|
Home > Archive > Home Automation > February 2006 > Creating a home Ethernet out of installed but unused Cat 5
You are viewing an archived Text-only version of the thread.
To view this thread in it's original format and/or if you want to reply to
this thread please [click here]
| Author |
Creating a home Ethernet out of installed but unused Cat 5
|
|
|
| The phone company has installed, throughout the house, shielded Cat 5
cable with 4 sets of wires. One is used for phone service, while each
of the other three is terminated with what looks like a plastic sleeve
imprinted Dolphin (just in case it makes a difference...).
I have a wi-fi broadband router on the second floor (physically
connected to two computers); I also have another computer in the ground
floor den which is currently wirelessly networked with the others. The
phone company's breakout box is in the basement, naturally.
For various reasons, I would like to physically network the first floor
computer. Ideally, I would like to install in the router room a wall
plate with an RJ45 jack, with a patch cord connecting to the router.
Currently, the Cat 5 terminates in a standard RJ11 jack. The same
would go for the ground floor den; there, however, the Cat 5 terminates
in a wall plate with a coax F-type jack at the top and a standard RJ11
at the bottom.
So that's the question - how do I approach a project like this? In
particular, how do I go about making sure that, while I go two floors
down and then one floor up, I am still connecting the same set of
wires to the appropriate terminals in the router room, the breakout box
and the den? What type of tools would I need to accomplish this?
Thanks.
| |
|
| IMO, the surest way, is to disconnect the wires from all equipment. Then go
to one end of any cable and jumper out two wires of that cable. Then go to
all the other ends and put an ohm meter on each cable until you find the one
you jumpered. Then mark both ends of that cable.
"Bruno" <bruno.lerer@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1138551772.795104.242890@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> The phone company has installed, throughout the house, shielded Cat 5
> cable with 4 sets of wires. One is used for phone service, while each
> of the other three is terminated with what looks like a plastic sleeve
> imprinted Dolphin (just in case it makes a difference...).
>
> I have a wi-fi broadband router on the second floor (physically
> connected to two computers); I also have another computer in the ground
> floor den which is currently wirelessly networked with the others. The
> phone company's breakout box is in the basement, naturally.
>
> For various reasons, I would like to physically network the first floor
> computer. Ideally, I would like to install in the router room a wall
> plate with an RJ45 jack, with a patch cord connecting to the router.
> Currently, the Cat 5 terminates in a standard RJ11 jack. The same
> would go for the ground floor den; there, however, the Cat 5 terminates
> in a wall plate with a coax F-type jack at the top and a standard RJ11
> at the bottom.
>
> So that's the question - how do I approach a project like this? In
> particular, how do I go about making sure that, while I go two floors
> down and then one floor up, I am still connecting the same set of
> wires to the appropriate terminals in the router room, the breakout box
> and the den? What type of tools would I need to accomplish this?
>
> Thanks.
>
| |
|
| If you want something to ring out the cat 5 conductors, you need a LAN
tester. You can buy one at HD
"Bruno" <bruno.lerer@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1138551772.795104.242890@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> The phone company has installed, throughout the house, shielded Cat 5
> cable with 4 sets of wires. One is used for phone service, while each
> of the other three is terminated with what looks like a plastic sleeve
> imprinted Dolphin (just in case it makes a difference...).
>
> I have a wi-fi broadband router on the second floor (physically
> connected to two computers); I also have another computer in the ground
> floor den which is currently wirelessly networked with the others. The
> phone company's breakout box is in the basement, naturally.
>
> For various reasons, I would like to physically network the first floor
> computer. Ideally, I would like to install in the router room a wall
> plate with an RJ45 jack, with a patch cord connecting to the router.
> Currently, the Cat 5 terminates in a standard RJ11 jack. The same
> would go for the ground floor den; there, however, the Cat 5 terminates
> in a wall plate with a coax F-type jack at the top and a standard RJ11
> at the bottom.
>
> So that's the question - how do I approach a project like this? In
> particular, how do I go about making sure that, while I go two floors
> down and then one floor up, I am still connecting the same set of
> wires to the appropriate terminals in the router room, the breakout box
> and the den? What type of tools would I need to accomplish this?
