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Home > Archive > Building and Construction > February 2006 > building 12x24 shed on skids Question
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building 12x24 shed on skids Question
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| Don D. 2006-02-25, 2:21 pm |
| I am going to be building a 12x24 tackroom on a skid so I can move it later.
I plain on doing the floor framing with 2x6 because we will use it for
holding up to 100 bails of hay, our bails weigh around 100 - 115 lb ea.
My question is, should I do the frame using two 2x6 lagged together or can I
just use one 2x6? I will also use 3/4 T/G ply on the floor.
I was planning on using 2x6x12" for the decking with 2x4x24" to put between
to stabilize it all.
Q, Over kill???? or not?
Don D.
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| Rescue 2006-02-25, 2:21 pm |
|
Don D. wrote:
> My question is, should I do the frame using two 2x6 lagged together or can I
> just use one 2x6? I will also use 3/4 T/G ply on the floor.
yeah a double is almost neccessary, it gives you a chance to "step" the
ends
where they all meet in the corners...one cut back so to let the
incoming but the outer
then you can face nail...
lags are good...you can also just throw a few nails in there...
i mean, I wouldnt' get crazy with the bolts...
> I was planning on using 2x6x12" for the decking with 2x4x24" to put between
> to stabilize it all.
that's pretty sturdy...but it may create a nusiance later...(pulling
and splitting)
maybe consider using 5/4 deck board for flooring
| |
| Don D. 2006-02-25, 5:21 pm |
| I was thinking on the long run (24') to use four 2x6x12's staggered to nail
them together instead of trying to find a 24' straight 2x.
Sound right?
I was thinking about stepping the ends also. but should I step the 12' or
the 24' run, or does it not make a difference except for appearance?
I will consider the deck board instead of T/G. I was just thinking the T/G
so nothing pops up to trip on.
When I am done using it for a storage shed I will pull in down 200 ft and
set it on blocks and use it as a tack and feed room for the horses. I will
have to build a 28x 48 work shed also to put every thing in. I will then be
picking everyone's brain at that time also.. I will start with the small one
for practice...
The joys of moving on an empty lot and starting over... My brains (worker)
moved out of state before we had a chance to build all this.. I feel blind
now, I learned what I could from him, but I am going to be lost..
Any one want to work for BEER on weekends in sunny southern AZ????
Don D.
"Rescue" <bigbadbarry@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1140888916.849772.34690@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
> Don D. wrote:
>
>
> yeah a double is almost neccessary, it gives you a chance to "step" the
> ends
> where they all meet in the corners...one cut back so to let the
> incoming but the outer
> then you can face nail...
>
> lags are good...you can also just throw a few nails in there...
> i mean, I wouldnt' get crazy with the bolts...
>
>
> that's pretty sturdy...but it may create a nusiance later...(pulling
> and splitting)
> maybe consider using 5/4 deck board for flooring
>
| |
|
| You lost me in your description.
2 skids 24' long located 6 to 8 feet apart. If you plan on
pulling on those skids to move a building I would use doubled or
tripled treated 2x6's for each skid. Install some spreaders
between them to reduce the tendency to roll over. Taper the ends
of the skids so that when you go to skid the building they don't
plow into the ground. Bore matched holes in both ends to be able
to install a heavy wall 1 1/2 or 2" pipe when you go to pull on
the building. It will give you place to wrap a chain or slide
forks.
Build a floor joist system that crosses the skids. I would use
2x6 on 16 centers, though you could probably get by at 19.2 or 24
o.c. The joists will be about 11'-9 with a rim joist on each
outside. Tie the joists to the skids with Simpson ties, band
iron, angle iron clips, 2x2's, or some such. If you plan on
skidding this building after it has sat for several years, you
don't want to rip the skids out from under it so do a good job of
tieing the joists to the skids, toenailing only is not a good
plan. When you go to deck the joists, the plywood will run long
ways in the building crossing the floor joists. 3/4 ply should
work fine. Work out all your dimensions before you begin so that
full sheets of plywood will work out for both the floor and the
exterior sheathing. You need 3 runs of 3 sheets of plywood to
make the floor, break the center run differently than the other 2
(start and finish with a half sheet) to stagger the joints. There
are plenty of manufacturers of these type building, go look at
some of them to see how they are put together. You will probably
find you can buy one of theirs for about the cost of the materials
if you build your own. The reason to build your own would be to
increase the quality.
