|
|
|
|
| Phil Scott 2006-06-21, 3:25 am |
|
--
Phil Scott
Ideas are bullet proof.
<towelfury@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1150868442.465436.21320@c74g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> Hi,
>
> I would like some comments on this joist:
>
> http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/17101354562.jpg&s=f5
>
> Thanks
its not OK... most likely. Depends on the rest of the
construction though. it looks like pipng wall above may have
fallen directly over the joist forcing plumber to locate pipe
there...its still not Ok. thats bad wall lay out,if the sub
floor was installed then the walls were laid out,,,an error.
but it happens.
what to do is another issue.
box in the cut joist so it is supported by the adjacent ones,
and maybe support it with a post from below...edpends on the
loads and exact location
Could possibly sister it on either side of where the pipe was
routed.
forgiveness is a virtue.... so is close observation.
Phil Scott
>
| |
|
|
| longshot 2006-06-21, 9:25 am |
|
<towelfury@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1150868442.465436.21320@c74g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> Hi,
>
> I would like some comments on this joist:
>
> http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/17101354562.jpg&s=f5
>
> Thanks
close enough to the outside wall to not worry about it, likely. is it a
toilet drain? what sits directly above it?
if its under cabinets i wouldn't even worry about it. if its a toilet, I'd
probably go ahead & sister it up or a steel bracket over it with bolts
jmo
Rob
| |
| Shannon Pate 2006-06-21, 9:25 am |
| Obviously, that joist is no longer useful.
There are a couple of possible options.
1. You can install headers on each side of the pipe, connecting the
offending joist to the too good joists on each side. This should be done
with joist hangers. That will spread allow the other joists to carry the
load that was carried by the cut joist.
2. Since the pipe drops below the floor system, you might be able to
install a new joist on each side of the pipe. Then you would still meet the
required spacing between joists.
A couple of posts mention sistering. That would work, but I think the pipe
is protruding on both sides of the joist, so sistering may still be
difficult.
Shannon Pate
<towelfury@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1150868442.465436.21320@c74g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> Hi,
>
> I would like some comments on this joist:
>
> http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/17101354562.jpg&s=f5
>
> Thanks
>
| |
|
|
| crhras 2006-06-21, 5:25 pm |
|
I would move the pipe about 16 inches to the left.
<towelfury@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1150868442.465436.21320@c74g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> Hi,
>
> I would like some comments on this joist:
>
> http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/17101354562.jpg&s=f5
>
> Thanks
>
| |
|
| Plumber should have used an offset flange and put in 45 degree elbows for
better flow. At most would have nicked the top of the joist by about a 1/2 "
<towelfury@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1150868442.465436.21320@c74g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> Hi,
>
> I would like some comments on this joist:
>
> http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/17101354562.jpg&s=f5
>
> Thanks
>
| |
|
| That was my first thought but have you ever known the *average*
plumber think of that? Some of the good ones but not most of 'em.
I have seen them laugh cutting it. Right before I fired them.
"Alan" <ajalanNOSPAMMAIL@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:HKmdnd6fYbsnWgTZnZ2dnUVZ_tCdnZ2d@comcast.com[color=darkred]
> Plumber should have used an offset flange and put in 45
> degree elbows for better flow. At most would have nicked
> the top of the joist by about a 1/2 "
>
> <towelfury@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1150868442.465436.21320@c74g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
| |
|
| One thing that no one else has pointed out: by code you cannot use a sanitary
tee on its back. It needs to come out and be replaced with a Y or a combo
fitting. That along with an offset flange would have avoided the problem
anyway.
--
Dennis
| |
| RicodJour 2006-06-22, 9:25 am |
|
DT wrote:
> One thing that no one else has pointed out: by code you cannot use a sanitary
> tee on its back. It needs to come out and be replaced with a Y or a combo
> fitting. That along with an offset flange would have avoided the problem
> anyway.
Good call. I was looking at the wood, but you're right. The plumber
already had the sawzall out of the truck and he was going to use it,
even if the correct fittings would have eliminated the cutting.
My read? One angry plumber with an axe to grind.
R
| |
| longshot 2006-06-22, 1:25 pm |
|
>
> Good call. I was looking at the wood, but you're right. The plumber
> already had the sawzall out of the truck and he was going to use it,
> even if the correct fittings would have eliminated the cutting.
