quote:

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>I am looking to run the following throughout the house:
>
>1. Coax for cable tv.
>2. Coax satellite tv.
>3. Cat5 for an analog phone line.
>4. Cat5 for Voice-over-IP phone line.
>5. Cat6 for Ethernet/Internet
>
>I'm planning it so that all the cabling comes into a control center located on the 2nd floor. The house is a two story house and it was built in 2000.
>
>My questions are:
>
>1. What is the best way to run wire from the attic through
> the 2nd floor ending up at the bottom floor. Do I make 1 ft.
> diameter holes in the walls to drill between floors?
>
>2. How do I navigate around/through firebreaks located on the
> exterior walls?
>
>3. Would you recommend that I run 1" - 2" diameter pvc piping so that
> I can run the wires in the piping. What this allows is for
> me to add or remove wiring easily at a later time. My only concern
> is that I will weaken the structure of the house by running pvc
> through the walls and between floors.
>
>4. In terms of the list above, should I add anymore type of wiring?
> I was thinking of an intercom.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Matt

quote:

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> 2. Coax satellite tv.

quote:

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> 3. Cat5 for an analog phone line.

quote:

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> 4. Cat5 for Voice-over-IP phone line.
> 5. Cat6 for Ethernet/Internet

quote:

---

> 1. What is the best way to run wire from the attic through
> the 2nd floor ending up at the bottom floor. Do I make 1 ft.
> diameter holes in the walls to drill between floors?

quote:

---

> 2. How do I navigate around/through firebreaks located on the
> exterior walls?

quote:

---

> 3. Would you recommend that I run 1" - 2" diameter pvc piping so that
> I can run the wires in the piping. What this allows is for
> me to add or remove wiring easily at a later time. My only concern
> is that I will weaken the structure of the house by running pvc
> through the walls and between floors.

quote:

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> 4. In terms of the list above, should I add anymore type of wiring?
> I was thinking of an intercom.

quote:

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>
>
> Bear in mind that some satellite systems can use more than a single wire. A
> dual-tuner DirecTV unit requires two links to the multiswitch/dish.
>
> Sometimes it's 'better' to put the AV stuff in one place and distribute it's
> signals internally instead.
>
>
>
>
> Which allows for up to 4 POTS lines.
>
>
>
>
> Why both? Granted, if you want two ethernet devices in each location then
> you could do this. You could also use a switch at that location. But if
> you want a single wall connection for each device then having both is a good
> idea.
>
>
>
>
> One FOOT? How much are wire you thinking of running?
>
>
>
>
> Check with your local building inspection department.
>
>
>
>
> No more so than what regular plumbing does. You have to take care when
> putting holes in structural members of a house. Too many holes in a joist
> is a bad thing. Not all walls are structurally significant.
>
>
>
>
> Intercom systems will generally run over anything. But their placement is
> usually near the entrance ot a room, not where you'd usually put TV, phone
> or computer jacks.
>

quote:

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>wkearney99 wrote:
>
>Well I'm planning to have a junction box that has two inputs (cable and satellite)
>and have a splitter for the satellite to all the rooms. Thanks for the tip on
>running two satellite lines because of dual tuners on the satellite box. I will
>plan to have 6 plugs at the outlet. I can label one cable, one satellite, and
>one satellite/cable and if if a particular tv needs two inputs either from satellite
>or cable and can just switch one cable over to the satellite/cable. I also could
>use a splitter at the outlet and just have two lines coming from the splitter into
>the dual tuner.
>
>Two separate lines for phone, one line will be a phone line so that I could still
>dial 911 in case the power goes out. The other will be dedicated for voip. The
>voip line will plug into a Linksys VoIP adapter. Granted for the voip line, I only
>need 2 of the 8 conductors, but you never know ...
>

