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Home > Archive > Building and Construction > March 2006 > DWV pipe
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| I'm putting in a sink and toilet in the workshop. Question. The roof is
sloped. Offhand I don't know the degree. It's a metal roof. In cutting the
hole for the DWV pipe to go through, I'm not sure about how to do that in
order to make the pipe go straight up, rather than angle. It's a 4 inch
pipe, so do you cut a 4" round hole, or maybe a 5 or 6" one or maybe a
square hole?
tks
jc
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| RicodJour 2006-03-22, 12:21 pm |
| J.C. wrote:
> I'm putting in a sink and toilet in the workshop. Question. The roof is
> sloped. Offhand I don't know the degree. It's a metal roof. In cutting the
> hole for the DWV pipe to go through, I'm not sure about how to do that in
> order to make the pipe go straight up, rather than angle. It's a 4 inch
> pipe, so do you cut a 4" round hole, or maybe a 5 or 6" one or maybe a
> square hole?
It's an oval shaped hole. Use a piece of cardboard as a template, hold
it at the approximate angle of the roof, resting on the pipe in
question, trace an approximation and cut it out. Fine tune as
necessary, then use the template to mark the outline on the roof.
R
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| RicodJour 2006-03-22, 12:21 pm |
| J.C. wrote:
> I'm putting in a sink and toilet in the workshop. Question. The roof is
> sloped. Offhand I don't know the degree. It's a metal roof. In cutting the
> hole for the DWV pipe to go through, I'm not sure about how to do that in
> order to make the pipe go straight up, rather than angle. It's a 4 inch
> pipe, so do you cut a 4" round hole, or maybe a 5 or 6" one or maybe a
> square hole?
BTW, the flashing boot will cover the opening, so you should have that
on hand when you're doing your cutting. Generally a hole 1/2" oversize
is as close as you need to get.
R
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"RicodJour" <ricodjour@worldemail.com> wrote in message
news:1143043122.591229.265530@v46g2000cwv.googlegroups.com...
> J.C. wrote:
>
> BTW, the flashing boot will cover the opening, so you should have that
> on hand when you're doing your cutting. Generally a hole 1/2" oversize
> is as close as you need to get.
>
> R
>
Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.
jc
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| Chas Hurst 2006-03-22, 1:21 pm |
|
"RicodJour" <ricodjour@worldemail.com> wrote in message
news:1143043122.591229.265530@v46g2000cwv.googlegroups.com...
> J.C. wrote:
>
> BTW, the flashing boot will cover the opening, so you should have that
> on hand when you're doing your cutting. Generally a hole 1/2" oversize
> is as close as you need to get.
>
> R
What sort of flashing boot is used on a metal roof?
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| RicodJour 2006-03-22, 1:21 pm |
| Chas Hurst wrote:
> "RicodJour" <ricodjour@worldemail.com> wrote in message
>
>
> What sort of flashing boot is used on a metal roof?
http://www.partsdome.com/thalermeta...cy=CDN#deptname
http://bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=8857
That sort of thing. I don't know what sort of metal roof the OP has,
but I'd assume that one of his first considerations would be to make
sure the thing doesn't leak.
Decision process:
determine roof type & slope > determine vent size > buy boot > cut hole
In general, it's a bad idea to mix up the process order!
R
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| Chas Hurst 2006-03-22, 2:21 pm |
|
"RicodJour" <ricodjour@worldemail.com> wrote in message
news:1143047666.527534.25900@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> Chas Hurst wrote:
>
> http://www.partsdome.com/thalermeta...cy=CDN#deptname
>
> http://bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=8857
>
> That sort of thing. I don't know what sort of metal roof the OP has,
> but I'd assume that one of his first considerations would be to make
> sure the thing doesn't leak.
>
> Decision process:
> determine roof type & slope > determine vent size > buy boot > cut hole
> In general, it's a bad idea to mix up the process order!
>
> R
I'd say! I would give considerable thought to making a hole in a metal roof
particularly one of low pitch.
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| RicodJour 2006-03-22, 3:21 pm |
| Chas Hurst wrote:
>
> I'd say! I would give considerable thought to making a hole in a metal roof
> particularly one of low pitch.
The OP is adding a bathroom in his workshop. Any leaks could be spun
into "features".
Please note the rainwater irrigation system for my bathroom fern. I
prefer all natural water for watering my babies.
Or, he could just poke the hole, forget about patching it, and collect
the water for use in the bathroom for flushing. Of course if it
doesn't rain for a while and you _really_ have to go it could get a
little dicey. Is that cloud? I thought I saw a cloud! C'mon already,
rain!