>
> My read? One angry plumber with an axe to grind.
my read? a do-it-yourselfer without a clue
| |
|
|
| RicodJour 2006-06-22, 1:25 pm |
| longshot wrote:
>
> my read? a do-it-yourselfer without a clue
Possible, I suppose, but I don't see it. The construction is too clean
- usually a DIYer without a clue starts cutting corners early on.
Everything in that picture looks fine except for the plumbing. Almost
everything. The subfloor nails that missed the joist are a red flag.
Probably time to break out the fine-toothed comb and start working on
the punchlist.
R
| |
|
| Had to be diy'er.
Can you imagine an inspector letting this go by?
--
remove one of the @'s unless you are a spammer.
"longshot" <longshot@aol.com> wrote in message
news:6iymg.10383$1G2.8081@trnddc06...
>
>
> my read? a do-it-yourselfer without a clue
>
| |
|
|
"Bill" <bargerw@@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:XZzmg.1832$Ju2.412@bignews1.bellsouth.net
> Had to be diy'er.
> Can you imagine an inspector letting this go by?
Yes, I can. But get a wall plug 2" farther apart than the
required amount from the adjacent one and he will catch that.
I once had a wall in a basement with a projection 3" out and 6"
wide for a drain pipe. This inspector measured out the 3" and
back the 3" and added those 6" to the spacing and made my
electrician add another plug because that made him 4" too wide.
Takes all kinds when you give a dummy authority.
>
> --
> remove one of the @'s unless you are a spammer.
> "longshot" <longshot@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:6iymg.10383$1G2.8081@trnddc06...
| |
| HerHusband 2006-06-22, 1:25 pm |
| > I would like some comments on this joist:
> http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/17101354562.jpg&s=f5
I assume this is a toilet flange?
If you had the space, I would have shifted the toilet a couple of inches to
clear the joist. In any case, the damage is already done.
First, as another poster mentioned, I would replace that tee with a "y".
Then, I would add joists on either side of the pipe, or else install
blocking with joist hangers to carry the load for that cut joist (just like
you would do for any floor opening).
Anthony
| |
| RicodJour 2006-06-22, 5:25 pm |
| HerHusband wrote:
>
> I assume this is a toilet flange?
>
> If you had the space, I would have shifted the toilet a couple of inches to
> clear the joist. In any case, the damage is already done.
>
> First, as another poster mentioned, I would replace that tee with a "y".
>
> Then, I would add joists on either side of the pipe, or else install
> blocking with joist hangers to carry the load for that cut joist (just like
> you would do for any floor opening).
Did you notice all of the screws/nails coming down through the
subfloor? I guess there's a tile floor up there. Not a good situation
when you have to start messing with compromised framing under a tile
floor.
The OP certainly left enough interpretation room with his minimalist
post. I wonder what the actual situation is and whether it was a
licensed contractor and what the inspector had to say about it.
R
| |
| HerHusband 2006-06-23, 1:25 pm |
| > Did you notice all of the screws/nails coming down through the
> subfloor? I guess there's a tile floor up there.
Yeah, I noticed those, but there really wasn't enough information to go on.
I "assumed" that since the plumbing was just being installed and there was
no insulation, that this house was still under construction. So, probably
no tile or other floor covering installed yet.
The protruding nails were probably just poorly aimed subfloor nails that
missed the joist.
I also noticed a pretty good sized beam on the back side of the pipe, and
the spacing "looked" to be about 16" or so anyway. It's hard to tell just
by looking at the picture, but it may not be as big of a deal as it looks.
I'd still add in an extra joist or two, or add blocking to support the cut
joist. Even if tile is installed above, this could be done without too much
trouble. I'd probably run a bead of construction adhesive along the top of
the new joists to reduce squeaks, in case the subfloor couldn't be nailed
from above.
> what the inspector had to say about it.
Inspectors usually don't have the time, or interest, to look at everything.
My inspectors looked at the plumbing above the floor, but they didn't even
attempt to crawl down into the crawlspace to see what was done underneath.
Even though that's where the majority of the plumbing and structural
changes were located. They simply judged my overall work by what they could
see easily walking through the house. Of course, if they saw something
really out of whack, they may have taken a closer look at the rest of the
plumbing.
Obviously, I tried to go above and beyond the code minimum, but I don't
know everything and mistakes happen. Everything works great in the end, but
I doubt most folks, especially amateurs like myself, would invest that much
time and effort to do things the "right" way.
Anthony
|
|
|
|