What are you planning for the exterior skin? You normally need to
empty the building to move it.
Hope this helps your thought processes.
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net
"Don D." <pegleg1az@cox.net> wrote in message
news:Rq0Mf.1227$Uc2.25@fed1read04...
>I am going to be building a 12x24 tackroom on a skid so I can
>move it later. I plain on doing the floor framing with 2x6
>because we will use it for holding up to 100 bails of hay, our
>bails weigh around 100 - 115 lb ea.
>
> My question is, should I do the frame using two 2x6 lagged
> together or can I just use one 2x6? I will also use 3/4 T/G ply
> on the floor.
>
> I was planning on using 2x6x12" for the decking with 2x4x24" to
> put between to stabilize it all.
>
> Q, Over kill???? or not?
>
> Don D.
>
>
| |
| Al Bundy 2006-02-26, 12:21 am |
| "Don D." <pegleg1az@cox.net> wrote in news:Rq0Mf.1227$Uc2.25@fed1read04:
> I am going to be building a 12x24 tackroom on a skid so I can move it
> later. I plain on doing the floor framing with 2x6 because we will use
> it for holding up to 100 bails of hay, our bails weigh around 100 -
> 115 lb ea.
>
> My question is, should I do the frame using two 2x6 lagged together or
> can I just use one 2x6? I will also use 3/4 T/G ply on the floor.
>
> I was planning on using 2x6x12" for the decking with 2x4x24" to put
> between to stabilize it all.
>
> Q, Over kill???? or not?
>
> Don D.
>
>
If you are going to move it yourself that's one thing. If you are having
a business move it like on a flatbet, they will tell you the min
construction before they will touch it.
| |
| Don D. 2006-02-26, 1:21 am |
| Dan G.
Thanks for the in detail description. I was drawing out what I think would
be a good set up using MS Publisher and JPEG if you have that I can show
what I came up with also.
I was planning on doing the skids using 2x6 doubled up together and stagger
them to reinforce the joints. I hope you know what I mean. two will be 12'
butted together while the other 12' will join them in the center and 6' on
the ends all to make a pair of 24' double skids.
I was thinking 24" on center.
I am also going to show some local contractors for their input.
The shed will be moved about 200' in a few months after the bigger one is
build on site and we have a friend with a tractor right up the road to skid
it into place.
We are moving out to a new Manufacture home on 4 acres and I will need to
have a place for all my tools and other house hold things till I get the
other sheds and shop built. I am building this now to the specs I will need
later and will reuse it as it was built for when I am done with it.
I am going to try to post the pics in JPEG if this site allows it. If not I
can send to anyone that would be interested.
It did not send with the pics...
Again Dan G. thanks for your input. It is appreciated greatly
Don D.
"DanG" <dgriff237@7cox.net> wrote in message
news:Tj6Mf.1147$kp3.1062@fed1read03...
> You lost me in your description.
>
> 2 skids 24' long located 6 to 8 feet apart. If you plan on pulling on
> those skids to move a building I would use doubled or tripled treated
> 2x6's for each skid. Install some spreaders between them to reduce the
> tendency to roll over. Taper the ends of the skids so that when you go to
> skid the building they don't plow into the ground. Bore matched holes in
> both ends to be able to install a heavy wall 1 1/2 or 2" pipe when you go
> to pull on the building. It will give you place to wrap a chain or slide
> forks.
>
> Build a floor joist system that crosses the skids. I would use 2x6 on 16
> centers, though you could probably get by at 19.2 or 24 o.c. The joists
> will be about 11'-9 with a rim joist on each outside. Tie the joists to
> the skids with Simpson ties, band iron, angle iron clips, 2x2's, or some
> such. If you plan on skidding this building after it has sat for several
> years, you don't want to rip the skids out from under it so do a good job
> of tieing the joists to the skids, toenailing only is not a good plan.
