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Home > Archive > Building and Construction > December 2005 > Door between living area and garage question
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Door between living area and garage question
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| Am I required to have a steel door between say a garage and a living area?
Could I have a steel door with one large glass lite? I'd like some glass
so's I could watch the kiddos while I'm in the garage. Should I wait until
the inspector does a final and then put whatever damn door I want in there?
TIA.
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| Matt Whiting 2005-11-13, 10:21 am |
| Bobk207 wrote:
> You can do whatever you want but the "right way" would be a fire door
> with glass.
>
> New ceramic materials allow fire rated doors to have glass.
>
>
> http://www.fireglass.com/press_room/articles/open.asp
>
The materials have been around for more than 50 years, it just took the
building industry that long to find them. :-)
Matt
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It may take another 50 years before you will get the local AHJ to
accept it.
(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net
"Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message
news:0oHdf.2596$lb.203588@news1.epix.net...
> Bobk207 wrote:
>
>
> The materials have been around for more than 50 years, it just
> took the building industry that long to find them. :-)
>
> Matt
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| New Wave Dave 2005-11-13, 11:21 am |
|
"Bobk207" <rkazanjy@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1131865924.924250.183530@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
>
> You can do whatever you want but the "right way" would be a fire door
> with glass.
>
> New ceramic materials allow fire rated doors to have glass.
>
>
> http://www.fireglass.com/press_room/articles/open.asp
>
The same reason that code now requires 5/8 fire-rated drywall
between a garage and a living area.
--
"New Wave" Dave In Houston
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| Dennis 2005-11-16, 8:21 pm |
| The code requirements are to use (1) a solid wood door 1-3/8" thick, (2)
solid or honeycomb steel door or (3) a 20- minute rated door. (These are not
"fire" doors.) As far as the code is concerned, there is no provision for
adding a lite, however you could purchase a rated assembly with a lite with
a twenty-minute rating, but I fear the cost would be excessive.
If you do add a glass window to a standard wood door, make certain you get
permission from your insurance company, in writing, before your proceed.
Failure to inform them of the increased risk could void your insurance after
a fire. If you modify your home and take it out of compliance with the local
codes, you could be liable for all damages associated with the fire. It
could void your policy. And, they can come back on you years after you sell
the home.
[After I sold my last home, the new owners had a fire started from the
improperly-installed Franklin Stove. It destroyed the second floor of the
home and the insurance company covered the loss. Then they came after me. As
the stove was installed by the owner who had sold the home to me, they then
went after him. This was seven years after he had sold the home and had
built a new one. They sued him for all the damages and he had to sell his
home to pay the insurance company off. Remember, if YOU make the
modifications, you are liable forever, even after you move on.]
Why not just install a listening device (intercom or the like) to keep track
of the kids? You can get small TV cameras that broadcast over a few dozen
yards and watch them on TV.
(BTW, The separation for the wall and ceiling is for 1/2" gypsum. If located
below habitable room, then you would be required to use 5/8" Type X
drywall.)
> Am I required to have a steel door between say a garage and a living area?
> Could I have a steel door with one large glass lite? I'd like some glass
> so's I could watch the kiddos while I'm in the garage. Should I wait until
> the inspector does a final and then put whatever damn door I want in
> there?
> TIA.
>
>
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| ConcreteGuy 2005-12-15, 3:21 am |
|
Dennis got this issue right on,listen to what he said...I would add
that the fire rated door is set in a checked frame and has a auto door
closer set on it...If you need 5/8" drywall in some areas, taped, that
fire adjuster will carry a hammer and break a piece off and measure
how thick it is that you put in...If it's not to code he will walk
away and you will have the fire repair bill...Remember the short cut
is the long way around...Alot of fires start in garages...Protect your
kids and do it the right way the first time...good luck on your new
home...
Lansing
On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 23:24:08 GMT, "Dennis" <nobody@verizon.net> wrote:
>The code requirements are to use (1) a solid wood door 1-3/8" thick, (2)
>solid or honeycomb steel door or (3) a 20- minute rated door. (These are not
>"fire" doors.) As far as the code is concerned, there is no provision for
>adding a lite, however you could purchase a rated assembly with a lite with
>a twenty-minute rating, but I fear the cost would be excessive.
>
>If you do add a glass window to a standard wood door, make certain you get
>permission from your insurance company, in writing, before your proceed.