>
> Thanks.
>
| |
|
|
"Bruno" <bruno.lerer@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1138551772.795104.242890@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> The phone company has installed, throughout the house, shielded Cat 5
> cable with 4 sets of wires. One is used for phone service, while each
> of the other three is terminated with what looks like a plastic sleeve
> imprinted Dolphin (just in case it makes a difference...).
>
> I have a wi-fi broadband router on the second floor (physically
> connected to two computers); I also have another computer in the ground
> floor den which is currently wirelessly networked with the others. The
> phone company's breakout box is in the basement, naturally.
>
> For various reasons, I would like to physically network the first floor
> computer. Ideally, I would like to install in the router room a wall
> plate with an RJ45 jack, with a patch cord connecting to the router.
> Currently, the Cat 5 terminates in a standard RJ11 jack. The same
> would go for the ground floor den; there, however, the Cat 5 terminates
> in a wall plate with a coax F-type jack at the top and a standard RJ11
> at the bottom.
>
> So that's the question - how do I approach a project like this? In
> particular, how do I go about making sure that, while I go two floors
> down and then one floor up, I am still connecting the same set of
> wires to the appropriate terminals in the router room, the breakout box
> and the den? What type of tools would I need to accomplish this?
>
> Thanks.
Just to be clear, TELCO and ETHERNET in the same cable can be problematic.
I have tried it and the results have been poor.
VERIFY the pairs everywhere. Especially at the outside terminal block.
The devil is in the terminations. I have seen poor terminations take a CAT 5
down so low it was worthless.
Black Box has an excellent catalog with lots of information on the types of
connectors, tools and color codes.
I repeat myself I WOULD NOT run both services in the same cable. Your house
your rules.
Plan on spending at least $200 bucks for tools and terminals. Just to get
started.
| |
|
| Thanks, SQL, advice and warning both well taken. It sounds like it
would be more effective (and maybe even cheaper) to have someone drop
Cat 5 from the second floor to the first and just disregard the phone
lines.
| |
| Beachcomber 2006-01-29, 5:21 pm |
| On 29 Jan 2006 12:00:15 -0800, "Bruno" <bruno.lerer@gmail.com> wrote:
>Thanks, SQL, advice and warning both well taken. It sounds like it
>would be more effective (and maybe even cheaper) to have someone drop
>Cat 5 from the second floor to the first and just disregard the phone
>lines.
>
I agree. For most people, even if they've worked with LAN
termination equipment for years, will find it's too easy to make a
mistake in the wiring. You don't want to mix telco conductors with
your computer conductors as the results can range from bizzare to
catastrophic. Telephone wiring is not all low voltage. Do you
really want a 90 V. ring voltage accidently in contact with your
computer's LAN port?
Category 5, 5e, or even 6 wire is cheap. (You generally won't need
the shielded version unless you are in a high RF environment). Buy a
500 ft box and cable up your house as you need it.
Beachcomber
| |
| BruceR 2006-01-29, 6:21 pm |
| While not optimum, I have to disagree. The best solution, of course, is
to run a new cable. However, running a phone line and ethernet in the
same cat5 jacket should present little or no problem IF DONE CORRECTLY.
I've done it many times for the sake of expediency and have never had a
problem. I've even added 12vdc on the 4th pair and still had no
problems. Just make absolutely sure your connections are done properly.
As for tools, www.mpja.com has a very extensive tool kit for $80 that
has more than you will ever need for maintaining the wiring in your home
(http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=15043+TL). While I use
better quality "pro" grade tools for regular use, I keep one of these
kits at my second home and another in the trunk of my car "just in
case." They do the job quite competently, are of decent quality and are
ideally suited to occassional users.
What you need: For upstairs and downstairs buy 2 Cat5 RJ45 ethernet
keystone jacks and 2 RJ12 keystone jacks (get 2 colors like blue for
data and black for phone; i.e. MPJA #11082TT & 7182TT), one keystone F
connector (Home Depot), & one 3 hole and one 2 hole keystone faceplate
(MPJA 5944TT & 5943TT). You'll also want to get 4 Scotchlok connectors
for the basement location (Home Depot).
