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Home > Archive > Building and Construction > July 2006 > Re: Can you place anchors in a concrete slab at a later date?
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Re: Can you place anchors in a concrete slab at a later date?
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| Eric in North TX 2006-07-14, 8:25 pm |
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> Best idea I've seen yet. To embellish this use a fairly long
> threaded bolt, put on several nuts with large washers between
> each. Install only loose finger tight so they don't bind removing
> the bolt
I couldn't envision what you were saying at first, now I get it, not
just yeah, but hell yeah
That would be cheap, effective and bullet proof.
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| This is an interesting thread with a lot of pertinent info for my project.
Last week, one of the neigborhood kids was attempting a dive off my diving
board when the support bolts broke. No one was hurt but it did create a bit
of drama for the afternoon
The diving board mounts with two bolts to a boat-shaped fiberglass base. The
base is anchored to the concrete decking with 6 anchors with three at the
front of the base and three at the rear. Am not that familiar with these
fasteners but they are about 1/2" dia, serrated and pointed. They are plenty
rusted and I could barely make out the remnants of what must have been nuts
and some yellow plastic caps for these studs. May be these were Ramset type?
Anyhow, I need to fix this and was going to cut them off flush as they only
extend about 1" above grade and are not long enough to try and reattach
with. The rear bolts will be in tension when the board is in use. Will the
regular Home Depot 1/2" anchors would be enough? Reading this thread,
perhaps the epoxy might not be a bad idea.
Finally, whats the best method to rust proof these? Krylon paint or ?
TIA
Mike in DFW, Texas
"marson" <briankontio@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1152920266.580722.119820@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com...
> in my town, the local building inspector requires either a j bolt or a
> 5/8 expansion anchor drilled 7" into the concrete. yeah, it's overkill,
> but that's what they want. they also make a deal that is basically a
> piece of rebar with a female threaded end. it can be flush with the
> top of the pour, and then a piece of threaded rod can be screwed in
> later.
>
> Eric in North TX wrote:
>
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"marson" <briankontio@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1152975332.524568.177490@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com
> in a situation like that i would think spending a few
> extra bucks on stainless would be worth while. some of
> our engineer friends here might post with some good
> advice,but off hand, i would look into epoxing in
> stainless threaded rod (provided you have access to an
> air compressor to clean the holes). i just don't trust
> espansion bolts for critical connections.
>
I have never seen tables on stainless verses bright steel but I
know with stainless screws, they twist off twice as easy as bright
steel so you might want to up the size one notch to compensate for
that to make them equal to new steel.
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