>Failure to inform them of the increased risk could void your insurance after
>a fire. If you modify your home and take it out of compliance with the local
>codes, you could be liable for all damages associated with the fire. It
>could void your policy. And, they can come back on you years after you sell
>the home.
>
>[After I sold my last home, the new owners had a fire started from the
>improperly-installed Franklin Stove. It destroyed the second floor of the
>home and the insurance company covered the loss. Then they came after me. As
>the stove was installed by the owner who had sold the home to me, they then
>went after him. This was seven years after he had sold the home and had
>built a new one. They sued him for all the damages and he had to sell his
>home to pay the insurance company off. Remember, if YOU make the
>modifications, you are liable forever, even after you move on.]
>
>Why not just install a listening device (intercom or the like) to keep track
>of the kids? You can get small TV cameras that broadcast over a few dozen
>yards and watch them on TV.
>
>(BTW, The separation for the wall and ceiling is for 1/2" gypsum. If located
>below habitable room, then you would be required to use 5/8" Type X
>drywall.)
>
>
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| RicodJour 2005-12-15, 11:21 am |
|
ConcreteGuy wrote:
> Dennis got this issue right on,listen to what he said...I would add
> that the fire rated door is set in a checked frame and has a auto door
> closer set on it...If you need 5/8" drywall in some areas, taped, that
> fire adjuster will carry a hammer and break a piece off and measure
> how thick it is that you put in...If it's not to code he will walk
> away and you will have the fire repair bill...Remember the short cut
> is the long way around...Alot of fires start in garages...Protect your
> kids and do it the right way the first time...good luck on your new
> home...
I think I'd be adjusting the adjuster with a hammer if he tried to
knock a hole in my walls with one. There are other ways to determine
the thickness of the drywall, such as removing a receptacle cover plate
or using a nail. Less destructive and guaranteed to increase the life
expectancy of said adjuster.
R
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| JerryD\(upstateNY\) 2005-12-15, 5:21 pm |
| >>If you need 5/8" drywall in some areas, taped, that........... fire[color=darkred]
R,
Because he said fire adjuster, I assume he was talking about someone coming
in AFTER a fire and checking the drywall.
I doubt that busting a hole in the drywall would hurt anything after a fire.
--
JerryD(upstateNY)
I think I'd be adjusting the adjuster with a hammer if he tried to
knock a hole in my walls with one. There are other ways to determine
the thickness of the drywall, such as removing a receptacle cover plate
or using a nail. Less destructive and guaranteed to increase the life
expectancy of said adjuster.
R
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| chickenwing 2005-12-15, 8:21 pm |
|
JerryD(upstateNY) wrote:
>
> R,
> Because he said fire adjuster, I assume he was talking about someone coming
> in AFTER a fire and checking the drywall.
> I doubt that busting a hole in the drywall would hurt anything after a fire.
>
> --
> JerryD(upstateNY)
>
>
> I think I'd be adjusting the adjuster with a hammer if he tried to
> knock a hole in my walls with one. There are other ways to determine
> the thickness of the drywall, such as removing a receptacle cover plate
> or using a nail. Less destructive and guaranteed to increase the life
> expectancy of said adjuster.
>
ya or just have a gander at wall while standing in the door way.
or
go in there and holler, ill tell you if I can hear you
> R
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| RicodJour 2005-12-15, 10:21 pm |
| chickenwing wrote:
>
> ya or just have a gander at wall while standing in the door way.
>
> or
>
> go in there and holler, ill tell you if I can hear you
You remind me of that character in Blazing Saddles that no one could
understand - real frontier gibberish.
R
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| Matt Barrow 2005-12-16, 1:21 am |
|
"RicodJour" <ricodjour@worldemail.com> wrote in message
news:1134696633.293972.107860@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> chickenwing wrote:
>
> You remind me of that character in Blazing Saddles that no one could
> understand - real frontier gibberish.
>
Gabby Johnson
"Hey, the sheriff is a nig<DING>"
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| Dan Deckert 2005-12-16, 2:21 pm |
| Ya know, I had to backtrace the addy from CW to see if it was Lyle popping
in. Must be a cousin or something.
Dan
"RicodJour" <ricodjour@worldemail.com> wrote in message
news:1134696633.293972.107860@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> chickenwing wrote:
plate[color=darkred]
>
> You remind me of that character in Blazing Saddles that no one could
> understand - real frontier gibberish.
>
> R
>
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