How to do it (using only the tools in the kit): On the 1st flr look at
the phone jack and determine which wires are used for your phone line -
most likely the white/blue pair. The remaining 3 pairs should be just
left loose. You can cut off the "Dolphin" connectors on the other pairs
if you've determined that the wires aren't being used for any other
purpose. Connect the tone generator to one of the orange/white pairs (if
you have more than one pair after cutting the connectors) and turn it
on. Use the wand to locate that pair at the basement phone box. If it's
not loud and clear, go to the top floor location and see if it's loud
and clear at the jack (you may have loop wiring). Now do the same thing
but put the tone gen on the other white/orange pair. What we're trying
to do is see where each end of the cable goes from the first floor
location. If the cable goes to the second floor location then you don't
need to do anything in the basement. If not, repeat the procedure on the
second floor so you can identify the pairs from each location that go to
the basement. In the basement, match the conductor colors of the
white/orange pair and the white/green pairs and connect with the
Scotchloks.
Do your terminations with the new jacks at both locations upstairs and
check it all with the cable tester in the kit.
From:SQLit
sqlit@qwest.net
> "Bruno" <bruno.lerer@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1138551772.795104.242890@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
> Just to be clear, TELCO and ETHERNET in the same cable can be
> problematic. I have tried it and the results have been poor.
>
> VERIFY the pairs everywhere. Especially at the outside terminal block.
>
> The devil is in the terminations. I have seen poor terminations take
> a CAT 5 down so low it was worthless.
>
> Black Box has an excellent catalog with lots of information on the
> types of connectors, tools and color codes.
>
> I repeat myself I WOULD NOT run both services in the same cable.
> Your house your rules.
>
> Plan on spending at least $200 bucks for tools and terminals. Just
> to get started.
| |
| Bennett Price 2006-01-29, 6:21 pm |
| You could do a simple continuity check with a 9 volt battery, a couple
of leads with alligator clips on each end, and a cheap voltmeter - all
available at Radio Shack. Connect the battery to a pair of leads
downstairs and see whether you can read 9 volts upstairs.
But are you sure it is Cat 5? You said it's shielded - it seems very
odd that the phone company would install a) Cat 5, and b) that it would
be shielded. Could be but odd.
If the wire is indeed Cat5, be sure to make the splices as short as can
be, untwisting as little of the pairs as possible. The twist in Cat 5
pairs is important. And remember that pins 1 & 2 use one twisted pair,
pins 3 & 6 another, simple continuity with any old pair of wires is not
enough.
Bruno wrote:
> The phone company has installed, throughout the house, shielded Cat 5
> cable with 4 sets of wires. One is used for phone service, while each
> of the other three is terminated with what looks like a plastic sleeve
> imprinted Dolphin (just in case it makes a difference...).
>
> I have a wi-fi broadband router on the second floor (physically
> connected to two computers); I also have another computer in the ground
> floor den which is currently wirelessly networked with the others. The
> phone company's breakout box is in the basement, naturally.
>
> For various reasons, I would like to physically network the first floor
> computer. Ideally, I would like to install in the router room a wall
> plate with an RJ45 jack, with a patch cord connecting to the router.
> Currently, the Cat 5 terminates in a standard RJ11 jack. The same
> would go for the ground floor den; there, however, the Cat 5 terminates
> in a wall plate with a coax F-type jack at the top and a standard RJ11
> at the bottom.
>
> So that's the question - how do I approach a project like this? In
> particular, how do I go about making sure that, while I go two floors
> down and then one floor up, I am still connecting the same set of
> wires to the appropriate terminals in the router room, the breakout box
> and the den? What type of tools would I need to accomplish this?
>
> Thanks.
>
| |
| Herb Stein 2006-01-29, 11:21 pm |
|
"BruceR" <br@NOhawaiiSPAM.com> wrote in message
news:1BaDf.3258$Z3.279@tornado.socal.rr.com...
