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Author Placing Blocks Under a Utility Building
Harry

2005-07-16, 6:25 pm


Hello,
How do you lift (or can it be done) the corners of a small, utility building,
to place cinder blocks under it? Is it something a homeowner can do? Is it
dangerous? Is it expensive? How would it effect the level of the building,
or how could you keep it level? Should you place the blocks only on the corners,
or should they be placed everywhere - where? If i get someone to do it, how
much should it cost?

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Duane Bozarth

2005-07-16, 6:25 pm

Harry wrote:
quote:

>
> Hello,
> How do you lift (or can it be done) the corners of a small, utility building,
> to place cinder blocks under it? Is it something a homeowner can do? Is it
> dangerous? Is it expensive? How would it effect the level of the building,
> or how could you keep it level? Should you place the blocks only on the corners,
> or should they be placed everywhere - where? If i get someone to do it, how
> much should it cost?
>


Depends on what it's made of and how as well, of course, as to how small
is small...I lifted a 10x14 frame shop building w/ a couple 6T jacks
and odds and ends of blocking, etc. Piece 'o cake for something that
small. The number and placement of blocks depends on what there is to
set it on--you need enough to provide sufficient support for it to not
settle excessively. The shop I mentioned above has a 2x6 sill plate w/
a 2x6 edger nailed to it in an 'L' which adds significant rigidity. It
sits on blocks at the corners and the middle on each side and has been
there for 80 years or so. Leveling is either by trial and error from a
starting point or, more exactly lay out a level string line first and
use it...

The barn lift to replace a rotted sill plate, otoh, was a lot more
effort.. Same basic process, just more and bigger toolset. It's
38x66 w/ top ridge at 40ft. Used two jacks and 4x6 under the loft
joists to raise it in roughly 12-14 ft sections, then blocked them and
moved down. Ended up high enough to replace half of the length sill and
in another effort the whole west end.

OBTW, this was one hired hand and myself...took about two weeks for the
basic sill replacement work. I did the small shop all myself in about
three, replacing all the sill plates as over the years dirt had blown up
around it and rotted them out...

I don't think I have any pictures of the shop lifted, but do of the barn
if interested.
Harry

2005-07-16, 6:25 pm


Duane Bozarth <dpbozarth@swko.dot.net> wrote:
quote:

>Harry wrote:
it[vbcol=seagreen]
corners,[vbcol=seagreen]
how[vbcol=seagreen]
>
>Depends on what it's made of and how as well, of course, as to how small
>is small...I lifted a 10x14 frame shop building w/ a couple 6T jacks
>and odds and ends of blocking, etc. Piece 'o cake for something that
>small. The number and placement of blocks depends on what there is to
>set it on--you need enough to provide sufficient support for it to not
>settle excessively. The shop I mentioned above has a 2x6 sill plate w/
>a 2x6 edger nailed to it in an 'L' which adds significant rigidity. It
>sits on blocks at the corners and the middle on each side and has been
>there for 80 years or so. Leveling is either by trial and error from a
>starting point or, more exactly lay out a level string line first and
>use it...
>
>The barn lift to replace a rotted sill plate, otoh, was a lot more
>effort.. Same basic process, just more and bigger toolset. It's
>38x66 w/ top ridge at 40ft. Used two jacks and 4x6 under the loft
>joists to raise it in roughly 12-14 ft sections, then blocked them and
>moved down. Ended up high enough to replace half of the length sill and
>in another effort the whole west end.
>
>OBTW, this was one hired hand and myself...took about two weeks for the
>basic sill replacement work. I did the small shop all myself in about
>three, replacing all the sill plates as over the years dirt had blown up
>around it and rotted them out...
>
>I don't think I have any pictures of the shop lifted, but do of the barn
>if interested.
>
>

Thank you, Duane Bozarth,
Yes, i would certainly like and need to see your pictures.
Another question: how did you get the blocks to the center of the littl bldg?
That is about the size of my bldg. My bldg. is about 5 yrs or so old, so
would you think there would be any deterioration - i donot. I donot think
any of it is on the actual ground (sand) so far; hopefully i willhave gotten
it in time. I think the floor is just 2x4's with plywood. I donot know what
are "sill plates", "2x6 edger", nor a "'L'". Do i deed to?
Another question or so: which way do you lay the blocks: hole side up or
what? The bldg. has tie-downs, what trouble will that cause, or can i just
lift the bldg. without considering the tie-downs. In other words: lift until
i feel the stress on the tie downs, then install the blocks, and if necesary
use half-blocks, hole-side up and shims - sounds good to me, but is it?

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Duane Bozarth

2005-07-16, 11:25 pm

Harry wrote:
....
quote:

> Yes, i would certainly like and need to see your pictures.


