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Home > Archive > Building and Construction > August 2006 > Help needed
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| Sandra S Beall 2006-08-10, 1:25 pm |
| Can anyone here help??
I need a link or information that will guide me in installing sheetrock on
the ceiling of a room I have enclosed. The problem is that there is already
plywood on the ceiling and I don't plan on removing it. This was a carport
that I have enclosed. Anyway, I understand about placement of sheetrock,
but since the plywood is currently installed in the way that the sheetrock
is supposed to be installed, do I follow the plywood, or do I put in the
sheetrock in what I would call is perpendicular to the way the ceiling
members run?
The reason I do not want to remove the plywood is that there is blown in
insulation in the attic which includes the part over the carport (now a new
room)
Thanks so much
--
Sandra S. Beall
Huntsville Alabama
| |
|
| I see little problem here. I would make sure the plywood is
nailed up tight and I would try to not get my rock joints over a
plywood joint (break them up). Still, put your joints on the
joists, don't just screw to the plywood. Have at it!
"Sandra S Beall" <bealls-2001@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:BbCdnUOOEZR48UbZnZ2dnUVZ_tWdnZ2d@comcast.com
> Can anyone here help??
>
> I need a link or information that will guide me in
> installing sheetrock on the ceiling of a room I have
> enclosed. The problem is that there is already plywood
> on the ceiling and I don't plan on removing it. This
> was a carport that I have enclosed. Anyway, I understand
> about placement of sheetrock, but since the plywood is
> currently installed in the way that the sheetrock is
> supposed to be installed, do I follow the plywood, or do
> I put in the sheetrock in what I would call is
> perpendicular to the way the ceiling members run?
> The reason I do not want to remove the plywood is that
> there is blown in insulation in the attic which includes
> the part over the carport (now a new room)
>
>
> Thanks so much
>
> --
> Sandra S. Beall
> Huntsville Alabama
| |
| longshot 2006-08-10, 5:25 pm |
| I really don't see any problem with screwing the drywall right to the
plywood. as long as the plywood is attached sufficiently
"Sandra S Beall" <bealls-2001@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:BbCdnUOOEZR48UbZnZ2dnUVZ_tWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
> Can anyone here help??
>
> I need a link or information that will guide me in installing sheetrock on
> the ceiling of a room I have enclosed. The problem is that there is
> already plywood on the ceiling and I don't plan on removing it. This was
> a carport that I have enclosed. Anyway, I understand about placement of
> sheetrock, but since the plywood is currently installed in the way that
> the sheetrock is supposed to be installed, do I follow the plywood, or do
> I put in the sheetrock in what I would call is perpendicular to the way
> the ceiling members run?
>
> The reason I do not want to remove the plywood is that there is blown in
> insulation in the attic which includes the part over the carport (now a
> new room)
>
>
> Thanks so much
>
> --
> Sandra S. Beall
> Huntsville Alabama
>
| |
|
| Chances are it is only 1/4", not solid enough to screw to.
"longshot" <longshot@aol.com> wrote in message
news:OSKCg.62325$gU4.2130@trnddc07[color=darkred]
>I really don't see any problem with screwing the drywall
> right to the plywood. as long as the plywood is attached
> sufficiently
>
> "Sandra S Beall" <bealls-2001@comcast.net> wrote in
> message
> news:BbCdnUOOEZR48UbZnZ2dnUVZ_tWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
| |
| longshot 2006-08-10, 5:25 pm |
|
"Glenn" <pilcheg@kc.rr.com> wrote in message
news:0ZKCg.13764$Nt2.10772@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> Chances are it is only 1/4", not solid enough to screw to.
good point...
| |
| Sandra S Beall 2006-08-10, 8:25 pm |
| I checked ... it is 1/4" cedar plywood... good quality, better than we get
today. The house is approx . 50 years old. I have been told that these
houses are well made compared to today's building. I noticed that it also
has black felt paper between rafters and plywood.
It looks like they wrapped everything...
Sandra Beall
| |
| Al Bundy 2006-08-11, 3:25 am |
| "Sandra S Beall" <bealls-2001@comcast.net> wrote in
news:BbCdnUOOEZR48UbZnZ2dnUVZ_tWdnZ2d@comcast.com:
> Can anyone here help??
>
> I need a link or information that will guide me in installing
> sheetrock on the ceiling of a room I have enclosed. The problem is
> that there is already plywood on the ceiling and I don't plan on
> removing it. This was a carport that I have enclosed. Anyway, I
> understand about placement of sheetrock, but since the plywood is
> currently installed in the way that the sheetrock is supposed to be
> installed, do I follow the plywood, or do I put in the sheetrock in
> what I would call is perpendicular to the way the ceiling members run?
>
> The reason I do not want to remove the plywood is that there is blown
> in insulation in the attic which includes the part over the carport
> (now a new room)
>
>
> Thanks so much
>
Ran into your situation enclosed carport and all. Was gonna put sheetrock
over it. Then figured what the heck, try it.
If nailed, go over with screws.
Ran belt sander over the plywood to smooth...50 or 80 grit.
Skimcoated ceiling with mud.
Ran a circ saw blade at all seams to give 1/8" expansion room.
Smoothed out mud and seam cuts by sanding.
Taped and mudded seams.
Smoothed out seams
Do a 2nd+ coat (whatever it takes) seam taper just like drywall.
Prime and painted with ceiling paint.
Looked like a regular ceiling to me! Sold house 6mos later so I don't
know any long term results.