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>The one foot diameter hole is for an access hole so that I could drill a 1"-2" hole
>between the walls to the next floor. For example I would cut out a 1ft diameter
>hole out of the drywall at the base of the wall. Then I could use a spade bit
>to make the 1" - 2" hole to run the pvc piping to run the cables ...
>
>There are drops that I want to put on the exterior walls that reach to the bottom
>floor, and these are the walls I am most concerned about ...
>
>I'll need to find where are the joices in my house and avoid getting near them. I guess
>my next step is to find the building plans for my house.
>
>
>Thanks,
>Matt

quote:

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> In article <1140ldm11romg25@corp.supernews.com>,
> Matias Silva <matt@nospam.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> I don't think you use "voip" the same way I do.
>
> A voip handset runs voice over an ethernet (or any other IP media,
> such as WiFi) and shares the bandwidth. If you are going to use a
> Linksys router that has an RJ-11 jack for an analog handset then
> you're not installing a viop system in the house, IMO. Just more POTS
> wire.
>
> You can expect to see WiFi-capable viop handsets soon, which I think
> will be neat.
>
> IMO you only need one POTS phone in the house for 911 calls, unless
> it's a _very_ large house.
>
> Put your switch and router stuff on a small UPS. (or maybe not so
> small) During the 24 hour NorthEast power outage a couple years ago I
> had my DSL connecttion on my UPS and was able to run my laptop for the
> entire duration and recharge my cellphone when needed. I was online
> and chatting with friends all night. (lucky).
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

quote:

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>Al Dykes wrote:
>
>I read that with VoIP you have to have lines isolated from
>the phone company. I agree, what I call my VoIP line may
>not be VoIP in the definition sense. My VoIP line will be
>connected to a VoIP adapter and then the adapter will be
>connected to a router. I am still using traditional/analog
>based phones and have not thought about purchasing VoIP phones.
>
>Its a conservative 2 story house (~2000 sqft) and I like to have
>an anolog phone for the 911 calls in the master bdrm and the kitchen.
>
>How many Volt-Amps is your UPS? Wasn't that black out for long time?
>
>Thanks,
>Matt

quote:

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> In article <1140t8pf30ncr77@corp.supernews.com>,
> Matias Silva <matt@nospam.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> well over 24 hours for me. He were online for a while at 20 hours and
> then went dark again. I suppose I got a bit of a recharge then.
>
> 1200 VA (less due to an old battery). It supports a fully-featured
> desktop system. When the lights went out I was home and immediatly
> shut down the machine. My laptop had a full battery (good for three
> hours) and when it was used up I plugged the lapopt the UPS and was up
> again. I was careful to hit the "standby" button on the laptop
> whenever I wasn't using it.
>
> I was lucky. All the necessary telco infrustructure needed to keep my
> DSL going also had power.
>
>
> Build "g" Wifi into your whole house. If you are cost sensitive and
> yet want a fully wired house it's an economy move becasue you don't
> need anywhere as may drops but can put a printer or PC, or work on a
> laptop, anywhere with the right adapter.
>
> If you think about COAX and ethernet at the same wallplate you never
> use your PC within a couple feet of your TV (except for the
> Tivo/cablebox). You'll be using a long TV or data patch cord all the
> time.
>

quote:

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> I am looking to run the following throughout the house:

quote:

---

> 1. Coax for cable tv.
> 2. Coax satellite tv.
> 3. Cat5 for an analog phone line.
> 4. Cat5 for Voice-over-IP phone line.
> 5. Cat6 for Ethernet/Internet

quote:

---

> I'm planning it so that all the cabling comes into a control center
> located on
> the 2nd floor. The house is a two story house and it was built in
> 2000.

quote:

---

> My questions are:

quote:

---

> 1. What is the best way to run wire from the attic through
> the 2nd floor ending up at the bottom floor. Do I make 1 ft.
> diameter holes in the walls to drill between floors?

quote:

---

> 2. How do I navigate around/through firebreaks located on the
> exterior walls?

quote:

