| Author |
bypassing low oil warning EU2000i
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| I have a honda eu2000i with a bad oil sensor. I just put it back together
again after fixing a bad timing belt and hell if I'm going to take it all
back apart to see whats going on with the sensor.
Anyone have a quick and clever way of disabling that switch?
cheers
-z
BTW: FINALLY got the parts I need for the hydro system so its going into
phase three of testing this weekend!
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| Pete C. 2008-02-08, 3:25 am |
| z wrote:
>
> I have a honda eu2000i with a bad oil sensor. I just put it back together
> again after fixing a bad timing belt and hell if I'm going to take it all
> back apart to see whats going on with the sensor.
>
> Anyone have a quick and clever way of disabling that switch?
>
> cheers
>
> -z
>
> BTW: FINALLY got the parts I need for the hydro system so its going into
> phase three of testing this weekend!
According to the service manual, the yellow wire from the oil level
switch goes up to a 6 pole connector, and the other lead from the oil
level switch (undetermined color) goes to a screw/bolt on the engine
block. Since the switch closes the connection to ground when the oil
level is low you just need to interrupt the circuit. Disconnecting the
switch ground lead from the block and insulating it would do the job. It
appears that the yellow wire may go through a single pole connector
before reaching the 6 pole one so that may be another easy place to
disconnect it. I'd look at my EU2Ki, but it's out in the shop and it's
cold out.
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| andre_54005@yahoo.com 2008-02-08, 1:25 pm |
| On Feb 7, 9:57 pm, "Pete C." <aux3.DO...@snet.net> wrote:
> z wrote:
>
> Since the switch closes the connection to ground when the oil
> level is low you just need to interrupt the circuit. Disconnecting the
If that is true then Honda engineers need to be slapped up side the
head.
Emergency shut down circuits should be normally closed so when a wire
breaks someplace the system faults.
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| Ulysses 2008-02-08, 1:25 pm |
| Simply disconnecting the yellow wire ought to do it. Before taking the
engine apart again I suggest you change the oil and give it some time. I
had one get stuck and after a while it loosened up and started working
again. What does your oil look like after 20 hours or so? Is it still
translucent or black and yucky?
"z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9A3DB7D73DF72zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
> I have a honda eu2000i with a bad oil sensor. I just put it back together
> again after fixing a bad timing belt and hell if I'm going to take it all
> back apart to see whats going on with the sensor.
>
> Anyone have a quick and clever way of disabling that switch?
>
> cheers
>
> -z
>
> BTW: FINALLY got the parts I need for the hydro system so its going into
> phase three of testing this weekend!
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| Pete C. 2008-02-08, 1:25 pm |
| andre_54005@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> On Feb 7, 9:57 pm, "Pete C." <aux3.DO...@snet.net> wrote:
>
> If that is true then Honda engineers need to be slapped up side the
> head.
> Emergency shut down circuits should be normally closed so when a wire
> breaks someplace the system faults.
That's true on commercial / industrial grade stuff, but for portable
generators, it's always just been a switch to ground out the ignition
circuit.
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| "Ulysses" <eatmyspam@spamola.com/> wrote in
news:13qp28nb7oof0ac@corp.supernews.com:
> Simply disconnecting the yellow wire ought to do it. Before taking
> the engine apart again I suggest you change the oil and give it some
> time. I had one get stuck and after a while it loosened up and
> started working again. What does your oil look like after 20 hours or
> so? Is it still translucent or black and yucky?
>
Dono. This generator has been broken for quite a while. Just getting it
back into shape.
Yeah .. I got stupid and put all the plastic back on and was hoping there
was something up in front you could disconnect real easy.
To get to those wires you have to tear it down again, take off the carb
and so on.
I'll get to it today.. was just hoping someone would have a neat trick
that didn't take a total tear down 
cheers
-z
>
> "z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
> news:Xns9A3DB7D73DF72zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
>
>
>
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|
| "Pete C." <aux3.DOH.4@snet.net> wrote in
news:47ABD311.5F45654D@snet.net:
> z wrote:
>
> According to the service manual, the yellow wire from the oil level
> switch goes up to a 6 pole connector, and the other lead from the oil
> level switch (undetermined color) goes to a screw/bolt on the engine
> block. Since the switch closes the connection to ground when the oil
> level is low you just need to interrupt the circuit. Disconnecting the
> switch ground lead from the block and insulating it would do the job.
> It appears that the yellow wire may go through a single pole connector
> before reaching the 6 pole one so that may be another easy place to
> disconnect it. I'd look at my EU2Ki, but it's out in the shop and it's
> cold out.
COol. Yeah I figured that much out.. was hoping someone had a neat trick
or a wire up front you could clip that didn't require taking the damn
thing apart again .
I just put all the plastic back on and like an idiot never tested it
To even get to that wire you have to take it all the way down, pull the
carb and so on. Now that i've done that i'll run the diagnostics and see
if its the switch or a wiring problem. I do have another switch so maybe
i'll bite the bullet and just fix it right
cheers
-z
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| Pete C. 2008-02-08, 8:25 pm |
| z wrote:
>
> "Pete C." <aux3.DOH.4@snet.net> wrote in
> news:47ABD311.5F45654D@snet.net:
>
>
> COol. Yeah I figured that much out.. was hoping someone had a neat trick
> or a wire up front you could clip that didn't require taking the damn
> thing apart again .