> While not optimum, I have to disagree. The best solution, of course, is
> to run a new cable. However, running a phone line and ethernet in the same
> cat5 jacket should present little or no problem IF DONE CORRECTLY. I've
> done it many times for the sake of expediency and have never had a
> problem. I've even added 12vdc on the 4th pair and still had no problems.
> Just make absolutely sure your connections are done properly.
The whole point of TIA-568B (and A) by AT&T was to allow the computer
network and
telephone to occupy the same sheath. It might be "iffy" with 100 Mb or
1000Mb LAN
connections, but I'd say it's worth a try. If it's a problem (speed, etc.)
just go wireless.
Just my 2 cents.
[color=darkred]
> As for tools, www.mpja.com has a very extensive tool kit for $80 that has
> more than you will ever need for maintaining the wiring in your home
> (http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=15043+TL). While I use
> better quality "pro" grade tools for regular use, I keep one of these kits
> at my second home and another in the trunk of my car "just in case." They
> do the job quite competently, are of decent quality and are ideally suited
> to occassional users.
>
> What you need: For upstairs and downstairs buy 2 Cat5 RJ45 ethernet
> keystone jacks and 2 RJ12 keystone jacks (get 2 colors like blue for data
> and black for phone; i.e. MPJA #11082TT & 7182TT), one keystone F
> connector (Home Depot), & one 3 hole and one 2 hole keystone faceplate
> (MPJA 5944TT & 5943TT). You'll also want to get 4 Scotchlok connectors for
> the basement location (Home Depot).
>
> How to do it (using only the tools in the kit): On the 1st flr look at the
> phone jack and determine which wires are used for your phone line - most
> likely the white/blue pair. The remaining 3 pairs should be just left
> loose. You can cut off the "Dolphin" connectors on the other pairs if
> you've determined that the wires aren't being used for any other purpose.
> Connect the tone generator to one of the orange/white pairs (if you have
> more than one pair after cutting the connectors) and turn it on. Use the
> wand to locate that pair at the basement phone box. If it's not loud and
> clear, go to the top floor location and see if it's loud and clear at the
> jack (you may have loop wiring). Now do the same thing but put the tone
> gen on the other white/orange pair. What we're trying to do is see where
> each end of the cable goes from the first floor location. If the cable
> goes to the second floor location then you don't need to do anything in
> the basement. If not, repeat the procedure on the second floor so you can
> identify the pairs from each location that go to the basement. In the
> basement, match the conductor colors of the white/orange pair and the
> white/green pairs and connect with the Scotchloks.
> Do your terminations with the new jacks at both locations upstairs and
> check it all with the cable tester in the kit.
>
>
> From:SQLit
> sqlit@qwest.net
>
--
Herb
herb@herbstein.com
314 952-4601
| |
| Bob Vaughan 2006-01-29, 11:21 pm |
| In article <NJeDf.28601$H71.10851@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com>,
Herb Stein <herb@herbstein.com> wrote:
>
>"BruceR" <br@NOhawaiiSPAM.com> wrote in message
>news:1BaDf.3258$Z3.279@tornado.socal.rr.com...
>
>The whole point of TIA-568B (and A) by AT&T was to allow the computer
>network and
>telephone to occupy the same sheath. It might be "iffy" with 100 Mb or
>1000Mb LAN
>connections, but I'd say it's worth a try. If it's a problem (speed, etc.)
>just go wireless.
You can share the cable for 10baseT or 100baseT, but 1000baseT uses all
4 pairs, so there are no pairs left to share.
If the cable is at least cat3, it will support 10baseT. 100baseT requires
cat5.
Is this cable home run from each jack to the terminal, or is it daisy chained
from one jack to another?
--
-- Welcome My Son, Welcome To The Machine --
Bob Vaughan | techie @ tantivy.net |
| P.O. Box 19792, Stanford, Ca 94309 |
-- I am Me, I am only Me, And no one else is Me, What could be simpler? --
| |
| Neil Cherry 2006-01-29, 11:21 pm |
| On Mon, 30 Jan 2006 02:20:29 GMT, Herb Stein wrote:
>
> "BruceR" <br@NOhawaiiSPAM.com> wrote in message
> news:1BaDf.3258$Z3.279@tornado.socal.rr.com...
