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tying into a 3" sewer line - zoeller toilet pump
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| i've installed zoeller pump toilet thingy...
I have to T into a 3" copper sewer line
and tie a 2" pvc line from the toilet pump.
i bought a 3" rubber sanitary T and a reducer
I always have wanted to install one of them fancy toilets...
I have no clue if this is right or not. I mean I don't want shit thrown all
over these nice peoples walls...
im going to cut the sewer line with a hacksaw, put the T...
I HOPE this is right. this could make for a memorable christmasssss
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| PipeDown 2005-12-20, 9:21 pm |
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"bebo" <1@1.com> wrote in message news:8S0qf.42499$eI5.14468@trnddc05...
> i've installed zoeller pump toilet thingy...
>
> I have to T into a 3" copper sewer line
> and tie a 2" pvc line from the toilet pump.
>
> i bought a 3" rubber sanitary T and a reducer
>
> I always have wanted to install one of them fancy toilets...
>
> I have no clue if this is right or not. I mean I don't want shit thrown
> all
> over these nice peoples walls...
>
> im going to cut the sewer line with a hacksaw, put the T...
>
> I HOPE this is right. this could make for a memorable christmasssss
>
>
I don't know what a zoeller pump toilet thingy is and copper is a very
unusual material for a 3" drain line but I suppose it is possible, are you
sure its not cast iron. In any case, since you are tying in using a
different material, the rubber "No-Hub Connector" sanitary tee is the proper
method.
You also need to vent this new drain connection or indeed you might just
spray shit on the walls but from another toilet or sink drain or tub. The
vent should be inbetween the toilet mounting ring and the new sanitary tee
and should tie into the old vent stack or have its own vent pipe to the
roof.
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"PipeDown" <nowhere@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> You also need to vent this new drain connection or indeed you might just
> spray shit on the walls but from another toilet or sink drain or tub. The
> vent should be inbetween the toilet mounting ring and the new sanitary tee
> and should tie into the old vent stack or have its own vent pipe to the
> roof.
>
cool
I hadn't seen 3" copper sewer line either, come to think of it, there is no
pvc going to appliances, toilets are all on 2" copper, sinks drains are on 1
1/2" copper
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| chickenwing 2005-12-20, 11:21 pm |
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PipeDown wrote:
> I don't know what a zoeller pump toilet thingy is and copper is a very
> unusual material for a 3" drain line but I suppose it is possible, are you
> sure its not cast iron. In any case, since you are tying in using a
> different material, the rubber "No-Hub Connector" sanitary tee is the proper
> method.
you just mount the toilet to a big plastic tank and put a pump inside
the tank
when the float comes up, the pump pushes the sewage out of the house
the air vent on this unit is 3" pvc (coming out of the tank)
i just cut through the outside wall and piped it out there
there should not be any "stink" as long as the toilet stays flushed
(and the pump is working)
i suppose the vent is just so methane does not build up and cause an
explosion
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| P. Fritz 2005-12-21, 12:21 am |
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"PipeDown" <nowhere@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:3n1qf.695$R84.189@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>
> "bebo" <1@1.com> wrote in message news:8S0qf.42499$eI5.14468@trnddc05...
>
> I don't know what a zoeller pump toilet thingy is and copper is a very
> unusual material for a 3" drain line but I suppose it is possible, are
you
> sure its not cast iron. In any case, since you are tying in using a
> different material, the rubber "No-Hub Connector" sanitary tee is the
proper
> method.
>
> You also need to vent this new drain connection or indeed you might just
> spray shit on the walls but from another toilet or sink drain or tub.
The
> vent should be inbetween the toilet mounting ring and the new sanitary
tee
> and should tie into the old vent stack or have its own vent pipe to the
> roof.
I found some 3"? copper waste pipe in a 1950's era part of my house.
>
>
>
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| Phil Scott 2005-12-21, 1:21 am |
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"chickenwing" <bigbadbarry@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1135132900.833637.77330@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
> PipeDown wrote:
>
>
> you just mount the toilet to a big plastic tank and put a
> pump inside
> the tank
> when the float comes up, the pump pushes the sewage out of
> the house
>
> the air vent on this unit is 3" pvc (coming out of the tank)
> i just cut through the outside wall and piped it out there
> there should not be any "stink" as long as the toilet stays
> flushed
> (and the pump is working)
> i suppose the vent is just so methane does not build up and
> cause an
> explosion
thats bad.
>
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| Phil Scott 2005-12-21, 2:21 am |
|
"bebo" <1@1.com> wrote in message
news:8S0qf.42499$eI5.14468@trnddc05...
> i've installed zoeller pump toilet thingy...
>
> I have to T into a 3" copper sewer line
> and tie a 2" pvc line from the toilet pump.
>
> i bought a 3" rubber sanitary T and a reducer
>
> I always have wanted to install one of them fancy toilets...
>
> I have no clue if this is right or not. I mean I don't want
> shit thrown all
> over these nice peoples walls...
>
> im going to cut the sewer line with a hacksaw, put the T...
>
> I HOPE this is right. this could make for a memorable
> christmasssss
The branch on the tee better be up, not down. and you may
also need a sewage rated check valve in the pumped line (it
will say so in the instructions if thats the case)
If the main sewage lines plugs down stream from your tee and
the pump comes on it will blow sewage back up through existing
toilet, unless thats clogged... then the sewage would blow out
the sinks.
