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Home > Archive > Building and Construction > June 2006 > garage air conditioning?
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garage air conditioning?
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| I want to cool my garage with a window unit AC. I have no windows however
and the wall I'd like to place it on is wood frame with brick veneer.
I have never done any brick work, much less cut a hole in an existing wall.
I know there will need to be a steel support member to hold up the top row
and support all bricks above it; what about the other three sides? Maybe
best to weld up a steel frame and put it in place or would a wood structure
be more acceptable? Really looking for some basic advice here
Mike in DFW
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| Steve Barker LT 2006-06-18, 1:25 pm |
| Put it near the ceiling and you won't have to worry about the header. Just
wood frame the rest. A high mount is better for A/C anyway.
--
Steve Barker
"mike" <atxguy@NOMORESPAMcomcast.com> wrote in message
news:K7adnVu8brG11gjZnZ2dnUVZ_tmdnZ2d@comcast.com...
>I want to cool my garage with a window unit AC. I have no windows however
>and the wall I'd like to place it on is wood frame with brick veneer.
>
> I have never done any brick work, much less cut a hole in an existing
> wall. I know there will need to be a steel support member to hold up the
> top row and support all bricks above it; what about the other three sides?
> Maybe best to weld up a steel frame and put it in place or would a wood
> structure be more acceptable? Really looking for some basic advice here
>
> Mike in DFW
>
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"Steve Barker LT" <railphotonut@not.hotmail.com> wrote in
message news:Tmflg.2714$Ck6.1458@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com
A high mount is
> better for A/C anyway.
> --
> Steve Barker
I always wanted my cooled air down low and leave the hot air at
the top alone if I can. Not disturbed, it makes a good "cap".
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| Al Bundy 2006-06-18, 9:25 pm |
| "Glenn" <pilcheg@kc.rr.com> wrote in news:kAflg.3381$6C.667@tornado.rdc-
kc.rr.com:
>
>
> "Steve Barker LT" <railphotonut@not.hotmail.com> wrote in
> message news:Tmflg.2714$Ck6.1458@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com
> A high mount is
>
> I always wanted my cooled air down low and leave the hot air at
> the top alone if I can. Not disturbed, it makes a good "cap".
>
>
Glenn! I've been saying similar to that for years! I'm in an area now
where AC stays on all summer pretty much. Ceiling fans are staples in a
house and are a detractor by appraisers is not there.
I never run the things in summer. Why do I want to suck the hotter air
down? So the upper air can cool? Maybe false logic. I dunno.
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| "Glenn" <pilcheg@kc.rr.com> wrote in message
news:kAflg.3381$6C.667@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
>
> "Steve Barker LT" <railphotonut@not.hotmail.com> wrote in
> message news:Tmflg.2714$Ck6.1458@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com
> A high mount is
>
> I always wanted my cooled air down low and leave the hot air at the top
> alone if I can. Not disturbed, it makes a good "cap".
>
Makes sense if you have 20' high ceilings throughout the building. Standard
8' walls/ceiling, if the occupants are all of the "little" people category
--
Jonny.
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| Phil Scott 2006-06-19, 1:25 pm |
|
--
Phil Scott
Ideas are bullet proof.
"Al Bundy" <postmaster@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
news:Xns97E6DF1D3E61AAlBundy@216.196.97.142...
> "Glenn" <pilcheg@kc.rr.com> wrote in
> news:kAflg.3381$6C.667@tornado.rdc-
> kc.rr.com:
>
>
> Glenn! I've been saying similar to that for years! I'm in an
> area now
> where AC stays on all summer pretty much. Ceiling fans are
> staples in a
> house and are a detractor by appraisers is not there.
>
> I never run the things in summer. Why do I want to suck the
> hotter air
> down? So the upper air can cool? Maybe false logic. I dunno.
The breeze provides skin surface cooling that lowers the
'effective temperature' 3 to 5 degrees...thats in the ASHRAE
manuals etc.
However you are right about the hot air cap...and it is taken
into account on commercial industrial jobs with high ceilings
and high dead air spaces.
in a home with an 8' ceiling its a closer call...air movement
advantages vs the hot air cap as you call it.
If you have ac running you get enough turbulence in the room
to ruin the hot air cap anyway...so a fan in that case would
be a net advantage.
If your house had 10' ceilings...and a cool slab floor or high
thermal mass walls. then letting the hot air rise would be a
net advantage.
I think the next big thing in heating and air cond will be
spot cooling and heating... matress warmers at night can
allow you to run the house down to 45 or 50 degrees at night
and stay warm in bed.