> When you go to deck the joists, the plywood will run long ways in the
> building crossing the floor joists. 3/4 ply should work fine. Work out
> all your dimensions before you begin so that full sheets of plywood will
> work out for both the floor and the exterior sheathing. You need 3 runs
> of 3 sheets of plywood to make the floor, break the center run differently
> than the other 2 (start and finish with a half sheet) to stagger the
> joints. There are plenty of manufacturers of these type building, go look
> at some of them to see how they are put together. You will probably find
> you can buy one of theirs for about the cost of the materials if you build
> your own. The reason to build your own would be to increase the quality.
>
> What are you planning for the exterior skin? You normally need to empty
> the building to move it.
>
> Hope this helps your thought processes.
> ______________________________
> Keep the whole world singing . . . .
> DanG (remove the sevens)
> dgriff237@7cox.net
>
>
>
> "Don D." <pegleg1az@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:Rq0Mf.1227$Uc2.25@fed1read04...
>
>
| |
| Rescue 2006-02-26, 3:21 am |
| don goes
> I was thinking on the long run (24') to use four 2x6x12's staggered to
nail
> them together instead of trying to find a 24' straight 2x.
>
> Sound right?
24' run..
have you thought about butting two 12 x 12 systems up to each other?
then nothing is 24'
you could very well...move it in two pieces as well...
just a thought..you know, like they do modular homes...
and really...you build two pieces and just sew them toghether with bolts.
that's all they do with modular homes.
> I was thinking about stepping the ends also. but should I step the 12' or
> the 24' run, or does it not make a difference except for appearance?
yeah, it don't matter...maybe the front view goes the full 12'
> I will consider the deck board instead of T/G. I was just thinking the
T/G
> so nothing pops up to trip on.
oh! I misunderstood, I thought you was using 2x6 for flooring
T/G should be real nice...however, are you going to put a sub floor like
1/2" ply or so
under the T/G...you think it will need it? maybe shoot for 1 1/4" total
thickness for flooring.
(or therebouts)
> When I am done using it for a storage shed I will pull in down 200 ft and
> set it on blocks and use it as a tack and feed room for the horses. I
will
> have to build a 28x 48 work shed also to put every thing in. I will then
be
> picking everyone's brain at that time also.. I will start with the small
one
> for practice...
sounds like a plan
how you feel about pole barns...they are highly functional
i've never put one up...but they look easy enough
Barry
| |
| supsteven@gmail.com 2006-02-26, 6:21 am |
| i would like to know that you use which kind plywood,okume plywoo,birch
plywood,i want to know that which is better.i think that you can tell
me that ,thank you for your kindness,and now i want to buy the
plywood,which wholesale is the best and cheapest,you can tell me their
email.and tel.
my email is supsteven@gmail.com
you can give me by email.
thanks a lot
| |
| Rescue 2006-02-26, 9:21 am |
|
supsteven@gmail.com wrote:
> i would like to know that you use which kind plywood,okume plywoo,birch
http://www.lowes.com
use dey store locator
| |
|
| There are many news groups that will accept photos. Another
newsgroup that I frequent uses alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net
"Don D." <pegleg1az@cox.net> wrote in message
news:v2aMf.1599$Uc2.1298@fed1read04...
> Dan G.
>
> Thanks for the in detail description. I was drawing out what I
> think would
> be a good set up using MS Publisher and JPEG if you have that I
> can show
> what I came up with also.
>
> I was planning on doing the skids using 2x6 doubled up together
> and stagger
> them to reinforce the joints. I hope you know what I mean. two
> will be 12'
> butted together while the other 12' will join them in the center
> and 6' on
> the ends all to make a pair of 24' double skids.
>
> I was thinking 24" on center.
>
> I am also going to show some local contractors for their input.
>
> The shed will be moved about 200' in a few months after the
> bigger one is
> build on site and we have a friend with a tractor right up the
> road to skid
> it into place.
>
> We are moving out to a new Manufacture home on 4 acres and I
> will need to
> have a place for all my tools and other house hold things till I
> get the
> other sheds and shop built. I am building this now to the specs
> I will need
> later and will reuse it as it was built for when I am done with
> it.
>
> I am going to try to post the pics in JPEG if this site allows
> it. If not I
> can send to anyone that would be interested.
>
> It did not send with the pics...