A guy I worked for one time (old fart and a very smart guy
generally), blew 1000 gallons of sewage up 4 floors of the JC
Penny store in downdown sacramento about 40 years ago...
he emptied 100 gallons of freon 11 into their basement sewage
pump (sealed on top) the freon vaporized when it hit the warm
tank water, and back flushed the sewage to all sinks, toilets,
drinking fountains and vents in the building.
You could try but I dont think you could beat that... the best
you could do would be 40 gallons or so.
Phil Scott
>
>
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| chickenwing 2005-12-21, 4:21 am |
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Phil Scott wrote:
> You could try but I dont think you could beat that... the best
> you could do would be 40 gallons or so.
> Phil Scott
Thanks
the one thing that is bothering me, the wash drain empties just below
my T
(it's tied right into the main copper sewer line)
the top of the wash drain (where you hang the hose) is above my T
gravity wise
Im just thinking maybe the pump will push it on up through there...
I even thought about a one way valve on the wash drain line
There was a story on discovery channel about a ladies basement toilet.
seems that the whole street was clogged at their main...big pressure
was
building. This ladies toilet was the lowest in the neighborhood...it
bloed shit
all over her basement...it was 3 and 4"'s caked throughout...she had
been on vacation
and came home and found it.
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| Phil Scott 2005-12-21, 5:21 am |
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"chickenwing" <bigbadbarry@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1135152261.765552.100760@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>
> Phil Scott wrote:
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> the one thing that is bothering me, the wash drain empties
> just below
> my T
> (it's tied right into the main copper sewer line)
> the top of the wash drain (where you hang the hose) is above
> my T
> gravity wise
> Im just thinking maybe the pump will push it on up through
> there...
>
> I even thought about a one way valve on the wash drain line
>
> There was a story on discovery channel about a ladies
> basement toilet.
> seems that the whole street was clogged at their main...big
> pressure
> was
> building. This ladies toilet was the lowest in the
> neighborhood...it
> bloed shit
> all over her basement...it was 3 and 4"'s caked
> throughout...she had
> been on vacation
> and came home and found it.
There are a lot of ways to screw something up, then there
is murphys law... and there is crap. That has a mind of
its own. A situation like that can go totally south. The
one way valves can stick open in cases like that.
Anytime you have poop flowing up hill its a problem... its not
natural. Anyone in business knows that it flows down hill...
anyone with diarhea knows that. So some MORON makes a
terlit that goes uphill!! Under pressure?
Amazing.
You could have gas or anything... someone could go in to use
the loo and light a cigarette and it would be all over for
them.
Phil Scott
>
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| PipeDown 2005-12-21, 3:21 pm |
|
"chickenwing" <bigbadbarry@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1135132900.833637.77330@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
> PipeDown wrote:
>
>
> you just mount the toilet to a big plastic tank and put a pump inside
> the tank
> when the float comes up, the pump pushes the sewage out of the house
>
> the air vent on this unit is 3" pvc (coming out of the tank)
> i just cut through the outside wall and piped it out there
> there should not be any "stink" as long as the toilet stays flushed
> (and the pump is working)
> i suppose the vent is just so methane does not build up and cause an
> explosion
>
The purpose of a vent which is required for every drain connection is so
that when and if water completely fills the pipe the pressurized (vacuum)
air ahead (behind) of that water plug has someplace to go. If a vent were
not there, this pressure bubble could vent at another drain causing the
water in its trap to be expelled. For a toilet, there are perhaps a half
dozen standard venting configurations (and probably a few more creative
ones) depending on the location of the closet flange (toilet mounting ring)
and the connection to to the sewer stack.
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| PipeDown 2005-12-21, 3:21 pm |
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"PipeDown" <nowhere@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:vxhqf.4581$mj1.308@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>
> "chickenwing" <bigbadbarry@adelphia.net> wrote in message
> news:1135132900.833637.77330@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
> The purpose of a vent which is required for every drain connection is so
> that when and if water completely fills the pipe the pressurized (vacuum)
> air ahead (behind) of that water plug has someplace to go. If a vent were
> not there, this pressure bubble could vent at another drain causing the
> water in its trap to be expelled. For a toilet, there are perhaps a half
> dozen standard venting configurations (and probably a few more creative
> ones) depending on the location of the closet flange (toilet mounting
> ring) and the connection to to the sewer stack.
>
I suppose a pressurized toilet is an exception, the vent location should be
on the downhill side of a drain or it would fill upon flushing (it should
always be dry). That is a more technical solution, a vent may not be
required here but alternate venting downstream must exist.
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| chickenwing 2005-12-21, 8:21 pm |
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PipeDown wrote:
> I suppose a pressurized toilet is an exception, the vent location should be
> on the downhill side of a drain or it would fill upon flushing (it should
> always be dry). That is a more technical solution, a vent may not be
> required here but alternate venting downstream must exist.
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/sewage.html#QJ
if you go there, look about 1/2 down the page on the right
that's the toilet I installed...
and, success today! I cut the 3" copper with a backward blade in a
skill saw...it cut like butter. I finished with a hacksaw.
the toilet works, it fills up to the wax seal before it starts pumping
this is adjustable with the float switch inside the tank
~~~
what do you mean downhill vent, methane doesn't rise?
EVERYBODY OUT OF THE HOUSE!
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