| Author |
Affixing Fiberglass Insulation To A Wall
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| John Gregory 2005-12-12, 1:21 pm |
| I've got a fiberglass insulation problem. Picture the top room of a two
story house with attached garage having the top half of one wall (the garage
side wall) unsheathed exposing only one layer of R19 . with many voids. I've
placed three layers of R19 in the attic (atop this and other rooms) but the
exposure to the garage wall bothers me. I need to insulate it. From the
garage side, however, this top half of the wall is accessible from a loft
(garage ceiling). When standing in that loft and facing the wall that I want
to insulate, only about the top 4 feet of that room is exposed. The ends of
that wall taper off on an angle due to the slope of the roof. For some
reason a rafter on the top of that wall is marked "no sheathing" as though
it were explicit instructions to a carpenter not to cover that fiberglass. I
don't know why that would be other than to save time and a very small amount
of material. I suspect I'm loosing heat to the cold garage here in NE Ohio.
I want to add a layer of fiberglass to that exposed wall, running it
horizontally, but don't know how to affix it to the wall. Chicken wire is
the only thing I can think of at the moment. How do I wrap that exposed
wall?
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| chickenwing 2005-12-13, 11:22 am |
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John Gregory wrote:
> I've got a fiberglass insulation problem. Picture the top room of a two
> story house with attached garage having the top half of one wall (the garage
> ...wire is
> the only thing I can think of at the moment. How do I wrap that exposed
> wall?
tell us more about the target wall.
do you see studs? is it dried in already?
If it is just studded wall...why not just put regular insulation in
between the studs
and staple the edges of insulation to the stud (as usual)
if it is drywalled already...don't try to dump any insulation behind
it..pending the thickness of the drywall you could buckle the wall down
lower (i've seen this happen with the blown type)
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| John Gregory 2005-12-13, 12:21 pm |
| Studs are exposed on the target wall and have R19 in between with a few
exceptions ("...unsheathed exposing only one layer of R19 . with many
voids..."). If I try stapling rows of R19 horizontally across these studs,
I'll be compressing the insulation to the point where I loose insulating
capability. The rolls need to be permitted to expand. To do that, the only
thing I can think might hold them in place that's practical and simply to
assemble is... chicken wire.
"chickenwing" <bigbadbarry@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1134484960.935391.125650@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>
> John Gregory wrote:
>
> tell us more about the target wall.
>
> do you see studs? is it dried in already?
>
> If it is just studded wall...why not just put regular insulation in
> between the studs
> and staple the edges of insulation to the stud (as usual)
>
> if it is drywalled already...don't try to dump any insulation behind
> it..pending the thickness of the drywall you could buckle the wall down
> lower (i've seen this happen with the blown type)
>
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| RicodJour 2005-12-13, 12:21 pm |
|
John Gregory wrote:
> Studs are exposed on the target wall and have R19 in between with a few
> exceptions ("...unsheathed exposing only one layer of R19 . with many
> voids..."). If I try stapling rows of R19 horizontally across these studs,
> I'll be compressing the insulation to the point where I loose insulating
> capability. The rolls need to be permitted to expand. To do that, the only
> thing I can think might hold them in place that's practical and simply to
> assemble is... chicken wire.
Use rigid insulation.
R
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| John Gregory 2005-12-13, 3:21 pm |
| >>Use rigid insulation.<<
Can I get a minimum of R19 in rigid?
"RicodJour" <ricodjour@worldemail.com> wrote in message
news:1134489943.417431.223660@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
> John Gregory wrote:
>
> Use rigid insulation.
>
> R
>
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| Artemis 2005-12-13, 7:21 pm |
| John Gregory wrote:
>
> Can I get a minimum of R19 in rigid?
>
Yes, use multiple layers if needed.
--
Artemis
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| chickenwing 2005-12-13, 7:21 pm |
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John Gregory wrote:
> Studs are exposed on the target wall and have R19 in between with a few
> exceptions ("...unsheathed exposing only one layer of R19 . with many
...you could buckle the wall down[color=darkred]
dude! never mind what it looks like (not that you said that)
don't add more insul over top of existing
fill in the holes and put plastic or a tarp over
or...hang to match existing ext finish
christmas is coming, plastic is cheap
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| RicodJour 2005-12-13, 7:21 pm |
| chickenwing wrote:
> John Gregory wrote:
> ..you could buckle the wall down
>
> dude! never mind what it looks like (not that you said that)
>
> don't add more insul over top of existing
> fill in the holes and put plastic or a tarp over
>
> or...hang to match existing ext finish
>
> christmas is coming, plastic is cheap
Much like some people's advice.
WTF are you saying? The guy asks about putting more insulation on a
wall to bring it up to the insulation level for the rest of the room,
and you tell him to forget the insulation and cover it with plastic...?
Sheesh.
R
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| SteveF 2005-12-13, 8:21 pm |
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"John Gregory" <jaygreg90@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:umEnf.187194$tD4.115826@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com...
> Can I get a minimum of R19 in rigid?
>
Rigid board is going to be R-5 per inch. Home Depot sells the 2" thick
stuff. Screw on the first layer with 3" drywall screws and washers and then
glue the second layer to the first. Alternatively you could call an
insulation supplier (yellow pages) and get 4" thick board. Leave a 1/2 gap
all the way around (makes cutting to fit MUCH easier) and then use a can of
Great Stuff to seal the edges.
Steve.
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| stop humping my posts
damn right! dude is tring to pull up on some scotch
(you don't know nothing about that now do ya!, and a fine cigar)
that's real. money, plastic fucking gagage bag will buy him a bottle of
scotch. (just have some headache medsin on hand)
"RicodJour" <ricodjour@worldemail.com> wrote in message
news:1134515451.006264.118050@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> chickenwing wrote:
few[color=darkred]
>
> Much like some people's advice.
>
> WTF are you saying? The guy asks about putting more insulation on a
> wall to bring it up to the insulation level for the rest of the room,
> and you tell him to forget the insulation and cover it with plastic...?
> Sheesh.
>
> R
>
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| John Gregory 2005-12-14, 10:21 am |
| Looks like "beadboard" is out: "... R-values range from 3.8 to 4.4 per inch
(2.54 cm) of thickness." This would mean I'd have to custom cut lots about 4
sheets and glue them together as opposed to running rows of R19 fiberglass
across a piece of chicken wire cut to the dimension necessary.
"RicodJour" <ricodjour@worldemail.com> wrote in message
news:1134512467.296530.15780@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> John Gregory wrote:
>
> Depends on thickness, type of foam and your sensitivity to cost. This
> link might help with your decision:
> http://doityourself.com/insulate/fo...dinsulation.htm
>
> R
>
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| RicodJour 2005-12-14, 11:21 am |
| John Gregory wrote:
> Looks like "beadboard" is out: "... R-values range from 3.8 to 4.4 per inch
> (2.54 cm) of thickness." This would mean I'd have to custom cut lots about 4
> sheets and glue them together as opposed to running rows of R19 fiberglass
> across a piece of chicken wire cut to the dimension necessary.
The chicken wire will compress the fiberglass and you'll get less
insulation value. If you want to investigate thicker rigid board, call
a roofing supply house. They'll have various types up to about 4"
thick.
R
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