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Basement Framing - windows
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| Questions or Answers... 2006-06-21, 5:25 pm |
| I am finishing the basement & can't decide what to do to prep the
window ledge for finishing. The windows are set back in the concrete
5" from the inside framing. So from the outside to the inside there is
the window, a 5" concrete ledge and then the 3.5" stud. I need to
build up this 8.5" span about 3/4" to put the drywall at the right
height - but I don't think I'm supposed to use plywood since part of it
is going to be sitting on the concrete. A treated 2x8 (which still
wouldn't be wide enough) would be way too thick.
Am I off base here or do I just use the 3/4" plywood? 'el inspector'
will be visiting the new work, so I just want to do this once.
Thanks,
Pat
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| bambam@nospam.tnx 2006-06-22, 1:25 pm |
| On 21 Jun 2006 14:55:34 -0700, "Questions or Answers..."
<patlindsay@hotmail.com> wrote:
>I am finishing the basement & can't decide what to do to prep the
>window ledge for finishing. The windows are set back in the concrete
>5" from the inside framing. So from the outside to the inside there is
>the window, a 5" concrete ledge and then the 3.5" stud. I need to
>build up this 8.5" span about 3/4" to put the drywall at the right
>height - but I don't think I'm supposed to use plywood since part of it
>is going to be sitting on the concrete. A treated 2x8 (which still
>wouldn't be wide enough) would be way too thick.
>
What you're framing is called a return. Our normal practice is
drywall on the top and two sides, medex or plywood on the bottom.
"El inspector" is interested in safety codes, not window returns.
Ken
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| i am only an amatuer, so I don't know code, but you can drywall or panelling
at right angles directly up to the windows, or thereabouts, and use various
wood trim with the panelling, and drywall. Like L and L)with panelling
Nothing wrong with either. And some silicone. Curtains or shades can fit
right in the box. Or you could use wood, or manmade woodlike materials with
the standard casing and reveal on the wood(like) edge. Say 3/4" thick. May
want to paint mdf (just a thought). Tonnes of casings/baseboards are made
of this. Much cheaper. Just make sure eventual distance from finished
product to edges of windows are equal and same; at least not random. Do not
use a level distance to floor as final determinator.
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| I meant to make smooth steel edges for the drywall. Can't read your
question too well. You can use poly and fibre drywall tape for inside
wood(like) window ledge edges before prime/paint. Actually I think the best
way is to router or saw a dado in an approximate sized box of wood(like)
material, so you have true permanent case that can expand/contract, and
easily paintable.
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| ya know, for doors, you do a rabbett and dado, not a full dado. Maybe same
for windows. Geez, get a book; seriously, don't take my word for it.
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| noone@butme.com 2006-06-24, 3:25 am |
| On 21 Jun 2006 14:55:34 -0700, "Questions or Answers..."
<patlindsay@hotmail.com> wrote:
>I am finishing the basement & can't decide what to do to prep the
>window ledge for finishing. The windows are set back in the concrete
>5" from the inside framing. So from the outside to the inside there is
>the window, a 5" concrete ledge and then the 3.5" stud. I need to
>build up this 8.5" span about 3/4" to put the drywall at the right
>height - but I don't think I'm supposed to use plywood since part of it
>is going to be sitting on the concrete. A treated 2x8 (which still
>wouldn't be wide enough) would be way too thick.
>
>Am I off base here or do I just use the 3/4" plywood? 'el inspector'
>will be visiting the new work, so I just want to do this once.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Pat
use extension jambs. butted up to the window, ran out to the face of
the finished wall. use treated plywood, ripped down to the correct
size. use a vapor barrier
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| ok I'll shut up ater this. If you are talking about the inside/window part
search stool and apron window construction, etc. where there is real wood
window construction, an overhanging bottom ledge and returned moulding
underneath. Part built in/ part box I guess. The craftsmans style with
cuts, filler, stain, and clear finish. I've only ever used the studs for a
box, which I guess could be the same.
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