R
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|
|
"RicodJour" <ricodjour@worldemail.com> wrote in message
news:1143047666.527534.25900@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> Chas Hurst wrote:
>
> http://www.partsdome.com/thalermeta...cy=CDN#deptname
>
> http://bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=8857
>
> That sort of thing. I don't know what sort of metal roof the OP has,
> but I'd assume that one of his first considerations would be to make
> sure the thing doesn't leak.
>
> Decision process:
> determine roof type & slope > determine vent size > buy boot > cut hole
> In general, it's a bad idea to mix up the process order!
>
> R
>
Thanks for those links. You answered my next question before I even thought
of it. <G>
jc
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|
| Chas Hurst wrote:
> "RicodJour" <ricodjour@worldemail.com> wrote in message
> news:1143047666.527534.25900@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> I'd say! I would give considerable thought to making a hole in a metal roof
> particularly one of low pitch.
>
>
Those boots rely soley on caulking for their weather tightness (?) so in
our area what most installers do around roof penetrations is to create a
lap joint in the panel at the penetration.Run the bottom sheet a foot
past the penetration cutting it very tight (U shape slot) and clean
around the pipe. Then cut the reverse in the top sheet overlapping the
bottom and extending beyond the penetration by a foot. Then they caulk
the sh*t out of the penetration and the lap.
There are no good reasonable solutions to a penetration in a metal roof
especially one that lands on a rib or is big enough to span multiple
ribs (wood stoves and such).
Even though it is frowned upon, if I had a metal roof with no
penetrations and was looking at sending a stink pipe through it I would
send it out the gable rather than to trust a bead of caulk to keep me
dry for then next 25 years. That or if its just for a single bath and
sink go with a mechanical vent.
Mark
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| HerHusband 2006-03-22, 6:21 pm |
| > I'm putting in a sink and toilet in the workshop. Question. The roof
> is sloped. Offhand I don't know the degree. It's a metal roof. In
> cutting the hole for the DWV pipe to go through, I'm not sure about
> how to do that in order to make the pipe go straight up, rather than
> angle. It's a 4 inch pipe, so do you cut a 4" round hole, or maybe a 5
> or 6" one or maybe a square hole?
As other's said, it works out to be an oval hole.
The "technique" I used was to hold a scrap piece of the same size pipe up
against the underside of the roof. Use a level if you want to make sure it
is plumb. Then hold a sharpie pen against the pipe (so it's always vertical
against the pipe), and trace around the pipe to the underside of the roof
sheathing. Then cut it out.
The roof flashing will cover any minor gaps, so don't worry if your hole
isn't a perfect oval.
If in doubt, cut it a little small. You can always cut it bigger, but you
can't cut it smaller once you've made the cut. 
Anthony
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| if code in you area will accept an air valve, then just skip the hole in the
roof and put the valve on top of the pipe in the attic.. fine homebuilding
has an advertisement in the mag for a company....tony
"J.C." <jccsplace@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:0peUf.120250$ww3.59758@fe05.news.easynews.com...
> I'm putting in a sink and toilet in the workshop. Question. The roof is
> sloped. Offhand I don't know the degree. It's a metal roof. In cutting the
> hole for the DWV pipe to go through, I'm not sure about how to do that in
> order to make the pipe go straight up, rather than angle. It's a 4 inch
> pipe, so do you cut a 4" round hole, or maybe a 5 or 6" one or maybe a
> square hole?
>
> tks
>
> jc
>
| |
|
|
"Tony" <tjlj@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:Q5WdnfQ_ZYtwQrzZRVn-pA@comcast.com...
> if code in you area will accept an air valve, then just skip the hole in
> the roof and put the valve on top of the pipe in the attic.. fine
> homebuilding has an advertisement in the mag for a company....tony
I've thought about that but I haven't heard enough about them to be
confident they will perform as advertised.
jc
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| 3D Peruna 2006-03-23, 11:21 pm |
| HerHusband wrote:
>
> As other's said, it works out to be an oval hole.
>
> The "technique" I used was to hold a scrap piece of the same size pipe up
> against the underside of the roof. Use a level if you want to make sure it
> is plumb. Then hold a sharpie pen against the pipe (so it's always vertical
> against the pipe), and trace around the pipe to the underside of the roof
> sheathing. Then cut it out.
>
> The roof flashing will cover any minor gaps, so don't worry if your hole
> isn't a perfect oval.
>
> If in doubt, cut it a little small. You can always cut it bigger, but you
> can't cut it smaller once you've made the cut.
>
> Anthony
>
Better yet, if you know the slope of the roof, cut the scrap pipe to the
same slope and just trace it.
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