>
> Again Dan G. thanks for your input. It is appreciated greatly
> Don D.
>
>
>
>
> "DanG" <dgriff237@7cox.net> wrote in message
> news:Tj6Mf.1147$kp3.1062@fed1read03...
>
>
| |
| Don D. 2006-02-26, 1:29 pm |
| I just posted my plans on the flooring on ;
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
Don D.
"Don D." <pegleg1az@cox.net> wrote in message
news:v2aMf.1599$Uc2.1298@fed1read04...
> Dan G.
>
> Thanks for the in detail description. I was drawing out what I think would
> be a good set up using MS Publisher and JPEG if you have that I can show
> what I came up with also.
>
> I was planning on doing the skids using 2x6 doubled up together and
> stagger
> them to reinforce the joints. I hope you know what I mean. two will be 12'
> butted together while the other 12' will join them in the center and 6' on
> the ends all to make a pair of 24' double skids.
>
> I was thinking 24" on center.
>
> I am also going to show some local contractors for their input.
>
> The shed will be moved about 200' in a few months after the bigger one is
> build on site and we have a friend with a tractor right up the road to
> skid
> it into place.
>
> We are moving out to a new Manufacture home on 4 acres and I will need to
> have a place for all my tools and other house hold things till I get the
> other sheds and shop built. I am building this now to the specs I will
> need
> later and will reuse it as it was built for when I am done with it.
>
> I am going to try to post the pics in JPEG if this site allows it. If not
> I
> can send to anyone that would be interested.
>
> It did not send with the pics...
>
> Again Dan G. thanks for your input. It is appreciated greatly
> Don D.
>
>
>
>
> "DanG" <dgriff237@7cox.net> wrote in message
> news:Tj6Mf.1147$kp3.1062@fed1read03...
>
>
| |
| Systemrecovery 2006-02-27, 12:21 am |
|
Don D. wrote:
> I just posted my plans on the flooring on ;
> alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
will check it out
say...
why don't you let me build this for you, I will put it on a flat bed
and have it brought to you.
say...5 pcs.
I can build you a 12 x 24 8' walls...ceiling joists...just regular std
framing.
for....
hmmm, lemme think about it a min...will check out the binaries
| |
| Systemrecovery 2006-02-27, 4:21 am |
|
Don D. wrote:
> I just posted my plans on the flooring on ;
> alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
>
> Don D.
cool drawings..
I like the deck rim .corner you show at bottom right
Ok, I can build it for $554.00, just hit my paypal account and ill get
that right out to you.
course if you don't wanna pay that much, I can understand...plus you'd
miss all them oppurtunities to pop a top
--
For siding I like the T-1 siding..if Im calling that right, it's rough
with vertical grooves, looks like rough paneling
| |
| Don D. 2006-02-27, 12:21 pm |
| Systemrecovery
Are you looking for an Arizona Vacation? I have a bigger build coming
around the corner. Should be 30 x 40 ish. That will be my workshop (dog
house)
Don D.
"Systemrecovery" <bigbadbarry@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1141027066.046020.128330@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
>
> Don D. wrote:
>
> cool drawings..
>
> I like the deck rim .corner you show at bottom right
>
> Ok, I can build it for $554.00, just hit my paypal account and ill get
> that right out to you.
>
> course if you don't wanna pay that much, I can understand...plus you'd
> miss all them oppurtunities to pop a top
> --
>
> For siding I like the T-1 siding..if Im calling that right, it's rough
> with vertical grooves, looks like rough paneling
>
| |
| Systemrecovery 2006-02-28, 3:21 am |
| Don D. wrote:
> Systemrecovery
> Are you looking for an Arizona Vacation? I have a bigger build coming
> around the corner. Should be 30 x 40 ish. That will be my workshop (dog
> house)
>
> Don D.
heh heh, yeah, that size is going to cost at least $800.00 lol
shoot, if you're serious, ill put an estimate together, you
know...count the materials, count the nails and bolts..etc just post on
here or email me when you're ready to move fwd with it.
Maybe after the 120deg Arizona summer...me and my motley crew can drive
over and put it up...I know I can frame it and sheath the roof in 4
days easy. (if it is a framed situation)
Later
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