There are ways to zone cool just parts of a room
also...(vertical laminar flow air screens)... a column of cool
air circulated over say your easy chair or mini office
....cutting net cooling costs by 80% or so for two reasons...
increased air velocity over the skin, and not having to cool
the entire house.
such air screens would be like we see in semi conductor clean
rooms today... a 6" raised pad under the zone as a return..and
over head a laminar flow fan and cooling coil..(laminar means
not turbulent, but slow flow. less than 200' fpm, that keeps
the air inside the zone and not cooling the rest of the
room...just the column between the ceiling and the raised
floor)
I think we will see slightly cooled chairs also..not cold
chairs but chairs with cooling coils so they stay at say 80
degrees F, not getting warm... this will further reduce the
need to keep the room cool. if you can raise room temps from
72 to 78 you will cut net energy consumption in most
situations by 70% or so (annually). If you add zone cooling
to that you can cut the costs more....I think in some cases
you can get a 90% reduction in operating costs if you are
willing to have a few semi unconfortable moments.
Phil Scott
| |
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| What about using one of the stand alone units that pipe out the hot air in a
4" tube. Takes up floor space but perhaps an easier install.
| |
| Al Bundy 2006-06-20, 3:25 am |
| "Phil Scott" <philscott@philscott.net> wrote in news:e76efj$cv7$1
@news.tdl.com:
>
> The breeze provides skin surface cooling that lowers the
> 'effective temperature' 3 to 5 degrees...thats in the ASHRAE
> manuals etc.
Easily believable. I had just wondered if the 3 to 5 deg was offset by
the warmer air but I guess what you are saying is 3-5 deg NET?
ASHRAE manuals? Remember, "I'm just a professional wanna-be...and a damn
good one".
>
> However you are right about the hot air cap...and it is taken
> into account on commercial industrial jobs with high ceilings
> and high dead air spaces.
>
> in a home with an 8' ceiling its a closer call...air movement
> advantages vs the hot air cap as you call it.
8' isn't much as you say and would be a closer call. When you are
standing on a ladder painting or the like (with fan off mind you), it
sure feels a lot warmer doesn't it?! Or if you're laying on the floor
with a kid, critter or just plain drunk, it feels a bit cooler.
>
> If you have ac running you get enough turbulence in the room
> to ruin the hot air cap anyway...so a fan in that case would
> be a net advantage.
Makes sense since the ducts are high up.
>
> If your house had 10' ceilings...and a cool slab floor or high
> thermal mass walls. then letting the hot air rise would be a
> net advantage.
>
Current one I'm redoing has vaulted ceilings, 14' at the high point.
Mutha f'er is it warm up there!
>
> I think the next big thing in heating and air cond will be
> spot cooling and heating... matress warmers at night can
> allow you to run the house down to 45 or 50 degrees at night
> and stay warm in bed.
>
> There are ways to zone cool just parts of a room
> also...(vertical laminar flow air screens)... a column of cool
> air circulated over say your easy chair or mini office
> ...cutting net cooling costs by 80% or so for two reasons...
> increased air velocity over the skin, and not having to cool
> the entire house.
>
> such air screens would be like we see in semi conductor clean
> rooms today... a 6" raised pad under the zone as a return..and
> over head a laminar flow fan and cooling coil..(laminar means
> not turbulent, but slow flow. less than 200' fpm, that keeps
> the air inside the zone and not cooling the rest of the
> room...just the column between the ceiling and the raised
> floor)
>
>
> I think we will see slightly cooled chairs also..not cold
> chairs but chairs with cooling coils so they stay at say 80
> degrees F, not getting warm... this will further reduce the
> need to keep the room cool. if you can raise room temps from
> 72 to 78 you will cut net energy consumption in most
> situations by 70% or so (annually). If you add zone cooling
> to that you can cut the costs more....I think in some cases
> you can get a 90% reduction in operating costs if you are
> willing to have a few semi unconfortable moments.
>
I keep it at 77 anyway. That dehumidified setting is fine for me
considering outside the temp & humidity are 90+.
Hey, here's a goofy question that just popped into my head. Everybody
knows about the hot/cold air rising thing. Does the humidity remain
relatively the same in all the air?
>
>
>
>
> Phil Scott
>
>
| |
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| floor space is something that I am short on right now. I might consider it
though if I found a large enough BTU unit that would cool the entire 2car
garage effectively
MRT in DFW
"dino" <dino1@nospamaustin.rr.com> wrote in message
news:05Hlg.11901$JW5.7691@tornado.texas.rr.com...
