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Home > Archive > Building and Construction > August 2006 > detached garage insulation- vapor barrier needed?
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detached garage insulation- vapor barrier needed?
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| beerguzzler50@yahoo.com 2006-08-10, 1:25 pm |
| I have a wood framed detached garage that I would like to insulate. I
only plan on heating it a few times a year when I have a project to do
or something I have to fix in winter (I live in upstate NY) with a
portable heater. The garage is wrapped on the outside with Tyvek over
the plywood and covered with vinyl siding. I plan on using r13
fiberglass insulation on the sides and r19 in the ceiling.
Is there any reason why I should use kraft faced in this situation? It
is more expensive and I have a vapor barrier already with the Tyvek
right? I will be covering the inside with 5/8 drywall on both walls
and ceiling.
Thanks.
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| Joseph Meehan 2006-08-10, 5:25 pm |
| beerguzzler50@yahoo.com wrote:
> I have a wood framed detached garage that I would like to insulate. I
> only plan on heating it a few times a year when I have a project to do
> or something I have to fix in winter (I live in upstate NY) with a
> portable heater. The garage is wrapped on the outside with Tyvek over
> the plywood and covered with vinyl siding. I plan on using r13
> fiberglass insulation on the sides and r19 in the ceiling.
>
> Is there any reason why I should use kraft faced in this situation?
> It is more expensive and I have a vapor barrier already with the Tyvek
> right? I will be covering the inside with 5/8 drywall on both walls
> and ceiling.
>
> Thanks.
I doubt if I would use a vapor barrier under those circumstances.
--
Joseph Meehan
Dia duit
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| Bob Morrison 2006-08-10, 5:25 pm |
| In a previous post beerguzzler50@yahoo.com wrote...
> Is there any reason why I should use kraft faced in this situation? It
> is more expensive and I have a vapor barrier already with the Tyvek
> right? I will be covering the inside with 5/8 drywall on both walls
> and ceiling.
>
Yes you should because the vapor barrier should always be installed on the
warm side of the wall. The Tyvek is intended to keep rainwater from
getting to the sheathing. It also has the advantage of letting out any
moisture that may get through the interior vapor barrier.
The cost of kraft face insulation isn't that much more than unfaced
insulation and for the average DIY'er it install much easier.
--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com
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| yea
tyvek keeps water out and lets vapor through
from what i understand
but you dont want bare insulation in a garage where
you are doing projects
just think of how nasty its gonna get with sawdust
or body filler dust getting in the fiberglass
There is something called Tileboard its like pegboard
material cant think of it right now but it comes in many
styles and is supose to be used in bathrooms although
i would never use it there.
its not real cheap but it would make your garage much
more liveable and not cost so much
OR
lots of times you can goto a home depot or Lowes and
they will have drywall that has been dammaged on the edges
by some fool that cant drive a forklift
you could pick that up for $2-3 a sheet and mud the heck
out of it
its kinda hit or miss that there will be any there when you
need it so you might endup doing half a wall every couple
months until you get it done.
bob marencin
www.yourepair.com
"Bob Morrison" <SpamFighter@junk.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.1f4529de30005f0b989be7@news.west.earthlink.net...
> In a previous post beerguzzler50@yahoo.com wrote...
>
> Yes you should because the vapor barrier should always be installed on the
> warm side of the wall. The Tyvek is intended to keep rainwater from
> getting to the sheathing. It also has the advantage of letting out any
> moisture that may get through the interior vapor barrier.
>
> The cost of kraft face insulation isn't that much more than unfaced
> insulation and for the average DIY'er it install much easier.
>
> --
> Bob Morrison, PE, SE
> R L Morrison Engineering Co
> Structural & Civil Engineering
> Poulsbo WA
> bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com
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| Tom The Great 2006-08-11, 9:25 am |
| On 10 Aug 2006 07:27:11 -0700, beerguzzler50@yahoo.com wrote:
>I have a wood framed detached garage that I would like to insulate. I
>only plan on heating it a few times a year when I have a project to do
>or something I have to fix in winter (I live in upstate NY) with a
>portable heater. The garage is wrapped on the outside with Tyvek over
>the plywood and covered with vinyl siding. I plan on using r13
>fiberglass insulation on the sides and r19 in the ceiling.
>
>Is there any reason why I should use kraft faced in this situation? It
>is more expensive and I have a vapor barrier already with the Tyvek
>right? I will be covering the inside with 5/8 drywall on both walls
>and ceiling.
>
>Thanks.
imho,
The vapor barrior is intended on keeping warm most air from entering
the insulation, and then condensing as it migrates to cooler spots of
the insulation. Since you don't want trapped moisture in your
insulation, could create mold conditions, reduce insulation
properties, expose wood studs to to rotting; you want to use a
moisture barrior on the inside face of the insulation.
later,
tom @ www.WorkAtHomePlans.com
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| inspector.terry@gmail.com 2006-08-11, 8:25 pm |
|
Tom The Great wrote:
> On 10 Aug 2006 07:27:11 -0700, beerguzzler50@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>
> imho,
>
> The vapor barrior is intended on keeping warm most air from entering
> the insulation, and then condensing as it migrates to cooler spots of
> the insulation. Since you don't want trapped moisture in your
> insulation, could create mold conditions, reduce insulation
> properties, expose wood studs to to rotting; you want to use a
> moisture barrior on the inside face of the insulation.
>
> later,
>
> tom @ www.WorkAtHomePlans.com
Tom is right and it is a CODE requirement in most areas to use vapor
barrier. If cost is a problem you can use regular batting and plastic
over that as a vapor barrier if it is approved in your area.
Terry North
Combination Building Inspector
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| Tom The Great 2006-08-12, 5:25 pm |
| On 11 Aug 2006 16:26:14 -0700, "inspector.terry@gmail.com"
<inspector.terry@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>Tom The Great wrote:
>
>Tom is right and it is a CODE requirement in most areas to use vapor
>barrier. If cost is a problem you can use regular batting and plastic
>over that as a vapor barrier if it is approved in your area.
>
>Terry North
>Combination Building Inspector
Using unfaced stuff, and then one continuous vapor barrier, such as
poly, seems like a great idea. fewer penitrations for moisture
migration, and might cut down on any future drafts.
later,
tom
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| I am in Ontario, across the lake from NY, and my garage gets very damp in
winter with water dripping off cars, caused me to think that it is best to
line it with a poly vapour barrier. It is cheap insurance against rot and
mould, do it to avoid future problems.
<beerguzzler50@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1155220031.914885.142560@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...
>I have a wood framed detached garage that I would like to insulate. I
> only plan on heating it a few times a year when I have a project to do
> or something I have to fix in winter (I live in upstate NY) with a
> portable heater. The garage is wrapped on the outside with Tyvek over
> the plywood and covered with vinyl siding. I plan on using r13
> fiberglass insulation on the sides and r19 in the ceiling.
>
> Is there any reason why I should use kraft faced in this situation? It
> is more expensive and I have a vapor barrier already with the Tyvek
> right? I will be covering the inside with 5/8 drywall on both walls
> and ceiling.
>
> Thanks.
>
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| beerguzzler50@yahoo.com 2006-08-16, 9:25 am |
| OK I am convinced that a vapor barrier is needed. Would Kraft faced be
sufficient or should I also use poly?
EXT wrote:[color=darkred]
> I am in Ontario, across the lake from NY, and my garage gets very damp in
> winter with water dripping off cars, caused me to think that it is best to
> line it with a poly vapour barrier. It is cheap insurance against rot and
> mould, do it to avoid future problems.
>
> <beerguzzler50@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1155220031.914885.142560@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...
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