Home > Archive > Building and Construction > April 2006 > How to mount a no-arm 6" recessed remodel into a suspended ceiling tile









You are viewing an archived Text-only version of the thread. To view this thread in it's original format and/or if you want to reply to this thread please [click here]

 

Author How to mount a no-arm 6" recessed remodel into a suspended ceiling tile
bent

2006-04-28, 4:21 pm

I am installing 2'x4' ceiling tiles; I need to do all wall L's, main T's,
panels, everything. I am then going to insulate the entire ceiling area with
Roxul Safe & Sound insul. batts. From Home Depot I purchased 6" Cooper
Lighting Halo Insulated Pots and Halo baffles. "Recessed Incandescent type
IC". Says they are good for right beside insulation.

H7RICAT is at the following link: <
http://www.haloltg.com/common/CLDetail.cfm?id=13878 >

The first .pdf says "Four remodel clips secure housing and accommodate ½"
and 5/8" ceiling material"

I previously (assumed) I would have to mount the light fixtures into the
2"x10" joist ceiling structure at the appropriate location, then install the
tile around the mounted light after cutting out the circles. Try to get the
right height, or change after.

The pot is just a single-walled semi-thick solid Aluminum shell, with a 10"
steel arm with shielded cable and pop-out box attached at the end. No square
shell, no arms. It looked easier to position and I do have a significant
space/orientation issue. These lights do not seem to have any supporting
points (I could create some). They do have clips near the flange edge where
it seems they clip on the outside of the ceiling, and the instructions show
pushing them into a completed ceiling after the wiring has been done hanging
from above. Is it right to install these lights like this into new ceiling
tiles? - so the light is clipped and held up completely by the ceiling
tiles. Or can I create my own mounts them? Or both? Or do I definitely need
another different light fixture - with arms, because it looks like I'd have
to disconnect the arm, and move it, or take it off; otherwise, I'll be off
in centering.

I hadn't really decided, but I was seriously thinking of using the
fibreglass-backed ceiling tiles, because they are more flexible, and you can
add 1" or more to the ceiling height. How about it?

It would seem easiest to just have to attach the fixture to a ceiling tile.
Can I jimmy my own (extra) support, maybe with rope, and an eye here and
there?



----== Posted via droptable.com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.droptable.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----
Doug B Taylor

2006-04-28, 10:21 pm


"bent" <bent@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:1146251370_4839@sp6iad.superfeed.net...
> I am installing 2'x4' ceiling tiles; I need to do all wall L's, main T's,
> panels, everything. I am then going to insulate the entire ceiling area

with
> Roxul Safe & Sound insul. batts. From Home Depot I purchased 6" Cooper
> Lighting Halo Insulated Pots and Halo baffles. "Recessed Incandescent type
> IC". Says they are good for right beside insulation.
>
> H7RICAT is at the following link: <
> http://www.haloltg.com/common/CLDetail.cfm?id=13878 >
>
> The first .pdf says "Four remodel clips secure housing and accommodate ½"
> and 5/8" ceiling material"
>
> I previously (assumed) I would have to mount the light fixtures into the
> 2"x10" joist ceiling structure at the appropriate location, then install

the
> tile around the mounted light after cutting out the circles. Try to get

the
> right height, or change after.
>
> The pot is just a single-walled semi-thick solid Aluminum shell, with a

10"
> steel arm with shielded cable and pop-out box attached at the end. No

square
> shell, no arms. It looked easier to position and I do have a significant
> space/orientation issue. These lights do not seem to have any supporting
> points (I could create some). They do have clips near the flange edge

where
> it seems they clip on the outside of the ceiling, and the instructions

show
> pushing them into a completed ceiling after the wiring has been done

hanging
> from above. Is it right to install these lights like this into new ceiling
> tiles? - so the light is clipped and held up completely by the ceiling
> tiles. Or can I create my own mounts them? Or both? Or do I definitely

need
> another different light fixture - with arms, because it looks like I'd

have
> to disconnect the arm, and move it, or take it off; otherwise, I'll be off
> in centering.
>
> I hadn't really decided, but I was seriously thinking of using the
> fibreglass-backed ceiling tiles, because they are more flexible, and you

can
> add 1" or more to the ceiling height. How about it?
>
> It would seem easiest to just have to attach the fixture to a ceiling

tile.
> Can I jimmy my own (extra) support, maybe with rope, and an eye here and
> there?
>
>
>
> ----== Posted via droptable.com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet

News==----
> http://www.droptable.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+

Newsgroups
> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption

=----


Dear Sir -

You do not use re-model fixtures for 2 x 4 drop-in tile ceilings. The
re-model fixtures are designed to be used with drywall ceilings or similar
already existing, hard, fixed surface ceilings. Take the fixtures you have
back and get a refund.

Purchase the IC fixtures commonly called "new construction" type and make
sure you get the support bars for the fixtures. Support the fixtures from
the t-bar you have to install for the drop ceiling. The fixture housing
and/or the support bars will allow you to mount these fixtures such that the
"housing" is flush with the bottom of the drop-in tile. The "trim" will be
installed after the ceiling tile so you can cut the tile to accommodate the
housing opening. The proper trim will have a trim ring slightly bigger than
the opening in the housing to cover up the cut out in the tile.

Your process should be something like this:

1. Install ceiling tile grid.
2. Install and wire pot light housings on the above noted grid. Locate as
you wish.
3. Cut out and install ceiling tiles to suit pot light housing locations.
4. Install pot light trims.

Ceiling tiles themselves are NOT sufficient to support your pot lights. The
pot light housing should be supported by the metal grid for the drop ceiling
using the appropriate support bars.

A support system consisting of "rope, and an eye here and there" should only
be used if you plan on using bubble gum and shoe laces to support your t-bar
ceiling. Should that be the case it will not be long before you are cleaning
your ceiling up off of the floor, along with your pot lights.

Regards,

Doug





LinkBot





Other archives available: Cellular phones topics archive | Web Design forum archive | Software help archive | Hardware reviews archive | Programming topics archive

Copyright 2004 - 2008 homeownerschat.com