---

> 3. Would you recommend that I run 1" - 2" diameter pvc piping
> so that
> I can run the wires in the piping. What this allows is for
> me to add or remove wiring easily at a later time. My only concern
> is that I will weaken the structure of the house by running pvc
> through the walls and between floors.

quote:

---

> 4. In terms of the list above, should I add anymore type of wiring?
> I was thinking of an intercom.

quote:

---

> Thanks in advance,
> Matt

quote:

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> Hi Matias,
>
> That was a long message, so I'll post on top.
>
> First of all, you will greatly simplify your setup (and life) by getting
> rid of different types of UTP cable. Considering amount of labor and
> overall effort that goes into this kind of residential retrofit cabling
> installs, as well as the relatively small size of a residential house, you
> will hardly notice a price difference between CAT6 and CAT5E (stay away
> from just CAT5, if you can even still buy it).
>
> Now, the question of whether or not CAT6 is a viable solution for a brand
> new installs in view of CAT6A (or CAT6+) solutions out there does only
> make sense in commercial installs. A residential house usually has cable
> length less than 60m (approx. 180'), and 10G Ethernet is therefore
> guaranteed to run via general CAT6 cabling. Not so in larger commercial
> buildings, but it’s a theme for a whole separate discussion.
>
> So, to round this up, pull all CAT6 or all CAT5E, do not use different
> cables for different applications.
>
> Find a way to create a vertical shaft. The PVC pipes your proposed would
> make a it a great solution, but I would stick with 2" as a minimum if your
> walls' constructions allows. For un-insulated walls you can actually get
> away with simply removing sections of drywall and making 3-4 of 3/4" - 1"
> drilled holes for cables going through the floor. Then leave pull strings
> in every one of those holes, pull those cables you need and make sure you
> have a least one extra hole with pull string for future, and then close
> the walls back.
>
> Good luck!
>
>

quote:

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> DSL going also had power.

quote:

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> If you think about COAX and ethernet at the same wallplate you never
> use your PC within a couple feet of your TV (except for the
> Tivo/cablebox). You'll be using a long TV or data patch cord all the
> time.

quote:

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> dial 911 in case the power goes out. The other will be dedicated for

quote:

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> voip line will plug into a Linksys VoIP adapter. Granted for the voip

quote:

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> need 2 of the 8 conductors, but you never know ...

quote:

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> The one foot diameter hole is for an access hole so that I could drill a

quote:

---

> between the walls to the next floor. For example I would cut out a 1ft

quote:

---

> hole out of the drywall at the base of the wall. Then I could use a spade

quote:

---

> to make the 1" - 2" hole to run the pvc piping to run the cables ...

quote:

---

> There are drops that I want to put on the exterior walls that reach to the

quote:

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> floor, and these are the walls I am most concerned about ...

quote:

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> I'll need to find where are the joices in my house and avoid getting near

quote:

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> my next step is to find the building plans for my house.

quote:

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>
>
> If your DSL link is to the central office it's very likely it'll stay
> running. Mine did two summers ago.
>
>
>
>
> Yeah, this is important. Where the TV is located is very likely to be
> different from something using the network. It's possible the TV stuff
> might need a phone line but it's also likely a regular phone handset
> probably won't need to be near the TV. Basically it helps to do some
> thinking about where everything will be placed when actual furniture is
> installed (not implying you didn't).
>
> -Bill Kearney
>

quote:

