking: Reading in the bathroom!
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| clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada 2008-03-19, 9:25 pm |
| On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 18:59:12 -0400, Neon John <no@never.com> wrote:
>On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 18:27:33 -0400, BeerMakerGuy <sparrows_ink@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>I can't recall seeing a series traction motor with a HP rating. I know that the one
>on my old Citicar was known as a "6 HP" motor but the nameplate didn't say that.
Most have an amp rating at a nominal voltage. With typical
efficiencies think 1 HP per kW.
>
>Most all traction motors are referenced by frame size. My little Citi motor was a 6"
>frame. A 9" is popular for light weight low performance EVs. 11 to 13" motors for
>higher performance.
The larger the armature the better the torque, but there are 7 inchers
that put out more power than other 9 inchers.
>
>The main traction motor from a large forklift is a good choice. I recently picked up
>an 11" frame from one that was being scrapped. I'll have to upgrade the brushes and
>holders to withstand the extended high current operation characteristic of an EV but
>otherwise it will be a great motor. It has a nominal voltage rating of 48 volts but
>I'll be running it on a 144 volt pack. That's typical.
But for the OP's 3 wheeler the main forklift motor is GROSS overkill.
>
>Advanced DC motors makes most of the motors that people doing EV conversions use. ADC
>makes all sorts of DC motors but they make a line of traction motors specifically for
>EVs.
>
>Prestolite is another good brand, though you don't seem them too much anymore. A lot
>of folks used to use Prestolite aircraft generators - 28 volt, 400 amp rating - for
>EVs but they're not very efficient in the motor application, making about as much
>heat as mechanical power.
Funny, my A/C generator didn't get uncomfortably warm, and it worked
pretty hard. Not as efficient as modern pupose built motors, but
definitely a lot better than 50%.
>
>You might consider joining the Electric Vehicle Discussion List (EVDL). I think
>someone posted the URL. It's probably the best list of that nature on the net. There
>are a few fruitcakes there that you have to learn to ignore but other than that it's
>a great list.
>
>There's a guy on the list from Washington state who owns an electric motor shop who
>has gotten into EVs, particularly high performance EVs, in a big way. I'm having a
>senior moment and can't recall his name but he's quite active so you can't miss him.
>
>I moonlight at an electric motor shop here in TN but I can't get the owner the least
>bit interested in EVs. Unfortunately.
>
>I'm just starting work on a new EV. This one is going to be based around a Chevy S10
>mini-truck. That seems to be one of the best conversion vehicles because of the
>plentiful room for batteries and suspension capable of handling the weight. It'll be
>at least 144 volts and will use a homemade controller.
>
>It will be a semi-series-hybrid, with a generator in the bed. I'm not an eco-nazi
>and don't hate gas engines, oil companies and all that rot. I just don't like
>feeding the gas pump. I should be able to do most of my running around on pure
>battery power, with the generator being used for longer trips. I'm in the
>"collecting parts" stage right now.
>
>Re: charging the batteries with solar cells. Do the math before heading far down
>that lane. A homemade EV will achieve a fuel economy in the range of 250-400
>watt-hours per mile. Most end up closer to 400. If illuminated continuously to your
>cells' rated output, 400 watts, it would take them about an hour of charging per mile
>driven, assuming 100% efficiency. That doesn't work too well. Even at fairly high
>rates, utility power for an EV is hard to beat, price-wise.
>
>Re: three wheel configuration. Research the Corbin Sparrow. It was made just as you
>describe and was a slick little "motorcycle" car. It had a few serious problems that
>kept it from being a commercial success but all in all, a nice setup. I think it
>used a 9" ADC motor.
>
>John
"tadpole" trike configuration - very stable.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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| Aptera is a 3 wheeler electric from Carlsbad California
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| Eeyore 2008-03-20, 3:25 am |
|
BobG wrote:
> Aptera is a 3 wheeler electric from Carlsbad California
Daft little thing it is too.
Graham
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| BeerMakerGuy 2008-03-20, 9:25 am |
| I appreciate all of the input, I actually learned a bit from this
exchange.
At the very least, it got me going in a "direction". LOL
Gary
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