I'll see what I can find that might be of the most direct interest...
quote:

> Another question: how did you get the blocks to the center of the littl bldg?


Don't understand the question...
quote:

> That is about the size of my bldg. My bldg. is about 5 yrs or so old, so
> would you think there would be any deterioration - i donot. I donot think
> any of it is on the actual ground (sand) so far; hopefully i willhave gotten
> it in time. I think the floor is just 2x4's with plywood. I donot know what
> are "sill plates", "2x6 edger", nor a "'L'". Do i deed to?


Sill plate is the bottom flat 2x piece laying on the foundation or
blocks or whatever.
Crude art...the construction detail in question looks something like--

| |
| Stud |
| 2x4 | As you can see, the 2x6 ledger
| | nailed to the sill plate adds
_______ | significant structural stiffness
------| |
|2x6 || | This building is sheathed w/ horizontal
| L || | siding, no solid sheathing (it's 90 yr old)
| e || | so that was need to keep it from sagging.
| d || | A modern construction building w/ solid
| g || | sheathing will be pretty stiff from that.
| e || |
| r || |
------|______}
---------------------
| |
| Sill Plate 2x6 |
---------------------

This building does not have a solid floor so I simply nailed some 2x
material to the interior studs and placed the jacks under them as lift
points. If the building has a solid floor you'll need to dig under it
or otherwise get under it w/ something to have as a lift point.

Tbe barn has poured slab floor of sufficient strength and thickness so
we jacked from it under the haymow floor rafters about 3 ft or so from
the outside wall. The sill plate was bolted to the foundation so we had
to take them loose before lifting. In order to set the new sill plate
in, we ended up cutting the bolts off (they had loosened in the concrete
pretty badly anyway, so it wasn't like we lost a whole lot) and patched
foundation then drilled new holes and placed anchors and used lags
through the new sill plate instead.
quote:

> Another question or so: which way do you lay the blocks: hole side up or
> what?


Well, the orignals for this building were poured solid blocks about a
foot on a side. I also happened to have some old solid bricks which were
about the additional height I wanted so I used them. If I were to use
block, I'd lay them holes up (that's the strong dimension) and put a
solid cover over them--for a building this small and light, you could
undoubtedly get by laying them the other way, but it it would look
kinda' tacky I think w/ the holes gaping at you.

The bldg. has tie-downs, what trouble will that cause, or can i just
quote:

> lift the bldg. without considering the tie-downs. In other words: lift until
> i feel the stress on the tie downs, then install the blocks, and if necesary
> use half-blocks, hole-side up and shims - sounds good to me, but is it?


What are the tie-downs tied to? Seems to me you'd have to take them
loose and then put 'em back....
Duane Bozarth

2005-07-16, 11:25 pm

Duane Bozarth wrote:
quote:

>

....a treatise on how I raised a small building and replaced sill plate
in the barn...

For a small building such as you have w/ a solid floor, it may be just
as easy or even easier to simply get a long lever such as a 4x4 and a
fulcrum and get somebody else to set the blocks under it as you lift
under the sill plate...
Harry

2005-07-16, 11:25 pm


Duane Bozarth <dpbozarth@swko.dot.net> wrote:
quote:

>Duane Bozarth wrote:
>....a treatise on how I raised a small building and replaced sill plate
>in the barn...
>
>For a small building such as you have w/ a solid floor, it may be just
>as easy or even easier to simply get a long lever such as a 4x4 and a
>fulcrum and get somebody else to set the blocks under it as you lift
>under the sill plate...
>
>

Hi,
That does sound as a good idea and worth trying first.
How do i get the blocks to the center area? In other words does the center
part of the floor need support also? Is placing the blocks under the corners
enough?

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Duane Bozarth

2005-07-16, 11:25 pm

Harry wrote:
quote:

>
> Duane Bozarth <dpbozarth@swko.dot.net> wrote:
> Hi,
> That does sound as a good idea and worth trying first.
> How do i get the blocks to the center area? In other words does the center
> part of the floor need support also? Is placing the blocks under the corners
> enough?


That depends on what the floor joists are, obviously. I didn't have the
problem since there's no fixed floor in the shop...

Guess if it's too flimsy you'd have to either do a combination dig/lift
to get there or lift enough to set some stiff-enough joists across your
blocks.
Duane Bozarth

2005-07-16, 11:25 pm

Duane Bozarth wrote:
quote:

>
> Harry wrote:
>
> That depends on what the floor joists are, obviously. I didn't have the
> problem since there's no fixed floor in the shop...
>
> Guess if it's too flimsy you'd have to either do a combination dig/lift
> to get there or lift enough to set some stiff-enough joists across your
> blocks.


Actually, of course, you can remove some of the flooring to get access,
do the necessary blocking and then put it down again...
LinkBot





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