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>
> could still
>
>
> voip. The
>
>
> line, I only
>
>
>
> Hmmm, bear in mind that VoIP is just IP. Once you 'convert' from one to the
> other you're freed up from the wiring that might be needed. As in, convert
> from IP to POTS using a VoIP ATA (like the linksys) and then you can use
> plain old telephones anywhere in the house. Many VoIP adapters support
> clever methods of 'falling back' to POTS should power go out or 911 dialing
> is needed. You can basically leave the house wired for POTS and simply use
> VoIP devices at the central wiring location. Bear in mind that you can use
> VoIP in the same way as a shared POTS line or you could use each handset on
> it's own VoIP extension. The latter gets a little complicated and usually
> involves a PC running something like the Asterisk free PBX software.
>
> Wire's cheap and running it 'all at once' is usually a good idea. But
> running more than you need, or to 'too many' locations is just a waste.
> Sometimes it's better to plan to make it 'easy' to add more wire into places
> that "probably won't need it" any time soon.
>
>
>
> 1"-2" hole
>
>
> diameter
>
>
> bit
>
>
>
> Ohhhhh, yeah that makes sense. I was envisioning some 1' holes through the
> floor... You're talking about just making some holes in the drywall to
> facilitate drilling the through-floor holes. That's normal. Drywall can be
> patched pretty easily.
>
> And once you embark on the 'break holes in the wall' process it really isn't
> that much harder to fix one hole or a half-dozen...
>
>
>
> bottom
>
>
>
> As in, run them to the outside and then down to avoid going through the
> house? It's do-able but there aren't that many situations where it's really
> necessary. Any time you start whacking holes through the exterior walls you
> introduce any number of complications (like bugs, rodents, water, cold,
> etc). That and the conduit needed to meet code it pretty pricey compared to
> running it inside. But every house varies and yours might need it.
>
>
>
> them. I guess
>
>
>
> Having the plans or talking to another neighbor that has the same floorplan
> is *always* a good idea.
>

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> office and a seperate one for the house...

quote:

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> I have heard of asterisk, but I don't like
> the idea of running a full blown computer and waste money on energy costs

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> answer calls... a system with a 300W power supply could cost around

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> thus increasing the total phone costs. Maybe for s#$%s and grins I might

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> out.

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> What I mean by exterior walls, is the drywall side of the exterior walls.

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> to imply that I was going to drill through the stucco and run the cabling

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> back in. I guess the way I'm using the term 'walls' includes both sides. I

quote:

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> the exterior walls are hardest to run cabling through becuase of all the

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> I have a two story house, would it be unreasonable to have the 2" pvc

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> from the second floor down to the bottom floor? And is there a way I can
> clearly locate the joices?

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>
> going
>
>
>
> It's spelled "joists".
>
> If you have wood floors you might be able to tell where the joists are by
> looking for the nails that hold down the flooring. They're often nailed
> down into the joists (but not always). Or you could use an ultrasonic stud
> finder. Just as they find the wood in the stud walls they can often find
> joists. Also note that ceilings below are usually attached to the joists
> above. Likewise using a stud finder will help locate the joists. Worst
> case you find a hollow sounding spot that's in a relatively easy place to
> patch and you cut an access hole. Drywall is easy enough to patch and those
> rooms needed repainting anyway, right?
>
> But yes, it's reasonable to have a riser going through the house. It's also
> reasonable to have chase spaces with access panels in places that make it
> easier to run wires even without conduits for them. Quite often there's a
> closet that's accessible 'enough' to allow punching holes on the top and
> bottom of a side and use that as an easy way to make the holes to bot the
> floor above and below.
>
> Also consider that may electricians or other contractors are amenable to
> making an extra buck in their spare time to do this grunt work for you.
> I've gotten nice work done simply by asking the guys working late on a
> nearby remodel if they needed some 'side work'.
>
> If you're in any sort of development that has other houses using the same
> floorplan it would be a fine idea to just ask those neighbors about their
> renovation work. It's a fine way to meet folks anyway, just don't be a
> creep about it. I learned where a second steel column post is located in my
> basement by seeing the unfinished space in a neighbor's place. Saved me
> from wasted effort pulling down a wall for 'free space' that has a column
> smack in the middle of it.
>

quote:

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> Wow! thanks for that advice. I appreciate the time you have put
> into your replies. I think I have a better grasp now that I have
> heard some experts.