>
> The whole point of TIA-568B (and A) by AT&T was to allow the
> computer network and telephone to occupy the same sheath. It might
> be "iffy" with 100 Mb or 1000Mb LAN connections, but I'd say it's
> worth a try. If it's a problem (speed, etc.) just go wireless.
Actually I think it was for the PBX telephone system which I think is
digit not the consumer telephone which is analog. It was also at a
time of 1 M data networks with promise of 10M data networks.
--
Linux Home Automation Neil Cherry ncherry@linuxha.com
http://www.linuxha.com/ Main site
http://linuxha.blogspot.com/ My HA Blog
http://home.comcast.net/~ncherry/ Backup site
| |
| BruceR 2006-01-30, 3:21 am |
| Back when the standard was established most phones, including those on a
PBX, were still analog. The switches themselves were digital but phones
were still analog. The digital cards and digital phones were showing up
"as needed" because they were still very expensive.
From:Neil Cherry
njc@cookie.uucp
> On Mon, 30 Jan 2006 02:20:29 GMT, Herb Stein wrote:
>
>
> Actually I think it was for the PBX telephone system which I think is
> digit not the consumer telephone which is analog. It was also at a
> time of 1 M data networks with promise of 10M data networks.
>
> --
> Linux Home Automation Neil Cherry ncherry@linuxha.com
> http://www.linuxha.com/ Main site
> http://linuxha.blogspot.com/ My HA Blog
> http://home.comcast.net/~ncherry/ Backup site
| |
| dnoyeB 2006-01-30, 5:21 pm |
| Bruno wrote:
> The phone company has installed, throughout the house, shielded Cat 5
> cable with 4 sets of wires. One is used for phone service, while each
> of the other three is terminated with what looks like a plastic sleeve
> imprinted Dolphin (just in case it makes a difference...).
>
> I have a wi-fi broadband router on the second floor (physically
> connected to two computers); I also have another computer in the ground
> floor den which is currently wirelessly networked with the others. The
> phone company's breakout box is in the basement, naturally.
>
> For various reasons, I would like to physically network the first floor
> computer. Ideally, I would like to install in the router room a wall
> plate with an RJ45 jack, with a patch cord connecting to the router.
> Currently, the Cat 5 terminates in a standard RJ11 jack. The same
> would go for the ground floor den; there, however, the Cat 5 terminates
> in a wall plate with a coax F-type jack at the top and a standard RJ11
> at the bottom.
>
> So that's the question - how do I approach a project like this? In
> particular, how do I go about making sure that, while I go two floors
> down and then one floor up, I am still connecting the same set of
> wires to the appropriate terminals in the router room, the breakout box
> and the den? What type of tools would I need to accomplish this?
>
> Thanks.
>
You just need a punchdown tool and some RJ45 plugs and some wall
outlets, all cat5. If phone companies wiring is standard color, then
you can look on the internet and wire it up. You can use 1 pair for
phone, and 2 pair for ethernet. Be sure to pay close attention to the
connections. I use a finger nail clipper to snip off the wires than
hang beyond the connection point. It can be tricky to get 100Mb to
behave itself if you are not dilligent.
Otherwise have at it, its not that hard once you get the color scheme
down. I have had no problems with mixing signals either. In my last
house I had 1 pair as ISDN going up stairs, 1 pair as phone line
returning downstairs, and 2 pair as ethernet 100Mb. I did burn out a
network card when i miswired it, but intel was nice enough to replace it
anyway 
--
Thank you,
"Then said I, Wisdom [is] better than strength: nevertheless the poor
man's wisdom [is] despised, and his words are not heard." Ecclesiastes 9:16
| |
|
| It runs from each jack to the terminal. In what way does it make a
difference?
| |
|
| "But are you sure it is Cat 5? You said it's shielded - it seems very
odd that the phone company would install a) Cat 5, and b) that it would
be shielded. Could be but odd. "
I can only go by what I read on the outside jacket of the cable. It
does say "shielded" and it does say "Cat 5" (although not "5e" or
"5ENH"). I don't know if it answers the question of oddness, but the
last time the phone company (Verizon) was in the house, they installed
their fiber optic service (FIOS), replacing the cable company's
internet connction. (BTW, FIOS is excellent - rock solid 24/7; never
had a problem).