>
> I just put all the plastic back on and like an idiot never tested it
>
> To even get to that wire you have to take it all the way down, pull the
> carb and so on. Now that i've done that i'll run the diagnostics and see
> if its the switch or a wiring problem. I do have another switch so maybe
> i'll bite the bullet and just fix it right
>
> cheers
>
> -z
Dig out your pin extractor and remove the pin with the yellow wire from
the 6 pole connector which should be accessible.
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| z <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in[color=darkred]
>
> Yeah .. I got stupid and put all the plastic back on and was hoping
> there was something up in front you could disconnect real easy.
>
> To get to those wires you have to tear it down again, take off the
> carb and so on.
>
> I'll get to it today.. was just hoping someone would have a neat trick
> that didn't take a total tear down
>
> cheers
>
> -z
>
it down-
all the honda small egine oil switches I have worked on have a float, a
magnet and a reed switch to make up the assembly. When the engine sheds a
lot of iron particles due to wear and if the oil is not changed frequently
enough, or if the oil is changed in an improper manner (oil should ALWAYS
be changed hot), iron particles build up and block the movement of the
moving float. Sometimes a switch can be repaired by a thorough cleaning of
the offending buildup, saving the cost of a switch. Be sure to test the
switch by immersing in oil and cycle a few times so you can trust it, this
switch may not save the engine if it does not work right. Some Honda
manuals tell you to do a spark test every time you change the oil, when the
oil has been drained, the ignition should not spark. Good idea, and I do
it at the shop I work at.
Scott
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| Ulysses 2008-02-09, 5:25 pm |
|
"z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9A3E767514470zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
> "Ulysses" <eatmyspam@spamola.com/> wrote in
> news:13qp28nb7oof0ac@corp.supernews.com:
>
>
> Dono. This generator has been broken for quite a while. Just getting it
> back into shape.
>
> Yeah .. I got stupid and put all the plastic back on and was hoping there
> was something up in front you could disconnect real easy.
I have one that's intact. I'll take a look and see. I don't remember
having to take it all apart just to get at that one yellow wire but maybe
you do...
I hope you also replaced the oil splash (so-called governor gear) while you
had it apart because that is what kills those engines. When it breaks the
piston/cylinder does not have long to live.
>
> To get to those wires you have to tear it down again, take off the carb
> and so on.
>
> I'll get to it today.. was just hoping someone would have a neat trick
> that didn't take a total tear down
>
> cheers
>
> -z
>
>
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|
| "Ulysses" <eatmyspam@spamola.com/> wrote in
news:13qsbgc6clbsl6d@corp.supernews.com:
>
> "z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
> news:Xns9A3E767514470zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
>
> I have one that's intact. I'll take a look and see. I don't remember
> having to take it all apart just to get at that one yellow wire but
> maybe you do...
>
> I hope you also replaced the oil splash (so-called governor gear)
> while you had it apart because that is what kills those engines. When
> it breaks the piston/cylinder does not have long to live.
>
>
Yes that turns out to be what was wrong with this one.. it was tiny
chunks of plastic in there.. and it tore up the timing belt at the same
time.
Dono if it will ever run again. I kind of set it aside for a bit since
this is hydro-electric weekend!
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| Ulysses 2008-02-11, 1:25 pm |
|
"z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9A3FB725E47C5zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
> "Ulysses" <eatmyspam@spamola.com/> wrote in
> news:13qsbgc6clbsl6d@corp.supernews.com:
>
>
> Yes that turns out to be what was wrong with this one.. it was tiny
> chunks of plastic in there.. and it tore up the timing belt at the same
> time.
>
Good, but on both of mine once that oil splasher broke the cylinder was
ruined and a new cylinder is well over $300. Good luck. For my current
purposes a $200 Chinese 2000 watt generator is better anyway. If you happen
to find out if those cylinders can somehow be rebored AND you find an
oversize piston and rings that will fit please let me know.
I looked and like you said it appears you have to at least take the shroud
off of the cooling fan and flywheel/rotor to get to that yellow wire :-(
One more thought: I somehow mixed up the low-oil wire and spark sensor wires
and got a Low Oil warning. You might want to double-check that when you
have it apart. The connectors (single wire type) are the same.
> Dono if it will ever run again. I kind of set it aside for a bit since
> this is hydro-electric weekend!
Cool. I'm going to go read your new post now. I'm still trying to find a
big steel drum so I can try to run my genny from wood chips.
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| "Ulysses" <eatmyspam@spamola.com/> wrote in
news:13r0snfdrr4d8c6@corp.supernews.com:
>
> "z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
> news:Xns9A3FB725E47C5zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
>
> Good, but on both of mine once that oil splasher broke the cylinder
> was ruined and a new cylinder is well over $300. Good luck. For my
> current purposes a $200 Chinese 2000 watt generator is better anyway.