> What about using one of the stand alone units that pipe out the hot air in
> a
> 4" tube. Takes up floor space but perhaps an easier install.
>
>
| |
| Judanne 2006-06-21, 8:25 pm |
| Now this may sound silly but I have NEVER heard of anyone before wanting to
air condition their garage. Can you let me know why, please? Is it used as
a rec room? Does your car get temperamental? ;~)
Judanne
Tasmania (where no air conditioning is needed, but a heat pump would be
handy right now!)
"mike" <atxguy@NOMORESPAMcomcast.com> wrote in message
news:K7adnVu8brG11gjZnZ2dnUVZ_tmdnZ2d@comcast.com...
>I want to cool my garage with a window unit AC. I have no windows however
>and the wall I'd like to place it on is wood frame with brick veneer.
>
> I have never done any brick work, much less cut a hole in an existing
> wall. I know there will need to be a steel support member to hold up the
> top row and support all bricks above it; what about the other three sides?
> Maybe best to weld up a steel frame and put it in place or would a wood
> structure be more acceptable? Really looking for some basic advice here
>
> Mike in DFW
>
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| Grumman-581 2006-06-24, 3:25 am |
| On Thu, 22 Jun 2006 01:19:21 GMT, "Judanne" <judanne@bigpond.net.au>
wrote:
> Now this may sound silly but I have NEVER heard of anyone before wanting to
> air condition their garage. Can you let me know why, please? Is it used as
> a rec room? Does your car get temperamental? ;~)
If you live in a hot climate and you sometimes work on your own car or
have a workshop in there, having it air-conditioned is very nice... On
my previous house, I put an 8,000 BTU window unit into one of the
windows and it made enough of a difference that it was bearable to
work in there... Open the garage door was not an option since it was
so humid that it was uncomfortable to work in there... Plus, it would
let in the mosquitos at night... Garages should be sheathed,
insulated, and have wallboard (sheetrock, etc) up so that you can at
least have the option of air-conditioning it at a later date... My
current garage has none of these and as such, air-conditioning it
would be a pain since the air would leak out from between the siding
planks... I'm slowly caulking all the siding gaps from the inside with
Liquid Nails... I figure that if I can at least get the air to not
leak out of there, I might have a chance is getting the temperature
and humidity bearable in there...
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| My garage is my play room so to speak. I am on a hiatus from my antique
jukebox restoration hobby and am restoring a 72 Cuda right now. The summer
months here in Texas will bring plenty of 100+ degree days. Even with the
door open it can get pretty miserable.
Also, its not just any garage - the walls are finished out with white
semi-gloss paint and the floor has been coated with Sherwin-XXXXXXXX high
gloss Tile-Clad epoxy garage floor coating system. (If I dropped a screw I
wanted to be able to find it.)
I wanted to hide clutter but keep a clean look, so I bought the Home Depot
plain white wall cabinets with the european style hidden hinges. Kind've
expensive, very retro looking and do the job well. I also installed a wall
mounted TV, a mini halogen track light system that lights up a pro dart
board and a large neon clock.
Its a cool place to hang out - I would just like it to be comfortable as
well
MRT
"Grumman-581" <grumman581@DIE-SPAMMER-SCUM-gmail.com> wrote in message
news:lmnp92hsa7fh2jlmjbejr6nkleu3ki4b9o@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 22 Jun 2006 01:19:21 GMT, "Judanne" <judanne@bigpond.net.au>
> wrote:
>
> If you live in a hot climate and you sometimes work on your own car or
> have a workshop in there, having it air-conditioned is very nice... On
> my previous house, I put an 8,000 BTU window unit into one of the
> windows and it made enough of a difference that it was bearable to
> work in there... Open the garage door was not an option since it was
> so humid that it was uncomfortable to work in there... Plus, it would
> let in the mosquitos at night... Garages should be sheathed,
> insulated, and have wallboard (sheetrock, etc) up so that you can at
> least have the option of air-conditioning it at a later date... My
> current garage has none of these and as such, air-conditioning it
> would be a pain since the air would leak out from between the siding
> planks... I'm slowly caulking all the siding gaps from the inside with
> Liquid Nails... I figure that if I can at least get the air to not
> leak out of there, I might have a chance is getting the temperature
> and humidity bearable in there...
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| Judanne 2006-06-25, 9:25 am |
| Thanks, guys. Makes sense. I have lived in the tropics and sub tropics in
the past, but not being the sort who works on cars, never thought about
that. Here, the temp rarely gets over 30 C (around 86 F) so there is really
no need.
Judanne
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