Anyway, as part of that, they also moved the residential phone service
coming into the house from the copper line to the fiber. They MAY have
also rewired the inside lines and installed this odd cable. Just a
guess.
| |
|
| Thanks, dnoyeB - I learned two things: first - nail clippers may
actually be useful for Cat 5 installations! (Who would have thunked?)
What's next - eggbeaters :}?
Second - you can actually BURN a network card by miswiring? What
particular feature of th e miswiring causes that?
| |
| dnoyeB 2006-01-31, 11:21 am |
| Bennett Price wrote:
> You could do a simple continuity check with a 9 volt battery, a couple
> of leads with alligator clips on each end, and a cheap voltmeter - all
> available at Radio Shack. Connect the battery to a pair of leads
> downstairs and see whether you can read 9 volts upstairs.
>
> But are you sure it is Cat 5? You said it's shielded - it seems very
> odd that the phone company would install a) Cat 5, and b) that it would
> be shielded. Could be but odd.
>
well phone company probably didnt install it anyway. The builder did.
Especially if its in the wall...
Cat5e is as cheap as cat3. I havent seen cat3 in years.
> If the wire is indeed Cat5, be sure to make the splices as short as can
> be, untwisting as little of the pairs as possible. The twist in Cat 5
> pairs is important. And remember that pins 1 & 2 use one twisted pair,
> pins 3 & 6 another, simple continuity with any old pair of wires is not
> enough.
>
If its CAT5 and he intends to put network on it, be sure not to make any
splices at all.
--
Thank you,
"Then said I, Wisdom [is] better than strength: nevertheless the poor
man's wisdom [is] despised, and his words are not heard." Ecclesiastes 9:16
| |
| dnoyeB 2006-01-31, 11:21 am |
| Bruno wrote:
> Thanks, dnoyeB - I learned two things: first - nail clippers may
> actually be useful for Cat 5 installations! (Who would have thunked?)
> What's next - eggbeaters :}?
>
> Second - you can actually BURN a network card by miswiring? What
> particular feature of th e miswiring causes that?
>
Likely just an cheapo card on their part. most electronics protects
itself from external miswirings to some degree. Might have been the
oscilliscope I hooked up, I don't know. I never burned another one
though, so it may have just been a sensitive card.
When you are punching down the wires into the connectors, you will see
small pieces of wire extended beyond the edges of the terminals. 100Mb
is pretty high frequency and those can act like antennas causing
problems if you don't snip them off.
You can get plugs and stuff from belkin.com I think. I also order stuff
from someone called cat5cableguy.com which is very cheap. either place
should sell punchdown tool for a few bucks.
Once its closed up in the wall, and you plug in the wire, tap the outlet
a few times with an eggbeater for good measure :P
--
Thank you,
"Then said I, Wisdom [is] better than strength: nevertheless the poor
man's wisdom [is] despised, and his words are not heard." Ecclesiastes 9:16
| |
| Al Dykes 2006-01-31, 11:21 am |
| In article <paKdnZpAl8FS70LeRVn-sQ@comcast.com>,
dnoyeB <Fake@ThisOneIsFake.com> wrote:
>Bennett Price wrote:
>
If your cable is CAT5/5e/6 it will have the label every couple feet on
the sleeve. No label; no CAT; no ethernet.
I've never seen shielded CAT-anything but I assume it's also properly
labeled.
--
a d y k e s @ p a n i x . c o m
Don't blame me. I voted for Gore.
| |
| Al Dykes 2006-01-31, 11:21 am |
| In article <j5idnR9Vjskm6ULenZ2dnUVZ_tKdnZ2d@comcast.com>,
dnoyeB <Fake@ThisOneIsFake.com> wrote:
>Bruno wrote:
>
>Likely just an cheapo card on their part. most electronics protects
>itself from external miswirings to some degree. Might have been the
>oscilliscope I hooked up, I don't know. I never burned another one
>though, so it may have just been a sensitive card.