> If you happen to find out if those cylinders can somehow be rebored
> AND you find an oversize piston and rings that will fit please let me
> know.
>
> I looked and like you said it appears you have to at least take the
> shroud off of the cooling fan and flywheel/rotor to get to that yellow
> wire :-(
Yeah which after I did that it still wouldn't start. I ended up tearing
it all the way down and replacing the oil switch with a used one I had --
but tested it first for sure and it worked.
I got it running again after that -- so thats nice it wasn't ruined by
the splasher failure.
>
> One more thought: I somehow mixed up the low-oil wire and spark sensor
> wires and got a Low Oil warning. You might want to double-check that
> when you have it apart. The connectors (single wire type) are the
> same.
I see how that could happen. I hadn't taken any of the wires off. I try
to avoid that because I know i suck at wiring.
>
>
> Cool. I'm going to go read your new post now. I'm still trying to
> find a big steel drum so I can try to run my genny from wood chips.
That I want to see.
Too bad scrap prices are so high, a lot of steel is getting sold. What
about something from a brewery or milk parlor?
Or one of those big propane tanks?
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| Ulysses 2008-02-15, 1:26 pm |
|
"z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9A43E40C8B3FCzyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
> "Ulysses" <eatmyspam@spamola.com/> wrote in
> news:13r0snfdrr4d8c6@corp.supernews.com:
>
>
> That I want to see.
>
> Too bad scrap prices are so high, a lot of steel is getting sold. What
> about something from a brewery or milk parlor?
>
> Or one of those big propane tanks?
>
>
I think I need something with a removable top that can be replaced an will
seal well, that is if I understand all of the instructions for wood
gasifiers. I can't even find a steel 5 gallon paint can anywhere (probably
too small anyway). I thought about using a propane tank but it would be a
lot more work. I've asked all over town for steel drums and someone
directed me to the auto salvage place. When I asked one guy he acted like
'why the hell would they have one of those' and then the other guy said "we
just sold the last one." I guess I'm getting closer. Hmmm, I didn't try
the paint store yet...
>
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| "Ulysses" <eatmyspam@spamola.com/> wrote in
news:13rbf4dadej7bb0@corp.supernews.com:
>
> "z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
> news:Xns9A43E40C8B3FCzyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
>
> I think I need something with a removable top that can be replaced an
> will seal well, that is if I understand all of the instructions for
> wood gasifiers. I can't even find a steel 5 gallon paint can anywhere
> (probably too small anyway). I thought about using a propane tank but
> it would be a lot more work. I've asked all over town for steel drums
> and someone directed me to the auto salvage place. When I asked one
> guy he acted like 'why the hell would they have one of those' and then
> the other guy said "we just sold the last one." I guess I'm getting
> closer. Hmmm, I didn't try the paint store yet...
Dono where you live, but you can buy burn barrels around here for about
20 bucks. Just old steel drums -- or we'd get them from a boat maker who
bought 55 gal drums of fiber glass resin. Ask around any industrial
place or even a garage that gets oil or grease in 55 gal drums maybe.
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| Ulysses 2008-02-16, 1:25 pm |
|
"z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9A457644CFF7zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
> "Ulysses" <eatmyspam@spamola.com/> wrote in
> news:13rbf4dadej7bb0@corp.supernews.com:
>
>
> Dono where you live, but you can buy burn barrels around here for about
> 20 bucks. Just old steel drums -- or we'd get them from a boat maker who
> bought 55 gal drums of fiber glass resin. Ask around any industrial
> place or even a garage that gets oil or grease in 55 gal drums maybe.
Thanks for the tips. I can't find any scrap metal places and such around
here. The nearest town is basically a giant mobile home park and the
tallest building is two stories.
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|
| "Ulysses" <eatmyspam@spamola.com/> wrote in
news:13qsbgc6clbsl6d@corp.supernews.com:
>
> "z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
> news:Xns9A3E767514470zyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
>
> I have one that's intact. I'll take a look and see. I don't remember
> having to take it all apart just to get at that one yellow wire but
> maybe you do...
>
> I hope you also replaced the oil splash (so-called governor gear)
> while you had it apart because that is what kills those engines. When
> it breaks the piston/cylinder does not have long to live.
Say do you have the part number for that oil splasher? I got another
dead one in and can't for the life of me find that number.
cheers
-z
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| Ulysses 2008-04-03, 1:26 pm |
|
"z" <z@yada.yada.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9A74BF0E9C63Czyadayadayada@216.196.97.131...
> "Ulysses" <eatmyspam@spamola.com/> wrote in
> news:13qsbgc6clbsl6d@corp.supernews.com:
>
>
>
> Say do you have the part number for that oil splasher? I got another
> dead one in and can't for the life of me find that number.
>
> cheers
>
> -z
Sorry, but I can't seem to find my receipt--I found the old part but I
don't see any number on it. If I come across it soon I'll let you know. I
think you might be able to look it up at Honda Penninsula but verify the
number before ordering!
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