A lot of the above steps you have to do with drywall anyway but at least
you don't have to buy & hang drywall...on a ceiling yet.
| |
|
| The only problem with mud and wood is that they often don't adhere to
each other and flakes of mud will drop off, or at minimum cracks can
appear. I'm not saying that what will happen in your case, but in my
experience this has happened. I recommend determining what thickness
the plywood is, and if it's 3/8" or better, it may hold screws pretty
well. Just make sure that you don't screw into pipes or electrical in
the process. As mentioned lapping over the seams is a good idea, as
the sheetrock can provided structural improvement too. In fact,
keeping the plywood in place and sheetrocking over it will provide
better structural strength, insulation, less moisture problems on the
inside of the sheetrock, and better safety from fire.
Al Bundy wrote:
> "Sandra S Beall" <bealls-2001@comcast.net> wrote in
> news:BbCdnUOOEZR48UbZnZ2dnUVZ_tWdnZ2d@comcast.com:
>
>
>
> Ran into your situation enclosed carport and all. Was gonna put sheetrock
> over it. Then figured what the heck, try it.
>
> If nailed, go over with screws.
> Ran belt sander over the plywood to smooth...50 or 80 grit.
> Skimcoated ceiling with mud.
> Ran a circ saw blade at all seams to give 1/8" expansion room.
> Smoothed out mud and seam cuts by sanding.
> Taped and mudded seams.
> Smoothed out seams
> Do a 2nd+ coat (whatever it takes) seam taper just like drywall.
> Prime and painted with ceiling paint.
>
> Looked like a regular ceiling to me! Sold house 6mos later so I don't
> know any long term results.
>
> A lot of the above steps you have to do with drywall anyway but at least
> you don't have to buy & hang drywall...on a ceiling yet.
| |
|
| 50 years ago, I had been a full time carpenter for 7 years. I
know the construction of yesterday and yes, it was better than now
days. We were craftsman back then. Now they stand something up
and where it stops moving, they nail it there. (Probably the one
guy on the crew that speaks English knows what a level is.)
As for the plywood, being cedar, teak or whatever, it could be
delaminating some from moisture even if it isn't apparent. Glues
were not as good back then which sounds contradictory to the first
paragraph but isn't.
"Sandra S Beall" <bealls-2001@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:hqmdnaPOFKfHWUbZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com
>I checked ... it is 1/4" cedar plywood... good quality,
> better than we get today. The house is approx . 50 years
> old. I have been told that these houses are well made
> compared to today's building. I noticed that it also has
> black felt paper between rafters and plywood.
> It looks like they wrapped everything...
>
> Sandra Beall
| |
| inspector.terry@gmail.com 2006-08-11, 8:25 pm |
|
Sandra S Beall wrote:
> Can anyone here help??
>
> I need a link or information that will guide me in installing sheetrock on
> the ceiling of a room I have enclosed. The problem is that there is already
> plywood on the ceiling and I don't plan on removing it. This was a carport
> that I have enclosed. Anyway, I understand about placement of sheetrock,
> but since the plywood is currently installed in the way that the sheetrock
> is supposed to be installed, do I follow the plywood, or do I put in the
> sheetrock in what I would call is perpendicular to the way the ceiling
> members run?
>
> The reason I do not want to remove the plywood is that there is blown in
> insulation in the attic which includes the part over the carport (now a new
> room)
>
>
> Thanks so much
>
> --
> Sandra S. Beall
> Huntsville Alabama
Sandra, Most applications of sheetrock, but not all, call for it to be
applied perpendicular to the framing members (trusses in your case).
You may check the Gypsum Association catalog for more information.
Terry North
Combination Building Inspector
| |
| Al Bundy 2006-08-13, 3:25 am |
| "Alan" <atufft@gmail.com> wrote in
news:1155271063.294328.10930@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:
> The only problem with mud and wood is that they often don't adhere to
> each other and flakes of mud will drop off, or at minimum cracks can
> appear. I'm not saying that what will happen in your case, but in my
> experience this has happened. I recommend determining what thickness
> the plywood is, and if it's 3/8" or better, it may hold screws pretty
> well. Just make sure that you don't screw into pipes or electrical in
> the process. As mentioned lapping over the seams is a good idea, as
> the sheetrock can provided structural improvement too. In fact,
> keeping the plywood in place and sheetrocking over it will provide
> better structural strength, insulation, less moisture problems on the
> inside of the sheetrock, and better safety from fire.
>
> Al Bundy wrote:
>
>
> ... mud and wood is that they often don't adhere to each other
Except when you don't want them to of course! :-)
> I'm not saying that what will happen in your case, but in my
> experience this has happened.
Like I said. Can't speak for long term results. Surly I won't argue that
putting the sheetrock over the plywood sounds like a better approach.
> I recommend determining what thickness
> the plywood is, and if it's 3/8" or better, it may hold screws pretty
> well. J
Hopefully can layout the sheetrock so that edges of existing plywood are
in the field of the sheetrock.
| |
| Al Bundy 2006-08-13, 3:25 am |
| "Glenn" <pilcheg@kc.rr.com> wrote in news:0H2Dg.457$zg.196@tornado.rdc-
kc.rr.com:
> 50 years ago, I had been a full time carpenter for 7 years. I
> know the construction of yesterday and yes, it was better than now
> days. We were craftsman back then. Now they stand something up
> and where it stops moving, they nail it there. (Probably the one
> guy on the crew that speaks English knows what a level is.)
>
> As for the plywood, being cedar, teak or whatever, it could be
> delaminating some from moisture even if it isn't apparent. Glues
> were not as good back then which sounds contradictory to the first
> paragraph but isn't.
>
> "Sandra S Beall" <bealls-2001@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:hqmdnaPOFKfHWUbZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com
>
Hmmm, between it being cedar, only 1/4" and your delaminating comment, it
sounds like skimcoating is not a good idea.
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