>
All ethernet interfaces are isolated from any voltage on the copper up
to a couple thousand volts, either by a transformer or (ISTR) pairs of
LED diodes and sensors, but the latter may have been in the 10Mb
era. I can't see a cheap 100Mb optical sensor.
--
a d y k e s @ p a n i x . c o m
Don't blame me. I voted for Gore.
| |
| Neil Cherry 2006-01-31, 11:21 am |
| On 31 Jan 2006 09:33:47 -0500, Al Dykes wrote:
> In article <paKdnZpAl8FS70LeRVn-sQ@comcast.com>,
> dnoyeB <Fake@ThisOneIsFake.com> wrote:
>
>
> If your cable is CAT5/5e/6 it will have the label every couple feet on
> the sleeve. No label; no CAT; no ethernet.
>
> I've never seen shielded CAT-anything but I assume it's also properly
> labeled.
A long time ago I remember seeing sheilded cat 5. There is one big
problem with sheilded. You can only ground 1 end not both. I've also
seen cable that is sheilded and looks like cat 5. The problem with
this stuff is the impedance of the cable is out of spec and will cause
all sorts of problems.
--
Linux Home Automation Neil Cherry ncherry@linuxha.com
http://www.linuxha.com/ Main site
http://linuxha.blogspot.com/ My HA Blog
http://home.comcast.net/~ncherry/ Backup site
| |
| Keith Williams 2006-01-31, 1:21 pm |
| In article <1138707210.492761.243520@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>,
bruno.lerer@gmail.com says...
> It runs from each jack to the terminal. In what way does it make a
> difference?
If it runs from each jack to a central terminal you can replace the
terminal with a switch. If it's daisy-chained you can't.
Quoting what your replying to is nice. It gives context to your
question.
--
Keith
| |
|
|
"Al Dykes" <adykes@panix.com> wrote in message
news:drnsgb$das$1@panix5.panix.com...
> In article <paKdnZpAl8FS70LeRVn-sQ@comcast.com>,
> dnoyeB <Fake@ThisOneIsFake.com> wrote:
[color=darkred]
[color=darkred]
>
> If your cable is CAT5/5e/6 it will have the label every couple feet on
> the sleeve. No label; no CAT; no ethernet.
>
> I've never seen shielded CAT-anything but I assume it's also properly
> labeled.
It is probably 3 pair screened CAT5, this is pretty common in newer
residentlial installations (for telephone).
----== Posted via droptable.com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.droptable.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----
| |
| George 2006-02-01, 2:21 pm |
| dnoyeB wrote:
>
> You can get plugs and stuff from belkin.com I think. I also order stuff
> from someone called cat5cableguy.com which is very cheap. either place
> should sell punchdown tool for a few bucks.
>
The last place you want to save a few bucks by buying mickey mouse stuff
is on a network.
> Once its closed up in the wall, and you plug in the wire, tap the outlet
> a few times with an eggbeater for good measure :P
>
>
| |
| BruceR 2006-02-01, 5:21 pm |
| How do you define "Mickey Mouse" stuff? By price? Just because a vendor
decides to sell at reasonable prices rather than take the full markup on
the stuff doesn't mean it's any worse. By all means know what you're
buying but don't equate price only to quality.
From:George
george@nospam.invalid
[color=darkred]
> dnoyeB wrote:
>
>
> The last place you want to save a few bucks by buying mickey mouse
> stuff is on a network.
>
>
>
| |
| dnoyeB 2006-02-01, 9:21 pm |
| George wrote:
> dnoyeB wrote:
>
>
> The last place you want to save a few bucks by buying mickey mouse stuff
> is on a network.
>
>
Well it wasn't actually labeled 'cat5cableguy' on the product you know...
--
Thank you,
"Then said I, Wisdom [is] better than strength: nevertheless the poor
man's wisdom [is] despised, and his words are not heard." Ecclesiastes 9:16
|
|
|
|
|